Rear wheel seal on YM2000

[careyo63]

No way would I even consider going through all that just to remove the collar? Put a few Notches in it so you can get a bite with the puller. May have to heat it up. Once you move it and you can get behind it and your home free. Your not going to wear out the Axle Bearings. Clean them up and repack them with Grease and your be good for another 30+Yrs.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I did the left and right sides differently to see how they would hold up. The right axle was removed and the bearings, seal collar and seal replaced as you see in the photos. For the left axle I just replaced the seal collar and a new seal. Both sides worked fine until this year when I noticed the left axle starting to seep oil out again. Why it is leaking I am not sure. May be something with the bearing and maybe not. Either way, I will pull the axle and replace the bearings. It is very important to replace the seal collar either way.

You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean.


I did say something wrong in my previous post about the piece of pipe. I had to use it to push the outer bearing out. If you don't have a press you could knock it out with a hammer and a pipe but be careful to support the axle housing evenly so you don't take the chance of damaging the housing. The bearing on mine was stuck in there pretty good and it took some pressure on the 20 ton press to get it to move. Once it broke free, it pushed out smoothly. The PTO comes out real easy as one unit and goes back in easy.

 

[Car Doc]

I may have a tip on the seal collar. I deal with seal collars on Toyota truck rear axles quite often for seal/bearing replacement.

Anyway if you have a dremel or real small die grinder all you need to do is use a 3/4" dia cut off wheel cut a long diagonal cut across the collar from close to the bearing out (if you nick the brg race its no biggy) and get as deep as you can we are just trying to weaken it at this point not cut it off.

Then simply take a sharp chisel and strike the collar in the cut you made and with the axle supported solidly and it will spread the collar and it will fall off a lot easier. hth

 

[careyo63]

I've done my share of axle bearings,seals/collars on all makes and Models. Thats why I suggested to try and get a grip on the collar with a puller and just move it enough to get behind it. I'm not to keen on using a hammer on equipment and repairs. Your risking damaging the Axle,Bearing and clip.

 

[Car Doc]

Then what do you do when it doesn't budge just curious? If Clemson is working on the same axle as in the pic he wont get something behind the collar unless he can press the end of the axle first.


The procedure I mentioned is standard procedure on automotive axle bearings btw been done that way for ever just mentioned so Clemson may or may not have been aware of it for his benefit.

 

[careyo63]

Get It Hot!!!!! ? It's swell and come right off. Yep.. Been There Uh. Done that for Yrs. also.A DUh Huh sure beats a Hammmer. But then you get replace What you tear up. Oh Axel bearings on someone elses Veh? I see more Mula in your pocket LOL????And my axel isn't anthing like the one shown. Doesn't look like much of a choice on that one.

 

[Car Doc]

No actually I make more mula fixing them right and not spending all day messing around with them.

Seriously man get a grip it wasn't personal makes you look bad talking that way. Even a hammer can be used with finesse but some guys just dont have it so thats understood on your part.

 

[clemsonfor]

I did the left and right sides differently to see how they would hold up. The right axle was removed and the bearings, seal collar and seal replaced as you see in the photos. For the left axle I just replaced the seal collar and a new seal. Both sides worked fine until this year when I noticed the left axle starting to seep oil out again. Why it is leaking I am not sure. May be something with the bearing and maybe not. Either way, I will pull the axle and replace the bearings. It is very important to replace the seal collar either way.

You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean.


I did say something wrong in my previous post about the piece of pipe. I had to use it to push the outer bearing out. If you don't have a press you could knock it out with a hammer and a pipe but be careful to support the axle housing evenly so you don't take the chance of damaging the housing. The bearing on mine was stuck in there pretty good and it took some pressure on the 20 ton press to get it to move. Once it broke free, it pushed out smoothly. The PTO comes out real easy as one unit and goes back in easy.

OK here is the question, when you pull the axle/tube, does the inner axle bearing near the gear, does it press into the housing? You would have to get it off the shaft before you can press the outer bearing out with a pipe?

Also if i pry the axle colar out with screw drivers, do i need to worry about maring that bearing, well the cage that holds the bearings. I should say the face that rests against the colar? Thats why i did not slip a screw driver in there and start whacking, i was worried about maring up the bearing!

Also Cary, you cant pack these bearings? They are open and lubed in an oil bath in the axle? The replacements may be different, but if i get the pics to show up you will see what i mean.

 

[careyo63]

I never pulled my axel Clemsonfor No need to????

 

[clemsonfor]

I am going to put the axle seal on and see what we have. Its pitted but did not leak for almost 3 years i had it, and i know it did not get the pits it has on it in 2.5 years and 100hrs of service!!

I need the tractor in 2 weeks but if its still leaking i will tear into it this winter, and not pull the axle if at all possible.

When i get the old ring off, how do you get the new one on? Do i need to find the perfect diamater pipe to slide over the axle? Its got to be a tight fit so it dont leak, or should i slide it on then heat it and beat, i dont want to mar the axle getting the new one on, should i grease it to slide it on?

EDit: As for the pics, i have no idea what happened? I know i was having trouble posting it and then moving around, it kept poping up the quick reply box like i had not posted yet they were posted. I then dbl posted and deleted the double. I then viewed the pics fine and they appeared as thumbs, only to this mourning to find the links but them be "invalid".