Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

Hello Waratah,

Depending on your rotor diameter you could have four or six rows of grass slicers Y blade sets and hangers using a larger diameter drum to make the mowing less taxing on the drive system assuming you wil be using a chain drive for it

The three inch grass slicers would work well giving you with a 12 inch rotor of plate steel/spiral welded pipe and then welded to steel discs.

The spiral welded pipe is very strong in its construction

The lacing would be 4 or 6 rows of 20 pairs of Y blades hanger weldments and knive hangers for the 5 foot width and one blade at the opposit ends of each row to take up the last bit of drum width.

 

[Waratah15]

Hi Rip, good suggestion but not sure I can deal with the cheap Chinese gear, just spent an hour today in the shed trying to rebuild my bench mounted metal shears, they kinda work but the pivot clearances are all huge and the welded in brackets are crooked etc etc. Certainly better than it was but that sloppiness is just depressing when I know I can make it better. Maybe I'm being overly pessimistic, Ive got a Chinese 200 amp TIG welder that has been fantastic. Never actually seen any of the Hanmey stuff in the flesh though, just got that feeling!

GinNB I agree about the cutter width being wider than the tracks, I'm sure Id regret making it narrower for all time! Also point taken about the motor, I'll do some more research, really need to optimize the motor for sure, would be crazy to make a dog of a machine for a few hundred bucks. My machine is pretty powerful I'm sure if I get the specifications right it will be able to do some good work.

Thanks for all the information Leonz, still trying to work out the real difference between the knife varieties, seems from the Caroni discussion that the shaft with fewer of the chain mounted cutters was the one designed for rougher cutting rather than fine mowing. I know Iron Horse was a huge fan of the P heavy cutters but I suspect he had way more power than I have to drive them.

I'll use cold drawn seamless tube for the main rotor shaft 61/2" OD and 3/8 wall.
Certainly wasn't planning on chain drive, will either be direct drive or belt drive, probably belt but thinking I may get more power eliminating the losses from the belts system - probably end up with belts though.

Really appreciate all the input guys, thanks.

 

[ArtMech]

I would greatly appreciate if someone, who is familiar with a flail mower shown in the pics, could drop some advices. Is that kind of used and according to a trader in good condition (just repainted) machine worth for $2600? Design convenience, effectiveness, reliability...? I have no experience with the flail mowers at all. It would be attached to the M9000 and used for bush and high grass cutting. Max power required 80 hp, width 8' (2.45 m). The trader will add missing hammers. I'm guessing its type should be KG-245HD.
Thanks in advance.

 

[leonz]

I would greatly appreciate if someone, who is familiar with a flail mower shown in the pics, could drop some advices. Is that kind of used and according to a trader in good condition (just repainted) machine worth for $2600? Design convenience, effectiveness, reliability...? I have no experience with the flail mowers at all. It would be attached to the M9000 and used for bush and high grass cutting. Max power required 80 hp, width 8' (2.45 m). The trader will add missing hammers. I'm guessing its type should be KG-245HD.
Thanks in advance.

About your flailmower;

Number one is that it is a Krone product which is very good.

Number two is that it is a unit with the hardened duck bill hammer knives and a very large flailmower rotor which is very good.

Number three is that you can by parts for it as it is Krone Product.


Number 4 is that you have a manually adjustable rear hitch which allows you to offset the mower to mow closer to walls and fences.


Number five is that you can obtain spare parts from an authorised Krone dealer.


You have mower that will last longer than the tractor you wil lmount it on
and this is also very good.



You will be able to mow heavy brush and good grass with the same mower.

Just ask the dealer to hook it up to a tractor and grease the bearings before you run it for an hour mowing to be sure the bearings are still in good shape.

If the bearings are poor it is not difficult to change them anyway,

Have fun mowing You will be very impressed with the mowing quality of the Krone product.

Just be very ure to have the proper length drive shaft for it as a PTO shaft too long will damage the mower and the tractor(once the mower is on the ground itis at its lowest point and the PTO shaft still must be able to slide in and out with some distance when the mower is on the ground.

 

[GinNB]

I've never been around a Krone but I'd carefully inspect any mower of that type that had missing hammers. Running one with even one missing hammer will shake the bejeebers out of the mower. Hard on cuttershaft bearings and the holes in the sideplates where the bearings bolt on. It's a major job to redo the sideplate mounts- BTDT. Other parts like around the 3pt frame can loosen and crack as well. Been there done that with one of ours when the operator didn't think it worth going back to the shop for parts.

 

[ArtMech]

Thank You all so much for excellent advices!

Concerning the drive shaft, what a distance should I leave to allow it to slide in and out? Inch or two? Taking into account offseting implement sideways.

I have already asked the trader about possible disbalance of a main shaft. They said it's OK, no disbalance available. But thanks, I'll take care about the sideplates. It's not possible to make any inspection, because the machine is in the other country (Germany). So there's nothing to do except to trust, but still considering some risk.
On the other hand if the bearings could be easily changed or cracks fixed I would do it myself.
But the reason, why a couple of hammers are missing, is unknown. It's important, I'll have to ask. Yes, it could be impossible to work without even one hammer.

 

[leonz]

About the Power Take Off shaft,

The size and length you need wil be totally dependent upon the tractor or tractors you will be mounting it on that is the limiting factor.

The type of three point hitch is also a factor as well as you needot be sure the lower links are fully extended also.


We have several how to videos here on TBN shwing how to properly size your PTO shaft which are also on Youtube.

The important thing is to remember to have enough overlap for the male and female shaft parts BUT not so much that it damages the mower or tractor when the mower is lowered to the ground. This is all explained in the video here or on Youtube.

 

[ArtMech]

The important thing is to remember to have enough overlap for the male and female shaft parts BUT not so much that it damages the mower or tractor when the mower is lowered to the ground. This is all explained in the video here or on Youtube.

I've already found the YouTube video with that explanation. Thank You.

 

[paddy111]

I'm jumping in on an old post. I have to purchase a mower for my L4240 in the next month or so. I like the idea of a flail mover. The comments here are very interesting. I can see that these flail mowers have their commercial uses but what about in a residential setting. I have 2.5 acres to mow and would like to know if you feel it will give me a decently finished lawn, allow me to get close to trees& house. I have a large residence/property - no farm, thoughts?

 

[beppington]

I'm jumping in on an old post. I have to purchase a mower for my L4240 in the next month or so. I like the idea of a flail mover. The comments here are very interesting. I can see that these flail mowers have their commercial uses but what about in a residential setting. I have 2.5 acres to mow and would like to know if you feel it will give me a decently finished lawn, allow me to get close to trees& house. I have a large residence/property - no farm, thoughts?

Actually they seem to be quite a bit more favored for residential than commercial. And yes it should do exactly what you describe :thumbsup: A 6' Caroni TM1900 would work perfectly on your L4240, & you should be able to mow your 2.5 acres pretty quickly.

 

[tbutman]

I have 2 7 footers. both JD 25A's They work very well for making a field look like a lawn or a lawn look like well groomed lawn, Lawn you can mow at very low rps's which makes the job quiet and enjoyable. Just a low hummm.

 

[IslandTractor]

Actually they seem to be quite a bit more favored for residential than commercial. And yes it should do exactly what you describe :thumbsup: A 6' Caroni TM1900 would work perfectly on your L4240, & you should be able to mow your 2.5 acres pretty quickly.

No doubt a TM1900 would cut 2.5 acres quickly but remember it is not a finish cutter. The B style cutters give a good but not true finish cut. Perfect for fields and I am happy with the cut around the house but someone looking for a manicured lawn look would be disappointed. I think it is the F style blades and rotor that are designed for true finish mowing.

 

[beppington]

No doubt a TM1900 would cut 2.5 acres quickly but remember it is not a finish cutter. The B style cutters give a good but not true finish cut. Perfect for fields and I am happy with the cut around the house but someone looking for a manicured lawn look would be disappointed. I think it is the F style blades and rotor that are designed for true finish mowing.

He said "decently finished lawn" not manicured. Maybe we need more info or better defined terms. To me "decently" means good but maybe not great. Maybe a 7 or 8 on a 1 to 10 scale. Now we're gettin' to the nitty gritty :thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

He said "decently finished lawn" not manicured. Maybe we need more info or better defined terms. To me "decently" means good but maybe not great. Maybe a 7 or 8 on a 1 to 10 scale. Now we're gettin' to the nitty gritty :thumbsup:

I agree but sometimes people think of yard service type cuts whenever talking about lawns. For my own purpose any means of keeping the grass from turning into a hayfield is just fine.

 

[J_J]

Is there any reason that the fine cut blade on the left will not provide a good finish cut.

Does anyone have any pictures for comparison, using the best blades on each cutter.

 

[IslandTractor]

Is there any reason that the fine cut blade on the left will not provide a good finish cut.

Does anyone have any pictures for comparison, using the best blades on each cutter.

It would work. However there are half as many blade attachment points on the B rotor as on the F rotor so you could not mount as many knives.

 

[Durhamfarms]

Replacing V-Belts on a Ford 907 Flail Mower

The Ford 907 Flail Mower was manufactured between the years of 1965 and 1972. Mowers which were manufactured from 1970 forward may be identified by their spring-type tensioners (similar to an automotive fan belt tensioner) and their smaller 6-inch diameter Idler pulleys. Mowers manufactured prior to 1970 were equipped with a larger 8-inch diameter Idler pulley and a solid (non-spring) tension adjusting bracket.

Obtaining the correct V-belt for a 907 Mower can be difficult (particularly for the pre-1970 units) because Ford-New Holland changed the belt's part number several times; but failed to account for the larger 8-inch Idler pulleys on the pre-1970 units. So, here is what Ford 907 Mower Owners need to know, to get the correct V-belt and to replace it correctly:

1) If your mower has the solid idler adjusting bracket (no tension spring), the mower was manufactured before 1970 and should have the large 8-inch Idler pulley.

2) Ford-New Holland shows the part number of the V-belt for ALL 907 mowers as Part Number 9828694, and dealers will tell you this number has been changed to #86516668. However, this V-belt (#9828694 / #9828694) will not fit properly on the pre-1970 mowers.

3) Fortunately, all 907 mowers use a standard C-profile V-belt. This means that you can buy the belt from any local NAPA store. Pre-1970 mowers use a C-53 belt; while 1970 and later mowers use a C-52 belt. These belt numbers are generic and are used by all V-belt manufacturers, including Gates, Dayco and others.

4) If you purchase the belts from an industrial supply house, have them order the Kevlar type... they cost more... but are far stronger, and will last much longer.

5) To replace the belt, begin by removing the side cover. Then, loosen the two inner and outer 15/16" nuts, which secure the threaded J-bolt in the stop. Loosen the 9/16" nut located in the center of the Idler adjusting bracket. Turning the inner 15/16 nut against the stop will then force the idler adjusting bracket forward (and thus, move the Idler pulley forward) sliding the bolt on the bracket in the elongated slot in the mower housing. Replace the belt, and tighten the outer 15/16" nut until the belt is taught; continue tightening until the center of the belt deflects one-quarter inch (1/4") when 10 pounds of force is applied to the outside center of the belt. Tighten the inner 15/16" nut against the stop, and re-tighten the 9/16" nut on the Idler adjusting bracket. Finally, replace the cover and... start mowing!

SHARE THE KNOWLEDGE.

 

[RFB]

I ordered (in January) a Caroni 6' flail with F style blades from AS. It is a special order, and am hoping to receive it in mid to late May. I will be mowing mostly lawn, field grasses and very light brush. It does have twice the number of flails, 112 IIRC.

 

[IslandTractor]

I ordered (in January) a Caroni 6' flail with F style blades from AS. It is a special order, and am hoping to receive it in mid to late May. I will be mowing mostly lawn, field grasses and very light brush. It does have twice the number of flails, 112 IIRC.

We'll expect a review!!! Hope it arrives on time.

 

[leonz]

I love it when a plan comes together,


I can, and will tell you from my personal experience
you will not be dissapointed when you recieve your new
flail mower with the F rotor.


As long as you travel slowly and ore raise the flailmower
while mowing heavy brush or back over it while the
Power Take Off is engaged and operating at 540 R.P.M.,
and then drive forward as Island Tractor and I do with
heavy bushy growth you will not be dissapointed.

You can obtain the V belts locally as all V belts, like bearings
are metric thank the good lord and Swedish Engineering.

I think you will have the B53 V-belts on this beast
as they are the same size as the ones on
Island Tractors Caroni Flail Mower and my
Mathews Lawn Genie -my aplogies if I am mistaken
in advance as its been a while.

Be sure to have a spare pair of Kevlar belts for it,
as they are stronger than the standard corded V belts.

Keep the spares in a closed black garbage bag to
prevent premature damage to the spares from the
naturally occuring ozone which destroys rubber.

If you can send me your e-mail I can send you a
Caroni Parts manual as it is too large to upload
to the forum


The nice thing about a flail mower or any flailmower
for that matter is it has a built in lawn striping attachment
at no extra charge which you have to pay for with a
rotary mower.


Please let us know when it arrives so I can welcome
you as life member of the Flail Mower Nation.