By the Ironworker for the Ironworker

/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #121  
Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.


Nice set. I hope you never have to use that largest extractor.:laughing:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #122  
Ah- I see a future for you, posting daily or weekly tips on how to do stuff, like the idea of welding a washer then a nut over a broken bolt to extract it. You probably have hundreds of good techniques for doing stuff that leaves most of us scratching our heads and worrying. Maybe even a printed manual, for the shop bookshelf, since most of us don't have computers in the shop.

The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius. I also don't envy the OP for having to drill out a metric grade 10.9 bolt to get an extractor into it.

Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.

Now I know those extractors are antiques...they say 'Made in USA' on them. :)
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #123  
Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.


Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?!:D Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :mad::eek::laughing:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#124  
The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius. I also don't envy the OP for having to drill out a metric grade 10.9 bolt to get an extractor into it.



Now I know those extractors are antiques...they say 'Made in USA' on them. :)

Matt there still available from Mac tools. As for the washer/nut trick. I've been doing it that way for 25 years. It's the standard way of me doing it. Sometimes after I get it all welded I'll just heat up the area where the bolt is and cool it down with water a few times to shock it and you'll almost remove the bolt with your fingers. :D



Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?!:D Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :mad::eek::laughing:

Jay I keep all my tools in perfect shape. I need to too make a living. If one of those extractors were worn they get replaced and that goes for everything in the shop. I don't want to be out in the shop at 2 AM in the morning and reach for a tool and have it defective and not be able to complete the job. I even wax my welding equipment :(

Oh yes I do have to abuse the tools some times to get it done. I think we're all guilty of that and I know exactly what you mean :D
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #125  
Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?!:D Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :mad::eek::laughing:

2 foot????:confused:

Never used anything less that a 10 foot stick of 2" conduit myself.:D

...Typically used with an 18" or 24" pipe wrench. You get a lot of leverage when you're 10 feet out.:thumbsup:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #126  
2 foot????:confused:

Never used anything less that a 10 foot stick of 2" conduit myself.:D

...Typically used with an 18" or 24" pipe wrench. You get a lot of leverage when you're 10 feet out.:thumbsup:

:laughing::laughing: Yes and you better have a GOOD and DEPENDABLE brand of wrench as well!:thumbsup:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #127  
The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius.

I'll vouch for that! Many moons ago, as a youngster, I worked in an oilfield valve reman shop as a welder. Part of my job was to remove all bolts and packing glands from the valve body and bonnet. Many times to remove a broken off bolt I'd have to find a nut close to the size of the broken bolt (usually just big enough to slide over it some, forget finding the right size to screw on because usually the threads were too bad for that), slide it over the bolt a little ways, hold it with some channel locks or vice grips and weld it to the end of the bolt. Most usually, once it cooled a bit, you could put an end wrench or crescent on it and it would back out. Occasionally, I'd have to heat the area around the bolt and body to free it up.:thumbsup:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #128  
I've used it to pull head bolts out of cat engines and broken off studs in tractor axle housings. Its amazing how well the heat serves to loosen things up that were stuck tight that created the problem in the first place.

Another tip I learned that has saved me a LOT of aggravation, where I first used it on an 8N that I was restoring the gear box on....Weld the inside of a bearing race, and it will pop right out. The bottom bearing on an 8 N or other type ford steering boxes is in a blind hole. They press in, but getting the out is another story. Simplest thing to do is to weld a bead around the inside of the race and let it cool. The race will shrink and sometimes will even fall out.
I've used in on several taper bearing applications and it always works.
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #129  
:laughing::laughing: Yes and you better have a GOOD and DEPENDABLE brand of wrench as well!:thumbsup:

Always used 'Rigid' brand wrenches. The trick is to make sure that the entire handle is inside the pipe. Otherwise you bend or break the handle.

We did this for removing the nuts off the mounting bolts on old signal poles we were removing. Typically 2" or 2-1/2" bolts which had been there for 25+ years. They can become pretty stuborn.
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #130  
OK, got pictures yesterday.
First the tractor complete with baler attached.
Since this is afterall a tractor site then the next is the baler. For those who don't get out much a close up of the knotter. It a pretty complicated piece of engineering and a pain in the butt to get working right.

Next a picture of the loader with the broken bolts. A closer look and you'll see the problem. The space between the engine block and the loader frame is one inch. This space is filled by the two half inch plates in the picture.

The picture with the bolts shows the broken grade 10.9 bolt on the left. It was originally 75 mm long. The replacement on the right is the only thing I could get which was originally 90 mm but I've cut it down to 75 mm.
If you look at the engine block photo you'll see the difficulty on this one. I'm afraid I'll have to remove the loader frame. That will definitely be no picnic. Arghhhhh.
Lastly, since we are showing off our tools. I thought I would take a picture of my easy out set that I've had for over 35 years. If you look closely you'll see that they are even made in Canada. I still use the broken one on the very odd occasion only because I haven't checked to see if Proto still has these available.

Paul, when I read your response about welding the washer and then the nut to the broken stud I was knocked of my chair. What a clever idea. This will now become my modus operenda going forward that's for sure.
The baler is my nemesis right now. I bought it last year for $500.00, we are ranching on a tight budget and have been rebuilding it ever since. I have learned a ton about square balers as a result. While it has done most of the bales, it has been a challenge as it hasn't been used for years and little things like the slip clutches keep changing their friction point as they work themselves in causing interesting failure problems. I have been replacing shear bolts like crazy until I get the clutches to the right settings.

Enjoy the pictures.

Glenn.
 

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/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#131  
Glenn you just know your going to have to remove that loader attachment to get at those bolts don't you? :( I know. it's not what you wanted to hear. Really. How are you going to do it?

Nice equipment there buddy. Some of it looks complicated. glad you liked the washer/nut/welding trick. just today I needed to use it on a bike i had in the shop. I owner attempted to remove the baffle in the muffler and cracked off the bolt. he then tried to pick at it to get it out and didn't so I used my old method.

This was a small 1/4" bolt so it was a little tricky. I first added some meat to the bolt with a few shots of the mig. Then welded the washer and then the nut. Still had a little trouble getting it out BUT I did :D

I thought I'd take a few pics to show my TBN friends. Here ya go.


 

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/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#132  
More pics.
 

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/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #133  
You know a serious mechanic when you see a set of right hand twist easy-outs (for those pesky left hand thread bolts that need removing)
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #134  
Glenn you just know your going to have to remove that loader attachment to get at those bolts don't you? :( I know. it's not what you wanted to hear. Really. How are you going to do it?

Nice equipment there buddy. Some of it looks complicated. glad you liked the washer/nut/welding trick. just today I needed to use it on a bike i had in the shop. I owner attempted to remove the baffle in the muffler and cracked off the bolt. he then tried to pick at it to get it out and didn't so I used my old method.

This was a small 1/4" bolt so it was a little tricky. I first added some meat to the bolt with a few shots of the mig. Then welded the washer and then the nut. Still had a little trouble getting it out BUT I did :D

I thought I'd take a few pics to show my TBN friends. Here ya go.



Remove the loader:confused2::confused2:. That's part of the reason that I haven't done it yet. If your tractor is like mine the loader actually comes apart in sections. I can disconnect the front part and back out from it. Then the sub frame comes apart in sections. It isn't that difficult but it is a royal pain in the butt. All of that for two bolts....:thumbdown:

The good thing right now is that there are two more bolts about a foot back from the broken ones that are providing the stability. I'm not using the loader for anything heavy right now so it's not a panic. Heaviest I'm lifting right now is a pallet of hay bales that weight about 400 lbs each.

Haying almost done for now...about three weeks and it will start again. Then the tractor goes into my shop for oil changing,CLEANING and the other minor little fixups that it needs.

This winter I've got a list of baler repairs not the least of which is a major paint job.:confused2:

My MIG i sblue as well but doesn't have Miller on it. It works great though and I use it a lot.

One tool I"m going to add to my welding tool box is a set of carbon rods. They are great for those pesky oblong holes that should be round.

Glenn
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#135  
Remove the loader:confused2::confused2:. That's part of the reason that I haven't done it yet. If your tractor is like mine the loader actually comes apart in sections. I can disconnect the front part and back out from it. Then the sub frame comes apart in sections. It isn't that difficult but it is a royal pain in the butt. All of that for two bolts....:thumbdown:

The good thing right now is that there are two more bolts about a foot back from the broken ones that are providing the stability. I'm not using the loader for anything heavy right now so it's not a panic. Heaviest I'm lifting right now is a pallet of hay bales that weight about 400 lbs each.

Haying almost done for now...about three weeks and it will start again. Then the tractor goes into my shop for oil changing,CLEANING and the other minor little fixups that it needs.

This winter I've got a list of baler repairs not the least of which is a major paint job.:confused2:

My MIG i sblue as well but doesn't have Miller on it. It works great though and I use it a lot.

One tool I"m going to add to my welding tool box is a set of carbon rods. They are great for those pesky oblong holes that should be round.

Glenn

I guess it's OK to leave it as it is so long it don't cause the other "good" bolts to shear off. After all it's only as strong as it's weakest link.

Show us your welder. Blue without "Miller" on it :confused2: Man we're having a great long weekend over here. Put 400 miles on the bike yesterday. Hot, sunny and lots to see. Time to head out again. Have a great day everyone. :thumbsup:
 

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/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #136  
I guess it's OK to leave it as it is so long it don't cause the other "good" bolts to shear off. After all it's only as strong as it's weakest link.

Show us your welder. Blue without "Miller" on it :confused2: Man we're having a great long weekend over here. Put 400 miles on the bike yesterday. Hot, sunny and lots to see. Time to head out again. Have a great day everyone. :thumbsup:

Automatic onboard photographer. Wow. You really do pimp out everything you have.:laughing:

Seriously though, glad to see you out of the shop and having fun.:thumbsup: Important to keep a balance in life.
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#137  
Automatic onboard photographer. Wow. You really do pimp out everything you have.:laughing:

Seriously though, glad to see you out of the shop and having fun.:thumbsup: Important to keep a balance in life.

:laughing: Thanks Cyril. We had a good trip. Really enjoyed seeing all the birds and there were thousands of them. Some of the trip was all baron land while other parts were nothing but hills and all of this 2.5 hours from my home. Last pic is me :Dand last pic is my boss and on-board photographer :) Here's the link to the place we were:


Cape St Mary's Ecological Reserve - Main Page
 

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/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #138  

:laughing: Thanks Cyril. We had a good trip. Really enjoyed seeing all the birds and there were thousands of them. Some of the trip was all baron land while other parts were nothing but hills and all of this 2.5 hours from my home. Last pic is me :Dand last pic is my boss and on-board photographer :) Here's the link to the place we were:


Cape St Mary's Ecological Reserve - Main Page

Tell her she takes nice pictures. We've enjoyed seeing them.:thumbsup:

Of course, the one you took looks pretty good too, but it would have better composition if that pretty lady wasn't in the way.:laughing:
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker #139  
Thanks for showing us pics of your corner of the world Paul. Some of the countryside reminds me of pictures I've seen of Scotland. Do they make whiskey in Newfoundland?

That's quite the bike and trailer you two have.

Those roads just beg for a car or bike to crank open the throttle.
 
/ By the Ironworker for the Ironworker
  • Thread Starter
#140  
Tell her she takes nice pictures. We've enjoyed seeing them.:thumbsup:

Of course, the one you took looks pretty good too, but it would have better composition if that pretty lady wasn't in the way.:laughing:

I told her and she liked it and said to say thanks. When I take pictures she's always in the way though :laughing:

Thanks for showing us pics of your corner of the world Paul. Some of the countryside reminds me of pictures I've seen of Scotland. Do they make whiskey in Newfoundland?

That's quite the bike and trailer you two have.

Those roads just beg for a car or bike to crank open the throttle.


Thanks Matt. Glad you enjoyed seeing the photo's. Got to watch driving around here due to the Hugh moose population. Those guys can kill.

As for whiskey. Well we got something better than that ;) Watch the video: YouTube - ICEBERG Vodka CBC Interview
 

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