Rear wheel seal on YM2000

[careyo63]

No way would I even consider going through all that just to remove the collar? Put a few Notches in it so you can get a bite with the puller. May have to heat it up. Once you move it and you can get behind it and your home free. Your not going to wear out the Axle Bearings. Clean them up and repack them with Grease and your be good for another 30+Yrs.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I did the left and right sides differently to see how they would hold up. The right axle was removed and the bearings, seal collar and seal replaced as you see in the photos. For the left axle I just replaced the seal collar and a new seal. Both sides worked fine until this year when I noticed the left axle starting to seep oil out again. Why it is leaking I am not sure. May be something with the bearing and maybe not. Either way, I will pull the axle and replace the bearings. It is very important to replace the seal collar either way.

You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean.


I did say something wrong in my previous post about the piece of pipe. I had to use it to push the outer bearing out. If you don't have a press you could knock it out with a hammer and a pipe but be careful to support the axle housing evenly so you don't take the chance of damaging the housing. The bearing on mine was stuck in there pretty good and it took some pressure on the 20 ton press to get it to move. Once it broke free, it pushed out smoothly. The PTO comes out real easy as one unit and goes back in easy.

 

[Car Doc]

I may have a tip on the seal collar. I deal with seal collars on Toyota truck rear axles quite often for seal/bearing replacement.

Anyway if you have a dremel or real small die grinder all you need to do is use a 3/4" dia cut off wheel cut a long diagonal cut across the collar from close to the bearing out (if you nick the brg race its no biggy) and get as deep as you can we are just trying to weaken it at this point not cut it off.

Then simply take a sharp chisel and strike the collar in the cut you made and with the axle supported solidly and it will spread the collar and it will fall off a lot easier. hth

 

[careyo63]

I've done my share of axle bearings,seals/collars on all makes and Models. Thats why I suggested to try and get a grip on the collar with a puller and just move it enough to get behind it. I'm not to keen on using a hammer on equipment and repairs. Your risking damaging the Axle,Bearing and clip.

 

[Car Doc]

Then what do you do when it doesn't budge just curious? If Clemson is working on the same axle as in the pic he wont get something behind the collar unless he can press the end of the axle first.


The procedure I mentioned is standard procedure on automotive axle bearings btw been done that way for ever just mentioned so Clemson may or may not have been aware of it for his benefit.

 

[careyo63]

Get It Hot!!!!! ? It's swell and come right off. Yep.. Been There Uh. Done that for Yrs. also.A DUh Huh sure beats a Hammmer. But then you get replace What you tear up. Oh Axel bearings on someone elses Veh? I see more Mula in your pocket LOL????And my axel isn't anthing like the one shown. Doesn't look like much of a choice on that one.

 

[Car Doc]

No actually I make more mula fixing them right and not spending all day messing around with them.

Seriously man get a grip it wasn't personal makes you look bad talking that way. Even a hammer can be used with finesse but some guys just dont have it so thats understood on your part.

 

[clemsonfor]

I did the left and right sides differently to see how they would hold up. The right axle was removed and the bearings, seal collar and seal replaced as you see in the photos. For the left axle I just replaced the seal collar and a new seal. Both sides worked fine until this year when I noticed the left axle starting to seep oil out again. Why it is leaking I am not sure. May be something with the bearing and maybe not. Either way, I will pull the axle and replace the bearings. It is very important to replace the seal collar either way.

You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean.


I did say something wrong in my previous post about the piece of pipe. I had to use it to push the outer bearing out. If you don't have a press you could knock it out with a hammer and a pipe but be careful to support the axle housing evenly so you don't take the chance of damaging the housing. The bearing on mine was stuck in there pretty good and it took some pressure on the 20 ton press to get it to move. Once it broke free, it pushed out smoothly. The PTO comes out real easy as one unit and goes back in easy.

OK here is the question, when you pull the axle/tube, does the inner axle bearing near the gear, does it press into the housing? You would have to get it off the shaft before you can press the outer bearing out with a pipe?

Also if i pry the axle colar out with screw drivers, do i need to worry about maring that bearing, well the cage that holds the bearings. I should say the face that rests against the colar? Thats why i did not slip a screw driver in there and start whacking, i was worried about maring up the bearing!

Also Cary, you cant pack these bearings? They are open and lubed in an oil bath in the axle? The replacements may be different, but if i get the pics to show up you will see what i mean.

 

[careyo63]

I never pulled my axel Clemsonfor No need to????

 

[clemsonfor]

I am going to put the axle seal on and see what we have. Its pitted but did not leak for almost 3 years i had it, and i know it did not get the pits it has on it in 2.5 years and 100hrs of service!!

I need the tractor in 2 weeks but if its still leaking i will tear into it this winter, and not pull the axle if at all possible.

When i get the old ring off, how do you get the new one on? Do i need to find the perfect diamater pipe to slide over the axle? Its got to be a tight fit so it dont leak, or should i slide it on then heat it and beat, i dont want to mar the axle getting the new one on, should i grease it to slide it on?

EDit: As for the pics, i have no idea what happened? I know i was having trouble posting it and then moving around, it kept poping up the quick reply box like i had not posted yet they were posted. I then dbl posted and deleted the double. I then viewed the pics fine and they appeared as thumbs, only to this mourning to find the links but them be "invalid".

 

[Car Doc]

I could have the collar off in 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel and a chisel fix it correctly and then forget about it whats the issue? Yes a pipe would do fine with a bit of oil. Takes a tiny little hit with the chisel to spread the collar its soft steel.

Fact we rarely even use a cutoff wheel we usually just stake the collars in 3-4 places @ 90 degrees until she moves and go on with life. Get a torch on it you take the chance of over heating the bearing cage then you have to replace one more part.

 

[careyo63]

Have to have a Torch Really? And a hammer Is that how you work on them there toyotie's. Haven't you figured it out yet? A hint FNWY. LOL

 

[Gary Sweat]

OK here is the question, when you pull the axle/tube, does the inner axle bearing near the gear, does it press into the housing? You would have to get it off the shaft before you can press the outer bearing out with a pipe?

Also if i pry the axle colar out with screw drivers, do i need to worry about maring that bearing, well the cage that holds the bearings. I should say the face that rests against the colar? Thats why i did not slip a screw driver in there and start whacking, i was worried about maring up the bearing!

Also Cary, you cant pack these bearings? They are open and lubed in an oil bath in the axle? The replacements may be different, but if i get the pics to show up you will see what i mean.

My photos were how to remove the bearings if you want to change them. If you just want to change the seal and collar then you don't need to remove the axle housing. I did only that on the right side and it is leaking again. Maybe I scratched something or not getting the seal collar off while it was still on the tractor. Don't know for sure but next time I'm removing the axle housing and doing it the same as the left side that is not showing any signs of leaking.

I used the shop press because it was simpler and less chance of scratching up the axle surface or dinging a bearing and I didn't have to cut, heat or beat on it. The inner bearing will slide out of the tractor easily and back in. It does not have to be pressed in or out.

The pipe only has to be large enough diameter to get the bearing out. Also works to put it back in if it is just a tad smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing.

The surface area you have to worry about damaging is part of the axle itself that the seal collar fits over and the outside of the seal collar. A scratch or ding on either of those areas will let oil seep past.

The bearings I received from Hoye were sealed. I removed the seals around the inner bearing and left them on the outer bearing. A little more protection on the outer bearing against any dust working its way past the seal to the bearing. The inner bearing needs to let the oil flow in and out of it.

 

[Car Doc]

A hint FNWY. LOL

What are you about 12 IQ and age about the same? :laughing:

 

[careyo63]

I'm Going to have to remember that one. Must of heard that in one of the Toyotee shops. Probly comes up Quite Often :laughing:

 

[clemsonfor]

reuploaded

I figured id put a few pics for those who want to do this or find this thread in the future. There not in order obviously but you should be able to figure out the order of progression. Actually just looked, there in reverse order.

 

[careyo63]

My collar looks in great condition compared to the looks of yours. I had some small micro pits and thats about it. With the grove worn around it you don't have much of a choice. I feel alot better now and can live with a drop or two and thats about it when I park it .

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks for that cary. I may do it but i need the tractor next weekend.

I keep thinking though i have had this thing almost 3 years. An i know it did not get like that in the last 3! I use to park this thing on pavement most of the first 2 years and would have noticed the drip, nothing. So it had to be holding like that for a few years til a piece of sand or something finially wore it out? I may go cutting on it, well see? It all depends on if i can find a pipe the right diameter to press a new colar on.

 

[winston1]

The 6209 bearing is 1.77165" shaft size. You might consider heating it up and just slide it on.

 

[clemsonfor]

As tight as it feels on there i still am amazed that it could slide on that easy with heat.