Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,301  
Can someone please remind me (I actually read the whole thread awhile back) the downsides to a flail mower? Just curious.

They have a lot more moving parts and require a lot more maintenance than rotary mowers. Rotary mowers are more effective on really tall stuff.

I have one, I use it a lot, but my rough mower still gets a lot of use.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,302  
How's the balance? Untested means you haven't mowed with it or haven't powered it up to check for vibration?

Balance should be fine, as long as all clevises are replaced. I would not mix and match SAE and metric - the SAE is definitely heavier.

However, untested means just that - I've done nothing other tweak a single clevis to fit, ensuring it swings without interference. No power up, no mowing. I wasn't willing to risk ordering 28 clevises until I verified I could modify one to fit, so I picked up the lone clevis along with my blade order from Flailmaster. Once I go through my remaining 4 spare metric clevises from Agri Supply, I'll order up enough to do the complete swap and report back. However, that might not happen for several months...so I thought I'd share what I'd found just in case anyone else wishes to give it a go before then.

How easy was it to bend the new clevis enough to keep it from binding (and therefore sticking in place) for its full range of motion?

Piece o' cake. Put the head of a M10x80mm bolt in a vice, toss on the clevis and some strategically placed washers, attach a nut to the opposite side of the clevis and go at it with a ratchet/socket. Bends without much effort at all.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,303  
They have a lot more moving parts and require a lot more maintenance than rotary mowers. Rotary mowers are more effective on really tall stuff.

I have one, I use it a lot, but my rough mower still gets a lot of use.


Thanks, it's nice to hear from users.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,304  
Can someone please remind me (I actually read the whole thread awhile back) the downsides to a flail mower? Just curious.

As Leonz noted the purchase price of USA made flails is about double what a very good rotary mower costs. Italian imports like Caroni cost about the same as a similar width Woods mower.

The other downside is the need for more attention to maintenance. Rotary mowers require next to none so the flail seems a bit fussy with required greasing and blade checks but once a routine is established, it is easy enough.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,305  
The issue of balance for your repair is first and foremost what is needed to be verified.

You will not be able to leave the single replacement alone with the opposing stock clevises.

The opposing two or three clevises need to be changed to maintain the proper orbit of the
hangers and knives.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,306  
The issue of balance for your repair is first and foremost what is needed to be verified.

You will not be able to leave the single replacement alone with the opposing stock clevises.

The opposing two or three clevises need to be changed to maintain the proper orbit of the
hangers and knives.

Agree Looking back at my old post on the SAE clevis, it looks like I weighed the one from Flailmaster as one ounce heavier than the stock metric clevis. It would therefore be necessary to use three at a time positioned evenly at 0, 120, and 240 degree positions. Easy enough to do. Using just one would be imbalanced but no worse than running the mower with a missing blade or two which I have done many times.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,307  
I am looking at buying a 1650 Value Leader flail for my Kioti ds3510 to clear tracks on my 280acres of Eucalypt (iron bark) forest. Would I be better off getting the hammers for the first time to clear the undergrowth and can I change to the Y type later on the same shaft. Also, has any one had any trouble with this equipment? Are the hammers the clevis type or are they bolted directly to the shaft. I have a 5ft slasher (rotary) but can only carry one piece of equip to the block at a time (thieves) so would like to make the flail work for clearing and maintenance of the tracks.
Thanks, Geoff:)
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,308  
I am looking at buying a 1650 Value Leader flail for my Kioti ds3510 to clear tracks on my 280acres of Eucalypt (iron bark) forest. Would I be better off getting the hammers for the first time to clear the undergrowth and can I change to the Y type later on the same shaft. Also, has any one had any trouble with this equipment? Are the hammers the clevis type or are they bolted directly to the shaft. I have a 5ft slasher (rotary) but can only carry one piece of equip to the block at a time (thieves) so would like to make the flail work for clearing and maintenance of the tracks.
Thanks, Geoff:)
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,309  
I have the 68" Value Leader flail and love it. 1st year I ran it with the hammers, bordering perhaps on abuse as I ran it close to the ground and would actually engage in areas of pig rooting. I also cut some tall, thick growth that might include ferns and guava trees. I busted a fair number of hammers and severely wore others. When I could no longer keep it in balance I changed out to all Y blades. Yes they bolt directly to the shaft. This year I had to replace the roller bearings. They are sealed and no way to grease. One one was a problem, but I replaced both. Highly recommend that you speak with Keith at Betst, very helpful. Depending how rough your area, you might want to order half a dozen extra hammers/blades - you will break some.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,310  
If it were me and I had a lot of brush to clear and only one mower to cut my paths, mulch the branches/stumps, and maintain it afterwards then I'd start with hammers for the heavy cutting and switch to Y blades (maybe Y blades with an axe) afterwards.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,311  
Two different questions......anyone used a flail/mulcher on a commercial-type front-mount mower such as Kubota F-2880, JD 1145, Iseki SF series, NH G6000 series??

Anyone used a flail head on a PowerTrac 1845 or similar??

Yes, I have seen the 1460 with flail on YouTube, so I know it does work......just trying to get more actual user feedback, satisfaction, etc.

Rip
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,312  
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,313  
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,314  
Welcome to "Flail Nation"... because once you go FLAIL... you never go back. First, decide what you want the area to be mowed to look like when you are done (a lawn or a field); because most flail mowers take more than one type of cutter. Use an upside down "T" for a smooth lawn-like look or an upside down "Y" for a coarser cut (the "Y" blades cut on both sides; so can be turned around, allowing you to put off the sharpening job 'til winter). One more thing... for a 4-5 acre field, I would suggest that you buy a good used Ford 907 Flail Mower; 6-7 feet in width (7 foot has the offset design) rather than buying a new mower. Prices for a 907 should range from $500 for one in serviceable condition to $1,200 for one in mint condition.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,315  
Two different questions......anyone used a flail/mulcher on a commercial-type front-mount mower such as Kubota F-2880, JD 1145, Iseki SF series, NH G6000 series??

Anyone used a flail head on a PowerTrac 1845 or similar??

Yes, I have seen the 1460 with flail on YouTube, so I know it does work......just trying to get more actual user feedback, satisfaction, etc.

Rip


Interesting. Not sure I would like to haul a dumpster behind me but I imagine there are situations where that works well. I love the dumping gymnastics.

Welcome to "Flail Nation"... because once you go FLAIL... you never go back. First, decide what you want the area to be mowed to look like when you are done (a lawn or a field); because most flail mowers take more than one type of cutter. Use an upside down "T" for a smooth lawn-like look or an upside down "Y" for a coarser cut (the "Y" blades cut on both sides; so can be turned around, allowing you to put off the sharpening job 'til winter). One more thing... for a 4-5 acre field, I would suggest that you buy a good used Ford 907 Flail Mower; 6-7 feet in width (7 foot has the offset design) rather than buying a new mower. Prices for a 907 should range from $500 for one in serviceable condition to $1,200 for one in mint condition.







Hello Rip,


I owned a 36 inch Mathews lawn genie pick up mower, and now own a 48 inch lawn genie.
(both are motorised)

I can attest to thier ability to for the mowing job.
The rear roller is also your lawn striper at no extra charge.

A flail mower will also do less damage to an established lawn as
it does not tear the grass blades like a rotary mower does.



I know/knew of at least 2 new unused 5 footers with
collection baskets that were for sale here in New York State.

They both are three point hitch mounted and have a hydraulic lift
for dumping the collection basket.

Sadly they are no longer made but the parts are easily found locally.
I purchased new wheels and bearings from Palmetto specialty tire in the Carolinas.

As Durhamfarms has said decide what kind of lawn you want first and then go from there.
There are many good used flail mowers available.

As far as front mounts go the Caroni's can be set up for tractor front mount but it must be
done at the factory in Italy-unless you have a three point hitch unit mounted on
the front of the tractor then a basic flail mower can be mounted on the front-strictly
depending on the implements weight and the lifts weight rating.

As the Kubota F2880 is a 2 wheeler you will have to purchase a Trimax brand front
mounted flail mower for it unless they(kubota) have begun to offer one for the F2880.


You will have better luck with a rear mounted unit from one of the several manufacturers of them.

Many times brand new flailmowers are offered for sale on tractor house/auction time and many
other auction sites as well.

If we can be of any further help all you need to do is ask us.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,316  
Sorry for not replying sooner.... first of all, I gave up on looking to put a flail on my PowerTrac (various reasons).....but was thinking more on a flail head for a Kubota F-Series, but could not find used and way too expensive new. In any case I was not looking for a grass collection system for anything......guess there was some confusion. I am now running a 2009 Kubota F-2880 with heavy-duty 60" 3-blade rotary as I got the whole kit reasonable......works fine as I was able to chew through a lot of thick tall (like 3 to 4 ft) overgrown stuff, but back to reasonable pasture/rough lawn now, so no big deal......will still keep eyes open for reasonable used flail head.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,317  
Sorry for not replying sooner.... first of all, I gave up on looking to put a flail on my PowerTrac (various reasons).....but was thinking more on a flail head for a Kubota F-Series, but could not find used and way too expensive new. In any case I was not looking for a grass collection system for anything......guess there was some confusion. I am running a 2009 Kubota F-2880 with heavy-duty 60" 3-blade rotary as I got the whole kit reasonable......works fine as I was able to chew through a lot of thick tall (like 3 to 4 ft) overgrown stuff, but back to reasonable pasture/rough lawn now, so no big deal......will still keep eyes open for reasonable used flail head.



Greetings,

I saw your response with regard to my post.

Perhaps the better option is to simply hire
it done and mow several times no matter the moisture
content to keep it down until you have a rough turf/pasture
and be done with it.


I do know that Husquavarna has a flailmower for thier
riding mowers that is a front mount.

Unfortunately you are limited to the Trimax or
one of the Japanese made flail mowers for your
F-2880.

You will not be able to find them used unless
you purchase a power unit AND the mower
from a golf course auction site or a municipal
auction if you look nation wide.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,318  
Leonz, I tried unsuccessfully to hire the tall overgrown stuff cut down, but once I did get the F-2880 I ended up doing it myself.....slowly. but did get it done.......so long as I keep up with it I'll be fine. It was overgrown grass....like a hay field, not heavy weeds or saplings. I did put on a set of 3" wheel spacers and fluid-filled the main tires to maximize the stability & traction from what was already pretty good. Still want to add about 100lbs of rear counterweight.

If I had a flail I could help out a few neighbors push out their lawns and do the road-side more often then the council does it twice a year. but as it is, I can live without a flail until and unless a suitable one comes along.

There are several Italian flails made to fit these F-Series machines.....just quite $$$ at least in OZ. Cheers, Rip
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,319  
We have finally joined Flail Nation, thanks to all of the input on this board!
The mower is a Muratori MT22-170. I have a PDF of the parts guide if anyone needs one.
The knives are quite heavy, at 9/32 or 8mm thick.

IMG_20130724_105348.jpg
Muratori MT22-170 flail knife 1.jpg
Muratori MT22-170 flail knife 2.jpg
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,320  
We have finally joined Flail Nation, thanks to all of the input on this board!
The mower is a Muratori MT22-170. I have a PDF of the parts guide if anyone needs one.
The knives are quite heavy, at 9/32 or 8mm thick.

View attachment 329255
View attachment 329256
View attachment 329257



Greetings and Salutations Kananaskis,


I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nation.



___________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back :thumbsup::drool::cool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::drool::cool:
 
 

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