pole barn squareness?

Junkman · Dec 18, 2003

call the local lumber yard and order a couple of 18' pieces and any other items that you are going to need. There is no way to effectively make the piece longer..... and the lumber yard will deliver......

Glenn9643 · Dec 18, 2003

Sounds to me like you're going up with the walls before the roof??? If so, will you be able to bring the trusses inside the building area to raise them?
How do you plan to raise the trusses? It's much simpler and cheaper to do it by hand with a building the size you're building. If you raise the walls I don't see how you're going to be able to get the trusses up. Tell us your plans here.

RichNJKubota · Dec 18, 2003

I agree, the local lumber yard is the way to go. They will deliver and drop off anything you want. My local yard uses a rollback and just drops the stuff off. Sure you pay a little more but what is your time worth to go to Home Depot and pick it out and bring it home? If I get a bent or twisted piece of lumber I just tell them when I order the next shipment and they send a replacement and take away the twisted one.
When I ordered sheetrock they came with a boom truck and put it in the house from the truck in the driveway. Saved me hours of labor if I had to move it by hand.
I have an account there so I get an invoice every month that I buy from them.
Rich

PeterT · Dec 19, 2003

spanning 16 ft. with a 2x6 header ? sounds a little lite to me you may want to use a 2x12 for this span. Good luck
PeterT

CTyler · Dec 19, 2003

I agree that is to small, should be 2x12. Even the headers on my 10' wide doors is a 2x12.

Glenn9643 · Dec 19, 2003

Said I would find the brocure related to bracing the trusses, but this is even better. See this url:

http://www.tpic.ca/handling/handling.pdf

Glenn9643 · Dec 19, 2003

A few more:

http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.com/Hurricane_Truss_Bracing.html

http://www.wsitruss.com/HIB.PDF

http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/theses/available/etd-03312000-08240040/unrestricted/etd.pdf

mopower440 · Dec 19, 2003

Glenn, the only link i could see was this one..http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.com/Hurricane_Truss_Bracing.html.......are the others pretty much the same? I couldnt look at the others because my computer doesnt have whatever it is required to view it..?

Glenn9643 · Dec 19, 2003

Go here and download the file for Adobe Acrobat Reader:

www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

However, I think the one you've seen is probably the easiest for you to understand.

mopower440 · Dec 20, 2003

Good deal Glenn, thanks! Looks easy enough to brace up..I have 2 more questions now, ok, i am going to be putting up the truss supports(headers) tomorrow, now, i am going by this book ...Mthew logans pole barn book
I know everyone said they use 2x12 headers to support the trussess, in this book however, he uses 2 2x8's..one on the outside of the poles like normal, but also one on the inside of the poles, so even though they are 2x8's there is actually 2 of them that the truss will be setting on, in other words, the 4x6 posts will be sandwiched between 2 2x8's, surely this is as good as using 1 2x12 isnt it? Like i said, this is how he does it in his book that im going by...next question, i would also like to frame up the rough opening for the windows, but i have no idea of what the RO should be as i have no idea of what windows to use and are cheap, any ideas?
thanks Mthew logans pole barn book

SPIKER · Dec 20, 2003

Hey MOPO:

I would not use the 2x8 myself, as others said, use the 2x12 one on each side, it is not that much more cost over the life of the building but it sure will help tie it all together. My barn has 2x12 sandwitched on each side of the 6x6, but it is all wood with 2nd floor setting on the 2x12's all the way out to outside edge. then 2x12 flor joist spanning the 18 feet to the middel posts which are set on 10' centers, (joists and roof framing is all on 16" ctrs as it is getting finished off as upstairs appt some day.). the center posts have 2x12's on each side too, and the total width is out to 38' x 50 feet. it has 10' porch down the 50' side too.

http://www.bright.net/~ispike/home2

Mark m /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

bebster · Dec 21, 2003

Home Depot carries a line of cheaper windows. I'm sure there are even cheaper ones available out there, especially if they don't have to be insulated. You might want to check them out, and then use the R.O. dimensions of the window you pick. Windows come in all kinds of R.O. dimensions, so make sure you pick your windows before framing the openings for them.

SteveBenson · Dec 21, 2003

I also used 2 2x12's on each side of the pole to form my sidewall girders. Technically though, it depends on the load rating required for the roof, the span of the roof, and the spacing of the poles and trusses. Any architect or engineer could easily help you determine what you need given the specifics.

SteveBenson · Dec 21, 2003

Nice Barn. Very impressive /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

mopower440 · Dec 21, 2003

Ok, one more thing i think i need to do, i want to anyway, i see some pole barns have like a cross brace made of 2x4 that run from the top of one post to the bottom of the one next to it, think it helps keep it from just collapsing like dominoes, but im not exactly sure where on each wall they need to be and weather it should run from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the next, or from the bottom of the corner post to the top of the next, anyone got a good picture of how they need to be? If im thinking right, they only need to be on the corners..?

SteveBenson · Dec 21, 2003

If you are sheathing with plywood or OSB then you don't need to add any shear bracing (bracing in the plane of the wall) as the plywood or OSB is stronger in shear than anything else you can ever add. If this is the case then you can just add some temp bracing while framing and remove after the plywood is up.

If you are using metal siding then you must add proper shear bracing. You can do like you said and run a 2x4 from the top of one pole to the bottom of the next. By using such a large brace you probably won't need to brace between every set of poles (probably just 2 of these per wall on a building your size). Metal strap bracing is also used in a manner similar to what you describe, although metal straps have to done in an X shape as they only support tension loads.

Many people run 3-4' diagonal braces between the girder and posts, which allows for windows, doors, or open walls.

Some people also add braces between there sidewalls and their roof trusses. I don't think this is a real big issue on a small building like yours as long as your walls and trusses are otherwise properly braced, especially if you are sheathing with plywood or OSB.

mopower440 · Dec 22, 2003

Using metal siding, so should the 2x4 run from the TOP of a corner post to the bottom of the next, or from the BOTTOM of a corner post to the top of the next?

SteveBenson · Dec 22, 2003

I'm not sure that it really matters as adding the diagonal 2x4 will brace the box either way it's put up. Personally I would go to the top of the corner post, but I couldn't really tell you why that would be better. Maybe some others have some reasons for which way is better.

If you are only using a 2x4 for that brace I'd make sure it is secured to your girts.

Junkman · Dec 22, 2003

If you want to make it rock solid, then use diagonal bracing going in the two differant directions at each corner by reversing the inside with the outside......

DUMBDOG · Dec 22, 2003

The corner bracing should run from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the next post. The use of the bracing is to provide additional strength for wind load.