Imold
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2019
- Messages
- 806
- Location
- West Central Mn.
- Tractor
- MF GC1705, Cub Cadet RZTL, Husqvarna Rider.
Ok Ok do not beat me to hard guess I never seen that video but at least my mind is on the right track.
To take this a step further, you could hook into the front hooked where the mower deck assembly comes in to create a full length armor plate. Lock that in first then drop the middle lift arms and uses the spring pins to pick up the whole skid plate pivoted on the front. Use the center lift lock knob and boom. Set.I am starting to think I might need to go on a building mission out in my shop, take some stuff out so I have some room and then start looking at trying to come up with something that will work underneath, soon as my wheels get here(tomorrow it looks like) I will be able to get the deck in the shop and then I can use that to maybe start making a template with heavy cardboard, the hard part will be trying to get under the tractor.
Guess I am starting on my next project for the winter not unless someone else comes up with a prototype.
After all, all I have is time.
To take this a step further, you could hook into the front hooked where the mower deck assembly comes in to create a full length armor plate. Lock that in first then drop the middle lift arms and uses the spring pins to pick up the whole skid plate pivoted on the front. Use the center lift lock knob and boom. Set.
If you stay down to 3/16 max thickness you should be fine for any plate to plate welds. The challenge will be getting what will likely be 1/4" tabs hot enough to get good penetration with a 115V/20A. Maybe preheat the metal with a mapp gas torch to get penetration on thicker metal and a lower power unit.I was just outside looking at the deck and I drew a ruff sketch using the the front hookup assembly and I think I’m on to a easy to pin on skid plate, now I just need some measurements and a trip to the iron shop, think I might be able to weld with my 110 welder and not have any side effects like I did with the 220, that was definitely a no no hahaha, at least I will get a ruff plate and I can refine it from there.
If you stay down to 3/16 max thickness you should be fine for any plate to plate welds. The challenge will be getting what will likely be 1/4" tabs hot enough to get good penetration with a 115V/20A. Maybe preheat the metal with a mapp gas torch to get penetration on thicker metal and a lower power unit.