New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The heat isn't all that bad. I usualy take a break around 3pm for about two hours to miss the worse of it. You just sort of get used to it.
My Dad went to Dallas today to pick up the replacement block. $250 for a Ford 370 block seems reasonable.
Three guys at the machine shop said it looked good. The guy who does the actual boring didn't agree. They magnafuxed it and found a crack. He could actually see it with the naked eye, but nobody else could.
The place in Dallas said they'd drive out another block tomorrow and pay for the mangnafuxing.
I'm sort of in limbo on this until I get a new block.
I took apart a cylinder on my backhoe that's been leaking and it's out of stock. Gotta wait on that too. So now I'm building a pier in my small pond since the water is down 3 feet and I got some room to work with. I'll start a thread on that little project in a day or two. Guess I can clean the shop and finish getting all the parts ready for the engine.
Eddie
My Dad went to Dallas today to pick up the replacement block. $250 for a Ford 370 block seems reasonable.
Three guys at the machine shop said it looked good. The guy who does the actual boring didn't agree. They magnafuxed it and found a crack. He could actually see it with the naked eye, but nobody else could.
The place in Dallas said they'd drive out another block tomorrow and pay for the mangnafuxing.
I'm sort of in limbo on this until I get a new block.
I took apart a cylinder on my backhoe that's been leaking and it's out of stock. Gotta wait on that too. So now I'm building a pier in my small pond since the water is down 3 feet and I got some room to work with. I'll start a thread on that little project in a day or two. Guess I can clean the shop and finish getting all the parts ready for the engine.
Eddie
Eddie, I love your work and just wanted to say that your photograph of the flywheel surface is right pretty! If there is ever a TBN photo contest I think you'd be in.
Well, It looked like it was going to be ugly if I posted the link, but it was on 8-18, post #14.
That fresh motor's gonna feel good.
Dennis
Well, It looked like it was going to be ugly if I posted the link, but it was on 8-18, post #14.
That fresh motor's gonna feel good.
Dennis
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks Dennis, I'm not much of a mechanic, so the flywheel was something new for me. I'd never seen anything like that before, or even heard about it.
I took four pictures of it and one showed the cracks real clear. Sometimes those close up shots are the hardest to get. I sure like digital cameras!!!
The lastest is that I'm waiting on the new cam. It didn't show up last week, so maybe Mon or Tue. The parts are all clean and ready for assembly. I'm just taking out trees and moving dirt in the meantime.
Eddie
I took four pictures of it and one showed the cracks real clear. Sometimes those close up shots are the hardest to get. I sure like digital cameras!!!
The lastest is that I'm waiting on the new cam. It didn't show up last week, so maybe Mon or Tue. The parts are all clean and ready for assembly. I'm just taking out trees and moving dirt in the meantime.
Eddie
Rob,
There is an easy way to check the timing chain wear on the old V-8 engines. Remove the distributor cap so you can see the rotor, and then grab the front crankshaft pulley and rotate the engine in one direction until the rotor just starts to move. Then turn it in the other direction until the same thing happens. There shouldn't be much play if the chain is good, but with 130k you will likely get quite a bit of rotation before the cam shaft starts to turn. In actuality, the engine turns quite easily until the cam shaft starts turning, so you can feel the resistance as the chain gets tight because a lot of the rotating resistance is in turning the cam shaft.
Wait too long, and the chain can jump a tooth and leave you stranded as it won't run when that happens.
There is an easy way to check the timing chain wear on the old V-8 engines. Remove the distributor cap so you can see the rotor, and then grab the front crankshaft pulley and rotate the engine in one direction until the rotor just starts to move. Then turn it in the other direction until the same thing happens. There shouldn't be much play if the chain is good, but with 130k you will likely get quite a bit of rotation before the cam shaft starts to turn. In actuality, the engine turns quite easily until the cam shaft starts turning, so you can feel the resistance as the chain gets tight because a lot of the rotating resistance is in turning the cam shaft.
Wait too long, and the chain can jump a tooth and leave you stranded as it won't run when that happens.
Renze
Elite Member
Does it have a timing chain, or a ribbed belt ?
Chains are usually liftime maintenance free, maybe just a span roller needs some attention.
Belts on automobiles we usually change every 50 to 75.000 km
Visual inspection can be enough, just dont wait and replace it when it starts to ravel out.
Chains are usually liftime maintenance free, maybe just a span roller needs some attention.
Belts on automobiles we usually change every 50 to 75.000 km
Visual inspection can be enough, just dont wait and replace it when it starts to ravel out.
Renze, chains on the old V-block Detroit products definitely aren't lifetime maintanence free! They rarely last much beyond 100k miles, if that long. Chains on the newer overhead cam engines are a different story. They are engineered differently, and they last much longer.
Timing belts are primarily only used on modern small displacement overhead cam engines, and started with the Japanese cars and trucks. And visual inspection of timing belts is NOT a good indicator, as they are known to occasionally strip the teeth right off of the belts, even when the rest of the belt looks good, if the recommended mileages for changes are exceeded.
I don't know about American products, but I know that most Honda and Nissan products will likely cause serious internal damages if the timing belt strips or breaks, while most Toyota products are non-interference and a broken belt won't cause any engine damage.
Timing belts are primarily only used on modern small displacement overhead cam engines, and started with the Japanese cars and trucks. And visual inspection of timing belts is NOT a good indicator, as they are known to occasionally strip the teeth right off of the belts, even when the rest of the belt looks good, if the recommended mileages for changes are exceeded.
I don't know about American products, but I know that most Honda and Nissan products will likely cause serious internal damages if the timing belt strips or breaks, while most Toyota products are non-interference and a broken belt won't cause any engine damage.
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I've been cleaning a few parts a day. I don't like cleaning parts, so it's not something I stick with.
When I get the block, I'll clean them again real quick, but that wont take much. Then I'll paint it all at once.
Eddie
When I get the block, I'll clean them again real quick, but that wont take much. Then I'll paint it all at once.
Eddie
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RobJ
Elite Member
Syncro said:
I'm not sure how a new timing chain would increase the power?
Rob,
Because a worn timing chain retards both the valve and iginition timing, (unless the ignition timing is reset as it wears) but there isn't anything you can do about resetting the valve timing. A new timing chain will also help fuel economy noticably, especially if you advance the valve timing with either an offset key or a special multiple keyed drive gear.
Years ago I had a 73 Dodge Charger with 400 big block, and the avg economy increased a whopping 20% by replacing the timing chain and advancing the valve timing with an offset key. Going from 10 mpg to 12 mpg doesn't sound like much, but it's 20%. Glad I don't have that gas hog with today's gas prices!
Because a worn timing chain retards both the valve and iginition timing, (unless the ignition timing is reset as it wears) but there isn't anything you can do about resetting the valve timing. A new timing chain will also help fuel economy noticably, especially if you advance the valve timing with either an offset key or a special multiple keyed drive gear.
Years ago I had a 73 Dodge Charger with 400 big block, and the avg economy increased a whopping 20% by replacing the timing chain and advancing the valve timing with an offset key. Going from 10 mpg to 12 mpg doesn't sound like much, but it's 20%. Glad I don't have that gas hog with today's gas prices!
