Wanting to run grapple hydraulics off rear valve

[pa2000xxxx]

Already have 1 rear valve. Wont be using it much. Any shortcuts to getting hydraulic hoses from front to rear? By shortcut i mean ready to go...or will i need to custom make and give every detail/angles/fittings?

 

[oldnslo]

Are you wanting to have some lines permanently mounted from rear to front for grapple connections?
An option is run hoses from rear to front if you can route them out of the way. Less fittings and not as pretty but works.

 

[Stonehaller]

I run hoses from a rear remote to a quick attach snow plow on the loader. Remove them when the plow comes off.

 

[JeepHead]

I have two rear remotes and use my top link all the time while rarely ever use the tilt. I plan to run lines to the front, from the tilt ports, to operate my grapple once it arrives next month. No biggie..

 

[pa2000xxxx]

Are you wanting to have some lines permanently mounted from rear to front for grapple connections?
An option is run hoses from rear to front if you can route them out of the way. Less fittings and not as pretty but works.

Yes that's what I'm wanting to do. Just curious if anyone knows if there are ready made kits for this or if it's all custom lines (measure, give specific angle info etc)

I run hoses from a rear remote to a quick attach snow plow on the loader. Remove them when the plow comes off.

did u get the hoses custom made somewhere? Hoping I can find a shop/online that essentially has a "kit" of parts ready to go

 

[pa2000xxxx]

I have two rear remotes and use my top link all the time while rarely ever use the tilt. I plan to run lines to the front, from the tilt ports, to operate my grapple once it arrives next month. No biggie..

Where u getting these lines from? Custom made at hydraulic shop?

 

[JeepHead]

Where u getting these lines from? Custom made at hydraulic shop?

When I put together my rear remotes, I just bought a valve and then fabbed my own brackets for the rear remotes and for the valve. Then drove my tractor over to the hydraulics shop and had them cut all my lines that way they would be perfect length. But that was extremely expensive.
I will go to the local farm store and get the lines I need to go from the front to the rear as it will be MUCH MUCH cheaper and then fab up my brackets to attach them to loader....

 

[CH4Ohio]

I ran hoses from the rear to the front on a L5740 that I used for a snowplow and a hay grapple. I had the hoses tucked up and secured and left them on year round. Used it that way for several years before I finally installed a 3rd function. All this took was a trip to a shop to have them crimp some ends on some hose and some baler twine.

I don't see the benefit in running solid tubing. You'll still want to use hoses to connect in the rear in case you want to disconnect for a rear implement, right???

 

[CH4Ohio]

If you're intent on running tubing, might as well just use stainless and buy yourself a bender and do it yourself. It's not hard to bend if you have the right tool and pay attention. You might be able to just buy Swagelock straight couplings and 90 degree compression fittings and put it all together with those without needing to bend anything. Tubing and fittings can get expensive fast, but it's an easy option and you don't need a large size or lots of flow so that helps.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Yes that's what I'm wanting to do. Just curious if anyone knows if there are ready made kits for this or if it's all custom lines (measure, give specific angle info etc)

did u get the hoses custom made somewhere? Hoping I can find a shop/online that essentially has a "kit" of parts ready to go

When you ask about getting the hoses "custom made" . . .

Any hydraulic shop or tractor dealer or equipment dealer can make a hose. You just tell them what size hose you want, how many feet long, and what kind of fittings you want crimped on the end. They'll make it while you wait at the parts counter.

If you go in with the end connectors you intend to use (the quick-connects for both ends), you can just ask them for xx feet of hose to go in between. Then they'll know what type of ends to crimp on (size, male, female, etc.).

 

[pa2000xxxx]

If you're intent on running tubing, might as well just use stainless and buy yourself a bender and do it yourself. It's not hard to bend if you have the right tool and pay attention. You might be able to just buy Swagelock straight couplings and 90 degree compression fittings and put it all together with those without needing to bend anything. Tubing and fittings can get expensive fast, but it's an easy option and you don't need a large size or lots of flow so that helps.

 

[pa2000xxxx]

Not interested in hard-lines. Edited my post to say "hoses"

 

[LHF2019]

Just run lines from front to rear. Napa tractor dealerships Omni power drives are all places that make hydraulic hoses as well many others

 

[LouNY]

I ran hoses from one of my rear remotes to the front of my loader. I looked at the possible routing and ran a rope the way I wanted the hoses to go. Then measured the rope and ordered the hoses from Surplus Center.

I used elbow fittings at the remotes to keep the hoses in snug to the cab, then under the cab forward to were the loader lines ran from the valve up then followed the loader lines.

then along the loader lines to the front to were I mounted the front quick attaches.

Dollar wise, I spent almost as much as I would have using a diverter valve and tieing into the curl circuit up by the front of the loader +- $100.

 

[George2615]

Where u getting these lines from? Custom made at hydraulic shop?

I ran two lines from a rear remote to the front to operate the power angle of my quick attach snow plow. I bought the ready made hoses and couplers from a local tractor supply store. Just fished them under the tractor to the front and zip tied in place where they won't get damaged.

 

[Billy Bee]

Hoses and zip ties work great for my thumb on the bucket with toothbar.

 

[lman]

I ran hoses from the rear to my snowplow for changing the angle for a couple years. When I bought a grapple, I got tired of moving my hand from the joystick to the remote control. I then bought a diverter valve with a switch that I mounted on the joystick. The diverter is much more efficient and faster than constantly moving your hand from one control to the other.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Already have 1 rear valve. Wont be using it much. Any shortcuts to getting hydraulic hoses from front to rear? By shortcut i mean ready to go...or will i need to custom make and give every detail/angles/fittings?

I'm not aware of a ready made kit for this purpose. It will most likely have to be custom made.

Price out the necessary hoses & fittings and compare with the cost of a dedicated 3rd function valve kit:

Live 3rd Function Valve Kits for John Deere

Search by Loader Number

store.wrlonginc.com

Unless you do it on the cheap with zip ties & duct tape, you may find the additional cost of the 3rd function valve is worth the time and effort saved over a custom build.

You also have to ask if the hoses will be in the way when you're not using the rig. Also, how long will it take to hook up when you do need it? A 3rd function valve gives permanent, ready to use FEL hydraulics with no setup at all.

To save the cost of adding a 4th rear remote, I did the reverse of what you want to do. I ran hoses from the 3rd function valve to the rear.

Due to the setup hassle, I now wish I had spent the extra $$ and installed a permanent 4th rear remote.

 

[CH4Ohio]

To save the cost of adding a 4th rear remote, I did the reverse of what you want to do. I ran hoses from the 3rd function valve to the rear.



Due to the setup hassle, I now wish I had spent the extra $$ and installed a permanent 4th rear remote.

Can't help but ask. When/why do you need 4 remotes on the rear? With a similar sized tractor I've never needed more than 2. I can imagine a couple scenarios that would make 3 handy. What implement are you using that needs 4?

 

[5030]

I ran hoses from one of my rear remotes to the front of my loader. I looked at the possible routing and ran a rope the way I wanted the hoses to go. Then measured the rope and ordered the hoses from Surplus Center.

I used elbow fittings at the remotes to keep the hoses in snug to the cab, then under the cab forward to were the loader lines ran from the valve up then followed the loader lines.
View attachment 858215View attachment 858216

then along the loader lines to the front to were I mounted the front quick attaches.
View attachment 858218View attachment 858219

Dollar wise, I spent almost as much as I would have using a diverter valve and tieing into the curl circuit up by the front of the loader +- $100.

Did the same thing so I could angle my snowplow but I added a set of disconnects so I can still dismount the loader if necessary and I leave the hoses on the tractor all the time. Have Pioneer males on the back end to engage my Pioneer females on the back end.