Another 32x40 pole barn project

[rogerius]

After two years of indecision, last week we start building our pole barn. I was looking for a while for somebody to build for us at a reasonable cost but didn't find. The quotes which i received were everywhere from 28k to 58k; yes, 58K. Based on this we decided to build it ourselves and we started last week. It'll be a 32'x40', 11' tall with a lean on one side with 2 garage doors, service door and windows.

How I mentioned already, we started last week and mother nature cooperated with us: no wind, no rain an ideal weather to build. The lumber was delivered as promised and was 4000$CAD. Very impress with a supplier as we found one pole cracked and they replaced in the same day even they are located at 60Km away from us.
Working with my son couple days and then with my wife, I consider that we did a lot for 5 days of work. We are able to drill 24 holes with a 18" auger, pour the footings(we mixed in a wheelbarrow around 90 bags of cement), align, and install the poles, attached the girds and one side of header plated.
Being weekend warriors we are going back this weekend to finalize the framing as the trusses will be delivered in two weeks at a cost of 1600CAD, and the metal with garage doors at 5000CAD. If I'm adding all the costs without our labour, the total will be around 11K, so not sure how somebody can justify 28K or 58K for this barn

Here are couple pictures and more will follow.

 

[Kryton619]

Looks great! You are well on your way. Did you have someone draw up the plans for you or did you do them yourself?

 

[Got2BTru]

We're not ready for a barn yet, but I agree, pricing is ALL over the place....however, I don't have your skillset either! Looks nice, keep the pics coming!

 

[brown40]

That is an impressive output! When I built mine I notched out the top 1.5"and put doubled up, staggered 2x12 on the sides and 2x10 with 1/2" plywood sandwich on the ends and bolted them through the notched 6x6. After that I installed a cap board all around to make truss marking and placement neat and easy. Having the cap on the pole the load on top of the 6x6, and secured wood-->wood, so fasteners hold in place, but don't actually bear the load. I notice it looks like your roof (to date) will be physically supported by scabbed up pieces... there are probably lag or carriage bolts I can't see in your pictures, but it looks as though those bolts will be the main thing holding up the roof (girds), unless you plan on capping the works after pole cut-off... I know my build was insanely overbuilt, but I tried to ensure fasteners weren't ever truly bearing any load, so much as keeping the wood in place. When the labor gets figured in the cost will go way up! Looks beautiful so far--nice job!

 

[EddieWalker]

I agree with brown40. Notching the top of the post so at least one of your beams can rest on solid wood would be the minimum. I prefer to notch it so both boards are resting on the post and then add another smaller board for the siding.

What are your distances between the posts? If 8 ft, I would have used 16 ft long boards and staggered the seems.

As it is now, you should not proceed with the trusses until you have your beams strong enough to last.

From what else I see, it looks like you are doing a good job

 

[brown40]

I went out and snapped some pics since I don't always describe things effectively. I used plywood which stiffened the structure, but still braced corner to corner--not needed I understand, but made me feel better--more insurance. The bracing obscures the bottom of the notch, but you can get the idea. I left 1.5" of the girds and headers proud to match the purlins/siding/greenhouse panels, but should have sunk both in like Eddie described. Not concerned about it, but would've been that much stronger, and the panels got in the way of tying gird to purlin when it got to that stage anyway... lots of lessons learned!

 

[rogerius]

Had some time to work at the barn, so it was a full working weekend. At the end, I can say that we are almost ready to lift the trusses as soon it'll arrive.. Thanks to all for all the advice and here are couple responses:
- I drawn the plans myself.
- I was thinking to notch the poles to receive the 2x12 but the inspector said it will be okay with carriage bolts and a plate under, so to save some time I listen him.
- the distance between the poles is 8ft.
As a note, I'll not believe when somebody will say that he build the barn himself. That I can't see be possible; just 2 hands is not enough. It'll require minimum 2 persons, in special for long boards.

Here are more pictures:

 

[brown40]

Had some time to work at the barn, so it was a full working weekend. At the end, I can say that we are almost ready to lift the trusses as soon it'll arrive.. Thanks to all for all the advice and here are couple responses:
- I drawn the plans myself.
- I was thinking to notch the poles to receive the 2x12 but the inspector said it will be okay with carriage bolts and a plate under, so to save some time I listen him.
- the distance between the poles is 8ft.
As a note, I'll not believe when somebody will say that he build the barn himself. That I can't see be possible; just 2 hands is not enough. It'll require minimum 2 persons, in special for long boards.

Here are more pictures:

Its definitely difficult to do with just two hands and a tractor, but a good slide and grip knot like a midshipman's hitch or prusik knot will slide when unloaded, and bind when loaded to hold anything in place long enough to fasten it--tying one-handed can be challenging. The trusses and girds were my biggest challenges, as there was nothing above them to rig to. Fortunately the top notch on the poles gave me a shelf to rest against for the girds, and the cap afterwards allowed easy placement of the trusses, with a hurricane tie to keep one side in place. I agree you need something on the other end of the long stuff to keep it from falling or shifting around--difficult, time-consuming and strenuous--but not impossible.
The barn looks great so far, and I'm glad the inspector approved of the scabs--I suspect your finish will be superior having DIY looking at the work so far... you'll know exactly what everything is, what was used, and where.

 

[hcallaway]

Lots of hard work is really paying off.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

As a note, I'll not believe when somebody will say that he build the barn himself. That I can't see be possible; just 2 hands is not enough. It'll require minimum 2 persons, in special for long boards.

I built mine myself, including putting up the 30' trusses by myself, and my tractor. it's not always easy, but do able. For long boards you sometimes have to nail up a temporary board, like a saddle, to hold the other end in place. You place one end in the saddle, and then you put up the other end.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

One guy can do it! One guy built our 30 x 72, beginning to end. He does it for a living and prefers it that way. It was interesting to watch. Basically he used a bucket truck. My hat is off to you, for doing it "yourself" impressive amount of progress. And if I hadn't seen it I would not have believed one guy could have done it.

 

[brown40]

I built mine myself, including putting up the 30' trusses by myself, and my tractor. it's not always easy, but do able. For long boards you sometimes have to nail up a temporary board, like a saddle, to hold the other end in place. You place one end in the saddle, and then you put up the other end.

View attachment 438720

I probably deserved some Darwin nominations for my solo barn build. Its great when a plan comes together. I think the trusses/boom pole off the forks was the toughest part (I had 32' attic trusses).

 

[LD1]

What is the spacing going to be on the trusses?

When I was pricing polebarn stuff, I found it was going to be cheaper with 8' trusses setting directly on the posts. NO worries about a large header, so that saves a good bit as 2x10's and 2x12's aint cheap. The trusses cost quite a bit more, but you need fewer of them.

 

[LD1]

What is the spacing going to be on the trusses?

When I was pricing polebarn stuff, I found it was going to be cheaper with 8' trusses setting directly on the posts. NO worries about a large header, so that saves a good bit as 2x10's and 2x12's aint cheap. The trusses cost quite a bit more, but you need fewer of them.

 

[rogerius]

What is the spacing going to be on the trusses?

When I was pricing polebarn stuff, I found it was going to be cheaper with 8' trusses setting directly on the posts. NO worries about a large header, so that saves a good bit as 2x10's and 2x12's aint cheap. The trusses cost quite a bit more, but you need fewer of them.

I've got 4' between trusses. In the future I'll install solar panels on the roof so I need a solid roof.

 

[rogerius]

I probably deserved some Darwin nominations for my solo barn build. Its great when a plan comes together. I think the trusses/boom pole off the forks was the toughest part (I had 32' attic trusses).

No nomination, just admiration. Still I try to visual somebody handle a 16ft board alone or installing a truss.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I think you could do it this way. I know a guy that assembled 2 trusses at a time with perlins on the ground then craned them into place.

 

[LD1]

I've got 4' between trusses. In the future I'll install solar panels on the roof so I need a solid roof.

8' span trusses can be built to whatever spec you want. You can make a roof just as solid as with 4' span.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

8' trusses require purlins on side, more difficult to install, more cost. you pay either way.

 

[LD1]

8' trusses require purlins on side, more difficult to install, more cost. you pay either way.

Yes, there is trade-offs. But not more expensive.

When I was pricing a polebarn I priced 4 different ways.

2' trusses and purlins laid flat.....this was the most expensive
4' trusses and purlins laid flat.....cheaper
8' trusses and 2x4's on edge, dropped in double saddle hangers...cheaper than 4' trusses overall. Trusses were a bit more expensive, $180 ea vs the $120 for the 4' trusses. But fewer were needed so it was cheaper overall. No need for the larger header, and purlin cost would be the same since it was still 2x4's. So alot of stuff make it cheaper, and the only added cost was the saddle hangers, but the savings was more than the added cost.

I also priced 12' trusses, and using 2x6's on edge in saddle hangers as well. For the total roof system this was about the same cost as the 8' trusses, but the savings would have been fewer posts and concrete footings and post holes. Cause with this style I would have spaced posts 12' instead 8'.

As far as difficulty to install purlins on 8' trusses, with the saddle hangers I dont see it being difficult at all. Only harder thing would be hitting a 1.5" target with roof screws vs 3.5" target.

Again, its all trade offs. Trusses are heavier if you are setting them by hand. But you have fewer of them to set. 4' and even worse on 8' make it difficult walking out the bottom cord when framing the roof. 2' is alot easier.

There is no "wrong" way here. Just different designs and opinions. Some like trusses closer and a larger header. Others like fewer trusses and setting right on a post. Both designs can be built to whatever load spec you want.