Question For Connecting Double Lever Control Valve

[ampa]

Seems lodgical....I'm gonna' go down and check.... and take more pics....and post them ....try and get some clear shots this time.... by messin' with settings on my digital camera may help get rid of the fuzzy pics I've been gettin' lately.....some pic's are still still on the fuzzy side....I zoomed in on the first pic....so it may have something to do with the zoom section of my new 10 meg Fugi digital camera I bought last year....I need to take it back to Future shop and get one of the young guys to set it up for me...

I know nothin' about how to set it up to get good clear pic's..... seems since we moved I've either lost or misplaced the operating manual....I'd be a bit leary on removing anything that requires a special required gasket....on account of the very costly plus hard to get parts on these old greymarket BOLENS/ISEKI tractors.....I may have to replace the "O" ring and looks to be just a standard metric size more than likely available @ any tractor supply outlet....also do you think that cylinder for the angle is gonna' work properly ? view the two pic's...one end of the cylinder is bolted to a 1/4" gauge bracket I have picked up in my travels.... that fit my needs perfectly....

I'll be wire welding with my standard 120 volt 125 amp Lincoln welder this bracket to one side of the looks to about 1/8" gauge or more "A" frame strut(R)... even though I'm still a newbie with my new welder... I'm quite confident my little Lincoln can weld it as long as I concentrate most of the heat to the 1/4 gauge bracket....then I plan to make up a bracket mount for the pivot point... using a proper length shoulder type bolt with a proper lock nut.....I just came back from Princess Auto with another $135.51 including 13 % tax for the valve only fittings...still alot more to buy..here's a pic of the valve with 6 crimp style fittings sticking out from it. the top 4 are only 1/4" the side fittings are 3/8" for the "P" in and "T" out.....the two 1/4" unused ports on top of the valve the in and out ( plugged)..........thanks Donnie<>Ampa

 

[ampa]

Come on guys!... I need a bit more help here..I know I'm a hardhead and this hydraulic issue is all Greek to me...or perhaps the main reason is you that guy's are not familar with ISEKI greymarket tractor's...and neither am I and I own one.....I've got most of the valve fittin's......I may go back and buy some kind of extentions for two of them ports to bring them up a bit higher so as they all point in the same direction....

the hydraulic guys are both away the rest of this week finishing up their course on hydraulics....so now a young lady has taken their place...she knows a bit more than me...I asked her for a PB adapter and she sold me an offset 3/8 swivel....I'm not too sure if this will fit my application....the on board hydraulics is still there but I won't be usin' it...Thanks <>Ampa

 

[ampa]

My QD mounted on a 1/4" aluminium plate ready to be mounted to the front large piece of 1/2" plate steel....Ampa

 

[ampa]

Hi David and Donnie.....I happened to find the repair manaul that came with my tractor....I looked up the hydraulic schematics on page 112....first of all the manual states BOLENS tractor marked on the front cover of this book(manaul)...also has different listed model # s.....and the given model # for BOLENS which is in fact an ISEKI and these tractors were built for BOLENS... so now my tractor is a BOLENS...G-174. :confused2:.

for ISEKI it's a model TX-1704. I'm not too sure this will help any with my past and present issues (like I still don't know how to connect this hydraulic system) but it sure saves tearing side plates off to find nothing behind that will help me with this stubborn problem

now the 3 pt. hydraulic which like I first mentioned..... is internal....built into the rear axle housing...this includes the control valve the piston cylinder which is single acting....and the axle housing is the reservoir(this one has the large pipe running from the front mounted pump which is attached to the front left side of the engine and driven by the timing gears....

with this added imformation...is it helpful for my hydraulic issue to tapping into it?...because this thing has given me a headace from the very start....this manual shows no extra ports behind any side plates so in my terms assume it's a closed circuit(no external ports to conect to....

so I guess the old method of tapping into this sytem is only to use a Tee connection to bypass the internal....now if this sounds like my only option...I can do this...but I still need the opinions from others....thanks in advance....Ampa

 

[J_J]

I kind of thought we had given you the answers, or options. If you need a return for the hyd fluid from a valve, and there is not a port on the tractor casing, then the filler cap can be used.

It would only be logical for a tractor that only has a 3pt, to use a small hyd pump, and run the output to the rear casing. So if you are not going to ever use the 3pt again, just cap that small line to the rear casing. After installing the new valve, connect the pump to the new valve, and run a return hose to the filler cap on the tank/reservoir. You will need a relief valve before the pump, or in the valve itself.

If you have the money and time, you can have someone do a flow and pressure test on your tractor

 

[ampa]

Thanks J_J....thist be the first time I ever read the repair manual on my ISEKI...even though it's only a photostat copy and all the pics are too dark to see anything important..at least the text is ledgitable...so I posted what I read on the hydraulic system....I don't know if that will help or not J_J with what I'm dealing with..the filler cap is made of plastic..wouldn't it be better to cut into the suction(large steel line) instead ?.

someone has linked me a video based on how to tap into an exsisting system on a late model Kubota...and it had the same same two of steel lines as on mine... bein' the "P" and the large suction line... still no mention of cutting the suction...just mentioned cutting a section out of the small "P" line....the one cut end into the valve...the other out and using the other cut end of the same single main line to the the end of the cut line...sort of like a loop....

I don't understand it...it mentioned nothing about tapping into the filler cap....what do you think is goin' on here J_J ?...let me know cause I'm stumped...this is why it's taken me so long to figure out what this is all about..maybe tappin' into an exsistin' system is just mind boggling...it sure is doin' a number on this ol' brain of mine....get back and try explain what this is all about.....Ampa

 

[DonnieP]

Ampa,
Had some time and was busy surfin' this afternoon and found some info that may interest you. Check out these and see what bets fits yours:
http://sonnys_bolens.tripod.com/iseki/TX1300-1500-OM.pdf
http://sonnys_bolens.tripod.com/iseki/TX2140-2160-OM.pdf

Look here and put in TX1704 in the model number, select 'service Manual', put in your email, and click the 'terms of service' box then do a search. If you want to take a chance and pay the $50 you could get your service manual.

http://www.2instructions.com/search.php?cmarque=ISEKI&cdescription=Tractor

And the best for last:
koyker loader installation instructions

These are suppose to fit on Iseki tractors, scroll half way down and it shows what to do with the hydraulic line to put a control valve in. I like this idea, if you ever want to remove the control valve you can put the jumper in and your system is complete.

Cut the pressure line, and run the end from the pump up to the 'P' of your valve and take the 'T' from your valve back to the line that goes back to the transmission.

Donnie

 

[ampa]

I can't believe your patience on not givin' up until you had all the facts....you down easters are known never to give up....yep....I'm up here in Ontario...I drove down to Cape Breton around 1995 with my ex girlfriend took a cable ferry over to her part of the woods (she was born in Meat Cove)....

If I remember correctly that was when I first learned how to drink....well tell you the trueth the down home boys didn't think I was a drinker....well at least not to their standards...and I guess they were right...gettin' drunk up here is not quite the same as gettin' drunk down east...

this was in Meat Cove that I darn near fell over the enbankment... with the shores of the Atlantic Ocean just below me...first time I'd ever seen the ocean...any ocean....specialy that close up.....anyhow Donnie...I really appreciate your patience....and now I can give everyone a rest on this issue including J_J.. who have gave me a lot of his timeand anyone else I've left out...he thought I had it all covered....

so simple..... specialy when it's all layed out step by step how to do it.... since no one really knew anything about my ISEKI's hydraulic system....so now everyone can relax and help someone else with other issues...this should help all the ISEKI/BOLENS tractor owners needing to move their hydraulics up front.....thank you ever so much Donnie for stickin with me on this issue till the end....take care <>Ampa <> :thumbsup:

 

[DonnieP]

Just noticed the middle link didn't go through - guess you wondered what I was on about.

"Look here and put in TX1704 in the model number, select 'service Manual', put in your email, and click the 'terms of service' box then do a search. If you want to take a chance and pay the $50 you could get your service manual."

Manual / Instructions / User's Guide : Tractor ISEKI ( ISEKI User's Guide, Operational Manual & Service Manual )

The cable ferry is about 10 miles from my place.

Donnie

 

[ampa]

Hi Donnie.... I was so close I could have waved to you as I drove by ....is the cable ferry still operating ?......anyhow....like I mentioned I have the repair manual......would the service manaul have more info to offer over the manaul I got with the tractor when I first bought it 3 years ago..

seems like I'm gonna' have to really beef up that blade....I hope my welding holds out....the 1/4 " metal I'm thinkin' of usin' is way heavier than whats on the new snowblade....my old 48" Craftsman took quite a beating for about the 3 years that I owed it...

it was way lighter than this new one....anyhow I'll get on this again tomorrow....still pickin' up bits and pieces....but now I'm totaly out of funds....cleaned out...I can't believe the cost of those hydraulic fittings....even the pipe threaded fittings are the same price as the ones for the valve and you don't get no "O" rings Hmmmmm...I've got alot but still need more fittings....Thank you once again....take care Donnie......Ampa