Not talking about sliding off with heat, just sliding the new one on with heat. I would use car docs suggestion of removing the old one if your not going to remove the axle housing. You could definitely harm your bearing by heating right next to the bearing.
Rear wheel seal on YM2000
- Thread starter clemsonfor
- Start date
- Views: 19742
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I was planning on cutting it out witha tiny cut off wheel or making a grrove then spreading it with a chisel.
Then heating and using a pipe or something to set it flush. I have been worried about doing anything as that bearing is there.
I need to clean up the axle tube so that i can mount the carrier gasket cleanly. The "glue" or whatever they use in the VN places is awfull and sticks like crazy. Its hard to scrap with a razor. I could barely wire wheel it off the carrier plate without several passes. But i am worried to use the wire wheel on the axle flange as i am worried about wire and bits going in the bearing even though i layed a rag over them and covered them. That and my splayed out wire wheel with stray wires, im worried may hit the bearing cages.
Then heating and using a pipe or something to set it flush. I have been worried about doing anything as that bearing is there.
I need to clean up the axle tube so that i can mount the carrier gasket cleanly. The "glue" or whatever they use in the VN places is awfull and sticks like crazy. Its hard to scrap with a razor. I could barely wire wheel it off the carrier plate without several passes. But i am worried to use the wire wheel on the axle flange as i am worried about wire and bits going in the bearing even though i layed a rag over them and covered them. That and my splayed out wire wheel with stray wires, im worried may hit the bearing cages.
Not sure what you mean by "set it flush". I'm thinking it goes right up against the bearing. That may be what you are talking about. In any event, if you heat the new one, take some welders gloves you can slide it right against the bearing. Hold it for a few seconds with something and your good to go. Don't heat it till it turns blue. Somewhere around 250 degrees and it will slide right on.
A little 320 sand paper on the axle will help a lot also and some 90 wt on the surfaces it will likely drive on w/o any additional persuasion. fwtw I use schd 80 pvc sometimes as drivers its cheap and its clean beats finding a pipe in the iron pile.
Remember spray oil is your friend! I always start a day or so if I can ahead of attempting removing something spraying stuff letting it do its thing. hth
Remember spray oil is your friend! I always start a day or so if I can ahead of attempting removing something spraying stuff letting it do its thing. hth
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I been spraying this one with oil as well as the bearings to keep a light film of oil on it as there exposed now.
I did not realize 250F would do it and i would be able to move it with welding gloves!!!! Thats good news.
You were correct, by drive it flush, i meant flush to the bearing race.
Im gonna go cut and whack on it today when i get home after i put a bit of heat to it. Parts should be on the porch when i get home today according to hoyes site.
I did not realize 250F would do it and i would be able to move it with welding gloves!!!! Thats good news.
You were correct, by drive it flush, i meant flush to the bearing race.
Im gonna go cut and whack on it today when i get home after i put a bit of heat to it. Parts should be on the porch when i get home today according to hoyes site.
Clemson you might try this first before using the cut off wheel-to further illustrate my procedure in 1 dimensional internet haha take a sharp chisel and set it at right angle to the collar (have it running the direction of the axle) and strike it and turn the axle 90 degrees and strike again and so on a couple times around and the collar will be stretched and will move easily. I have done this as long as I have been working on cars we all do it that way. hth
The cut off wheel method is for hard metals or difficult ones fwtw same end result stretching the collar just different way about it. Hard metals will simply break at the cut soft metals will stretch.
The cut off wheel method is for hard metals or difficult ones fwtw same end result stretching the collar just different way about it. Hard metals will simply break at the cut soft metals will stretch.
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
Will try that, although the only chisels i think i have are for an air hammer. I guess i will use those. I am following what your saying, im my Young weak mind i dont see how that will streach the soft collar? Streach the outside of it but the inner diameter i dont see it? Not saying this does not work, cause you clearly have done more of this that me.
On the other had i can see how scoring it and then chiseling it will streach it. I have cut half way through plety of things and streached them to remove them or split the bolt or nut or whatever.
Wow, cant beleive we have gone 5 pages on this so far!! Clearly you can see i like to talk!! Anyone finding this thread should have no question where to start!
On the other had i can see how scoring it and then chiseling it will streach it. I have cut half way through plety of things and streached them to remove them or split the bolt or nut or whatever.
Wow, cant beleive we have gone 5 pages on this so far!! Clearly you can see i like to talk!! Anyone finding this thread should have no question where to start!
It works real good just be patient keep re-striking the same places as you turn the axle the grooves will get deeper and that is what moves the metal you dont have to be using super hard blows either.
If its a hardened steel you will need to cutoff wheel it you will know if it wont dent.
I use a cut off wheel on inner bearing races and WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON chisel them they break real easy.
edit: I dont think air chisels will work with a hammer they may be to springy and not heavy enough to transfer the energy needed? I may be wrong but I wouldn't use mine for this I know that. I have a 3/4" square chisel about 10" long I use and it gets the job done pretty quick. fwtw
If its a hardened steel you will need to cutoff wheel it you will know if it wont dent.
I use a cut off wheel on inner bearing races and WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON chisel them they break real easy.
edit: I dont think air chisels will work with a hammer they may be to springy and not heavy enough to transfer the energy needed? I may be wrong but I wouldn't use mine for this I know that. I have a 3/4" square chisel about 10" long I use and it gets the job done pretty quick. fwtw
Last edited:
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I know we had a thread on this, but with these paper gaskets. What was your method of sealing with a paper gasket. Was it just the paper and no silicone or thin coating of silicone and paper?
I always have put paper and thin coats of silicone on both sides?
I always have put paper and thin coats of silicone on both sides?
I use either paper or glue never both as a rule.
If I have no choice but to use glue and paper at the same time for instance- reusing one thats stuck on and still useable I may glue it or a situation a gasket wont stay put I only glue one side and I try to do the side that is the roughest surface.
Reason being is glue is a lube sotospeak and will cause gaskets to squish out at the bolt holes not good. This is not 100% a sure thing but is the way I reason out each situation, if a gasket is thick and the flanges are thick also probably a person could glue both sides just fine but you get the jist I hope.
If I have no choice but to use glue and paper at the same time for instance- reusing one thats stuck on and still useable I may glue it or a situation a gasket wont stay put I only glue one side and I try to do the side that is the roughest surface.
Reason being is glue is a lube sotospeak and will cause gaskets to squish out at the bolt holes not good. This is not 100% a sure thing but is the way I reason out each situation, if a gasket is thick and the flanges are thick also probably a person could glue both sides just fine but you get the jist I hope.
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
OK TNB did not like my pics to be attached and kept messing up and not loading some. This is the reason for the 3 posts with pics. This is the only way i could load the remaining pics, if i went to the same reply the old ones were still in the box unloaded??
Anyway i had thm in order now there all outta whack cause some loaded and others didnt. You should be able to figure this out. Its dissassembly and reassembly.
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I did not have time to comment on the pics as i was trying to get out the door this mourning.
Sorry that there just cell pics, not as good, but better than nothing. I wanted to take them for others doing this.
OK the seal colar is metal bonded to rubber (viton or something stiff) for the inner part of it. You can see it in the first set of pics where its just the colar. The old one was not easily seen which is why i thought it was all metal. Its about 1/3 metal 2/3 rubber it looks like if i remember right or 60/40 or something.
I did the whack turn 90 degrees and go again till it was loose, then i kind of pryed it with 2 screw drivers, which is why i had that screw driver there for the pic. i then just pulled it off. The new one i lubed up and cleaned the shaft, and slid on till it stopped. i spun it, and had a pipe fitting that went till the splines ended on the shaft then was just barely to small to fit over the smooth part of the shaft. I put just a bit of heat to it, as i was worried about melting the rubber, it was still enough to burn me as i touched it with a finger. There was no melting of rubber as i was carful, i was able to push it by hand another 1/2" or so,but could not seat it the last 1/2" against the race. I ended up getting a peice of 2x wood and a dead blow and slowly tapping it around like you would a seal till it seated firmly against the race. This is really an easy job, and i made it out to be more than it is. With it being rubber on the inside i think is why it goes on and removes so easy.
Sorry that there just cell pics, not as good, but better than nothing. I wanted to take them for others doing this.
OK the seal colar is metal bonded to rubber (viton or something stiff) for the inner part of it. You can see it in the first set of pics where its just the colar. The old one was not easily seen which is why i thought it was all metal. Its about 1/3 metal 2/3 rubber it looks like if i remember right or 60/40 or something.
I did the whack turn 90 degrees and go again till it was loose, then i kind of pryed it with 2 screw drivers, which is why i had that screw driver there for the pic. i then just pulled it off. The new one i lubed up and cleaned the shaft, and slid on till it stopped. i spun it, and had a pipe fitting that went till the splines ended on the shaft then was just barely to small to fit over the smooth part of the shaft. I put just a bit of heat to it, as i was worried about melting the rubber, it was still enough to burn me as i touched it with a finger. There was no melting of rubber as i was carful, i was able to push it by hand another 1/2" or so,but could not seat it the last 1/2" against the race. I ended up getting a peice of 2x wood and a dead blow and slowly tapping it around like you would a seal till it seated firmly against the race. This is really an easy job, and i made it out to be more than it is. With it being rubber on the inside i think is why it goes on and removes so easy.
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
Thats why i posted it, from what i got here even from Gary who tore his down, it sounded like it was solid metal?
But yea, when i opened the new one yesterday, i was thingking "huh new design", as the one on there looked like solid metal. But it too had a rubber backing. Which makes sense how it seals to the axle so well i guess.
The new carrier and seal fit nice n snugly on the new collar, it should not leak!
But yea, when i opened the new one yesterday, i was thingking "huh new design", as the one on there looked like solid metal. But it too had a rubber backing. Which makes sense how it seals to the axle so well i guess.
The new carrier and seal fit nice n snugly on the new collar, it should not leak!
Gary Sweat
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2010
- Messages
- 519
I forgot to mention the rubber because I forgot about it after a year or so. But I did say you can take the seal collar off with a couple of screwdrivers in post #22.
"You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean."
Sorry about missing the rubber on the inside. And glad to see you got it repaired.
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I remember about the screw drivers thats kind of where the idea came from that and common sense. But i could not tap screw drivers in behind the seal as it was seized to the axle and nothing would go back there and pry. I was worried about maring and jarring the bearings why i did not do to much of it. Thats where the chisel worked it loosend the rubbers grip and i was able to slip it out a 1/16 or so then slip the screw drivers back there and pry.
And yes you would have to take the axle off to press that bearing out. I was not going to do that so i did not want to remove the axle.
And yes you would have to take the axle off to press that bearing out. I was not going to do that so i did not want to remove the axle.
Gary Sweat
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2010
- Messages
- 519
On the axle that I just replaced the collar and seal, I sprayed Kroil on it the night before and let it sit. It loosened the bond on the axle and the collar came off with just a little pressure with the screwdrivers. One more thing I forgot about doing. Seems I can remember the big things but not the little ones that make the bigger ones easier to do. Kroil works better than any penetrating oil I have used. You just have to give it time to work. I'm going to pull the axle this time and do what I did on the other side. The way Yanmar is going, I better order all the parts I want and fix them and then sell the tractor. I like the tractor but I don't care for Yanmar anymore.
