Local OH company at one time Save Edge used to offer re-sharping of their files. Never checked into it though.
Only if used wrong... which admittedly the teenager they put to the task in most saw shops will do. This was the basis in my final sentence about bench grinders a few pages back, "it's easy to wreck a whole lot of chain, real fast."
But in the hands of anyone who knows what they're doing, and using a decent stone, these problems are completely avoidable. You never lay into the tooth with the grinding stone, but instead it's a "tap-tap-tap" process, when sharpening teeth with a bench-mounted chain grinder.
A file is a mighty coarse tool, when it comes to sharpening any blade. Do you sharpen your pocket knife with a file, or a stone?
And yes, I know the reality of the situation is there are a lot of crappy stones out there on a lot of cheap Horror Freight grinders, doing an absolutely terrible job of sharpening. But as a matter of principle, which technology has the potential to generate a sharper and cleaner edge, stone or file?
Me? I fell and buck my own 10 - 14 cords of wood per year, mostly oak, so I've got more hours on the handles of a chainsaw than most non-pros. I can tell the difference between a hand-filed chain and a bench-ground chain for about the first minute of mounting it on the saw, just basically until the fresh chain is "de-burred". But from there until it's ready for the next sharpening, I really can't tell any difference in a chain that's been well-sharpened using either method.
That said, I'm not letting the kid at the saw shop do my chains, either.
Still have a couple of boxes of the Save Edge. My favorite at that time. Have put my files in a coffee can with kerosene and then wire brush them. That seemed to have worked well but don't use saw as much as used to so now just take a file card dry to them
Made in Portugal. Cool. Probably made by the Tomé Feteira factory, which is only 10 to 15 miles away from me. In there, in the top with the best files in the market.
www.shforestrysupplies.com
A guy gave me one. I tried it... filing was way better so I gave it to a friend who cuts alot of wood. He ended up giving it to his dad. Don't know where it is now... garage sale fodder probably.The Timberline sharpener is one of the quickest to learn out there and does a very good job. It is made in Idaho, and repair parts, and adapters for other angles and chain sizes are available. It is around $125, but should last a noncommercial sawyer their lifetime. There are chiwanese versions for $100 less but have never seen or used one. So, can't recommend them.
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)This is a man who knows what he's talking about. Easy 10-15 faster with a dremel. Sharpens the hell out of it too. Look at the angle on the blade, and match it by hand. This isn't building watches. It doesn't have to be exact. With these give me 3 minutes, and my 28" bar/blade is ready to eat.
I've never tried this, but my one thought would be that you could overload the saw by taking too big of a bite with each cutter??
It give you a more aggressive chain. Cuts faster throwing noodles and not chips. It is also way more prone to kickback.
Was it an actual timberline, or one of he Chiwanese knock offs? There is a big difference in how well they work.
It's easier to show than tell. Plenty of good videos on Youtube on the subject. I did tree work for a living for over 20 years, FWIW. A few things to keep in mind:
