TSC paint sucks

[LD1]

There was another thread recently about majic paint from tsc, but it don't do justice.

Now I am not a professional painter, but have shot a lot of paint. Rustoleum, bps, valspar, Coronado, etc. Majic is the absolute worst I have ever used.

As mentioned in the other thread, there was about 1.5 inches of solids at the bottom of the rusty brown primer. But I can live with that.

It is impossible to paint sheet metal with this primer in one coat. If you put just enough on for good coverage of the metal, tons of runs.

Same with the enamel. IH red over the reddish brown primer, only enough to cover, and runs everywhere. Have to do very light tack coat, wait 15 min or so, then cover. PITA.

I was out and about today and went to tsc for some odds and ends. Got a can of majic primer. Rattle can. Used to to touch up a few bare spots from sanding out other runs. What a mess. Caused the base layers to crack.:mur: so I had to dirty the can up for a few shots of primer...

Clearly they went to the lowest bidder. But I wish they would go back to valspar. That stuff was good...

 

[ajmuller]

I gave up on all of that type of paint. I lay down epoxy primer followed by either base coat / clear or single stage. Lasts forever and resistant to practically everything. If you put the hardener in the Majic paints you have to deal with the same ISOs anyway, why not get a good finish.

 

[LD1]

The valspar they used to carry gave a really good finish. And with hardener, as resistant to anything or any fluid a tractor would see. And at $25 or so a gallon, I had no complaints and saw no reason to spend lots of $$$ for epoxy or urethane. And still don't. I don't need an automotive quality finish on tractor. Good enamel with gardener is fine. But this ain't good enamel

 

[daugen]

I have had great success with Valspar from TSC on a properly cleaned and primed surface, either bare metal or with prior paint. In fact, that was a reason to go to TSC....bummer. The IH Red Valspar is amazingly durable; I know sadly too well when I oversprayed it on my newly tiled workshop floor. The IH Red has held up well outdoors also.

My fallback is Rustoleum on white or black. Yes I know I could paint my 1968 Cub Cadet with modern emergency yellow paint, but I really do want the oem look. Boy am I glad I bought a bunch of that Valspar, which I am slowly using, and doing my best not to get CC yellow on the same floor. The prior owner used hardware store yellow...see the pic...at least he prepped the surface decently because it's pretty solid. I'll prime anyway.

I wonder why the parting of ways of TSC and Valspar? Just for a better margin? ??Maybe not.

 

[k0ua]

Sorry to hear about this... Yes the valspar worked well

 

[LD1]

I painted lots of things with the valspar. My bushhog 306 was painted with IH red valspar from tsc. Great paint.

Anyone else have similar experience with this new majic paint

 

[SPIKER]

Didn't know they Switched, (was thinking about painting my dump trailer again.) It was painted in 2002 with the TSC Tractor & implement paint 30 something bucks for paint thinner and hardener & had lasted real well. The Gravel getting dumped into it has gone and scratched it up some and rust is starting so it lasted a good 10 years with the first 4 or 5 hauling 200 or more yards of wet creek run from sand to 5lb + square bedrock. It didnt even rust much until I left it set all summer with a load of mulch in it :/

Mark

 

[ajmuller]

The valspar they used to carry gave a really good finish. And with hardener, as resistant to anything or any fluid a tractor would see. And at $25 or so a gallon, I had no complaints and saw no reason to spend lots of $$$ for epoxy or urethane. And still don't. I don't need an automotive quality finish on tractor. Good enamel with gardener is fine. But this ain't good enamel

Yeah, I get the expense thing. Much more expensive in general. The good news is that I get to practice my skills for my car hobby.

 

[tad84pole]

Hi, Six months ago I used the Majic Kubota orange to spray a box scraper and It took a over a week to harden (I thinned it with acetone, probably wrong). I guess I should have used the hardener and added another $15 to the cost. Since then, I welded on more steel to the box scrapers side plates making them stronger. I brush painted and again its taken about 10 days to harden. I hope its environmentally friendly but this is ridiculous.

 

[Luckyrosco]

I was just wondering if you stirred or shook the paint before use. Those soilds that are at the bottom of the can is normally the pigment and binders. If you didn't stir the paint to redisolve the soilds, then you "painted" with the thinner that is put in the can. With aerosol cans, you have to shake them for at least 10 minutes (after the marble starts rattling) before use and every few minutes during use.

I agree Valspar is a very good brand and it's easy to use. Especially the automotive brand. PPG, BASF and Dupont all make great paint. With PPG and Valspar being two of the best.

 

[daugen]

I was just wondering if you stirred or shook the paint before use. Those soilds that are at the bottom of the can is normally the pigment and binders. If you didn't stir the paint to redisolve the soilds, then you "painted" with the thinner that is put in the can. With aerosol cans, you have to shake them for at least 10 minutes (after the marble starts rattling) before use and every few minutes during use.

I agree Valspar is a very good brand and it's easy to use. Especially the automotive brand. PPG, BASF and Dupont all make great paint. With PPG and Valspar being two of the best.

:welcome:
I work pretty much entirely with rattle cans, which I shake until my arm hurts.
The oem Gravely paint today is terrible, thin and watery, at twelve bucks a can. What a rip.
I have no idea who makes it. But it's such an odd orangey red shade that I'm kind of stuck with oem paint.

 

[LD1]

Yes everything was mixed well.

 

[ray66v]

You don't have to go right from the bottom of the barrel, to expensive epoxies and urethane's. There are lots of low end automotive or fleet products you can use, that will allow you to move up greatly in quality, without spending a lot more money. You just need to find if you have a good local supplier.

 

[daugen]

your local Napa has auto grade paint and can often special order certain colors.
Not sure what they will charge for that though, I stopped going to my local one they were so expensive without
a commercial discount.

I agree with Ray, particularly if your main desire is durability, not a show tractor finish. Which it unlikely had in the first place... For me, it's all in the prep, and I know that is a timeworn issue. Today's one part enamels sprayed over a well prepped and primed surface will really do a nice job. But if you want to dazzle with your finish, you may have to spend well over a hundred bucks a gallon to get there.

We have a car painting franchise near us, Earl Scheib, I think they are still around, and they are always offering a half off paint job for two or three hundred bucks. And boy they look shiny coming out. And one year later they are peeling and flaking off, sometimes in large sheets. There are tons of cars around here peeling away and you just know it was a cheap paint job. No prep. Prep is costly, and you sure won't get much for three hundred bucks.

This is the long way around of saying if you prep well, a less costly paint should work very well. I owned an old boat and did a fair amount of painting over aluminum and fiberglass. I sanded the fully aluminum entrance doors down to a super clean finish, put etching primer on, and then topcoated with three coats of rattle can Rustoleum Commercial silver paint. Absolutely looked like new. And five years later, even in salt water use, not one bubble on those doors, and I was just waiting for them to start. The quotes I got for commercial painting of the doors were staggering. But then it was a boat.
But it proved to me with my own eyes that top quality rattle can paint really will last.

 

[LD1]

Prep certainly isnt the issue. Bare clean metal is what the primer was shot over. The parts that would fit, were sand blasted, others were stripped with a wire wheel and/or fibratex strip disc.

I know better quality paints exist in the sub-$30 a gallon range. I have been using them for years. TSC valspar tractor and truck paint was one of them.

I (wrongfully) assumed that this new Majic paint they carry would be of similar quality.

No I am not looking for show condition. Just looking to be able to spray in 1 coat and be done like the valspar I am used to.

So now after spending hours this morning sanding out runs I shot some more. Tack coat, wait ~20 minutes, top coat. Still have a few runs now:mur: Trying to dress them out with a brush, let dry a few hours, and touch up with the spray. This paint is just flat worthless IMO. What is left of it will get set aside for things like painting the undersides of mower decks and such where runs are of no concern.

 

[LD1]

Well I finally got around to googling about majic paint to see if it is possible that I am doing something wrong.

NOTHING but TERRIBLE reviews. Several fourms, wheelhorse forum, garage journal, ytmag, etc. Seems everyone hates the new paint, and loved the old valspar as I did.

Same issues I am having, poor coverage, runs and drips, etc.

I will go elsewhere next time for paint. And possibly even online to find the valspar stuff. And I will certainly read reviews if I ever get a different brand paint again.

 

[tad84pole]

Hi, I just wanted to thank Luckyrosco, who in post #10 suggested stirring the paint better. I got out the electric drill and stirred the paint with a stirring tool in that for about 7min. , then applied another coat of paint to my box scrapper. It dried much much better this time--fairly hard the next morning. Previously, I had stirred the paint with a stick by hand, apparently, that wasn't effective in getting the drying agents mixed up. Thanks, Luckyrosco!!:thumbsup:

 

[PsRumors]

This summer I used some of the Majic rattle can paint to repaint an Omni hitch that was originally nH blue. With it sitting out in the hot GA sun I was able to get good thick coats and it turned out much better than I thought it would and has stood up well.

This fall I sprayed a couple of wheel weights with the Majic rattle can and the stuff was crap, didn't stick very well and ran.

Both pieces were prepped well but the environment (temp) made the difference.

Everything at TsC seems to be getting of poorer and poorer quality.

 

[Ford850]

When a new Rural King store opened close to me, I shopped the paint isle, figuring they would also carry the Valspar brand like TSC does. I was disappointed to only find the Majic brand, and not nearly the color selection. All sorts of goofy colors, but none that fit my needs. So a couple weeks later when I was at TSC I planned to restock my Valspar supply for various projects. I was shocked to find they dropped Valspar and only sell Majic now. No colors even close to the Valspar classics, so touch up after repairs is not possible. I liked the Valspar paint, and brushed it on many projects for a good durable finish.
The past couple projects I switched to Rustoleum Professional, and used gloss black. It is VERY thick with a lot of pigment. It covers better than any paint I have used, and seems durable so far. At least touch ups will be easier to match now.

 

[k0ua]

here it is at Amazon.com

Valspar (5339-27-6PK) New Kubota Orange Tractor and Implement Spray Paint - 12 oz., (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive