Buying Advice L3800 or MX4700 or MX5100?

[ravencr]

Hey guys,

I've never owned a tractor, but we just bought an RV Park and need a tractor to do the following things around the park:

1) Spread Mulch
2) Spread Pea Gravel
3) Spread Gravel for Roads
4) Grade Roads
5) Create new roads and sites
6) Bushhog
7) Spray grass and sites

It sits on roughly 20 acres, and the majority of the time will be used to grade the roads and sites, spray, and bushhog. I was told by my local dealer after looking at both the L3200/3800 and the MX5100's that all I'd probably need is the 3800, so save the money. My only challenge with this is that I'd hate to regret the decision and wished in short time that I had bought the larger MX4700 or MX5100. I spoke to a dealer today that said the only time he gets people trading late model units in is when they bought too small of a machine, because he said they basically will last as long as I'd like it to with proper maintenance.

So, any recommendations from those that have had this dilemma before?

Also, I have some questions on what options to get and what they are, specifically the optional valves, 3 point stabilizer kit, whether the rear work light is worth it, cruise control worth it, rear wheel weights and/or ballast box, what a drawbar clevis is, and whether the sunshade with lights is worth it??

Also, as far as attachments go, is the bolt-on cutting edge worth it/what does it do? Also, it showed a quick disconnect loader yesterday on the website, but now it doesn't. Which one is the most heavy duty and easiest to work with? And, are the extended warranties on the tractor and loader worth the money? For grading gravel roads, what would you guys recommend buying: a box blade or single blade or something else all together? I was told the landpride attachments can be lumped into the same kubota 0% financing, so I was hoping to pick it all up at once.

Also, being in Iowa, anyone have a great recommendation on where I could get the best deal on one of these tractors? What's a normal discount off the suggested retail prices on kubota.com?

Thanks in advance for the help guys...I really appreciate it.

Chris

 

[Hughman]

I don't know about the specific bota models (others will chime in) but from the tasks you list I would think that the bushhog size desired will guide you to the correct tractor/HP size. How much of the 20 ac will be cut and how fast do you want to cut it?

The cutting edge bar bolts onto the front of the FEL and is worth the extra $$. The add a lot of strength and protection to the bucket and are a lot cheaper than a bucket to replace. Mine has a double edge so if I ever trash the leading edge, I can simply flip it over and have a fresh edge again.

 

[ravencr]

Actually the bushogging is only a minor part of what we'll use it for. There's a back section of only a few acres that I'd like to use the bushhog for only. The rest we cut with zero turns.

Thanks for the info on the cutting edge. Sounds like it's a worthwhile thing to have initially.

Chris

 

[TripleR]

There is an active thread on L3800 and the "jerky hitch", so before buying one have them put a rotary cutter on the tractor and raise it slowly to see if it is something with which you can live.

I agree with wannabeRetired about the bolt on cutting edge.

As for road maintenance and creating roads, it is hard to beat a good hydraulic back blade, but they are expensive. Top and Tilt helps also if you can swing the hydraulic blade, but again $$$$. There are posters on here who know a lot more about roads than I so hopefully they will show up. I use a combination of box blade, drag scraper and back blade.

If I was buying, I would be looking at a L3540 as it has a great 3PH and lots of options.

The L3800 will be big enough as much as I like more power, I see no need for anything bigger as nice as the 4700 and 5100 are.

 

[teg]

I would even say an L3200 is more than enough power for what you are looking for... but with the jerky 3ph... grading is a nightmare. You want to adjust a little bit but the valve will move an inch. I can not recommend a L3800 or a L3200.

The other two tractors are oversized. I would look at another color or the "B" series if you want Orange. In fact you might like the smaller size to get into tighter spots... I assume you have a few tree?

 

[ravencr]

So, I'm so confused with all these numbers, physical size differences, etc. Where does the L3540 fall into the physical size and hp wise compared to the L3800 and MX5100?

A jerky 3PH doesn't sound great, that's for sure. I prefer saving money where I can, but obviously want something to get the job done too. The B series tractors look like a toy to me.

Chris

 

[Verticaltrx]

Don't overlook the L4400, it's in between sizes of the L3800 and MX4700, and doesn't have some of the downfalls that the L3800 has (3pt hitch). As far as physical size goes it's closer to the MX than the L3800. Also probably a little cheaper than the MX4700 too. As mentioned before, also look at the Grand L's. I would personally rather have a L3240 vs a L3800 even though the L3800 has more power. Even the small grand L's are considerably heavier than the standard L's.

As far as options, the 3pt stabilizer kit will make your life much easier, it uses slides instead of turnbuckles to adjust side play on the 3pt, and saves a lot of time/frustration. If it's a hydrostatic and you'll be doing much mowing go for the cruise control also. Rear wheel weights are always good, we order at least a set or two on every tractor we get (and fill the tires), more weight = more traction. Having rear remote valves is nice if you have a need for them.

I would skip the work light as they are way overpriced from Kubota, basically the same thing can be had from a local farm store for $10-15. Skip the draw bar clevis, very very few implements in this country use that type of hitch. Unless you use the tractor for hundreds of hours of loader work, mostly on hard surfaces, you'll never see the benefit of the bolt on cutting edge (designed for added wear resistance) No need for the extended warranty either, unless you just like throwing money away.


As far as attachments go there are a lot of good options that will do what you need. A box blade and landscape rake would be a good combination for building and maintaining roads. However, as far as ease of use for gravel road maintenance you can't beat one of these new grading scrapers (two diagonal blades inside a box that stir up the gravel). From what I have seen they work great for repairing and maintaining roads, but not as versatile as the box blade/landscape rake combo.

For the L3800 you'd be looking for a 5' bush hog, 5-6' box blade and 6-7' landscape rake, or about a 6' grading scraper. For the L4400, MX4700, etc you'd be in the 6' bush hog, 6' box blade, 7-8' landscape rake range.

 

[Wolfy]

I maintain my dense grade with a landscape rake. If its really bad I use my grading blade first. But the landscape rake leaves such a nice top layer. If you will be installing loam the rake is a must have. Since the rake has wheels, and the blade has skid shoes, the L3800 jerky 3 pt hitch would likely not be a issue. The B's are really nice for smaller areas. The Grand L's are $5-$6,000 more. I don't think the B's would suit you though. For sure get a bolt on edge, as well as a heavy duty bucket. For sure get the wheel weights. They are a way underlooked, effective item. And getting them new, with the tractor, is way easier than finding them years later, as I found out. The rimgaurd would also likely be a good buy. If you don't mind used, the Kubota L3410, L3710, L4310, L4610. They are excellent tractors, with powerful hydraulics and very few electronics. I have a 2002, L3710. I would not trade it for a new one. One of my favorites.

 

[teg]

First don't underestimate the B (or the BX, for that matter) it will get the job done... maybe a little slower...

I went to look at something you wrote and see that Verticaltrx added very good comments... the L3540 falls in between... It has a smooth 3ph and deluxe features that the "economy" line of the L3800 doesn't have.

Going into the L4400... it's big and powerful... my guess it's more than you need.

I'm still thinking a large B would fit the bill... :2cents:

Take your time looking for the right tractor... test drive may of them.

 

[kuboman]

If the physical size is not an issue for you then I would get the MX5100 which gives you a bigger more capable loader and extra HP. HP can always be used if it is there but only dreamed about if it is not there.:thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

So, I'm so confused with all these numbers, physical size differences, etc. Where does the L3540 fall into the physical size and hp wise compared to the L3800 and MX5100?

A jerky 3PH doesn't sound great, that's for sure. I prefer saving money where I can, but obviously want something to get the job done too. The B series tractors look like a toy to me.

Chris

The L3240 and L3540 are bigger and much heavier than the L3800, but smaller than the MX5100.

As for the B-series, side by side the large frame B-series are very close in size to the L3200/L3800. (large frame = B3200/B3300, B3030, small frame = B2320-2920) Loader capacity is very similar, the L3200/L3800 lift only 66lbs more than the B's and actually have less breakout force. They do lift about a foot higher though.

I use my B3200 for my small construction and fencing business almost daily, as well as helping out on our 200ac farm. It works well for everything from light grading/excavating, material handling, and fence building on the job site to mowing/tedding/raking hay, loading manure, and hauling in firewood on the farm. I don't take offense to you thinking the B's are toy like, it definitely is when I park my B3200 next to our M9540, but they are also extremely capable. Nonetheless, if you want a larger tractor go ahead and get exactly what you want. You'll never be completely satisfied if you don't.

 

[ravencr]

Great info in the last couple of posts. I need to read them again before responding, which will likely be tomorrow. It's got me thinking about the L4400 though, for sure. No disrespect of the B series tractors Vertical, just seem small in size, but apparently big on performance from what you're saying. Lots to think about...why do they make it so complicated?

Chris

 

[bilrus61]

I've maintained 400 yards of gravel road for 14 years by just using my bucket to back drag it and level it. I went from a L4200 to a L5040 last year and wow! I can haul twice the ammount of gravel with the new L5040. The roll back angle is very important if your doing gravel with a loader. The bucket roll back angle is (memory here) 40 degrees on the L5040 and was 23 degrees on the L4200. This made getting a bucketfull with the L4200 very hard to do. With the L5040 I can litterally have the gravel mounded up in the bucket.

I just roll the bucket back after dumping the gravel and then lower it and put some pressure on the ground with it. Then just drive slowly backwards. Looks like frosting when I'm done. Not had the grader blade on in 13 years. I would guess your buying your gravel from a quarry and will have it dumped in a pile then spread it. I dig mine from a gravel bar by the creek. Even with it in a pile the rollback angle on your bucket will be important. You will need LOTS of gravel if your making new roads. When winter hits with freezing and thawing it just sinks away and leaves mud on top. A larger size gravel is best as a base when your making a new road, use it as the base.

When I'm making a new road I just start laying gravel over the grass. Works great. No need to make a cut.

I really love the extendable links on the L5040. Makes hooking up a breeze. The entire three point hitch design on the '40 series of tractors is very easy to use.

Look into the '40 series of Kubota tractors. The ones with the larger 72" bucket with the greater rollback angle are gravel spreading mosheeens.

 

[ravencr]

5040...geez, so many options out there. But, these are great things to consider. Where does it fall in line with the other tractors mentioned size and capacity wise?

Chris

 

[crazyal]

Having too many choices is better than just having one or two. :laughing: Unless you are going to be operating the tractor in tight places I don't see much of a disadvantage of going to a larger tractor.

The GL series tractors are real nice. They have extra weight that will help to do things like road work. If you get the HST they come with a 3 gear range transmission and a shift on the fly high low range that works in all three gears. The standard L tractors will do everything you need to, they are more of an economy tractor so you can save some money. If it's going to be you doing the work ask yourself if you are a no fills type of person or are you the type of person who enjoys the extra features.

The larger MX or even an M5040 are also nice tractors that would work just fine. They (and probably the GL series) could be used if needed to move a trailer or two if needed. They would have no problem with any road work you would want to do.

If maintaining roads will be one of the main uses I would suggest you look into a grading scraper like this one from Land Pride (other brands are also on the market).

 

[ravencr]

Yeah, this is getting ridiculous...lol. I didn't even realize all these options existed.

Chris

 

[k0ua]

5040...geez, so many options out there. But, these are great things to consider. Where does it fall in line with the other tractors mentioned size and capacity wise?

Chris

Generally the first 2 numbers are pretty close to horsepower. Not exact but bigger number , more horsepower . the loader numbers are approximately the lift ability of the loader in kilograms. (2.2 lbs per kilogram) my tractor is a L3400HST the horspower is 35.7 the loader is an LA463 so 463 kilograms so about 1018 lbs. of lift ability. the weights of the tractors generally get bigger with higher horsepower but some series of tractors weight more even with lower horsepower. Grand L's weigh more than stand L's. I think the L3800 will do everything you want to do, and I am another one who has maintained my gravel drive gravel areas with just backdragging the bucket. But one of those graders sure look sweet. Look at what it can do.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/212814-angle-grader-blade.html

James K0UA

 

[ravencr]

Yeah, that would work great for working our existing pads. I will consider that, especially given that those pics were without adding any gravel. That would be very helpful for our sites and roads.

Chris

 

[bilrus61]

Usually the discount is from 10 to 15% <~~~max from the prices on the Kubota web site. My L5040 has the exact same engine as the MX5100. 44 PTO horsepower. Remember, the last guy in the US to trade in a tractor because it had too much horsepower was Fred Jenkins of Lima Ohio back in 1978.

My dad used to use a grader blade and left a washboard effect. He turned it around and drug it reversed and that worked ok. But a blade/box just moves around the gravel that is on top. If it has sunk into the soil or washed away your just moving dirt/mud.

My tractor is the GST.......glide shift transmisson. It is like a power shift. No clutching just push the lever to go up a gear or down. VERY easy to use if your new to tractors. No whine from the hydros with it. Check out the Kubota website. Go to a local kubota dealer and get the flyers and read up on the models. One will grab you and you can go from there. One note, the dealer will want to sell you one that he has on the lot. Around here that means the economy line of Kubotas. Decide on what you want and he can order it. On the cost factor. Tractors arn't like cars or TVs. They hold their value well......sometimes extreamly well. So a bit more up front is going to be there at the back if/when you ever trade or sell it. More or less. The Dollar fell to below 80 yen today. The Kubotas/Deeres/NewHollands arn't going to be cheaper next couple of years. Good time to get one now I think. before the recent decline of the dollar shows up at the dealer.

 

[StanR]

You can almsot never go wrong by buying a little bigger than you think you need. I made that mistake .. Bought a 28HP compact and replaced it within the first year with a MX5100. I really like that new tractor tractor. I larger tractor in most cases is more smoother riding and comfortable to sit and work in.