Tree Puller used as a Shear

[zzvyb6]

Just ordered a Titan Tree Puller, should be here tomorrow according to FedEx. I thought that a tree shear is really what I wanted and considered making 1 from some target steel. Then I saw the Titan add for a 'puller' and went for it. Picture is from the Titan site. The idea is to sharpen 1/2 of one side of the jaws nearest the hinge to get a shear action there. I can still grip with the far jaw teeth. Yes or No ?

Ideas? bolt on a hardened knife blade?

 

[ehcrain]

I run a mtl puller on my L3901, and from the start the teeth were sharp enough to mash smaller trees apart in a close appearance of shearing. Leaves a mess of a stub or stump but anything less than 2 inches across is most likely not going to be pulled and instead gets mashed in two.

 

[ovrszd]

I don't think that would work for me. To get the most lift power I want the tree closer to the tractor, thus hinge point. I would get quickly frustrated every time I sheared a tree I wanted to pull.

My Brother had a shear. I hated that thing. Left a disaster. If you ever plan to use a field, never shear it....

 

[4570Man]

There’s a big difference in the clamp strength in the shear and a puller. I don’t think you’d be able to shear much beyond 2” and at that size you might as well pull it.

 

[shooterdon]

I run a mtl puller on my L3901, and from the start the teeth were sharp enough to mash smaller trees apart in a close appearance of shearing. Leaves a mess of a stub or stump but anything less than 2 inches across is most likely not going to be pulled and instead gets mashed in two.

I have the same issue with my MTL. Easy to shear smaller trees. I have purchased a wireless camera to see If I can be more careful in gripping. Have not tried it yet.

 

[LD1]

Yea, I think clamp strength would be lacking. And if you do shear a larger tree with that thing.....what control the sheared tree? What prevents it from coming back on you?

But as far as steel and material go.....I dont think you need to get too exotic....Wood is ALOT softer than even mild steel. Most logsplitter wedges are just mild steel and seem to do just fine

 

[Torvy]

I'd be more worried about a mechanical option ordered from Titan. You never know what you will get and if it malfunctions, you are out of luck. I hope hours works out great. I am not a big fan of a company that plays off of the good name of another company for profit.

 

[ovrszd]

There’s a big difference in the clamp strength in the shear and a puller. I don’t think you’d be able to shear much beyond 2” and at that size you might as well pull it.

My concern would be the smaller trees that he wants to pull, but shears them instead. Very hard on an FEL to place the tree exactly in the jaws. Normal procedure is push forward until you start leaning the tree.

 

[DaBear3428]

you will not have a deep enough blade to shear anything over the width of the cutting blade.

 

[ovrszd]

Yea, I think clamp strength would be lacking. And if you do shear a larger tree with that thing.....what control the sheared tree? What prevents it from coming back on you?

But as far as steel and material go.....I dont think you need to get too exotic....Wood is ALOT softer than even mild steel. Most logsplitter wedges are just mild steel and seem to do just fine

Good point on controlling the pulled/sheared tree. If pulling a larger tree I always push on the tree and lean it away from the tractor before dislodging the root ball from the ground.

I built my puller from mild steel. The jaw teeth haven't distorted at all.

 

[BnRidge]

Try shearing something cosssways on a 20ton log splitter. Should give a rough approximation.
The puller would have a smaller cylinder, but more mechanical advantage. Add a sharp insert on one side to cut with.

 

[Vigo327]

I say just wait to run it before thinking too hard on how to change it. You might decide you dont even care to have a shear.

I think in general its preferable to use the puller to push the tree all around and break most of the roots below ground and pull it up, vs shearing it above ground and then having to deal with a stump. You spend a little extra time up front to save a lot of time later. I guess the exception would be if you owned both a shear and a stump grinder, but that still seems like more work than just using the tree puller and backfilling.

 

[zzvyb6]

I say just wait to run it before thinking too hard on how to change it. You might decide you dont even care to have a shear.

I think in general its preferable to use the puller to push the tree all around and break most of the roots below ground and pull it up, vs shearing it above ground and then having to deal with a stump. You spend a little extra time up front to save a lot of time later. I guess the exception would be if you owned both a shear and a stump grinder, but that still seems like more work than just using the tree puller and backfilling.

I agree 100% based on your assessment and also that of others. Here is the outcome: I have an 80 loader and easily converted it to the JD Hook & Pin Quick Attach system. Then I acquired a 7' snow pusher, forks, changed the bucket over, adapted a hydraulic motorized PH digger, and even rigged up a truck snow plow to the QA plate on the loader arms. BTW: I'm using a Summit 3rd Function diverter slung off

the tractor frame instead of the loader. This means I have selectable 3rd function options with the loader off for other applications

 

[ovrszd]

I agree 100% based on your assessment and also that of others. Here is the outcome: I have an 80 loader and easily converted it to the JD Hook & Pin Quick Attach system. Then I acquired a 7' snow pusher, forks, changed the bucket over, adapted a hydraulic motorized PH digger, and even rigged up a truck snow plow to the QA plate on the loader arms. BTW: I'm using a Summit 3rd Function diverter slung offView attachment 777042 the tractor frame instead of the loader. This means I have selectable 3rd function options with the loader off for other applications

Did you build your puller? Very nice!!!

 

[zzvyb6]

Did you build your puller? Very nice!!!

No way ! Titan. On sale. Came in 4 days. Was advertised as "Free Shipping", but was charged $75 for Freight Service because of it's size & weight. Good thing I had forks because there is no way a semi-truck could make it down my road and turn around. Picked it up at the school nearby.

 

[Xfaxman]

The idea is to sharpen 1/2 of one side of the jaws nearest the hinge to get a shear action there. I can still grip with the far jaw teeth. Yes or No ?

What are you wanting to shear?

It would not shear anything very big in diameter:

And then you need to remove the stump.

 

[ovrszd]

No way ! Titan. On sale. Came in 4 days. Was advertised as "Free Shipping", but was charged $75 for Freight Service because of it's size & weight. Good thing I had forks because there is no way a semi-truck could make it down my road and turn around. Picked it up at the school nearby.

Very nice!!!

I built mine. It's not nearly as pretty but seems to function okay. I broke a hydraulic hose fitting at the cylinder once. You'll need to be cautious with yours the way they are plumbed. Thanks for the pic.

 

[zzvyb6]

What are you wanting to shear?

It would not shear anything very big in diameter:

View attachment 777122
And then you need to remove the stump.

Mostly scrub honeysuckle, grape vines, deaf ash 1" in diameter. It's advertised as a tree puller, so roots and tree, no stumps hopefully. I'll probably reroute the return hose connection. BTW I do have a nice collection of Stihl saws if you are worried that this won't get the job done. A log chain and a running start... Maybe it can also serve as a tire bead breaker. Trespasser may want to take notice, too.

 

[ovrszd]

Mostly scrub honeysuckle, grape vines, deaf ash 1" in diameter. It's advertised as a tree puller, so roots and tree, no stumps hopefully. I'll probably reroute the return hose connection. BTW I do have a nice collection of Stihl saws if you are worried that this won't get the job done. A log chain and a running start... Maybe it can also serve as a tire bead breaker. Trespasser may want to take notice, too.

In my area, tree pullers are most effective the first time frost leaves the ground in the Spring. That's when the roots are least attached to the dirt around them. You can pull some massive trees during that time. And the small stuff doesn't just break off when you grip it.

 

[zzvyb6]

In my area, tree pullers are most effective the first time frost leaves the ground in the Spring. That's when the roots are least attached to the dirt around them. You can pull some massive trees during that time. And the small stuff doesn't just break off when you grip it.

that's good to know. The need for this is driven by the bunches of annoying thorn bushes and wild rose bushes at my fence lines which make for a dreadful fencing job. Plus I want more visibility to the road.