OK, so the pipe I purchased is ABS, Schedule 40. It feels flimsy ("light weight") compared to the sched 40 PVC for sure, but I don't care how it feels to my had if it is much less likely to shatter in the middle of a snow storm. No new snow forcasted for the next week or so.
Snow Attachments ABS Plastic Pipe Snow Blade Edge
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OK, so the pipe I purchased is ABS, Schedule 40. It feels flimsy ("light weight") compared to the sched 40 PVC for sure, but I don't care how it feels to my had if it is much less likely to shatter in the middle of a snow storm. No new snow forcasted for the next week or so.
OP
bp fick
Super Member
There ya go!
Alt5600
Member
Not sure if this was posted earlier ... but ...
Here is a website that does a pretty good job with the PVC vs. ABS compare/contrast with specifications, dimensions, and thermal characteristics (click in the Product Information box):
Plastic Pipe, ABS Pipe, PVC Pipe, MDPE Pipe, Fittings & Valves, Water Meters
Here is a website that does a pretty good job with the PVC vs. ABS compare/contrast with specifications, dimensions, and thermal characteristics (click in the Product Information box):
Plastic Pipe, ABS Pipe, PVC Pipe, MDPE Pipe, Fittings & Valves, Water Meters
SARG
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AND..... just for info. Lowe's sell the 2" ABS in five foot lengths off the internet. about $5.35 each plus about $7. in shipping.
tree farmer
Silver Member
After working in the building supply business for 39+ years, I'm gonna theorize why one type works differently than the other. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is white, blue, yellow,gray or green, and is uniformly dense throughout its wall thickness. It is used primarily for pressure supply and drain lines as well as electrical conduit. Used as a drain line, it can be noisy if used inside a building due to its uniform density. ABS is black and is used for non-pressure uses such as drain lines. It has a dense inner and outer layer with a less dense 'foam' core, both for sound deadening and crush resistance. ABS pipe is much more forgiving in temperature extremes, due to its foam core being able to rapidly absorb the expansion and contraction of hot or cold water being run through it. Try running boiling water through PVC, and it will turn to jelly. Probably the reason ABS holds up better as a blade or bucket edge is not a temperature thing, but ABS, having a soft core, tends to flex more, rather than crack and shatter like most plastics will especially when cold. There, I've bored you long enough, but that's my theory, and I'm stickin' to it.
Too bad we never get much snow here on the coast, so I can't try it. Wonder if it will work on mud?....Dan.
Too bad we never get much snow here on the coast, so I can't try it. Wonder if it will work on mud?....Dan.
mjncad
Super Member
Most of the PVC DWV (Drain-Waste-Vent) rated pipe sold around here is of the foam core variety. It is not pressure rated like PVC supply line pipe. For hot water service, one needs to use CPVC (Chlorinated PolyVinyl Chloride) pipe.
As I have mentioned, I think its the Butadiene in the ABS that gives it the flexibility to resist shattering.
As I have mentioned, I think its the Butadiene in the ABS that gives it the flexibility to resist shattering.
OP
bp fick
Super Member
Who would have thought this little thread would go for this long!! Geeeesh!!
Just like liquids have different boiling points and different freezing points, Plastics have different temperatures at which they shatter. It's all documented.
The problem with PVC is that its shatter point is only 32F. That's not good for what we want to do.
ABS is -40F. That will work.
Just like liquids have different boiling points and different freezing points, Plastics have different temperatures at which they shatter. It's all documented.
The problem with PVC is that its shatter point is only 32F. That's not good for what we want to do.
ABS is -40F. That will work.
dcyrilc
Super Member
Too bad we never get much snow here on the coast, so I can't try it. Wonder if it will work on mud?
The best thing Iv'e found for mud (I'm a couple hundred mile north of you) is LOTS of 1-1/4" rock.
SARG
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Just for the information .......... I ordered ten pieces of 2" ABS last night from the Lowe's website.
A five foot length is $5.23 and I ordered ten to get free shipping (Over $50. ).
A five foot length is $5.23 and I ordered ten to get free shipping (Over $50. ).
JB4310
Super Member
Is your plow 5 ft or less in length? every supply house around here carries 10 footers. they do offer small cuts for convenience for the guy who just needs a short piece, but I'm surprised they sell 5 footers mail order. Must be so UPS can handle them easier?
JB.
SARG
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The FEL & 3 pt Meteor blower both measure 48" inside.
KevPH1
Silver Member
I've had good luck using farm equipment flat drive belting. TSC sells the belting per ft. I loosen
the replaceable steel edge of my rear blade. Slipped the belting between the blade and the replaceable edge leaving about 3" exposed/under the edge. I slotted the belting to match the steel edge bolt mounting spacing. (No need to completely remove edge to install belting.) The belting bends under when plowing creating a runner or squeegee effect. I did add a second layer of belting for stiffness. If you plan FEL (bucket) gravel drive clearing. Try bolting a pair
of scape wood runners under the bucket. 2"-6" or larger will work. The wood runners will hold the level bucket just above the gravel base. Note: don't use down pressure on the bucket.
Note: I have 260' gravel drive. Mostly #8 limestone, 3/8" stone size. The gravel will plow up "very" easily. (LOL)
Good luck
the replaceable steel edge of my rear blade. Slipped the belting between the blade and the replaceable edge leaving about 3" exposed/under the edge. I slotted the belting to match the steel edge bolt mounting spacing. (No need to completely remove edge to install belting.) The belting bends under when plowing creating a runner or squeegee effect. I did add a second layer of belting for stiffness. If you plan FEL (bucket) gravel drive clearing. Try bolting a pair
of scape wood runners under the bucket. 2"-6" or larger will work. The wood runners will hold the level bucket just above the gravel base. Note: don't use down pressure on the bucket.
Note: I have 260' gravel drive. Mostly #8 limestone, 3/8" stone size. The gravel will plow up "very" easily. (LOL)
Good luck
Jim in ICT
Gold Member
KevPH1, were you using the ruber belting on the blade for snow removal, or to spread your gravel on the driveway? I have some 14" belting that I've always thought would work well attached to a blade to spread my 3/4" limestone on our drive.
I used 1-1/2" ABS on my back blade for snow removal last week with good results on the rock. Only issue was after about an hour of use, the pipe seemed to lose its tension and fall off of the blade. I may try to cap the ends of the pipe where it extends from the blade to keep tension on the ABS pipe. Anyone else have this problem?
I used 1-1/2" ABS on my back blade for snow removal last week with good results on the rock. Only issue was after about an hour of use, the pipe seemed to lose its tension and fall off of the blade. I may try to cap the ends of the pipe where it extends from the blade to keep tension on the ABS pipe. Anyone else have this problem?
SARG
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And you've really got to be cautious with the pipe attached. I just cracked another one after about an hour with the FEL. Good I've got ten more coming next week. The ABS certainly does save the scratches on the blacktop.
OP
bp fick
Super Member
Yes, I am having this issue. The 2" ABS I have is too big in diameter. This allows for more "rocking" or "pivot action" of the tube on the blade edge. This is distorting the ABS. Still a big believer in ABS. I just need to get the proper, for me, 1.5" pipe. Hard to find around here.
eanjay
Bronze Member
Used ABS on my BB for the first time today - it worked like a charm. I also experience to lost of 'grip'. I think it comes from friction heating the ABS, as mine ended up forming a flat bottom and becoming loose. Gonna get a new pipe and try a little less down-pressure.
EanJay
KevPH1
Silver Member
Jim,
Hey, The belting is a flat 3 ply min.(I think) available at TSC stores. I installed the flat belt (two layers) to create a squeegee type edge extending about 3" below the steel blade edge.
My drive has a cement pad at the garage and then gravel beyond. I needed to clear the snow from the cement pad without damaging the cement. I found the belting edge also work OK clearing snow over non frozen gravel. The belting rolls under holding the steel edge from cutting into soft gravel material. I never tried my rear blade to push or grade gravel as yet with belt edge installed. I always removed the belting, add-on,edge in the spring. Saving from excess wear & tear.
Note: I did Fab./install 10" caster wheels, a couple yrs ago, to my back blade to further improve the snow removal performance on unfrozen gravel. I think I have 4yrs service on the belt edge without replacement. Hope this helps. Kevin
Hey, The belting is a flat 3 ply min.(I think) available at TSC stores. I installed the flat belt (two layers) to create a squeegee type edge extending about 3" below the steel blade edge.
My drive has a cement pad at the garage and then gravel beyond. I needed to clear the snow from the cement pad without damaging the cement. I found the belting edge also work OK clearing snow over non frozen gravel. The belting rolls under holding the steel edge from cutting into soft gravel material. I never tried my rear blade to push or grade gravel as yet with belt edge installed. I always removed the belting, add-on,edge in the spring. Saving from excess wear & tear.
Note: I did Fab./install 10" caster wheels, a couple yrs ago, to my back blade to further improve the snow removal performance on unfrozen gravel. I think I have 4yrs service on the belt edge without replacement. Hope this helps. Kevin
Egon
Epic Contributor
Now after you fellows make a round edge on the bucket how do you scrape ice off the road??
Jim in ICT
Gold Member
I don't have to worry too much about the ice. Kansas winters rarely stay too cold for too long, unlike the guys up north. The ice melts in a few days. The rounded edge just allows enough scraping without disturbing the rock.
Kevin, I have about the same concrete driveway/gravel drive situation. The ABS pipe on the blade didn't scrape the concrete clean enough for my liking, so I pulled the pipe and back bladed the concrete. I need to tweak my blade angle and possibly add some weight for a bit more downforce. I'll have to try the belting on the blade later.
Kevin, I have about the same concrete driveway/gravel drive situation. The ABS pipe on the blade didn't scrape the concrete clean enough for my liking, so I pulled the pipe and back bladed the concrete. I need to tweak my blade angle and possibly add some weight for a bit more downforce. I'll have to try the belting on the blade later.
outinthetalgrass
Gold Member
Ok so I know its July, but time to start thinking about winter again....
I am thinking about welding some 2" pipe to some steel tabs so I can bolt it on the the back blade as an edge to plow snow with, and then in the spring, unbolt it and use the blade as normal. Does anyone have an experience using steel pipe as opposed to ABS or plastic as an edge to protect the gravel ?
I am thinking about welding some 2" pipe to some steel tabs so I can bolt it on the the back blade as an edge to plow snow with, and then in the spring, unbolt it and use the blade as normal. Does anyone have an experience using steel pipe as opposed to ABS or plastic as an edge to protect the gravel ?
