John Deere 2140

[Ausmac]

Zebra, the bushing and pin I had trouble with was the centre pin of the mainframe part T21669 and L62839. I had minimal play in my knees so figure I will let them go until I see any wear. I did the same and made a tool to pull them in using some heavy plate and 5/8 booker rod. Yeah I think it is a plug on the rear axle housing, will dump it this morning and see if anything come out. Was thinking maybe it is a low spot in the casting to get rid of all the oil? I can not wait to see what my screen looks like. On here alone people are removing them for the first time. Mine could be the same....

 

[Ausmac]

She is a goer!!! Runs, drives, steers, lifts. For reference this is the plug on the bottom of the trumpet housing I was talking about. After draining the main plug I got about another five litres out of this plug. Took about 30 litres to fill on the dipstick. Also shown is the hydraulic screen how I pulled it out. I was expecting it to be solid. About four bits of rubbish on the end of it. I had to travel a four hour round trip to get the right filter which was a bummer. The one I got originally was an ar75603. I needed an al25554. Built in bypass valve. Was a long haul waiting for parts and learning a lot along the way but I am sure I will be back for more experience down the track. Not much I can do with it as we are getting uncommon torrential winter rain. Cows are fat and will lessen the stress of having to bale too soon. Thanks again for the expertise. Will keep reading lots of other jd posts to get on top of any problems before they get to bad.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks for update. I'm glad you have hyd's operating correctly. Odd thing about these hyd filters is JD spec's shows AR75603 weighs 1.08#s while AL25554 weighs 0.86 #s & costs twice as much
Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

Zebra, the bushing and pin I had trouble with was the centre pin of the mainframe part T21669 and L62839. I had minimal play in my knees so figure I will let them go until I see any wear. I did the same and made a tool to pull them in using some heavy plate and 5/8 booker rod. Yeah I think it is a plug on the rear axle housing, will dump it this morning and see if anything come out. Was thinking maybe it is a low spot in the casting to get rid of all the oil? I can not wait to see what my screen looks like. On here alone people are removing them for the first time. Mine could be the same....

OK, those bushings I have not touched in my 2030. dropping the axle is lot of work!

 

[Ausmac]

Not out of the woods yet guys. 6 hours of slashing (bush hogging) and this happened. Is it a load shaft out to do or can you do it from each side by pushing it through each way?

 

[Tx Jim]

Yes seals can be replaced by pushing L/D control shaft in on each side to access seals for R&R. Downside is if shaft has sufficient wear to require replacement then hyd oil will require draining to re[lace shaft. Be sure to utilize shim washers to remove any side to side motion from shaft. Side to side motion of shaft accelerates wear on seals.

Ironically I just got my JD 4255 back from JD dealer a week ago having engine overhauled. Due to the fact that hyd oil must be drained to remove engine oil pan I had "new hyd oil" installed at JD dealer. I noticed yesterday that the L/D seals on my tractor similar to your tractor are dripping oil. :thumbdown:

 

[Ausmac]

Is there a shim part number Jim? Was just looking, there is two different numbers for the seal arrangement, was there an upgrade? Jd parts has two, #痴 34,35,36,37 and another breakdown #痴 41,40,39,36,37. I can give you a list of the part numbers if it helps. That is no good about your leak mate, hopefully they did not fill your reservoir with that nasty 303 oil I have been hearing about ha ha. I used an oil textrans Tdh premium. A lot of local farmers have given it the green tick of approval. One bigger contract farmer uses it in all his green gear, 8430, 6930, 4430, 3130 and old faithful 2130. They have a lot of equipment so I guess they know what works. A 20 litre 5 gallon drum of hy guard here will set you back $180 aud.

 

[Tx Jim]

Dealer charged for me for 15 gallons of Hy-Gard for total of $164 for hyd oil Shim washers for your tractors L/D shaft are shown in photo below

 

[Zebrafive]

Dealer charged for me for 15 gallons of Hy-Gard for total of $164 for hyd oil Shim washers for your tractors L/D shaft are shown in photo below

I think I paid more when I changed my oil, but I bought in 5 gallon pails, yours might have come from dealer's bulk tank at a better price.


To Ausmac, note their are two different IDs for the shim washers, key 5.

 

[Ausmac]

So I found out why my seals were leaking. The purple seal is meant to have an o ring behind it in the bushing. Mine had none. After 3 phone calls with the dealer he was not even sure we had it right. There is a lot of variation in the seal arrangement I have been told. I reckon I will be pushing my luck to get an o ring and seal into the bushing groove, it is only barely big enough for the seal. I have read to soak the seal in hot water to make it easier to install. Do I put the o ring in first and then the seal or try and do it together? Also I have the 25mm 1 inch shaft. EDIT I have also had trouble reinstalling the load shaft doing a test run. I have the draft arms lowered and L/D set to D. It is pushing the shaft away from the true centre, can not seem to get it past the plug it rides on.