Your last generator Maintenance Run

[90cummins]

I have a couple questions regarding the setup of the controls for the my DC generator when in auto mode.
It is set to turn on at 24.5 volts & off at 28 volts which is subject to change.
The run time is also undecided perhaps 1 hour minimum to allow the engine to warm up fully.
The question I have is the stop float & stop absorb setting.
The alternator is temperature compensated for higher charge voltage when cold versus warm meaning the max voltage is approximately 28v when warm.
The Powerhouse is insulated & ventilation is adjustable to control the interior temperature especially in cold weather which is important with an air cooled diesel.
I’m not sure what the float or absorb settings will do.
Attached is a photo of the generator triggers and configuration.
Any input here?
Thanks 90cummins

 

[90cummins]

I just finished transferring the control wiring to a larger board so I could tidy it up. First time I’ve built anything like this any suggestions?
90cummins

 

[Fallon]

I have a couple questions regarding the setup of the controls for the my DC generator when in auto mode.
It is set to turn on at 24.5 volts & off at 28 volts which is subject to change.
The run time is also undecided perhaps 1 hour minimum to allow the engine to warm up fully.
The question I have is the stop float & stop absorb setting.
The alternator is temperature compensated for higher charge voltage when cold versus warm meaning the max voltage is approximately 28v when warm.
The Powerhouse is insulated & ventilation is adjustable to control the interior temperature especially in cold weather which is important with an air cooled diesel.
I’m not sure what the float or absorb settings will do.
Attached is a photo of the generator triggers and configuration.
Any input here?
Thanks 90cummins

Battery Maintenance | Trojan Battery Company go down to table 2. Those are voltage thresholds for stages of charging.


Bulk or absorption is cramming most of the amps into the batteries.

Float is to maintain the battery at nearly full charge.

Equalize briefly overcharges the battery & causes it to off gas & mix up the electrolyte so it doesn't settle into different layers of different components.

Generally you want temp compensation measuring the batteries rather than the alternator. Tempature affects the chemistry for charging, not the performance of the alternator.

 

[90cummins]

After reading your response it makes sense to disable both the float & absorb settings because the inverter charger will go thru the bulk, absorb & float process when the utility power is restored.
This forum is a huge knowledge resource!
Thank you.
90cummins

 

[Patrick Herd]

Agree with Fallon, you want the generator to only do the bulk charging as the grid will take care of the finer battery management.
To go a bit further, I think a lot of those settings will have minimal effect anyway as I believe they're more for when the controller is talking to the schneider inverter and telling it what voltage to charge at.

In your situation, a start up and shut down voltage with a minimum run time is likely perfect. I can't remember whether you have temperature controlled ventilation fans yet or not? Maintaining the batteries at 18 to 20c whenever they're doing work or being absorption charged will help them live a long life.

 

[90cummins]

I agree with everything you are saying.
Haven’t gotten to the fans yet which only cool the generators.
The batteries are in a different room than the generators and is not heated.
I still need to work on getting the oil pressure switch and hour meter integrated into the system as a safety shutdown.
90cummins

 

[Patrick Herd]

I just finished transferring the control wiring to a larger board so I could tidy it up. First time I’ve built anything like this any suggestions?
90cummins

I quite like using finger trunking to keep the panels I build organised:

Above is a work in progress (one of the few non commercially sensitive photos I could find ) capping not yet installed on the trunking.

I agree with everything you are saying.
Haven’t gotten to the fans yet which only cool the generators.
The batteries are in a different room than the generators and is not heated.
I still need to work on getting the oil pressure switch and hour meter integrated into the system as a safety shutdown.
90cummins

Would it be possible to duct some waste heat from the generator to the batteries in winter? They will definitely perform a lot better if operating at a human comfortable temperature.

 

[90cummins]

Patrick you are out of my league!
Beautiful work!!
I’ll look at the finger trunking that would work nicely.
The batteries are located in my house garage & generators are in a separate building that’s about 1 foot from the house.
Conduit goes thru the walls for the heavy cables that connect batteries to generators. Currently an electric heater would be the only way to keep them warm.
90cummins

 

[grsthegreat]

You could try this

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[3930dave]

Good pics of Pro panels (kinda like going to the gym with guys who bench 400# eh 90 !).

90 - my lousy memory isn't cutting it re. the rest of your system - do you have PV panels or Wind or any other Alt NRG sources set up ?

The reason I ask.... diversion-type charge regulators - free heat available (once batteries are topped up, power is switched to a load of your choice). In Winter, you could drive open-air (well, shielded for fire safety at least...) resistance heaters from PV or ? sources, once batteries are topped up. The other way people use these is to drive pre-heaters for hot-water tanks, which you could do in the Summer, if you want Winter garage-heat....

Rgds, D.