Buying Advice L3800 or MX4700 or MX5100?

[teg]

One thing to think about, if you spend all your money on HP... you will still need to buy implements!!! I've spent about 1/3 the price of the tractor for USED implements. The bigger the tractor the bigger $$$ the implements. Just to let you know that buying the tractor is the "tip of the Iceberg"

 

[Verticaltrx]

One thing to think about, if you spend all your money on HP... you will still need to buy implements!!! I've spent about 1/3 the price of the tractor for USED implements. The bigger the tractor the bigger $$$ the implements. Just to let you know that buying the tractor is the "tip of the Iceberg"

Very true. Once you get up into the MX and M series the stuff from TSC or other short line mfg's just won't hold up. Your looking at either high quality category I or category II implements, and therefore much more $$$.

The attachments are what do the work, they are really what determines the success of your job. Even a small tractor with the right specialty implement can often do a job much quicker than a big tractor just trying to use brute force. We used to clear brush with nothing but a big loader tractor with a standard bucket. It worked ok, but a small tractor with a tooth bucket and a grapple is much quicker, cleaner and more efficient. Same thing with gravel roads. For years we just used a 65hp JD with an 8' rear blade. It did the job but not very precise, and real easy to make a mess with if you aren't careful. Now I use my little Kubota with a combination of a box blade, loader and landscape rake and can fix about any drainage/driveway problem that comes along. I might even look into one of those new grading scrapers to further increase efficiency.

To the OP, I hope all that everyone is suggesting doesn't confuse you even more. But there are a lot of things to consider when looking for equipment, things that can only be found through experience. Once you decide approximately what size tractor you are looking for, go look at one of each (even if your local dealer doesn't have one in stock). Sometimes just seeing each model in person can help determine if it is/isn't the right model for your tasks.

 

[foreman Etexas]

You can get an 2011 ,L3800dt 4wd with ldr,5'box blade&5'shredder for $17,150 and get just tractor 2011, MX 5100f 2wd with ldr for $19,300.I have the 2011, M5040 4wd,ldr $26,900 some really big price jumps,witch ever you deside I think you will be happy!:thumbsup:

 

[magicheater]

You can almsot never go wrong by buying a little bigger than you think you need. I made that mistake .. Bought a 28HP compact and replaced it within the first year with a MX5100. I really like that new tractor tractor. I larger tractor in most cases is more smoother riding and comfortable to sit and work in.

Finding the "right" size can be difficult. I agree with Stan about going a bit bigger than you think, BUT, up to a point. Larger tractors give you more loader lift but decrease in maneuverability as the size increases. I use my "little" Kubota more than the big one just for that reason.

 

[crazyal]

The M series may be overkill but since it's a RV park he may need to move trailers around. Some of the RV parks I've been to have had land "out back" that they would store trailers there for cheap and they would move them for you. Kind of nice leaving that gas guzzling truck at home if you have a distance to drive and don't plan on staying at the park.

I like using my tractor over my truck for moving trailers. You can see the hitch so connecting it up is easy and it turns much tighter so it's easy to move them around. Just food for thought.

 

[Mpking]

I think for the uses you described, the L3200/L3800 would be perfect but as others said, the problem with the jerky thee point hitch would probably frustrate you to no end with your intended uses. That being the case, I'd go with the L3240 or L4400. Both should be more than capable of doing the jobs you outlined. The L3240 has probably just the right amount of hp for what you want in a slightly bigger frame and is much heavier than the L3800. It also has lots of nice features (HST+ transmission, great 3ph, tilt steering wheel, flat operators platform, cruise control, integrated FEL controls). The GL40s are definitely the "Cadillacs" of Kubota's lineup. Here's a good overview of them:

An Overview of Kubota痴 Grand L40 Series | OrangeTractorTalks

The L4400 has a slightly bigger frame than the L3240, 10 more hp, and weighs about the same without all the bells and whistles.

If you're a numbers kind of guy like I am, check out the specifications for the tractors on kubota's website:

http://kubota.com/product/L40/pdf/gl40_spec.pdf

http://kubota.com/product/L2800/pdf/l_series_spec.pdf

The bolt on cutting edge is great but probably something that most people could do without if you want to save some money. The guy I buy soil and bark dust from has one on his L4240 because he is scraping material off asphalt all day. That's the kind of use I think of where you would really need one. I would probably say the same thing about the HD bucket. Of course it just depends on your intended uses.

I second the grading scraper idea. Both Landpride and Woods make nice ones. I love mine. Worth every penny. I still would like to have a nice rear blade for ditches and scraping gravel back onto the road though.

Also, don't forget ballast in the tires. Rimguard is good stuff. It's made from beet juice so it's non-corrosive and safe for the environment (i.e. it won't kill grass) if you do happen to get a leak.

 

[TripleR]

The reason you are getting so much different advice, all excellent, is that you truly can do just about everything you mentioned with just about anything from a BX to an M. I did much of that for years with an old Ford NAA, but no FEL then with a BX2200.

We now have a BX2660, L5030HSTC and M8540HDC as our primary tractors and either "would" work, but one would be better overall.

I believe anything from one of the bigger B Series, my preference is the 3030 or 3000 due to position control and added features, any L/GL or MX will do all you ask. Only you can decide which is "ideal" for you.

I gave up on the one tractor concept, but for most of my life one and well used at that, was all I could afford and the "mid size" tractor seemed to fit the bill best for me.

As mentioned read a lot on here, go look at some tractors and drive all they will allow you to and I would even consider renting a tractor for a day or two to get a baseline for comparison.

One other thing, as a new tractor owner/operator, it is easy to be intimidated by size. I well remember how I felt stepping off of my NAA and onto a MF 375 then later into a cabbed unit and I grew up on tractors. Tractors tend to "shrink" with use and what may have felt really big on the lot doesn't seem very big after some time in the field etc.

Take your time and good luck.

 

[ravencr]

You guys are great. I really appreciate all the help. So, if I understand correctly, all models of the grand L series are larger in size and heavier than the L3200/3800, correct? Plus, they have many more features, but for me I have no idea what all the options and features even mean...lol. When I go to spec one out, I have no idea what options to put on them.

Chris

 

[gwdixon]

Great advice from all of the previous posters.

From your original post it seems like you will have a lot of grading and loader work. A tractor with a HST fits those need very well and will make those jobs much easier.

You may not want something TOO big since an RV park has tight areas, electrical outlets, and things shallow underground like water and sewage lines. A big heavy tractor could be a negative in those locations. Consider what tires you might want if there are large lawn areas. R1 tires will tear lawn to shreds.

You never mentioned you budget but, as a business, the costs can be written off with depreciation eventually.

My contribution to the discussion was mentioned before - a rear Top and Tilt kit. That will require at least two rear remotes but my advice is to get as many as you can or can afford.

Landpride makes quality equipment in my experience so get what you need now with the finance deal. Forget the extended warranty.

Like TripleR, my multiple tractors are a major convenience but unnecessary in your case. When I had a single tractor it was a L3650. Did fairly big jobs and small ones as well with ease. Something in that size range is very versatile.

The L3650 had a HD bucket but it wasn't a big factor over the standard duty bucket. You'd have to be using it in a gravel business as a dedicated loader filling trucks daily to notice wear. The regular duty is just fine.

The QA FEL allows use of different attachments/implements on the front. Forks and a boom might come in handy at your place as they do at mine.

If I was doing your jobs and could only have one tractor it would be something in the Grand L category. Every time you climb on it there will be a silly grin on your face and you'll be looking for work to do.

 

[teg]

We can blow your mind... if money is no object, and we are spending *your* money.

My ideal tractor (Regardless of HP but with implements that are sized correctly the for the tractor) would have:

First would have to be Front End Loader (duh)
Grapple and the hydraulics to run them.
Hydraulic top link and side link for three point hitch.
Couple extra remotes.
A backhoe.
Tooth bar.

Don't forget to save money for the normal run of the mill implements:
Box Blade WITH gauge wheels.
Rear Scape blade WITH gauge wheels.
Mowers, finish and bush hog.
Chipper.
Landscape rake.
...and the list goes on and on. What I'm getting at is don't blow the whole budget on the tractor. Take your time, read, and try and figure out what you'll need. Most of the campgrounds we stay at usually have an old beater tractor, not the high dollar ones.

When Fall comes, you might need this contraption for leaves...

 

[ravencr]

Would someone mind explaining what the top and tilt kit actually does or what it's used for? Also, what are remotes and what are they used for? Thanks guys,

Chris

 

[k0ua]

Would someone mind explaining what the top and tilt kit actually does or what it's used for? Also, what are remotes and what are they used for? Thanks guys,

Chris

There are probably a dozen other guys typing away to explain this to you, as I am doing, but here goes: As tractors come from the factory they have a jackscrew for the top link in the 3pt linkage and a jackscrew on the right hand lift link from the rockshaft arms to the right hand lower link. These are just simple mechanical adjusters, that as you rotate the center portion of the jackscrew by hand they either lengthen or shorten the overall length of these members of the 3 point linkage. This means to adjust the length of the top link for instance you must get off and rotate the center of the jackscrew by hand, and usually you must "unload" the weight off of the linkage by dropping the implement to the ground to be able to rotate it. sometimes you must raise it and drop back and forth to gain some slack to get it where you want it. This is time consuming and a general PITA. In boxblading, sometimes you need to adjust the "attack" angle of the blade by adjusting the top link.. NOW, with a hydraulic TOP link you can do this on the fly nearly instantly with a hydraulic control valve within easy reach from your seat. Now you can adjust this angle of attack within seconds instead of getting off and all of that. the TILT is the same for the right hand side jackscrew that will tilt the blade hydraulicly in seconds instead of minutes, all from your seat. . So to hook up these hydraulic cylinders you need REMOTES. these are just hydraulic connectors that snap together to the hoses on the hydraulic cylinders, and are controlled by those little control valves near your seat. All of these remote connections and valves and hydraulic cylinders cost some money. But most people consider the ease of use, and the time saved, not to mention the reduction in swear word vocabulary worthwhile money spent.:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[ravencr]

Perfect explanation. Thanks for the help. In looking further at the mx5100, it appears the valves are available but not the top and tilt kit. Also, it doesn't appear to have the third valve option for the front loader either. Is this correct, or am I doing something wrong?

Chris

 

[TripleR]

Would someone mind explaining what the top and tilt kit actually does or what it's used for? Also, what are remotes and what are they used for? Thanks guys,

Chris

James did an excellent job explaining TnT. I have used Tnt, but only have a hydraulic top link as I would not use the tilt enough to justify the cost now, but if I was buying new...

Several reasons I prefer the GL over L in no particular order:

1. HST+ transmission.
2. Roomier, flat operator platform which is easier for me to mount dismount.
3. Adjustable lift arms for ease of hook up and adjustment to implements.
4. Tilt steering wheel.
5. Smooth 3PH.
6. Generally better and stronger loaders.
7. Steering linkage.
8. Instrument panel.

I am definitely not knocking the L as I was going to buy one, I just prefer the GL. I recently spent six straight days on our L5030 and M8540 and I am in my 60's, so "comfort" may well be more important to me than others.

Also if not mentioned, go to Everything Attachments and spend some time watching their videos.

 

[k0ua]

Perfect explanation. Thanks for the help. In looking further at the mx5100, it appears the valves are available but not the top and tilt kit. Also, it doesn't appear to have the third valve option for the front loader either. Is this correct, or am I doing something wrong?

Chris

You can get your top and tilt kit here:

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Mtnveiwranch is one of the members here

You can get your 3rd function valve kit here:

3rd function valve kit for any tractor, free shipping within 1,000 miles!!

they are dealer/contributers here also. you can get your compact pallet forks at everything attachments also..highly recomended. I have a set of them. good people to deal with. Also look at all of their videos on their site, and you will learn a lot. Oh.. and make sure to get the hydrostat transmission on which ever tractor you buy.. it costs a little more, but for the kind of work you will be doing it will be invaluable. It makes me smile every time I use it..

James K0UA

 

[ravencr]

Just watched a YouTube vid of the HST+ and those features seem to be really helpful over the standard HST setup. So I guess do I spring for a GL that's smaller in hp but feature rich or get a base model mx5100. The top and tilt feature sure sounds handy too. I really appreciate all the help guys. Heading to everything attachments now to be schooled on attachments.

Chris

 

[ravencr]

Just watched a ton of videos from everything attachments and definitely learned a lot. The nice thing is they're only an hour from my house in Boone, NC. Do they sell kubotas too? I almost think talking to them about my needs for the park would help me to pick the right size tractor pretty well. Based on some of his videos, I'd say I'm leaning a tad more towards a GL now so I can utilize some more attachments and easier although I did see him using a mx5100 in some of his vids.

Chris

 

[TripleR]

Just watched a YouTube vid of the HST+ and those features seem to be really helpful over the standard HST setup. So I guess do I spring for a GL that's smaller in hp but feature rich or get a base model mx5100. The top and tilt feature sure sounds handy too. I really appreciate all the help guys. Heading to everything attachments now to be schooled on attachments.

Chris

Keeping in mind that the tractor I use most is a L5030, I really see nothing that would indicate the need for tractor the size of a MX5100.

A midsize GL will be more maneuverable than the MX and while a smaller tractor will go everywhere a MX will, the converse cannot be said. Generally speaking, a "smaller" tractor will do anything a larger one, but a larger one simply won't fit in some places a smaller one will.

As is often said, "Bigger isn't always better, sometimes it is just bigger."

I suggest you go look at your property, figure out the overall length/width/height of the tractors with equipment and see how it is going to work out on your property for your specific needs and prioritize ongoing over one time or occasional.

Only you can prevent forest fires and only you can pick the right tractor no matter how many tractors or experience any of use have.

 

[ravencr]

Sounds good. Just priced a loaded L3240 and they're definitely pricey compared to the standard L'a but I'd imagine it's worth it in the long run and for resale. Hard decision though, that's for sure.

Chris

 

[TripleR]

Sounds good. Just priced a loaded L3240 and they're definitely pricey compared to the standard L'a but I'd imagine it's worth it in the long run and for resale. Hard decision though, that's for sure.

Chris

It is that for sure, but the good news is they are all good no matter what you get.