I Still Hate My Tractor

[buickanddeere]

I've had three Kubotas and all three said to do that when cold starting. I shudder at the thought. A cold engine should always be started at idle and allowed to idle for several seconds or a minute or more if you got the time. Very hard on cold engines to immediately go into operational speed.

Totally not sure why Kubota says to do that. But I choose to ignore that part.

Actually once the engine obtains oil pressure the wear from higher rpms is a mute point. Loading a cold engine and running high combustion chamber pressures is a whole other issue and will cause gasket failures etc.
Standby generators start and wail right up to operating rpm. They last a long time.

 

[xring100]

My car and truck always start with a fast idle all on their own, but yes, the lack of lubrication is my primary reason for ignoring the owner's manual on this one. It just seems to start better with the RPMs set to 1000 instead of 800 (idle) and I figure that it won't make a difference for pre-lubricated wear and tear. I could be wrong and now that I'm thinking about it there's a good chance I'll go back to just starting it at idle.

Yes, lol, sorry for the hijack.

I've never noticed any difference when ambient is warm but definitely cold it starts much smother and I let mine idle at around 1000 rpm to 1150 ish. I've never timed the low oil pressure light to see how much less time it takes to go off when cold at idle or at an elevated rpm. I don't think kubota recommends this such that they want you to wear your engine out faster. It would be interesting to see what a kubota engine engineer had to say

 

[Coyote machine]

If one is using a synthetic or semi-synthetic diesel oil with a 5w-40 or similar designation the 'extra wear' of a higher than idle start is most likely negligible. And synthetic oils are designed to give faster, smoother starts under these conditions, specifically to reduce/prevent wear.
And, with a properly working oil pump a higher initial start RPM would send oil to where it needs to be FASTER than at idle speed. Cased closed-back to the OP's thread and Moses, or is it Noah's ship build?:confused2:

 

[RaydaKub]

I used the 3PH snowblower for the first time last week. I had to run the throttle wide open to get the snow to go more than 10 feet. The blower doesn't take much power to run but seems to need lots of RPM to make anything shoot far enough to call it a snowblower.

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

 

[MHarryE]

Not so sure about hotter combustion with the turbo. Heat does produce NOx, but engine makers added turbos to engines where they normally had N/A to reduce NOx, but some also added cooled EGR. With the turbo you are pumping in more air. Depending on how much fuel you are able to increase you might actually decrease combustion temperatures. My mechanical injection Tier 3 engines had cold start advance to help starting. Those were actually the highest peak combustion pressures we saw and had to use head gaskets capable of the high starting combustion pressure. My larger FADEC controlled engines had it all taken care of by the computer and my engines so equipped never had head gasket problems. As long as you don't go overboard with turbo size you should be in great shape. Remember too that higher horsepower means higher heat rejection into the cooling system so you will need to watch your temps closely until you get a feel. What a fun winter project. Me - all I get to do is go out and plow snow once a day.

 

[buickanddeere]

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

 

[buickanddeere]

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

 

[nwltruck]

DP double post

 

[nwltruck]

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

Took me a wile to get used to running a tractor at high throttle. After dealing with cars and trucks running 200 RPM under redline does not feel right. I do better now but still only rap it up when necessary.

 

[the old grind]

Took me a wile to get used to running a tractor at high throttle. After dealing with cars and trucks running 200 RPM under redline does not feel right. I do better now but still only rap it up when necessary.

I know the feeling, tho' many will produce max torque, and full hyd pump pressure, somewhere below 'PTO-speed'. On both my HST NHs (1.3L, 1.7L) 1800 seemed to be a sweet spot for most loader or snow work, and with the BB & land plane, with no more pressure/lift obvious above that. I confess to running at 1600 for hosteling and most light tasks, but Bush Hog & tiller get the high note. After running a PTO implement at full 540rpm for a while (2200, 2400 tach) 2k doesn't sound so busy. I'm not saving my engine, just sparing my ears and kidneys from the noise & vibration. That said, cup holders make me laugh. Stuff just bounces out at any rpm. :laughing:

 

[The Fred]

Many folks on this forum blow snow at lesser than rated RPM that's why I started slow.

This V-2003 engine has no balance shaft unlike it's 2.2, 2.4 liter cousins. At full tilt it feels like the things coming undone. I can turn the radio up but that barely works.

I chose the turbo that fits the Bobcat skidsteer with same V-2003 engine, I wish I had engineering background I have NO idea how to look at A/R ratios and wheel sizes.

I can drink beer with the best of you though guaranteed.

Fred, back on it this weekend.

 

[kuboman]

Many folks on this forum blow snow at lesser than rated RPM that's why I started slow.

This V-2003 engine has no balance shaft unlike it's 2.2, 2.4 liter cousins. At full tilt it feels like the things coming undone. I can turn the radio up but that barely works.

I chose the turbo that fits the Bobcat skidsteer with same V-2003 engine, I wish I had engineering background I have NO idea how to look at A/R ratios and wheel sizes.

I can drink beer with the best of you though guaranteed.

Fred, back on it this weekend.

Actually the V2003 does have 2 balance shafts. Same as all the 03 series engines. If yours sets up a vibration then something is not right as the 03 engines are very smooth through the whole rpm range.

 

[The Fred]

Thanks my WSM shows only the 2.2 and 2.4 engines have balance shafts, I was assuming.

Fred

 

[Tollster]

I'm actually beginning to hate it too!

 

[kuboman]

Thanks my WSM shows only the 2.2 and 2.4 engines have balance shafts, I was assuming.

Fred

No sweat, just checked the parts manual because your comment made me curious. I also checked Kubota specs for that engine and they rate it at 48hp gross so they must have derated it some for the 3940.

 

[PHILIP8N]

2nd that. The V-2003 engine does have balance shafts, and my engine is very smooth thru complete rpm range. Philip.

 

[PHILIP8N]

L3940 parts manual. Philip.

 

[ishiboo]

Why would you turbocharge something and kill the warranty when neither you nor the dealership has solved the fact it doesn't even start correctly?

I still agree - the expectations are screwed up if there isn't something wrong with the tractor. I have a L3650, also 40hp and a similarly rated PTO output. I moved 550 yards of top soil out of hills and flattened it in a day with a 6' box blade. I lift way over what its rated for, move my 13,000 boat + trailer into position as it's much easier to navigate than the crew cab truck. Move 10,000 lb dump trailer around with soil/gravel, the last load I picked up and spread was 5.4 tons into a 10k gross weight trailer. Even run a 6' KK tiller on a couple acres.

4300 hours on the original engine and it still has plenty of power. Starts INSTANTLY in cold weather with proper glow plug usage, and restarts instantly when it's still warm no matter how cold.

I personally wouldn't ruin the tractor by hacking a turbo onto it, but that's a matter of personal preference and it's yours to make however you will enjoy it. But to hot rod the thing when it doesn't even start right is insanity to me.

 

[aczlan]

But to hot rod the thing when it doesn't even start right is insanity to me.

Yep. Do "Stage 0" first (here is an example of "Stage 0" for a Volvo:http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/what-is-stage-0.html ).

Aaron Z

 

[milkman]

I'm with some of the others, get your tractor fixed first, then put a turbo on it if you want. Sounds like you're whipping a sick horse.