Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[DavesTractor]

Dave, do you know if anyone makes a scoop knife that can be fitted to a Caroni flail. Caroni only sells Y knive flails as you probably know having been a dealer for them in the past.

The scoop knives work on the Caroni 1900mm model. Quite a few places sell the knives. We get ours from Vrisimo and I think they sell for about $3 each, but keep in mind that they take the place of two of the "Y" blades. There are different size holes on the scoops, some are more elongated than others, that is the issue you have to watch.

 

[Brahmus]

I also emailed Keith about the cheaper BETST Flail and he had this to say...

The flails come with Y shaped Grass Blade. The Brush blade option is a scoop type, each Brush replace 2 Y.

Now he calls it a brush blade. But I'd think it would do a much better job on the lawn than the Y blade. And Iron Horse already said they do a good job on brush. So is this the ticket, a scoop blade on either the BETST or the Caroni?

 

[IslandTractor]

I also emailed Keith about the cheaper BETST Flail and he had this to say...

The flails come with Y shaped Grass Blade. The Brush blade option is a scoop type, each Brush replace 2 Y.

Now he calls it a brush blade. But I'd think it would do a much better job on the lawn than the Y blade. And Iron Horse already said they do a good job on brush. So is this the ticket, a scoop blade on either the BETST or the Caroni?

There is a lot of confusion about which blades are best for brush (my own confusion added to the pot). As I understand it the Y blades are actually preferred for brush. As IronHorse has argued, the hammer type do very well with lawns. Now that Dave has identified a scoop/hammer type replacement blade for the TM1900, I'd say just get that mower, try it out and if you don't like the cut with the Y blades then buy 28 of the P blades and switch them out. (Note: per Ironhorse's correction the wide blades Dave was talking about are not P hammers but "scoop knives" or "folded cup knives")

 

[Brahmus]

Now that Dave has identified a scoop/hammer type replacement blade for the TM1900, I'd say just get that mower, try it out and if you don't like the cut with the Y blades then buy 28 of the P blades and switch them out.

That's what I'm thinking!! Thanks for all the help!

 

[Eagleview]

I just need to clarify that the cast Manganese hammers like the Seppi ones are the 'P' hammers . If you follow the link i posted earlier you will find the "Folded Cup Knives" very cheap . They also list the adaptors and shackles needed for different fitments . The GE709-D was $2.39 and the GE709-P was around $1.2?

 

[Brahmus]

I just need to clarify that the cast Manganese hammers like the Seppi ones are the 'P' hammers . If you follow the link i posted earlier you will find the "Folded Cup Knives" very cheap . They also list the adaptors and shackles needed for different fitments . The GE709-D was $2.39 and the GE709-P was around $1.2?

Both provide the same finish correct? I'm assuming the "P" hammers are more durable for commercial type use where as the others would work for us homeowners?

 

[Brahmus]

Keith with BETST provided these images of the Hammer style blades at a price of $188 for the "kit".

 

[Eagleview]

Both provide the same finish correct? I'm assuming the "P" hammers are more durable for commercial type use where as the others would work for us homeowners?

Yes that would be correct . I may even try a set on my big flail for light work . The beauty of this type is that they eliminate the gap that the 'Y' blades have and would also create more suction as well as being an easy replacement option .

 

[davitk]

Well, I decided it was time to sharpen my knives since the mower was struggling, and the reed canary grass really needed to be cut. To my surprise the blades were not so much dull as mangled, maybe 1 in six seemed to be hitting each other or their mounting brackets . Any thoughts as to why?: poor design, improperly lubricated, pushing too hard in the tall stuff, not running at high enough PTO speed (often run at 500 vs recommended 540 rpm), using as tiller (don't ask ).

I am half way through sharpening after (only) two hours. At this rate it might be faster to just replace.

 

[Eagleview]

Most of the above . Blades need the centrifigal force to keep them off the drum so correct PTO speed is needed (use 1000rpm setting at lower engine revs if you have it for light mowing) . Poor design , blade mounts should not be used as blade stops . Use as a tiller , no no . Why not try a set of the folded cup knives , i think you would find they would hit the drum squarely with their backs and not be damaged .