Chainsaw sharpening machine

[Rat Rod Mac]

Does anyone own or has anyone used the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener? If so is it any good? For all the more I saw, I would not be using it every day. It's advertised at only $30.00. Or would I be better off dropping the money for one of the Oregon models. Just thought I'd ask, thanks. RRM

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Does anyone own or has anyone used the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener? If so is it any good? For all the more I saw, I would not be using it every day. It's advertised at only $30.00. Or would I be better off dropping the money for one of the Oregon models. Just thought I'd ask, thanks. RRM

Don't waste your money on it...I had one and ended up throwing it in the trash and buying an Oregon. This is one item where you get what you pay for.

 

[westbrooklawn]

Do a search at arboriste.com and you will find that most think the Harbor Freight sharpener is not worth messing with... they will also tell you positively that the Northern Tool sharpener for $89 is a great buy... copy of the Oregon 511. I bought one based on those recommendations, and I am very pleased with it. Try the following link:


Chain Saw Sharpeners, Chainsaw Sharpening Equipment | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Ductape]

I'm with westbrook........... I've had the Northern chain grinder for a couple years and I'm very happy with it. I've got four saws and it paid for itself long ago. They are on sale frequently, and you may be able to get it to your door for under a hundred dollars.

 

[20 20]

Save yourself even more money and go with a dremel works just as good if not better, plus you won't have to take the chain of.

 

[LD1]

Personally I don't like the chain grinders. I think they remove too much metal and wear out chain faster.

I like the file guides. They remove less material. You don't have to remove the chain either. It only takes about 5 minutes to do a 24" chain and not having to take it off, makes up a lot of the speed difference. If you don't sharpen all that often, I'd look into getting a file guide and learning to file.

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I wouldn't waste the money on the Harbor one when you can spend a bit more money and get one that will last longer and is more accurate. The first one I had is called "Little Nick" that was an older version which worked well. Then I bought a German made one called a Maxx GB750. It is a great chain sharpener. Not cheap though. Having good sharp chains saves me a lot of time and effort so I carry spare chains when ever I go out to do a job.
If you do get a good sharpener take time to read the manual or do a bit of research online as to the different types of chains and the angles they are ground to. Most of the chain sharpeners are set up to sharpen round chisel chain. The higher end ones will sharpen the extra angles of a square chisel chain.
As for me I still haven't gotten the knack of hand sharpening a chain consistently like a good electric sharpener can do. If you don't hit rocks or nails you shouldn't have to take off very much metal. Another thing to see about having your sharpener do is adjust to grind the depth cutters down on the chain.

 

[Bedlam]

I have the 'Little Nick" it looks like the now present HF one . Its worked well for me for a few years now. It actually cost close to 80 dollars from HF new.So you can see they have dropped.I haven't tried but would agree the northern one for 89 dollars looks to be good A friend of mine has one and likes it. its far better built.I would go with that one if I were to burn up the Little Nick.
The HF one does the job for me but is a bit sloppy.I would say that it works but its more of a guide than actually being fully engaged.Again its all about use.
I can also see the need for a file .The machines do take allot of meat off.Of course this can also depend on how deep you cut. I touch mine up all the time.But its nice to get them back into even cut.
You'd have to weigh your options against how often you'd sharpen, budget etc.

 

[RobertN]

I'll second that. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to use. And they take off less material. I have the Oregon version of the file guide.

I thought I was doing well with a regular handfile and guide; this setup really helped.

The other thing of note: I do not let my chains get dull! With the file guide noted below, or the Oregon version, I only need two swishes of the file usually to keep nice sharp chains.
I always keep 1 or 2 spare sharp chains. If one does start to dull in the field, I change it out.

If I could tell someone new anything, it would be:
- Start with new chain
- don't let it get dull
- dont force the saw; you'll overheat the chain and bar, losing temper in the chain
- Oregon and Stihl both have great online info on properly sharpening a chain; read it first
- Get a good guide. I spent years calibrating equipment to operate in sub micron stepping, yet I did not get my chains sharpened well.

Personally I don't like the chain grinders. I think they remove too much metal and wear out chain faster.

I like the file guides. They remove less material. You don't have to remove the chain either. It only takes about 5 minutes to do a 24" chain and not having to take it off, makes up a lot of the speed difference. If you don't sharpen all that often, I'd look into getting a file guide and learning to file.

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

 

[beenthere]

Save yourself the grief (and expense) and file by hand. By the time you spend setting up a chain grinder to do a good job (much harder to do with the HF or the NT chinese knock-offs), you will have chewed up a lot of good chainsaw teeth in the process.

A stroke or two with a good file and some of the simple jigs to either hold or guide the file are easy to master and will maintain a sharp chain better than any grinder. IMO

Here is the jig I use that is simple, cheap, and works the best of the many that I've used over the past 40+ years. Made by Pferd, and sold through Husqavarna

 

[JJZ 109]

Like anything else HF sells, it's OK for the home or light duty user. I got one of the $30 wonders and it does OK for the 15 or so times a year that I use it.
I only burn a small amount of wood in the garage stove or use the saw for yard clean up, nothing heavy duty.
Just be ready to have the grinding wheel on it disintegrate periodically.

 

[Bedlam]

Interesting here it is
File gauges - Filing equipment
I like this concept I probably aren't as straight freehand anymore.
JJZ I agree, I had a spare brand new one and set it up and bingo blew apart. I took the small piece and got a stock number and mailed it to HF and they sent a new one...

 

[BigE_]

If you are looking for an easy to use electric grinder, buy the Northern Tool one for $89. I tried four of the HF ones before I finally gave up on them. I got the Northern Tool version and have been happy with it.

I also file by hand, and I agree you can get sharper chains when filing by hand. But, after about 10 cuts, you really don't notice the difference. Filing by hand is faster, and that's what I do when in the woods. Filing by hand also takes off less metal, so the chain lasts longer.

I have the Dremel guide (actually two of them now - one set up for 3/8" and another set up for 3/8" LP chain). I use these when in the shop just for a quick touch up. Note: if you go the Dremel route, you'll want to invest in some diamond stones. The Dremel ones wear out quickly.

About every 3-5 sharpenings I'll pull the chain off and use the Northern Tool sharpener. At this point I'll also make sure that all of the cutters are the same length, and I'll take down the rakers.

I generally take a file to the chain every other refill on the gas / oil. This keeps it nice and sharp, and actually saves time in the long run. If you know what to look for, you can just keep an eye on your sawdust. Nice big chips and you know the chain is sharp. Smaller chips, time for a touchup. Actual sawdust? Way past due for a sharpening! Time to put it on the electric grinder.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Do a search at arboriste.com and you will find that most think the Harbor Freight sharpener is not worth messing with... they will also tell you positively that the Northern Tool sharpener for $89 is a great buy... copy of the Oregon 511. I bought one based on those recommendations, and I am very pleased with it. Try the following link:


Chain Saw Sharpeners, Chainsaw Sharpening Equipment | Northern Tool + Equipment

Here's the correct link to Arborist: http://www.arboristsite.com/

Thanks for the link to the sharpener. Looks great, going to buy based on reviews.

 

[radioman]

I got one from HF and I hated it. I ended up giving it away to my father. I still do it by hand- faster, easier and better.

 

[dodge man]

I got one of these several months ago. http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/accessories/ElectricSureSharp.htm

It's basically just a dremel set up for 12v applications. When I bought it, I didn't even realize it was 12 volt, I thought it was 110 volt. I found out it didn't matter since my truck is usually parked near my work bench plus you could run it off your tractor or something else when your in the woods. Its probably not as accurate as a bench grinder, but still does a good quick job.

 

[6thgpSF]

i just bought the 12v one that stihl sells for their chains and I got to say it works pretty good,it sure is faster than using a file .it only cost $15.00 but you have to buy the stones seperate,3 for$5.00. russ

 

[Raw Dodge]

Buy a husqvarna file guide,the kit is around 16-18 dollars...and hand file your chains...much better results,no overheating the chains,and no more time required as you leave the chain on....I get my files from Baileys,

Bailey's - Save Edge 7/32"

these files are the best Ive used,2-3 strokes on each cutter,and it will be cutting better than any grinder can make it cut....I let a friend help me limb this week,he commented on how hes never ran a saw so sharp in his life...the chains never seen a grinder,and is 7 yrs old,has about 50 tanks of fuel thru it.....hand filing is well worth the time to learn.You can go on youtube and put it in a search,Stihl has a good video that shows exactly how to do it,and file the rakers too....

 

[Cami]

There's a really nice grinder in the shop where I do the odd bit of saw filing, but don't usually use it myself and can't think of the brand.

In my own shop I break files into ~3" lengths and chuck them in an electric drill. Just make sure to run the drill in reverse so the file actually cuts. The price is right for this power sharpening technique as I'd assume that most people with a chainsaw also have a drill and file as well.

A quick tip for cleaning stones used with die grinders: I keep a soup can with a little oil on the bench...dip the stone in and run the grinder for a moment. Pull the stone out of the oil (but keep it inside the can) and give it a quick spin to throw off the oil.

 

[BigE_]

i just bought the 12v one that stihl sells for their chains and I got to say it works pretty good,it sure is faster than using a file .it only cost $15.00 but you have to buy the stones seperate,3 for$5.00. russ

$15 is a really good price for that. The local Stihl shop sells it for $50. You buy it new?