Penetrating fluid

/ Penetrating fluid #61  
You were correct with the 50/50 acetone and ATF mixture. put it in a spry bottle and it is the best hands down.

The big surprise to me with that machinist magazine test was WD 4o, that it worked at all:mur:. That has to be the most useless crap that ever hit the market and look at the price of it?????:thumbdown:
 
/ Penetrating fluid #62  
The big surprise to me with that machinist magazine test was WD 4o, that it worked at all:mur:. That has to be the most useless crap that ever hit the market and look at the price of it?????:thumbdown:

Ya and that old liquid wrench ranked over PB. My experiences are that PB Blaster works much better than LW :confused:
 
/ Penetrating fluid #63  
I use Gibbs on the guns when not wanting the stink or hazards of Kroil or ATF/acetone (on stock finish, etc) or able to use heat. Gibbs Brand I'd rank it with Kroil for effectiveness, and it's great for cleaning up locks or freeing stuck nipples on sidelock MLs and on alum. IMO paraffin (canning wax) works about as good as bee's wax for heat & wick use. U-joint or ball-joint presses beat c-clamps for pressing and are more compact.

I agree that heating doesn't require hot disassembly every time. Having press tension or using air hammer helps there during or after heating cycle. Several hot/cool cycles often allow penetrants or wax to work in better once cooled. Have used a burp gun (HD, <200 cycles/min) to remove bucket pins that weren't stuck, just rusty, when no helper was available to take side-tension off 'em.
I agree Gibbs is best have used KROIL for years but Gibbs I find better. My son is a gunsmith and
uses Gibbs all the time on old rusted guns as well as new ones,good stuff.
 
/ Penetrating fluid #65  
The big surprise to me with that machinist magazine test was WD 4o, that it worked at all:mur:. That has to be the most useless crap that ever hit the market and look at the price of it?????:thumbdown:

So I would like to know what the issue is with WD-40. I've seen people on this thread knock the stuff and yet I use it all the time. It may not work the best but it's available and it works. I like the coating it leaves behind that keeps parts from rusting and it definitely smells a lot better than some of the alternatives. Still doesn't small great though! So...educate me.
 
/ Penetrating fluid #66  
The big surprise to me with that machinist magazine test was WD 4o, that it worked at all:mur:. That has to be the most useless crap that ever hit the market and look at the price of it?????:thumbdown:

Wd40 works pretty good when I am cutting aluminum.
 
/ Penetrating fluid #68  
So I would like to know what the issue is with WD-40. I've seen people on this thread knock the stuff and yet I use it all the time. It may not work the best but it's available and it works. I like the coating it leaves behind that keeps parts from rusting and it definitely smells a lot better than some of the alternatives. Still doesn't small great though! So...educate me.

To me wd40 does have some good qualities, but penetrating a stuck fastener is not one of them. Not completely useless and is worth having around, but for stuck stuff there are far better options.
As a side note, the makers of pb blaster have what I believe is supposed to be their alternative to wd40. I bought some a while ago in a promotional pack with the penetrating oil... I think it's called pb50 :)
 
/ Penetrating fluid #70  
I buy their aftermarket ball joints that are every bit as good as everyone elses ball joints...

...their higher quality industrial grade tools

I would say both of these statements are a bit of a stretch.
 
/ Penetrating fluid #72  
I use lots of WD often. A couple of gallon containers and a refillable spray bottle has gone a long, long way for me over the years. Never usually as rust dissolving penetrant but when a light a lubricant is needed and most often for oil and grease...wipe down motor parts, clean up funnels and drain pans, my shop tables and most all my tools when needed including cordless.
 
/ Penetrating fluid
  • Thread Starter
#73  
Thought I'd let y'all know. Tried every penetrating fluid and method y'all told me on here and nothing worked. Ended up having to grind the plate off, that had the link arm bolted to. Then using oxy-acetelyn torch I heated the ball and hit beat the crap out of that p.o.s ball joint and it finally moved. That worked!!
 

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