TSC paint sucks

[mikehaugen]

Though I don't necessarily like the paint, I have always liked the nozzles on the krylon rattle cans.

 

[DJ54]

I did a search, and was surprised to see that Lowes carries it, although it does need to be ordered. http://www.lowes.com/pd_254998-4-018.4431-01.007_0__?productId=3407922&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-PaintPrimer-_-3407922&CAWELAID=1024172165&kpid=3407922+&"cagpspn=pla"

But then when I check the box at the right for store pickup, it says unavailable... So either you can only get it at select stores, or it's not on the shelf, and does need to be ordered. Might be worth a call to check it out.

And also might be worth sending an email, or make a call directly to TSC HQ, and let them know your feelings. I've never used the Majic implement enamel, but was really never fond of their other products.

 

[LD1]

Ray66:

What rattle cans did you use for that repair?

I have yet to find anything in a one-part rattle can that resists gasoline. Other than marginal results with high heat stuff after its baked on.

 

[murphy1244]

I painted a ole Ford F-100 with 17 cans of Safety White. Lasted about 2 years.

 

[k0ua]

I painted a ole Ford F-100 with 17 cans of Safety White. Lasted about 2 years.

That is about a year longer than an Earl Schieb paint job.

 

[Midniteoyl]

If you do the Schieb $99 paint, YOU need to do all the prior prep work. They will simply wipe it down and shoot.

 

[ray66v]

Ray66:

What rattle cans did you use for that repair?

I have yet to find anything in a one-part rattle can that resists gasoline. Other than marginal results with high heat stuff after its baked on.

All one part finishes are soluiable, which means they will soften if you use strong solvents on them, or spill gasoline on them. That is the major disadvantage to them.

The products I used were no different.

You can't really bake on the finishes we use outside of the factories, you are really only force drying them. This allows them to reach full hardness sooner, by driving out the solvents. But, really doesn't do much to make them harder or better in the long run.

 

[Jasonc87]

Well from all the compliments in this thread I think ill stay away from the new TSC paint.. Ive always used rustoleum if I can find a comprisable color. Seems to take a while to dry and chalks up in the sun, but if I wanted a perfect finish I'd pay someone else to do it... Just my feelings.

 

[bindian]

I used Majic paint, catylist, and hardener to paint my 9 foot offset disc. No runs or drips. It was hard enough to install the disc gangs the day after painting. It was the first large non aviation paint job I have done and I liked the results. I did have a lot of overspray.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/270878-amco-offset-disc-7.html
hugs, Brandi

 

[Ford850]

I used Majic paint, catylist, and hardener to paint my 9 foot offset disc. No runs or drips. It was hard enough to install the disc gangs the day after painting. It was the first large non aviation paint job I have done and I liked the results. I did have a lot of overspray.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/270878-amco-offset-disc-7.html
hugs, Brandi

That was a nice thread. Great job on the disc! Maybe I missed it in that other thread, but what spray gun did you use?
After looking at your results from using both the spray cans and the gallon in a sprayer, I might try to pick new colors and move to the Majic paint. My biggest gripe is that they don't have the OEM colors, both old and new, like Valspar. Thanks.

 

[LD1]

What did you use for the catalyst? I just used the paint, hardener (mixed a tad stronger than recommended), and thinner.

It didnt look bad, but how textured was the surface you painted? I didnt have any runs painting the cast iron pieces at all. But the smooth stripped sheet metal was a different story. And did you do it all in one coat?

Maybe they changed something over the last 8 months too???

It did dry quickly too as you say. I shot paint in the evening, and was able to handle parts next morning. No tack at all, but still soft enough it was easily damaged so Extra care had to be used.

I was finally able to get a decent looking finish, using a little more hardener to dry quicker, and using lighter coats. But for $25-$30 per gallon, and knowing better stuff exists for the same money (valspar or BPS), I wont use majic again. Not saying one cant make it work. but if you had the option to buy HF tools or Snap-on for the same price, what would you choose?

 

[hr3]

I was in line at TS today and the guy in front of me was buying some paint,, The clerk asked the guy his age,, lol,, he came unglued almost walked out,, She said it was company policy but he still complained like crazy.. Finely he told her 1923 ..

 

[ray66v]

What did you use for the catalyst? I just used the paint, hardener (mixed a tad stronger than recommended), and thinner.

Lots of misconceptions out there about catalysts, and hardeners.

Rule #1 is, NEVER put more in than the prescribed amount of hardener. Once you go beyond a certain point, it has the reverse effect. And it will actually cause the paint to stay soft. Always put in the prescribed amount as closely as possible. The amount is prescribed for a reason. We mixed by weight with digital scales, and measured everything down to the last gram.

The molecules in the paint form a link with the molecules in the hardener. If you have too many molecules of paint, or too many molecules of hardener, it does not work as well as the correct ratio.

The "hardener" really does not make this kind of paint harder. It causes a chemical reaction that makes the resin suspending the pigments better, which improves adhesion, and gloss retention.

Hardener does make this kind of paint hard faster, that and the increase in adhesion, gives the illusion of it being harder.

Using a primer designed to have hardener, under paint with hardener provides additional adhesion, because those molecules in the primer are designed to then be able to link with the molecules in the paint. This helps keep the finish coat from chipping off.

Full cure time with industrial enamel can be many months, this is because of the low quality of the resins, and the solvents used, so anything that speeds that up is a blessing. Keep in mind, the sun is only too happy to help with that.

If I baked industrial enamel with no hardener, in the spray booth at 175 degrees for about 3 hours, once cooled, it is very hard. This is because the heat forces the trapped solvents that keep it from curing out. Some of those solvents may never escape if the paint is not applied properly, and left to air day.

 

[bindian]

That was a nice thread. Great job on the disc! Maybe I missed it in that other thread, but what spray gun did you use?
After looking at your results from using both the spray cans and the gallon in a sprayer, I might try to pick new colors and move to the Majic paint. My biggest gripe is that they don't have the OEM colors, both old and new, like Valspar. Thanks.

Ford850,
Thanks! I used the $20 HF siphon gun. Worked great. Had a leak I couldn't stop. I took it apart and cleaned it real good after painting, but ended up trashing it as I could not stop the leak at the needle nut. I would buy one again for my next project.

I found the Majic color IH Red matched my equipment the best. My new dual tandem trailer came new painted with Valspar, which was close to my Mahindra's red and my Dodge dually's red.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

What did you use for the catalyst? I just used the paint, hardener (mixed a tad stronger than recommended), and thinner.

It didnt look bad, but how textured was the surface you painted? I didnt have any runs painting the cast iron pieces at all. But the smooth stripped sheet metal was a different story. And did you do it all in one coat?

Maybe they changed something over the last 8 months too???

It did dry quickly too as you say. I shot paint in the evening, and was able to handle parts next morning. No tack at all, but still soft enough it was easily damaged so Extra care had to be used.

I was finally able to get a decent looking finish, using a little more hardener to dry quicker, and using lighter coats. But for $25-$30 per gallon, and knowing better stuff exists for the same money (valspar or BPS), I wont use majic again. Not saying one cant make it work. but if you had the option to buy HF tools or Snap-on for the same price, what would you choose?

I used Majic reducer and hardener in the paint. I measured carefully to the directions on the cans. I painted over the JD green that was on the disc when I bought it. Smooth surfaces stayed smooth. It only needed one coat. But I put two heavy coats on, knowing the abuse disc get going all day non stop. No runs at all even shooting overhead.

I would venture to guess painting in the evening and using thinner along with too much hardener messed your finish up. Humidity is higher in the evening and at night.

What manufacturer I buy tools from depends on what I want out of that tool. Will I heat it and bend it and grind on it, or use it with kid gloves on? Will I be using it once or every day? The right tool for the right job and Majic paint was right for me. That and the fact TSC had everything I needed. I don't remember others paints in stock with the color I wanted and all the components in stock. I won't even buy Snap On if it isn't on the truck.
hugs, Brandi

 

[LD1]

I would venture to guess painting in the evening and using thinner along with too much hardener messed your finish up. Humidity is higher in the evening and at night.

Was painting inside a 75 degree wood heated shop, so I doubt humidity had anything to do with it.

Thinner is the same thing as their reducer. IT is impossible to spray without thinning some.

And I had the worst runs when mixing as prescribed. It was only when I added MORE hardener that the issues got way better.

Their suggestions for mixing the hardener were 16:1. So I mixed 1 pint of paint with 1 TBSP (1/2 ounce), and just enough thinner for the desired viscosity to properly atomize the paint. Results sucked. So with experimentation, I had MUCH better results mixing about an extra TBSP of hardener. My mix ratio was closer to 10:1

Maybe it is possible that this paint is really picky and you need the absolute best conditions and perfect mixture to make it work??? But the point I am making is, using valspar, BPS and others, never had to worry about a thing. And after reading pleanty of negative reviews on other forums saying basically the same thing I am...........tells me it isnt just me.

Sounds like you did everything right and had perfect conditions and mixture. But from all the reading I have done, people having those good results with Majic are very few and far between.

 

[ray66v]

When spraying, using the least amount of reducer you can use, and still get it to spray well, is the golden rule.

Thin coats will spray well, but the excessive amounts of solvents will usually increase drying time, and curing time, as well as reduce the quality of the finished product.

A gravity feed, pressure feed, or airless system is better for heavy paints like this. Because they allow you to use less reducer than a siphon gun.

The other good rule to follow is, to avoid over applying heavy coats in a back to back manor, without waiting long enough between them. Too heavy, too fast can trap solvents inside the film. That can also lead to loss of gloss, and a softer finish.

 

[RobertBrown]

Thanks for the reveiw, I will make a note of it.

 

[LD1]

I am using a gravity gun, and follow that golden rule. Only enough thinner to get it through the gun properly atomized.

With mixing a pint of paint, and just about two tablespoons of hardener, the thinner is only about 2-3 tablespoons as well.

 

[sixdogs]

The best deal in quality paint is straight from the dealer. Tractor makers have a vested interest is having their tractors, etc look great and hold high resale so they give a good deal on paint for those ends. The paint does cost a little more but is a step up in quality at a very modest price.

Most TSC type paints are alkyd enamel technology of eons ago while most manufacturer paint today is acrylic enamel and much more glossy and durable. IH red, for example, sprays like a dream and I have a piece of it sitting outside for several years now and it doesn't look appreciably different than when I sprayed it.

Kubota paint is another excellent example with their spectacular quality paint. Theirs is sort of expensive but is quality on steroids. Why buy a $25,000 tractor and save $10 bucks on paint? How about skipping an oil change it likely doesn't need and use it for paint?

Just my two cents here since I paint a lot of stuff and have used most paints.

Oh, while I'm at it, those who are spraying hardener without an external supplied air system may be doing irreparable damage to their lungs even with one use. Isocyanates are killers that pass right though the best of filters and nothing stops it other than an external air system. I can't believe it is sold on the shelf at TSC without a stronger warning. Google it.