Tired Ford 3000 engine......

[Kaliburz]

Here are some pics....
4630 engine- pic of the 'new' re-man engine

tranny- one on the left is the 'new' one, on right is old

oil- bucket was new, white, clean. What you see is what came out of the rear case

case gunk- just what it is. This pic is after it was cleaned up a little...I tilted the rear end for ward (lowering it) and it drained more. Also wiped out some gunk w/ a shop towl. It was like 1/4" thick...

hoist- pick of the custom mount I made for the cherry picker. Goes on to a forklift.....the project couldn't be possible w/out this!

I'll have to pour some clean oil in to see if I can wash out the case. Case drain is stuck, so I'm stuck to letting it drain from the front.....

Was going to assemble engine/tranny on ground, then insall whole. I think it would be a bit heavy to do it that way.... So it'll go up seperately.

 

[Kaliburz]

8/7- Tranny in.....
Tomorrow....hopefully the engine.

And yes, we remembered the coupling shaft for the PTO......

 

[Soundguy]

Nice progress. I'm enjoying the play by play and the pics.

If only I had some pop corn, a nice beverage, easy chair, and could watch this heppening ( and not sweat )...

Soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

Heck, had to wait till 6pm to do anything. Was in the upper 90's/low 100's yesterday. Was way to hot to even climb on the thing..... da barn wasn't quite big enough to park it inside.

The only "issue" I had was, the studs I got were a bit short (4 of the 6). Had to match the studs since the OEM were odd sized. Should have went next size up, but was afraid of clearence issues. The other 4, the stud is just a shy from sticking out of the nut. But the tranny is in. All the thing will be doing is sitting up there. Case is held together primarly by the two top and bottom bolts. Figure I'll check the bolts now and then to make sure they don't work loose. Torque setting was lower then I thought it would be.

The pic, that's my buddy and his brother. The "younger one" was running the forklift, lifting and tilting while we "old farts" lined everything up and hoped not to mash threads and fingers. We were surprised the tranny went in as smooth as it did.

 

[Soundguy]

I know what you mean about the heat. I got home yesterday around 4 and got supepr ready for the wife and I, as she worked a bit later than i did. I actually waited till 7pm to head out and feed the animals and collect eggs... Even at 7pm.. sun was still out and hot.. go figure..

I'm glad to see I'm not the only guy who wears those nitrile blue gloves when doing greasy work... makes hand cleanup way easier.. especially the fingernails.

Soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

8/8- Engine in. Nearly didn't want to go in...then the younger brother said to turn the crank...slipped right in.... pics later..... (I only wished my engine tilter was a two way tilt instead of one.....for/aft AND left/right).

Oh ya...... tag that came w/ engine said that oil system should be presure lubed prior to start up. How does one do that? I know how it's done w/ gas engines (via the distributor hole and adapter)....but how about diesels that don't have a distribtor hole?

One of the NH 'shop boys' at the local dealer said that there should be enough assembly lube to take care of the initial start. BUT, the tag said to do it... I'd rather err on the side of caution....

I was thinking, get a PVC pipe, cap ends, drill/tap a hole- one for a hose, one for the air chuck, put oil in it and then put presssure on it. (Yes, crazy).....

 

[Soundguy]

What about back pressure on the oil gauge/ sender line.. or an adapter over the pickup tube?? ( grasping here... )

On some engines the oil pressure relief valve is easy to get to, and add oil there.. etc.. not so sure about yours though...

Soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

Sorry for the lack of updates/pics. Been busy w/ a lot of stuff. Just realized a few days back that some of the coolent lines in the semi truck will have to be changed before harvest....ugg...LOTS of coolent to drain from that system.

Any how, I came up against a nice "snafoo". Temp sender "plug" from the factory is a square female. Usually a 1/4 or 3/8" ratchet can be stuck in there and it can be removed. Funny thing is, the square is bigger then 1/4 but smallter then a 3/8" drive! Even thought of shoving a flat head screw driver in there to see if I could back it out, but thought against it. Forgot to use the caliper on it..... but a 1/4 drive would just spin, way too small. The 3/8 is big by quite a bit. I take it there is a "special wrench" or do I have to get some square stock and grind till it fits in said square hole......

"If it's not one thing..... it's an other." (or a quote from Mr. Murphy.... "It happens".)

Edit-
Just looked at something on tractordata.com about Ford 4000's. It listed a SN/ID on the end of the info. Funny thing is, it lists the 4000's as having a "C" prefix stamped usually on the tranny. BUT, looking at the IT shop manual, it says that the 4000's had a "D" prefix while the 3000's had a "C".......

Now I'm really confused!!!!???? Especially since the old engine bore/stroke matched a 4000. And while browsing the PDF parts manual.... some of the "body parts" listed match the 4000 shape... not much, but still..... Could the IT shop manual be wrong w/ their prefix????

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Sorry for the lack of updates/pics. Been busy w/ a lot of stuff. Just realized a few days back that some of the coolent lines in the semi truck will have to be changed before harvest....ugg...LOTS of coolent to drain from that system.

Any how, I came up against a nice "snafoo". Temp sender "plug" from the factory is a square female. Usually a 1/4 or 3/8" ratchet can be stuck in there and it can be removed. Funny thing is, the square is bigger then 1/4 but smallter then a 3/8" drive! Even thought of shoving a flat head screw driver in there to see if I could back it out, but thought against it. Forgot to use the caliper on it..... but a 1/4 drive would just spin, way too small. The 3/8 is big by quite a bit. I take it there is a "special wrench" or do I have to get some square stock and grind till it fits in said square hole......

"If it's not one thing..... it's an other." (or a quote from Mr. Murphy.... "It happens".)

Edit-
Just looked at something on tractordata.com about Ford 4000's. It listed a SN/ID on the end of the info. Funny thing is, it lists the 4000's as having a "C" prefix stamped usually on the tranny. BUT, looking at the IT shop manual, it says that the 4000's had a "D" prefix while the 3000's had a "C".......

Now I'm really confused!!!!???? Especially since the old engine bore/stroke matched a 4000. And while browsing the PDF parts manual.... some of the "body parts" listed match the 4000 shape... not much, but still..... Could the IT shop manual be wrong w/ their prefix????

Not saying the I&T manual is wrong, but that's been the general complaint with them over the years. MISinformation. They're 99.9% accurate, but just enough possibility of bad info to loose faith in them. Then again, tractordata.com has been known to screw up once in a while too.

 

[Soundguy]

4000's will have a '4' or a 'D' depending on age.

Pre 3-68 will be a 4.. and 4-68 to 1975 will be a 'D'

Give me your sn, model id and production code.. I'll give you the chassie rundown, tranny, fuel, and exact date the unti was built including the shift.. assuming no parts have bene changed out.. etc.

Soundguy