Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[DavesTractor]

Japanese vs Chinese, big difference still in my opinion.

 

[sodamo]

Japanese vs Chinese, big difference still in my opinion.

Many of us here, grew up when Made in Japan was held in same degree many hold Made in China.

Fortunately, both have improved, I have two Toyotas sitting in my drive, iphones, ipad, etc. Pretty much well respected quality benchmarks in their industries.

I also have a Made in China flail and only failure was a rusted out roller bearing - easily replaced. Otherwise, no problems, was far less than I read on here about the much beloved, Italian "C". No doubt in my mind, that I have used (abused) my Value Leader flail as much as anyone here.

My point is unless one has recent personal experience with an item, all else is just an opinion - and of course, we all have one of those.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I've read this thread from front to back...wow, that's a weeks worth of spare time and some tired eyes, not to mention it cost me a bit over $2100 to boot. Yeah, I ordered a Caroni TM1900 last week and it should arrive here sometime this week (last check showed it in Ohio). Actually this thread probably saved me $1900, cuz I was about to pull the trigger on a Land Pride RCD1884 rotory that was $4100 including sales tax. Needed/wanted something a bit larger than my 23 year old 60" Razorback...still a great mower and I think I'll keep it around a bit longer. I'd like to thank all the folks here, with years of experience running flails, for sharing your wisdom with us newbees. Also appreciate those who shared their experience purchasing various brands of new mowers.....my decision was made easier because of this thread. Thanks again to all..Bob

 

[sweettractors]

I will have a 7 ft Mott flail with built in offset ready to sell later this week. Ken Sweet

 

[Rip]

Walter63, Did not see your post until now, but thanks for the confirmation of an out-front-flail. I am sure it would be best, but unless I can find a good used one nearby (Tasmania or at least VIC) I will try to make-do with the three-blade 60" rotary I have now. I priced a couple new ones that are sold locally and they were in the $8 - 9K range including tax & shipping, so no-go at this time.

We are away right now and a local guy is trying to keep the grass mowed (with our Kubota) in between his regular job and the frequent rains so it may have gotten pretty high by now.....we'll see. Another guy I could hire has his own JD-748 but even he would have to wait until the grass was quite dried out as that deck clogs pretty easy on tall-damp grass.

Cheers, Rip

 

[fastback88]

Sweettractors PM sent

 

[psj12]

I have the Caroni 1900 and my two complaints on it are the belts failing regularly and the rear roller is too light of metal and dents easily.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have the Caroni 1900 and my two complaints on it are the belts failing regularly and the rear roller is too light of metal and dents easily.

My original belts failed at the beginning of season three. My second set (Gates) is fine after three years and so far half of a fourth.

Rear roller does dent but keeps on rolling so is just a cosmetic issue for me.

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I could use a bit of advice from you Caroni owners out there. Took delivery of my TM1900 last week...have mowed about 12 hours with it (just grass, hay field regrowth, no brush) and find that the roller is not always turning due to scrapper bar. In fact, there is one strip about 5/8" wide, running the full length of the roller that looks like chrome from dragging so much.

Anyone else run into this problem?

Have you Caroni owners modified your scrapper bar so it doesn't ride directly on the roller? If so, what did you do.

Oh, before someone asks, I greased bearings before use, and again after 5 hours. If scrapper is lifted up, roller spins like a top.

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I could use a bit of advice from you Caroni owners out there. Took delivery of my TM1900 last week...have mowed about 12 hours with it (just grass, hay field regrowth, no brush) and find that the roller is not always turning due to scrapper bar. In fact, there is one strip about 5/8" wide, running the full length of the roller that looks like chrome from dragging so much.

Anyone else run into this problem?

Have you Caroni owners modified your scrapper bar so it doesn't ride directly on the roller? If so, what did you do.

Oh, before someone asks, I greased bearings before use, and again after 5 hours. If scrapper is lifted up, roller spins like a top.

 

[leonz]

Hello and good morning Hill Billy Bob,

I will assume you also greased the rear roller bearings.

You can either use the product called Mow Deck or
Fluid Film to coat the rear roller to reduce the sticking.

The scraper is just that, a scraper to keep the rear roller
clean of fine turf clippings.


There are also large spray cans of cooking spray that can be used
as well as WD-40 BUT the no stick cooking spray and Fluid Film
will not damage the lawn from contact.


if you have it or can obtain Fluid Film from the local JD dealer
you can coat the roller several times before mowing with a
paint brush full of fluid film which also can be used inside
the mower shroud.


Mowing when it is hotter is an option as there is a bit less moisture
But if worse comes to worse the scraper can be removed.

Hope this helps.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have never needed to use the sort of surface lubrication that leonz mentioned. If the scraper is hitting at just one point, is it slightly bent? Also, the position of the roller can be adjusted up and down which may not fix the rubbing but might allow some change in position that helps. My scraper doesn't make contact at all if I recall correctly.

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

Hello all, I did a little closer inspection of my roller and scraper yesterday, and found my problem to be caused by someone not bothering to clean up after welding the end caps to the roller tube. Scraper actually rides on welds, not on roller.

Spent some time with a file in hand, (welds at both ends of roller needed work) and now binding is gone, roller rolls.

Think maybe my mower was a Friday afternoon production, before I used it, I drained 32oz. of oil from gear box.... 16oz. of new oil put level at 1/8" below full mark.

All in all, I like the mower and qualily of the cut, my CK30 doesn't seem to know it's back there, and it is quieter than a rotory cutter....Bob

 

[IslandTractor]

Hello all, I did a little closer inspection of my roller and scraper yesterday, and found my problem to be caused by someone not bothering to clean up after welding the end caps to the roller tube. Scraper actually rides on welds, not on roller.

Spent some time with a file in hand, (welds at both ends of roller needed work) and now binding is gone, roller rolls.

Think maybe my mower was a Friday afternoon production, before I used it, I drained 32oz. of oil from gear box.... 16oz. of new oil put level at 1/8" below full mark.

All in all, I like the mower and qualily of the cut, my CK30 doesn't seem to know it's back there, and it is quieter than a rotory cutter....Bob

Glad you've got the teething problems sorted out. Quality has actually been pretty good with these Caroni TM1900 units and yours is the first I've heard about sloppy welds. Friday afternoon might be a good explanation.

The oil will bubble out and leave a mess covered with grass clippings. Happens to all of us. A Caroni gearbox "feature". You can fix it by adding an extension to the dip stick filler hole. Metric part. Search this thread for the specs and where to source. Grab a set of Gates belts too (again, search here for the correct size ???B23 or B43????). The first set seems to last only a year or so but after replacement most folks have had much longer life with the Gates belts.

Good luck and happy mowing.

 

[leonz]

Hello all, I did a little closer inspection of my roller and scraper yesterday, and found my problem to be caused by someone not bothering to clean up after welding the end caps to the roller tube. Scraper actually rides on welds, not on roller.

Spent some time with a file in hand, (welds at both ends of roller needed work) and now binding is gone, roller rolls.

Think maybe my mower was a Friday afternoon production, before I used it, I drained 32oz. of oil from gear box.... 16oz. of new oil put level at 1/8" below full mark.

All in all, I like the mower and qualily of the cut, my CK30 doesn't seem to know it's back there, and it is quieter than a rotory cutter....Bob

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Hello Bob,

I am glad the problem was a minor one in any case.

I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nation.

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Once you go flail you never go back!!!
Pronovost or not at all!!!

 

[JustBob]

Thanks to this thread, I purchased a flail mower. I am hoping you can help me with a couple of problems I am having.

This is what I have, a Mott 88 flail mower. When I purchased the mower it had tail wheels instead of a rear roller. I purchased the rear roller assembly, rear deflector, bearing for the drive pulley(extension housing), idler pulley, belts, belt guard, and idler spring. It had a new set of knives on it.







First problem is, it does not cut very well. It lays the grass over more than it cuts it, but does ok cutting other than grass. The blades are only .093 thick and 3 inches long, could they be the problem? I had planned on ordering some new ones at the end of summer anyway, I am just not sure which ones to get... is thicker or heavier better?

This thing is annoyingly noisy... I have seen videos and other flails in person, I believe it may be the cuttershaft bearings. It is almost unbearable with ear plugs, is that normal for these Mott's?



Thanks,
Bob

 

[whirly]

Can you give us a pic of the blades as they sit on the ground? The cutting problem is probably adjustable.

Also by "lays the grass over more than it cuts it" do you mean that the grass id just bent and not cut?

 

[JustBob]

Can you give us a pic of the blades as they sit on the ground? The cutting problem is probably adjustable.

Also by "lays the grass over more than it cuts it" do you mean that the grass id just bent and not cut?

The grass is cut, but only part of the total height. The blades during use are 2 1/2 inches from the ground, but it cuts the grass leaving it 4 to 6 tall. It cuts less and bends it over more in thick grass. The picture here is in the grass it just cut 2 days ago.

 

[whirly]

The blades look good and th4 height is good so the other two parameters are RPM & ground speed. RPM need to be at 540 and ground speed needs to be less than 3mph (brisk walk).... IMHO.

As for the noise it should be a loud hummmm ... about 80db, but that also depends on how far you are from the flail - mine is about 6ft from my ears. Anything noise other than the hum is a mechanical issue. AGAIN IMHO.

 

[whirly]

The blades look good and th4 height is good so the other two parameters are RPM & ground speed. RPM need to be at 540 and ground speed needs to be less than 3mph (brisk walk).... IMHO.

As for the noise it should be a loud hummmm ... about 80db, but that also depends on how far you are from the flail - mine is about 6ft from my ears. Anything noise other than the hum is a mechanical issue. AGAIN IMHO.