Walker's F Series Thread

   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Found a pack of 4 new ones on ebay for $118, they should be here this weekend. That is about the price I paid for new ones from a local dealer in 2016ish. Hopefully 4 of the right parts show up this weekend :)

The 3d parts have already been modified, I added some gussets, I go back on shift tomorrow so it'll be a week or so before I cut any parts out.
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I just finished cutting the parts out... now it's time for a test fit and then I'll weld it all up!
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Looks like it'll work...
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread #24  
Looks very good - please keep us posted!
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Getting closer, limited time to work on this, helping neighbors clean up tornado damage. Worked the heck out of my BX today demoing a privacy fence that got laid over by the storm. The trailer next to these people's house got blown away, but the trampoline was still there, I wouldn't of believed it if I hadn't of seen it.

I should have the seat on tonight, will take it for a test drove before paint.
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Got it together for a test, works just as planned. I did have to do one field modification, the front of the seat rails wouldn't fit between the supports. Never trust design engineers.... wait that was me!

Anyways, some quick work with the cut off wheel and an adjustment to the front brackets to have a slight angle and I was back in business.

The tolerances were all quite close, I'm about 1/8" from the ROPs and an 1/8" from the plastic controls housing.
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Now I'm getting to the fluids... the coolant was pretty nasty, I doubt it's the original but you all can weigh in with opinions. Here is a pic:
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#28  
This can't be good, here is what it looks like after settling a few hours. I am going to flush clean water through it twice, operating for 15 to 20 minutes between each flush, then add coolant flush to the next fill up. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread #29  
Yeah that’s nasty. Drain & flush repeatedly.

I just drained my big Massey and refilled with the new pink AF. It doesn’t cause cavitation like the green.
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Thanks! I drained and refilled about 3 times, mowing for about 15 minutes in between, and then added cleaner and ran for about 30 minutes mowing.

The fluid that settled had a lot of residue. Almost like sand in it. My brother thinks it may be stop-leak?

I drained and refilled twice and still have some nasty slime in the radiator. Hopefully you can tell in the pics. I'm guessing I'll have to do another round with the cleaner, maybe run it for several hours working it hard. I am going to clean the radiator fins real well and put a new water pump and hoses on and clean everything up while I'm there.
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread #31  
Might want to switch to pink. I’m told the green causes cavitation.
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Time for a deep clean while i have the radiator and hood out of the way...
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#33  
My little helpers showed up, have to add thier pic:
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#34  
It definitely needed it:
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread #35  
In case you are planning to keep this mower for long time I would recommend checking out the frame area in-behind the fuel tank and especially behind the battery tray support.

Perfect places for moist grass clippings to collect.
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread #36  
   / Walker's F Series Thread
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Arto, I cleaned behind the battery and fuel tank areas the best I could, and yes both sides were packed with old grass. Luckily there are not any major rust problems in those areas. The battery tray has surface rust and may get repainted during future winter maintenance.

I drained the right side rear axle housing and the main housing, the fluid out of both was a little milky and very dark, good thing I changed it. The left side remains, I stripped the Allen head drain plug so will be ordering new ones for both sides. How I'll get the stripped one out... I'm not 100% sure.

I replaced the water pump with a cheap one from ebay, I hope I don't regret that decision in the future. It was a quick and easy job with the hood, radiator and the radiator shroud all already out of the way. The hoses seem to be in good shape so I am reusing them.

I relocated the hood handle to the center front. The hood isn't making full contact on the left side where the seal contacts, the whole thing is canted a little and I believe it may have to do with being opened from the same side many times. Opening from the center doesn't cause any offset stress.
 

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   / Walker's F Series Thread #38  
Arto, I cleaned behind the battery and fuel tank areas the best I could, and yes both sides were packed with old grass. Luckily there are not any major rust problems in those areas. The battery tray has surface rust and may get repainted during future winter maintenance.

I drained the right side rear axle housing and the main housing, the fluid out of both was a little milky and very dark, good thing I changed it. The left side remains, I stripped the Allen head drain plug so will be ordering new ones for both sides. How I'll get the stripped one out... I'm not 100% sure.

I replaced the water pump with a cheap one from ebay, I hope I don't regret that decision in the future. It was a quick and easy job with the hood, radiator and the radiator shroud all already out of the way. The hoses seem to be in good shape so I am reusing them.

I relocated the hood handle to the center front. The hood isn't making full contact on the left side where the seal contacts, the whole thing is canted a little and I believe it may have to do with being opened from the same side many times. Opening from the center doesn't cause any offset stress.
Better start a new thread for that one. They tend to get long, such as 2094 posts. :LOL:

 
   / Walker's F Series Thread #39  
Arto, I cleaned behind the battery and fuel tank areas the best I could, and yes both sides were packed with old grass. Luckily there are not any major rust problems in those areas. The battery tray has surface rust and may get repainted during future winter maintenance.

I drained the right side rear axle housing and the main housing, the fluid out of both was a little milky and very dark, good thing I changed it. The left side remains, I stripped the Allen head drain plug so will be ordering new ones for both sides. How I'll get the stripped one out... I'm not 100% sure.

I replaced the water pump with a cheap one from ebay, I hope I don't regret that decision in the future. It was a quick and easy job with the hood, radiator and the radiator shroud all already out of the way. The hoses seem to be in good shape so I am reusing them.

I relocated the hood handle to the center front. The hood isn't making full contact on the left side where the seal contacts, the whole thing is canted a little and I believe it may have to do with being opened from the same side many times. Opening from the center doesn't cause any offset stress.

Walker,
I ended up removing the F3060 battery tray & made a completely new tray out of little thicker steel and after painting applied spray-on truck bed coating.
The new tray is close to identical of original, except it can be unbolted in future if needed.

Looks like you drained out some pretty nasty looking oil from the rear axle - the rear axle is fairly easy to remove, in case you need better access to the stuck drain bolt.
 
   / Walker's F Series Thread #40  
I drained the right side rear axle housing and the main housing, the fluid out of both was a little milky and very dark, good thing I changed it. The left side remains, I stripped the Allen head drain plug so will be ordering new ones for both sides. How I'll get the stripped one out... I'm not 100% sure.

I had the same problem. Find a Torx bit that almost fits, then drive it in with a hammer. I apologize that I don't remember what size Torx it was. It worked like a charm. I almost didn't bother to replace it with a new one, but did replace it anyway.
 

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