Workable Headlights

lakngulf · Jan 13, 2010

Thanks for clarifying ( and confusing me....ha). That is the pigtail that I thought was for the work light. If you have three lights off of it then that is great news. Also, there appears to be just one bullet connector plugged in. I am assuming your are grounding the lights elsewhere?

Do you know what circuit was used for your round work light?

jimmyj · Jan 13, 2010

Thanks for the tips. Very helpful Mousefield.

o2batsea · Jan 13, 2010

Here are pics of the adhesive lined shrink terminals I use.

These are from genuinedealz.com/Marine Electrical Supply/. They save time by combining the sealing and shrink wrap in one operation. Seals against corrosion.

Mousefield · Jan 13, 2010

I have a 2008 CK35 HST with Woods backhoe. The dealer put on the round work light, the conection is located on the left side as you are looking forward. I have to take the seat off the backhoe to try and take a picture.
The picture does not make it real clear as to were it is. Will try to get a better one tomorrow.

lakngulf · Jan 15, 2010

Mousefield said:
I have a 2008 CK35 HST with Woods backhoe. The dealer put on the round work light, the conection is located on the left side as you are looking forward.

Had a few minutes and did some exploring this morning. I have a 2006 CK30 and, indeed, did find the second connection that you mention. This wire is more directly under the SMV sign, and comes out of the plastic conduit as two bullet connections (one male and one female). And, as I have mentioned, under and to the right of the SMV sign I have a connection that has a funky attachment to it, that I have not found a mate for. I will probably make it into bullet connections.

My next step will be to play with fuses and determine what fuse controls which of these two connections. Based on all the information, I think I know, but will confirm.

lakngulf · Jan 15, 2010

More Update:

The pigtail under the SMV sign, to the right:
1. off when switch is off
2. on when switch is on
3. off when the customer use fuse is removed

The male/female bullet connection under SMV sign, center:
1. off when switch is off
2. off when just switch is on
3. on when front headlights are on

jimmyj · Jan 15, 2010

Very helpful. Thanks.

Hardacrefarm · Jan 17, 2010

Saw this post and wanted to ask you about when you drilled through your ROPS...
Could you tell after you drilled it how thick the ROPS wall material is?
I'm thinking about making a ROPS for my 8N, and since this is the type of item that NEEDS to be built right the first time (No second chances here after it gets used once!!), I'd like to know ahead of time how thick of steel is needed to be safe.
Thanks for your help!

jimmyj · Jan 17, 2010

lakngulf said:
More Update:

The pigtail under the SMV sign, to the right:
1. off when switch is off
2. on when switch is on
3. off when the customer use fuse is removed

The male/female bullet connection under SMV sign, center:
1. off when switch is off
2. off when just switch is on
3. on when front headlights are on

Using this info I changed my hookup yesterday. Much better I must say.

- I wired the two lights on the ROPS to the pigtail directly under the SMV sign.

- I added a single spot facing backwards just to the right of the SMV sign and wired it off the pigtail to the right of the SMV sign. I added an on off switch for it too.

- I also used heat shrink fittings, heat shrink tubing over spots where I did not have shrink fittings with dielectric grease in them. I don't have a heat gun yet but that will be easy.

I am very pleased with the results. Thanks all for your tips. NOTE: it was a heck of a lot nicer working yesterday as it was about 30 degrees F versus 4 or 5 the last time I took a crack at this.

Hardacrefarm, I'll measure the ROPS thickness today and post for you. It is not as thick as you may think, maybe 3/8" I'd guess.