PA160 STH unboxing!

   / PA160 STH unboxing!
  • Thread Starter
#81  
I saw that idea, and tried it, but it seemed like chucking the tungsten in the drill was kind of more trouble than it was worth. How critical is the bevel on the tip? I'm sure I would get a more consistent bevel with a drill than turning by hand, but right now I'm just turning by hand.
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #82  
I use to sharpen by hand until I seen how Zap does it. I really like it! I live in a county that has three huge Navy yards. One is a nuclear submarine base, (one of my son-n-laws is a rigger there). Some of the best weldors in the world live here. Years ago the company I was working for wanted me to learn how to Tig weld stainless steel pipe. They sent me to welding school to learn. The teacher was a high pressure pipe weldor out of the local Navy shipyard. He took a liken to me at first sight:confused3:! He would bring me tungsten from the shipyard. They don't grind their tungstens, they are turned on a lathe! Mirror finish on them.:cool:
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #83  
Here is a chart someone posted, on WW I think. This is opposite of what I was taught, or maybe I mixed things up in my head over the years:confused3:! But I thought you'd get more penetration with a really sharp point.
 

Attachments

  • Tungsten pen.jpg
    Tungsten pen.jpg
    105.3 KB · Views: 262
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #84  
You can buy chemical that sharpens the tungsten and special tungsten grinders but they're expensive. What's most important is to grind lengthwise with the grain. I know a good TIG welder that uses a fibre sanding disc in a 4 1/2" grinder to grind his tungstens. You have to have a dedicated grinding wheel or sanding disc for tungstens.
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #85  
joshuabardwell said:
The Miller calculator only calls for a 1/16" electrode for this joint. What's the effect of using a larger electrode than is called for? I know larger electrodes have more current-carrying capacity, so the down-side of using too small an electrode is obvious, but what's the tradeoff for using a larger-than-necessary electrode?
Poor stability at lower amps.
The tip won't get as hot, so it won't emit current as well. Just sharpen to a point to help.
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing!
  • Thread Starter
#86  
I use to sharpen by hand until I seen how Zap does it. I really like it!

Just wanted to say, I gave the sharpening with the drill another try and I think you're right that it's better than doing it by hand. It's even faster, since the tip grinds down faster when spun in the drill vs. by hand. You can apply more pressure when turning with the drill because you're only doing one thing at a time with your hand.
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing!
  • Thread Starter
#87  
OMG you guys TIG welding is so awesome!

I'm building a cart for my welder so I can move it around with the cylinder attached. I'm using some 1" x 1/8" thick square tubing that I have left over from another project. I have stick welded this stuff before, but I kind of hate it. I feel like I have to move fast to keep from burning through, but at the same time, the joints are only ever 1" at a time, so there's this tiny little target zone that I have to hit. And even with 3/32" electrodes, the resulting joints look like big ugly scars on that little tubing.

To top it all off, the sun was going down, and I had to get out a work light. I just cannot stick weld by work lights. Something about the shadows and depth perception and the halogen constantly setting off my auto-dark hood just adds up to I fall apart. I managed to tack everything up with 6011, and then I switched to 7018 to do the finish, and I just kept sticking the rod again and again. I got one terrible bead done and then hit a standstill. I checked the ground. I checked the tip of the rod for slag. I don't know what was wrong, because it was so dark I couldn't see what I was doing.

So I cussed a lot and then I went to the barn and said twenty Hail Mary's (actually, I was swearing) while grinding the mess I had made back to clean. While I was there, I got to thinking. I had decided to stick weld this project because I barely have an hour under the hood with the TIG torch, while I consider myself to be minimally competent with a stick welder, and I figured I would just make a mess of the thing with TIG. But as bad as things were going, I figured they could hardly get any worse, and if it came down to it, I'd just cut the thing up and use it for practice stock.

What a difference! The small stock was no problem for the TIG torch, of course. And instead of being 14" away from the joint, I was right in there so I could see what I was doing. Instead of having an arc and smoke plume obscuring everything, I could see the puddle forming, and every little thing it was doing. It was just beautiful. If I put in filler too soon, I could see it ball up and sit, and then I could see the puddle form and watch the filler wash in. I could really see the effect of different heat settings on the base metal. Once, I even saw the puddle starting to sag as I nearly burned through. It was just amazing being able to see every little thing that the arc and puddle were doing in the joint.

Wow. TIG is amazing.

A couple of pics are attached, 'cause I'm sure some people will like to see them. As flawed as they are, these are the best of the bunch. The outside corners are a little bit cheating, because I skipped the filler entirely and just used the torch to melt the edge together. On the flat joint, I had a small groove that I ground in with a cutoff wheel and then I basically just laid a 1/16" filler rod in the groove and washed over it with the torch. I still just make a total mess if I try to actually feed wire.

One of the most obvious problems I am having is breaking the arc without leaving a "bubble". I try doing what I've seen Jody do in his videos, where you wash back over the bead slightly while backing off the pedal, but it doesn't fix it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7449.jpg
    IMG_7449.jpg
    155.2 KB · Views: 151
  • IMG_7450.jpg
    IMG_7450.jpg
    171.1 KB · Views: 155
  • IMG_7451.jpg
    IMG_7451.jpg
    238.2 KB · Views: 144
Last edited:
   / PA160 STH unboxing!
  • Thread Starter
#88  
... oh, and Shield Arc: I know. ROUND THE CORNER! As soon as I looked at the corner, I realized I hadn't done it. I'm going to go back and fix it tomorrow. See? I never would have thought to just go back and dab in another dollop of weld with stick!
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #89  
TIG is fun isn't it.? I knew you would like it. Keep working on it.

James K0UA
 
   / PA160 STH unboxing! #90  
I would rather use my wave balance to adjust penetration as opposed to tungsten grind angle. That chart is something i have never seen and it makes perfect sense.. / You can get by with a larger than needed tungsten by sharpening a long ( 5/8" ) taper. Beats switching collets all the time. The only time I worry about tungsten contamination from a bench grinder is when welding aluminum. / If you want to try a cool tig welding process put in an .040 tungsten and weld up some 28ga. I personally need a Mag lens for this but it's neat to see how light you can go with a good tig unit.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

DMI 3200 Side Dress Bar (A50514)
DMI 3200 Side...
2025 Unused International MV607 Truck TMA Attenuator Truck (A49461)
2025 Unused...
PLEASE CHECK BACK!!! ITEMS BEING ADDED DAILY!!!! (A50775)
PLEASE CHECK...
2019 INTERNATIONAL LT625 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A51219)
2019 INTERNATIONAL...
2016 Ford Escape AWD SUV (A50324)
2016 Ford Escape...
2007 TROXELL KILL/TRANSPORT TRAILER (A50854)
2007 TROXELL...
 
Top