What can you expect from a plasma cutter?

[slowzuki]

I need to get some gouging tips for mine, I think for my model though you can fry the gouging tip if you short it where the drag tip is insulated.

On thin stock it is nice due to the low heat and not making a blobby mess like when using the too big torch tip. On thick stock you can weld without dressing or minimal dressing with the grinder. I do oxy torch big stuff too but I hate that 7" grinder that always follows! Makes my arms numb!

If I had to do it over again, you need to use a torch more than 40 hrs a year to be even close to NEEDING a P-C. It just costs too much otherwise. The other issue is electrical, mine needs 50 amps @ 220V, not just 30 like a normal buzz box welder.

 

[leaddog]

The templates have to be non-conductive so I have used wood and hardboard. I have made some that are smaller and some larger depending on the part. The i-torch uses a standoff tip or drag tip so it depends on what you are doing. The t/d cutmaster 81 is only 300 or so more than the cutmaster51 and will do so much more that it is worth it to go larger.
The circle attachment comes with a torch holder that uses rollors and that makes it even easier to follow a straight line.
In my research I found only good things and no bad feedback on the t/d and the price was cheaper. Everyone was talking about the i-torch that comes with it. It has several advantages ,such as being able to add extentions onto the length of cord, unhooking and hooking up another torch with just a push and turn, ease of changing consumables, and low cost of consumables.
When I got mine it was one of the first ones out so it was the lattest tech. out there and yes it is a very powerful tool.
hope I helped
Leaddog

 

[lmiller]

Just saw your post, I haven't read too far in the thread yet, but here's my .02$

Like Brent, I have a hypertherm and he is right on about capacity and quality of cut.

I have used other models, consumables are the tip and the "high temp resistant" cone behind it. I have used Miller models that were ceramic and had a really short lifespan, set it down too hard or drop it off the table and it shatters. Hypertherm uses fibreglass for this part and it stands up fine. Don't know if Miller has changed their design, just beware of ceramic.

The tips also wear fast if you are pushing the capacity.

I have used plywood templates, usually 1/4" luaun, which lasts quite a while, easily a dozen cuts if you dampen it.

You will be astounded at the ease of cutting, and the small amount of heat.

Oh and I use either a light green face shield, similar to a green version of the clear full face grinding shield we have all used or sunglasses /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Lou

 

[lmiller]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The templates have to be non-conductive so I have used wood and hardboard.
)</font>

Metal templates work fine with the units I have worked with, I often use a scrap of angle to cut straight lines. A short cutoof of pipe works well to cut a rough large hole, I have used 1-1/4" pipe to cut a 1" hole, just cut a short section and weld on a handle to clamp it down to the work.
On my hypertherm there is spot just outside the tip which rests nicely on a +/- 1/4" template piece and makes a cut about 1/8" from the edge of the template.

Lou

 

[PineRidge]

All very informative stuff here gentlemen. I have always though that plasma cutters were cumbersome, heavy, and for big shop use only. You guys are now proving my thoughts altogether wrong, as you make plasma cutting sound far easier than stick welding.

TC-40D SS web pictures click here

 

[Cliff_Johns]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All very informative stuff here gentlemen. I have always though that plasma cutters were cumbersome, heavy, and for big shop use only. )</font>

Yes and now, when I figure out how much getting into welding will cost me, I have to add in $1500 for a plasma cutter to the $800 for the MIG welder. After all, if it's worth doing . . . /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cliff

 

[Taylortractornut]

When I was alot younger in the late 80's dad towed home a plasma torch and matched Gensetfor the welding foreman that worked on his dirt crew. It had a big Cat engine and was on a tandem trailer. The torch was bigger than my Smith long reach Demo head torch a big 2 handed deal and the hose was heavy. They used it on rail road tracks they were tearing out. You had a big shiny foundry suit and the hoses were huge and superheavy. THis thingonly cut 2 inches thick. Now one capable of cutting 1.5 inches of metal takes 220 volts and the whole unit weighs in at 60 pounds.

 

[johnbilt]

Hi

I have a Hypertherm 1000. I experimented with several models and brands before deciding on the H1000. It will cut 3/8" and 1/2" very well.

It is rated for 3/4" at 60A output, but specs tend to be exaggerated for most machines. If you are planning on cutting 1/2" often, and you want to cut smooth at a decent rate, I would recommend going to the larger machine. More bucks though. Try centralwelding.com - great website.

John

I have used hardboard for a template. It works fine.

 

[40Kchicks]

A couple of years ago I bought an ESAB multimaster 260 mig/arc/tig welder. I was so impressed by this machine that I bought a ESAB 550 handy plasma torch. It’s a 35A machine rated 1/2cut 5/8 sever but I don’t use it for anything over 3/8. My plasma torch gets exponentially slower the thicker the material. What’s amazing is how small it is. If I remember right it only weighs about 30lbs and it’s smaller than a computer case. The consumables are kind of expensive but for thin metal you just can’t beat it. I paid about 1300 for mine brand new and for the stuff that I do it was worth it but I have a commercial application for it.

 

[GEB]

I've had my Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 50
for about 4 years now.
I mostly do 4X4 off-road mods (2nd income) Jeeps, custom
axles, lift kits, skidds......
I cut everything with this tool, only time I use the torch is
to bend someting or heat bolts, nuts.........
I also use not 1 but 3 quality air fliters for a clean air.
My cutter sits on the same 2 shelf cart as my wire welder,
it's called my Crash Cart /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I also have (9) 220v out-lets around the shop, so I can wheel
my crash cart anywhere needed with out a excord.
For me the P-cutter was money well spent!
So, if ya take a good heavy cart that will hold both machines
cut a hole in the top shelf for the gas tank, then it will sit on the bottom shelf, welder on top, cutter on the bottom.
Works real nice for me.
Gene