Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions

   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #41  
Your list of expenses, almost seems like it should have ended with:

Owning a Steiner . . . Priceless.

I plasma cut apart an old given to me 430MAX Diesel. I couldn't help but be impressed with the build quality. No PLASTIC and not much formed/stamped sheit metal.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#42  
So I checked the seat's switch, because it has to be pressed down for the PTO to work, and there was continuity.

Then I supplied 12volts to the PTO, and I can hear it click and the magnet/armature is working, so that is good. That leaves us with an electrical problem, maybe the rocker switch or the relay (which I haven't found yet) or both.

I got a lot of things greased, and working. All in all, a good day tater. :)

More later.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Your list of expenses, almost seems like it should have ended with:

Owning a Steiner . . . Priceless.

I plasma cut apart an old given to me 430MAX Diesel. I couldn't help but be impressed with the build quality. No PLASTIC and not much formed/stamped sheit metal.

They ARE built tough to last. I'm not afraid to take any of the major components apart to work on them. (I am very, very happy that so far, none of the major components seem to be bad.)
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Your list of expenses, almost seems like it should have ended with:

Owning a Steiner . . . Priceless.

I plasma cut apart an old given to me 430MAX Diesel. I couldn't help but be impressed with the build quality. No PLASTIC and not much formed/stamped sheit metal.

why did you cut it apart? What fact turned it to scrap metal?
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #45  
DSC03426.JPG

This poor machine just tried to push a bon fire when the oily hoses (and fuel line) going thorugh the articulation point caught fire. By the time the FD got there, this is all that remained. Gave the engine to a friend recently to try and recover components to repair a small NH skidsteer, but there didn't appear much useable in the engine.

I DID luck out, because I bought a (GREAT) Gas, Kubota 430 MAX at auction for the V-Plow only and didn't realize it was missing the front PTO assembly, so this donar machine saved the day.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#46  
View attachment 676635

This poor machine just tried to push a bon fire when the oily hoses (and fuel line) going thorugh the articulation point caught fire. By the time the FD got there, this is all that remained. Gave the engine to a friend recently to try and recover components to repair a small NH skidsteer, but there didn't appear much useable in the engine.

I DID luck out, because I bought a (GREAT) Gas, Kubota 430 MAX at auction for the V-Plow only and didn't realize it was missing the front PTO assembly, so this donar machine saved the day.

That's sad. Glad a few parts were salvageable.

I just found out the 230's drive shaft that connects between the Kubota diesel, and the hydraulic pump, cost $728.89 :shocked:

I hope mine is OK, I know that one of the bolts through the rubber coupling is missing. Better fix it before it gets out of hand.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#47  
They want $48 for a parking brake cable, pretty simple and only about a foot long???

I'm probably going to have to take off the big front wheels, to get the brakes freed up and working smoothly.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #48  
No big deal. My friend got a brand spanking new 440 with dual wheels. Recovered his insurance money spent for many years I guess.

JD wanted something like $700.00 for a 6" splined shaft in my E-Gator Axle! I never experienced Steiner prices being outrageous actually.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #49  
It is a good thing your electric clutch worked....... lol..... There are other switches that have to be right position to get it to work..... jim
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#50  
The only thing I did yesterday was I put the PTO clutch in the lathe and sanded the pulley. It is very rusted. I should probably pull apart and sand down the internal rust. Also the bearings need replacing.

I have a bead blaster at work to use if necessary.

The pulley that is a double belt pulley was very rusted too. Got it cleaned up. It needs bearings too.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #51  
I used to have a local customer with a blasting cabinet. That sure WAS nice!
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #52  
I don't know exactly how it works, but I believe the accumulator is attached with a proportioning valve that can be finely adjusted. You put the front implement in "float" mode, then hydraulically you adjust the proportioning valve. The accumulator helps take up the ebb and flow of the attachment riding over uneven ground. This is my best guess at the moment.

Not sure about the 230, but on my 220 there is a knob, which is actually a valve. I lift my mower to the top and hold the lift control with the knob open, until the pressure gauge gets to around 500 psi. Then I close the valve and then lower the mower. I found my balance point of good traction and deck staying down at 400-450 psi. I guess it counter balances the weight of the deck, allowing a measures amount of up force on the deck without lifting it off the ground, thereby transferring weight on to the drive wheels.

The 230 may be different though. I hope that helped.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Not sure about the 230, but on my 220 there is a knob, which is actually a valve. I lift my mower to the top and hold the lift control with the knob open, until the pressure gauge gets to around 500 psi. Then I close the valve and then lower the mower. I found my balance point of good traction and deck staying down at 400-450 psi. I guess it counter balances the weight of the deck, allowing a measures amount of up force on the deck without lifting it off the ground, thereby transferring weight on to the drive wheels.

The 230 may be different though. I hope that helped.

Thanks!
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #54  

I almost forgot. Make sure you open that valve to relieve the pressure before you try to take off the mower, otherwise bad things happen, like the lift arms flying up and scaring the bejeebus out of you. You probably know how I know.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#55  
I piddled on the 230 today, amongst other things.

I believe a new rocker switch and harness adapter will get the electric PTO working again. It has an Ogura pto made in Japan. It's quite rusty. I'm debating taking it apart to sand the surface, or just let it "break in" again using the on and off many times method. Maybe the rusty surface will give it better grip than stock....

I put in a battery and fired it up again today. Noticed oil dripping down on my right foot. The spool valve has 2 ports, both are 9/16" -18 threaded "-6" size port fittings. One of them had rusted and developed a pin hole leak. Surplus center has new ones cheap.

SAE 6 Male Plug 648-6 | SAE Plugs | Plugs & Caps | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com



Here is a link to a Zinga oil filter I will try on the hydraulics.
Replacement Filter Element 25 Micron Zinga AE25 | Zinga | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions
  • Thread Starter
#56  
The wheel's hub has a bit of longitudinal slop. Trying to get wheel hub off. Anyone know the trick?
IMG_20201124_110910972.jpgIMG_20201124_113810469.jpg
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #57  
No, sorry. But I will certainly pay attention in case I have to do that some day. Did you say, why it has to come off?

Compared to a real torch, I don't have much use for sprays, but it can't hurt. Even if you can't get the thing hot enough, which would be a challenge, sometimes I think the heat may cause the oil to seep in better. Maybe a wack or two and then try brute force with a puller again.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #58  
It's a taper fit I think.. you will see a threaded bolt hole screw a bolt in there and it should back off the tapered lock...... jim
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #59  
Interesting. That would make perfect sense as there doesn't appear any other way of securing the hub.
 
   / Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions #60  
The wheel's hub has a bit of longitudinal slop. Trying to get wheel hub off. Anyone know the trick?

Slop doesn't sound like good news for the bearings. My usual recipe for stuff like that is to heat it up to spit sizzle hot, douse it in a good penetrating oil like Kroil or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, let it cool, then try the puller again. Keep repeating until you lose your patience and go after it with a BFH (Big F'n Hammer). Good luck, and don't hit yer finger!
 

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