Who has put up a composite split rail fence?

[clovergamecock]

I am trying to find some prices on the net and best places to purchase the material for a 3 reail split rail fence. HomeDepot shows the 2 rail posts but not the 3 or the slats. Lowes doesn't show anything. Anybody have recomendations of where to buy from and how much posts and slats cost?

thanks
Wade

 

[tlbuser]

Might want to read this thread
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/100607-beer-budget-champagne-taste.html

 

[clovergamecock]

Hmmmm. Thanks for the thread link. I am wandering if I would be better off with some treated 4x4's and some 1x6 slats cut to fit then spray it white.. This is for abot 600 feet of fencing. on the front part of my horse pasture.


Wade

 

[BotaBigot]

Hmmmm. Thanks for the thread link. I am wandering if I would be better off with some treated 4x4's and some 1x6 slats cut to fit then spray it white.. This is for abot 600 feet of fencing. on the front part of my horse pasture.


Wade

I've put up both types of fence. I love split rail (it's easier to put up than a regular fence)...but not for horses. The wood shrinks over time and rails get loose. When horses rub fence, the rails sometimes come out, letting the horses out. If I had it to do over again, I would drive long deck screws thru each post into the rails to hold them. Lastly, split rail fences don't hold up as long.

I've had better luck with PT 4X4s (6X6 gate posts) and 1X6 rails with 1X4 battens on posts. I use deck screws instead of nails. Makes repairs easier. And I use white opaque stain rather than paint. When stain wears off, I just respray (no scraping peeling paint).

I try to get materials on sale, and I've generally found not much price difference per 8' section between the two types.

Just my experience, your mileage may vary...

 

[clovergamecock]

I've put up both types of fence. I love split rail (it's easier to put up than a regular fence)...but not for horses. The wood shrinks over time and rails get loose. When horses rub fence, the rails sometimes come out, letting the horses out. If I had it to do over again, I would drive long deck screws thru each post into the rails to hold them. Lastly, split rail fences don't hold up as long.

I've had better luck with PT 4X4s (6X6 gate posts) and 1X6 rails with 1X4 battens on posts. I use deck screws instead of nails. Makes repairs easier. And I use white opaque stain rather than paint. When stain wears off, I just respray (no scraping peeling paint).

I try to get materials on sale, and I've generally found not much price difference per 8' section between the two types.

Just my experience, your mileage may vary...

Thanks for the info! How far did you space your posts? What are 1x4 battens? The stain is a great idea also. I am only doing the split rail up near the house. the rest of the pasture will more than likely be T posts and box wire.
Thanks
Wade

 

[BotaBigot]

Thanks for the info! How far did you space your posts? What are 1x4 battens? The stain is a great idea also. I am only doing the split rail up near the house. the rest of the pasture will more than likely be T posts and box wire.
Thanks
Wade

Eight foot on-center, to take advantage of stock board length (rails) available at home centers. If you have a local sawmill, you could get 16' rough sawn rails and span two sections (don't start all rail runs on same post, stronger, and you can eliminate battens if you like). But I'm not fond of 'em, tend to warp a lot, and 16' lengths make it harder to follow "rolling" land contour.

The battens are used vertically on posts to cover the rail joints (and add some strength for those rubbing horses).

A "trick" I learned for split rail post spacing is to assemble a few sections flat on the ground before drilling post holes. Measure the assembled post center-to-center distance. Why? Because while they're supposed to be 8' on-center...sometimes a batch isn't, depending on who made 'em (ask me how I know)...

 

[clovergamecock]

Thanks for the info and the advice! I am going out today and price the material. I measured the area last night and it is 430'. This just encompasses the area in front and beside the house. the rest will pobably be T posts to start with. i am going to rent a one man auger next weekend. I would love to have an attatchment for the tractor but that is just to expensive right now.

Thanks
Wade

 

[LoneCowboy]

around here, most everyone uses 3 rail (or 2 rail, but usually 3 rail) western timber posts. (i.e. assembled like a split rail, but round 3 to 5" with tenon joints on the end). Strong, good for the horses (cuz it's round) and about the same price.

A PHD for your tractor is about $500
A one man auger rents for about $80 a day here
You'll spend more than that $500 renting it
Buy the PHD

 

[clovergamecock]

Thanks Brian. Maybe I can use your post and reasoning to convince the wife to let me go ahead and get a PHD....

Another couple of questions for ou guys.
1. If I am putting my posts 8' apart should the gate opening be the same width or should I go wide?
2. What is the recommended or most common height of a split rail. The posts that Lowes and HD have are 8' which is the shortest. How much of the post should go in the ground to acheive sturdiness and the desired height?
3. What should the rail spacing be from ground up?

Thanks
Wade

 

[BotaBigot]

Done the one-man auger thing. Hope you're a "hefty" guy. Works OK, unless you're in roots or rocks. You'll have bruised ribs...

430' is only 50+ holes, not that big a job...DEPENDING ON SOIL CONDITION (disclaimer). There was a time I would have tackled that with a rental or even clamshells, but now I'd rather be on a tractor seat. If you rent, you can save some time by marking holes ahead of time with a bag of lime and a dixie cup.

1. I use 8' on-center. Looks good w/rest of fence. Just have to fold in pickup mirrors. The wider the gate, the more sag. Split rail gates are kind of a pain to build. Need good diagonal bracing and hard to attach hardware.
2. I think 3-rail is nominal 48" to 54" at the top of the rail. I put mine about 3' in ground, depends on how much space you want between bottom rail and ground.
3. Whatever looks good to you.

Here's another split-rail "trick." Once you decide how much post is to be out of ground, take measurement (top down) and chalk/crayon post at ground line. Measure/mark all posts. Drill all holes slightly deeper than length of posts below mark. Drop posts in holes, assemble rails, go back and kick dirt into each hole to bring post up to ground line. Then fill/tamp each hole, and you're done...don't even need a level, plumb the fence by eye.