Splitting Rock
- Thread starter JimMorrissey
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Gunnahafta
Member
Results: The stone only peeled off the top edge.
Learned mistakes:
1. Holes weren't lined up very well
2. I tried to split off too narrow a width for the thickness of the stone
3. I didn't wait long enough between poundings for wedges to do their work.
So... Round 2....
I made a drilling template out of some wood strapping to help drill hole in a very straight line. This time I tried them 5 inches apart to help "guide" the split...and drilled down one side to further help the split.
Learned mistakes:
1. Holes weren't lined up very well
2. I tried to split off too narrow a width for the thickness of the stone
3. I didn't wait long enough between poundings for wedges to do their work.
So... Round 2....
I made a drilling template out of some wood strapping to help drill hole in a very straight line. This time I tried them 5 inches apart to help "guide" the split...and drilled down one side to further help the split.
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Gunnahafta
Member
Results: Better, but not there yet...
Mistakes: See number 2 above.... I now figure I will most likely be able to split off a 7" step with this method (which is a standard riser height). I looked up the weight of granite (162 lbs/cubic foot), so I figure this 52"x7"x21" step that I will finally get will weigh approximately 662 lbs. and my tractor bucket will lift approx. 550 lbs.... Oh well, I'll figure that one out when I get that far...
Mistakes: See number 2 above.... I now figure I will most likely be able to split off a 7" step with this method (which is a standard riser height). I looked up the weight of granite (162 lbs/cubic foot), so I figure this 52"x7"x21" step that I will finally get will weigh approximately 662 lbs. and my tractor bucket will lift approx. 550 lbs.... Oh well, I'll figure that one out when I get that far...
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Gunnahafta
Member
I am interested to see your results.
Quick questions. I assume your F&W are 1/2 inch since that is the stated size of your core bit. They look bigger in the photos
How deep and how long did it take to drill each hole with the 1/2 inch bit?
Quick questions. I assume your F&W are 1/2 inch since that is the stated size of your core bit. They look bigger in the photos
How deep and how long did it take to drill each hole with the 1/2 inch bit?
Gunnahafta
Member
That's correct--1/2 inch F&W. The core bit will drill about 2.75" deep and takes approximately 2 minutes per hole. The core bit with the water coolant requires a steady pressure and moderate RPM. I could drill about 9-10 holes per battery (I have 3) with this drill--no problem. I use a masonary bit to start the end two holes and then dowel the template in place to start all the other holes with the core bit....
AndyR
Gold Member
I have not used the diamond drill and have not seen any masons using one for this application. I use carbide tipped spline drive masonry bits. I like the Dewalt as they usually are a bit beefier and have 4 points on their big bits where others have 2. I don't use any water and have a portable generator for when I am away from available AC power. I generally keep my holes about 4" deep or so and usually work with 3/4" holes though I will use 1/2" in tight spots.
It takes some practice to get the feel for how far to set your holes. Keeping things in a straight line is important if you want good results though it is quite possible to split out arcs if you have the practice. While not necessarily a Zen thing you do need to kind of get your head into the rock, as it were, to think about how the forces will produce a good split. Make sure all your feathers are lined up perpendicular to your cut line and work them one at a time so that they exert equal pressure. I use a mash hammer/pointed mallet to work the line between the holes as things get tight with the wedges - it helps to aid the fracture process.
Lastly - it is certainly possible to have granite with layers in it that seem to be something like sedimentary rock. It is all a matter of how the material was formed and behaved over time. Just walk along a stone wall in New Hampshire (or most of New England for that matter) and you will notice areas where there is an abundance of nice sqaurish wall stone. They didn't split it - believe me. There are just certain sections of rock that naturally cleave that way.
It takes some practice to get the feel for how far to set your holes. Keeping things in a straight line is important if you want good results though it is quite possible to split out arcs if you have the practice. While not necessarily a Zen thing you do need to kind of get your head into the rock, as it were, to think about how the forces will produce a good split. Make sure all your feathers are lined up perpendicular to your cut line and work them one at a time so that they exert equal pressure. I use a mash hammer/pointed mallet to work the line between the holes as things get tight with the wedges - it helps to aid the fracture process.
Lastly - it is certainly possible to have granite with layers in it that seem to be something like sedimentary rock. It is all a matter of how the material was formed and behaved over time. Just walk along a stone wall in New Hampshire (or most of New England for that matter) and you will notice areas where there is an abundance of nice sqaurish wall stone. They didn't split it - believe me. There are just certain sections of rock that naturally cleave that way.
OP
JimMorrissey
Veteran Member
Gunna,
Thanks you for the technique and lessons learned. That is a great series of photos. In fact, I am on my way to do some work around Montpelier, VT and intend to get some feather and wedges this afternoon while I'm in the area. I'll take some pictures and let you know how it goes.
I think you'll find that your loader might just be able to lift the slab enough to move it (with sufficient counter weight). If not you'll need to rig something up and use your your 3 point hitch to lift and place the stone. -Like to see some pictures of your steps when they're done.
Welcome to TBN. Lots of good people on here.
Thanks you for the technique and lessons learned. That is a great series of photos. In fact, I am on my way to do some work around Montpelier, VT and intend to get some feather and wedges this afternoon while I'm in the area. I'll take some pictures and let you know how it goes.
I think you'll find that your loader might just be able to lift the slab enough to move it (with sufficient counter weight). If not you'll need to rig something up and use your your 3 point hitch to lift and place the stone. -Like to see some pictures of your steps when they're done.
Welcome to TBN. Lots of good people on here.
Gunnahafta
Member
Thanks for the kind words. I've been gleaning wisdom from this site for quite a while and am amazed at the wealth of knowledge, kindness, and generosity found here. Great group of people almost without fail. I haven't posted much because I feel more of a student than a teacher, but I realize now that I learn as much from mistakes as I do from lectures, so posting my mistakes may help others.
I did look in my manual (Kubota B7500) at the specs this morning and it looks like my lift capacity is more than I thought (at the pivot pt.). I'll have to rig it so I'm lifting as close as possible to that.... I have started thinking about using the 3PH somehow as well....
Good luck in your project and I look forward to your pictures and comments! I'll post more pix when I get back at it.... All the best...
I did look in my manual (Kubota B7500) at the specs this morning and it looks like my lift capacity is more than I thought (at the pivot pt.). I'll have to rig it so I'm lifting as close as possible to that.... I have started thinking about using the 3PH somehow as well....
Good luck in your project and I look forward to your pictures and comments! I'll post more pix when I get back at it.... All the best...
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
After you get the chunks of stone back, how are you going to smooth out where the drill holes are?
