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They were “factory exchange only”.. they wouldn’t let the fuel shops work on them.

Any comment?? Quit while you’re ahead!!

There is a gasket for the return line.. The 2 halves of the inj are a metal to metal seal..

I got tired of the flat mower tires too.. I bought a couple of inner tubes for a couple of bucks each and haven’t had the air hose out in years..

Does the posters engine have a decompression lever.? Is it being used.?

Lol.. it’s black magic I tell ya.!! Northern Tool and even Harbor Freight sells solid wheel barrow wheels.. (Cheap)

What have u tried.?? I think they have an electric supply pump.. when you turn the key to on, u should hear it clicking.. Have u changed the fuel filter.??!!! Try loosening the inlet connector on the injection pump and turn the key on.. there should be a flow of fuel THERE.. Good luck.

Fuel filters, internal in the tank and external.. Supply/lift pump.. What type of fuel system is on that engine.??

The other model pump that Delphi (cav) makes (DPA) is simple to take off and put back on.. There’s a missing tooth (master) on the drive hub on the pump.. THAT missing tooth gets aligned with a dowel pin in the drive gear.. and that’s it.!!

Thank you for the update, much appreciated..

“moved on”...THAT sux.. So he took it off and didn’t know what he was doing.. (Gotta time it first) Inquiring minds wanna know..how much did u pay him for taking it off.?? U don’t hafta answer if u don’t wanna.. U can send me a prvt msg if u want.

Make sure when u get it, it has an oring on the bottom.. If not, try to reuse your old one.. Good luck

Bummer.!! I don’t think the engine times at TDC..?? I KNOW the pump doesn’t.. Do u have anything on the valve cover that tells u the timing.? PMSMECHANIC IS spot on and I’m not telling you to do it any differently than what he wrote, I’m just trying different ideas to make it easier for ya...

What plate.?? Side plate on the pump.?? U GOTTA USE A HAND IMPACT AND HAMMER.. The screws r soft and tighter than Dick’s hat band.. If u try anything else ur gonna strip the heads..

I’m in the middle of several pump o/h’s so give me time to get back to you..

Before u pull the pump again.. Snap a picture of the front of the engine.. inside where the pump bolts up.. I might get the same result if u can answer this question.. Inside the engine where the pump bolts to the gear.. is it 1 nut and washer or 3 bolts holding the pump to the gear.. I sure...

That wasn’t meant for u D.. Just my sarcasm shining thru..

I’m gonna send u a prvt. msg..

Even IF u find something to cut the goo.. it would settle down at the bottom in the advance mechanism.. And anything that would cut the goo would most likely eat up the “plastic” flex ring.. You see where I’m going with this.??

Check out.. 7185-900W

I can give u the p# but there’s several different ones.. Single screw in the center. Single stud in the center. Double spade connector.. If u can give me the pump # I can look it up.. Ex: 3242F010

R u gonna leave it that way and use the manual sh-off.??

R we talking about a TN75da.??

It’s either a weak solenoid or your losing voltage TO the solenoid..

PMSMechanic;; hellofa write up.!!

No, the Bosch pump has a pointer in the governor that was set at the shop..& fixed.. There’s a timing pin in the cap on the governor..

I’ve never seen it personally.. but others say they have problems w the solenoid.. if u can take the guts out, u have a very old style solenoid and it may be weak.? The new style has non removable guts.. Takem out and see if it starts every time.. u can shut it down with the manual shut off...

I’m pretty sure it’s a Delphi DP200..?? W a cold start advance mechanism..

What r u saying, new cleaned gp’s.?? Old plugs just cleaned.?? Did u test them.?? Loosen the lines from the pump to the injectors, AT THE INJECTORS.. now crank the engine to see if fuel is getting delivered TO THE INJECTORS.. if not, u have to back track to find if fuel is getting TO THE PUMP..

Try running a hot wire from the battery to the shut off solenoid on the pump.. Just to eliminate a safety switch triggering..

If it is a pump timing issue, you’ve got your hands full.. The pump has to be timed at the pump shop then locked.. The engine timing HAS TO BE SET CORRECTLY TO.. Then when the pump comes back locked.. it has to be torqued to the gear THEN unlocked.. Here’s hoping it’s a supply problem..

DO NOT LOOSEN THAT SLOTTED SCREW.!!!! It’s NOT the drain.. It’s actually holding part of the governor together... Your pump doesn’t have a drain and full screws..

There should be an oil overflow pipe on the back side of the pump.. Most of them are self contained oil and u have to add it.. it’s usually 5oz.

I’d b happy to help you out.. Just contact me directly or send me a prvt msg thru here.

More than likely it has a “low oil” shut down in the system.?? MAKE SURE the oil level is good.. That would account for it starting for a second and shutting off.. Good luck

I usually don’t have anything bad to say about USPS.. BUT.. I have a customer that sent a pump out on Friday & the tracking number and eta said Monday for delivery.. Monday came and went w no pump delivered.. Now here it is Tuesday and there’s still no pump.. I asked the customer to double...

Yes, air reaching the injectors will hammer something fierce.!! It’s usually from cracked rubber lines and/or a failing supply pump and dirty/clogged filters..

They’re normally 17mm.

If we’re talking about the Delphi pump as above. U need to find better mechanics.. The inj pump is fuel oil lubricated.. not engine oil lubricated..

If your having inj pump problems, let me know..

I completely understand..

I hope u r cleaning out your fuel tank and r going to change your filters 2x a year.??

It sounds like your explaning the inlet filter clean out in a Delphi injection pump.. Once u remove the inlet nut.. U can use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the hold down spring.. THEN, u can use a pocket screwdriver to hold down “the guts”.. while using a 90* pick (scribe) to fish out...

That’s why u should do ur homework BEFORE digging into a pump.. U SHOULD HAVE removed the large nut, remove the big spring.. THEN.. hold the guts down with a pocket screwdriver while using a 90* pick to grab the filter screen and pull up.. THAT WAY.. u don’t have to worry about disturbing the...

The stop bottoms out in the ROTOR.. it should never touch the dv.. Btw. U HAVE TO USE A NEW STOP ..

As stated by RW.. u DIDNT FIX ANYTHING when u blew air into the tank.. u simply confirmed u had a blockage in the tank.. If u have a shut off valve in the bottom of the tank.. u probably have a filter that extends up in the tank.. Shut off the fuel.. Disconnect the line at the filter.. get a...

That’s an electric shut off solenoid.. There are 2 different pumps that went on the engine, depending on the year.. If your going to dig around in the pump, u had better know what yer doing.!!

I have 1 from there also.. both standard and metric increments..

I don’t think there’s enough pressure to open a check valve.. Do u have a knob on your inlet banjo bolt.?? If yes, try turning it the other way and see what happens..

It’s as good a theory as any.. But the proof is in the pudding..

Did u put the top oring UP IN THE FILTER HEAD.?? It HAS TO GO UP IN THE FILTER HEAD, or it’ll choke off the fuel..

I had a 10k check coming to my house by DHL.. They left it on my front porch steps.. a BRITE YELLOW envelope ON THE STEPS.!! Luckily I found it..

??? Care to share. This forum is to help others..

The leaf spring doesn’t have a torque.. that’s the screw for max fuel delivery..

The extension of the screw like u measured yours is 2-1/2”.. hope that helps.

It looks like in your pic that the hi idle and low idle screws are missing.. they screw into the boss on the left.. Another question.. r u pushing on the control rack in your pic.?? Do u have the spring and shims.??

Look for a plate behind the injection pump w the engine info.??

Hmm.. & he didn’t give u any leads to find 1.??

That adjustment is, an adjustment within an adjustment..

Rick.. #80 is very important.!! That’s what sets the fuel and the torque settings.. I can take a measurement of the screw and u can use a solid bolt.. if u can find 1 that long.. with the correct threads..??

U add engine oil to it..5oz if I recall correctly.. WHERE did u find a pump.?? I have 1 in the shop that needs 1 plunger and barrel.. that I can’t find.. It’s been here for months.!!

If u can’t figure out where the side cover is, u don’t need to be working on the pump.. Time to hire a mechanic or do some searching on the internet..

The side cover is towards the engine side isn’t it.?? Which would make it very difficult to see AND to put the cover back on and tightened up.. One step I think ur getting confused.. u DONT take the DV out... u take the CENTER of the valve out, along w the spring... and screw the holder down and...

Rick, ur correct by using FUEL.. using the tappet as a guide, u can get it real close.. But u are correct, spill timing IS the proper way.. It’s been my experience (35yrs), if u can’t figure out what spill timing is.. watching the tappet is the way to go.. Although it’s not the correct way, if...

Before u get to carried away with this (a lot of work for nothing). Spill timing IS NOT when the plunger reaches the highest point. Without try to explain it.. look at the tappet in its bore.. your start of injection (Spill Timing) is actually gonna be when your tappet is barely past flush on...

It’s hard to say if it’s repairable or not.. w/o having it in front of me.. The part number for the pump is on the nameplate. U could Google-hoo it and see whatcha get.. or.. if ur in the States u could send it to me for an estimate.. Just click on my screen name and “send a msg”..

Shhh.. it’s a secret.. Tell’m the pump guy sent ya.. you’ll get the brother in-law discount 😎

Dale Weiss @ TractorStuff

Almost the same scenario at my place.. change the color to RED & change the fruit to PEARS & FIGS.. Fun to watch tho..

They go to the radiator neck temp. sensor for a cold start solenoid on the pump.. The sensor is a very weak spot.. when it shorts out, it blows the fuse for the shut off solenoid.. The easy fix is unplug it and replace the fuse and off u go. If u want it fixed, your local JD dealer will have a...

Take the solenoid out and try to bleed the air out.. Once u get fuel spurting out of the loosened inj lines, tighten them up & try to start it..

Is it leaking fuel inside the pump or outside when u tighten the holder.?? If it’s inside, u missed the locating pin and sheared it off and the barrel isn’t seating properly.. If it’s outside, u probably need a new holder oring and delivery valve gasket.. Do u know the proper torque of the holder.??

U need to b very careful digging around inside the INJECTION PUMP (not injector) U say the spring WAS STUCK.. U can see from your pic that the plunger is on the UP STROKE.. each cyl has a locating pin that WILL SHEAR OFF.!! That position of the plunger and barrel needs to be DOWN.. and make sure...

Did u leave the line off to see if the pump is actually pumping fuel TO that injector.?? U could bend the line SLIGHTLY and hook an injector back up to the line TO SEE if it’s popping the injector.. B VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS.. the spray from the injector WILL penetrate your skin and you’ll...

Nice..

I would REMOVE the solenoid while troubleshooting.. I would REMOVE the air cleaner while troubleshooting.. Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine.. Once u get fuel spurting out of the loosened lines.. NO AIR.. tighten up the lines and she should start.. THEN work backwards...

A good friend of mine was having trouble w people stealing his building supplies. He was building his house about a mile off the main rural road.. no street lites or electricity.. He ended up putting up a gate.. One day he goes out to the property and someone had STOLEN THE GATE.!!!

Additives are left up to the end user.. PERIOD..

I totally agree w making friends w the USPS driver.!! My guy will even drive packages to my shop if he sees the door open..(100yrds) He asked me the other day if it would b ok if he signed for my packages if I wasn’t home.. He always brings the packages to the porch.. But then again, I give him...

There’s a ton of information on the web.. Kiki made 2 versions of that pump.. 1 w drain and full screws. (1above the other) & 1 w/o. The oil amount is 5oz. U can add oil thru the top of the governor.. The pump body has an overflow pipe on the back of it.. any excess will flow out of the pipe...

I keep a lot of gaskets and seals in coffee cans and I’m constantly pouring them out into the lid for sorting.. When I’m done, I just squeeze the lid together and pour the rest into the can.. BUT.. I like that tray.!!

I burn a lot outside too.. mostly pine and everything I find along the property.. What I did for my pit is: I used concrete “flower bed” boarders..8 straight (w 5 humps on each piece) and 8 curved pieces.. 2 straight pieces on each side and 2 curved pieces on each end.. it makes a beautiful...

That kettle is kool too.!!

It DOES sound as tho you’ve tried everything else.. Btw.. u don’t have to “time” the lift/supply pump.. it simply bolts on.. It’s operated by a cam lobe and if u feel like there’s to much pressure when you go to put the new one on.. just bump the engine to move the lobe..

It’s possible that u may have to “clock it” differently than received.. As u can see in the picture, there is a hash mark.. & u should ask if it came/comes w a mounting oring/gasket..

DOESNT it have the 5 sided tamper proof torx screws.??

The solenoid is put in from underneath the top cover.. The cover needs to b removed.. the replacement is self explanatory.. But I feel you’ll find the original problem after removing the cover..(water/rust)

That’s a good looking pit.!! But how r u going to clean it out.??

Is it possible that the injector for that cyl is stuck open, pushing compression back up thru the injector.?? To diagnose, swap the injector to another cyl.

Can u hear the shut off solenoid clicking when you turn the key on.?? And does it have some electrical wires coming off the bottom of the pump .??

That’s why I replace them 100%.. Glad u got’r going.. Happy tractoring..

That’s a thought..^ Could b the supply pump.. Unhook it at the pump inlet and turn the key.. have a bucket ready.. let it run, there should be about 10psi at the pump inlet..(6-10psi)

How does the fuel COME OUT OF the tank.?? If it’s from the top, that means there’s a “pick-up tube” that it’s pulled thru.. The problem sounds like a cracked p-u tube to me... Or a weak supply/lift pump..

Stick a paper clip in it and be done..

Land and houses are tricky.. it depends on the state and probate.. To avoid probate, for land and home, set up a SERVIVORSHIP DEED it’s very simple to do and automatically transfers to “that person” upon your death..all ya gotta do is show a death cert. I’ve done it and it works.. As far as...

Unless the magic potion frees up the mv(hope so) your destined to pull the pump.. READ THE MANUAL.. THE TIMING IS CRUCIAL ON THAT PUMP AND ENGINE.!!! If the engine is not set correctly when you pull the pump, you’ll never get it to run right when you put it back on..& u only get 1 shot at it...

Some, not all of the 210 pumps had shut off levers.. u could start it and pull the shut off lever VERY SLOWLY to regulate the rpm’s.. DONT SHUT IT OFF USING THE LEVER.. otherwise it’ll stick in the shut off position.. The part that’s stuck is called the “metering valve”.. If it were a DPA...

Why is it that YOUR experience with certain types of pumps make it THAT WAY for the rest of the internet.?? And your comment about Bosch style pumps is complete horse ****.!!! I understand that u think u know what your talking about..but..

I’m assuming u r working on a CAV DPA TOP COVER.?? If yes, u didn’t engage the shut off bar w the nub on the shaft.

Personally I don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze.. How much space are u REALLY gonna free up.?? I’ve got my 60 gal. in the corner and it isn’t that loud..

I haven’t a clue what your trying to say.. but.. there are 2 different ways to install the pump.. 1 is keyed on the drive shaft and a slot in the gear.. 2 is 3 bolts in the gear and a dowel pin.. u line up the master tooth in the drive hub with the dowel pin and install the 3 bolts.. THEN bolt...

It may have a safety switch that’s gone wonky.. Or a shut off solenoid that’s getting hot and shutting off..??(if equipped)

#2 in the throttle & #2 in the gov..(5)

It looks like a 5 to me to.. Which translates into a 2 & 2..

It’s the # IN FRONT OF the 2300.. the crease goes right thru it.. THAT # looks like a 5..??

So all u did was eliminate the TANK.. U still have the supply pump and filter head.. If it’s the filter head that has the thumb lever that moves up and down to stop the flow.. They have been known to vibrate down to the shut off position from vibration. And the supply pump can get weak while...

How did u hook up the alt. tank.?? Is it still going thru the filter.?? Does the alt. tank go thru a supply pump.??

Thank you..

As long as we’re on the PP subject.. Does anyone know about their latest change that alerts the irs for any transaction 600. & over.?? Is this 600. & up for any single transaction or a yearly total.. I know from gambling that any winnings over 1000. is reported.. so I think the 600. is a little...

I’d be happy to help.. The 400 has 2 different injection pumps.. A “JDB” pump or a “C” pump.. or u could b talking about the supply pump.?? If u can clarify, we can get started.. Or if u want, u can contact me directly at my screen name at aol dot com..

A yellow dot from a paint marker pen will identify them as yours.. it’s fast and easy.. Or an engraver w the last 4 digits of your s.s. #.. Or if it’s not to long, your last name..

Most cr systems I’ve worked on have an overflow banjo bolt in the end of the rail.. It holds pressure in the rail and opens when there’s to much.. U might wanna look for it.. If the supply pump is pumping to the rail and it’s returning.. the spring might be broken or the ball valve stuck open.??

Bad lift pump..

Not sure about the dates but I can repair the pump for you if it’s beyond your abilities.. If your engine shuts off w the key, the shut off solenoid might be holding the control rack..& keeping it from moving.??

If it shuts off with the key, it means u have an ELECTRIC SHUT OFF.. find the connection and put 12v from the battery w a hot wire.. Now see if it starts.. U might have to bleed the air out at the injectors..

Glad u got’r going.!!!

For the life of me, I don’t know why people think they can overhaul one of these.?? They don’t know how they work, they have no idea how to take them apart, let alone put it back together or where the hell to buy parts, EVEN IF they had the part #’s for the parts.!! I do give u credit for taking...

Amen to that..

They are 1 in the same.. Stuck plungers mean stuck rack.. Free the plungers and u free the rack.

I’ve seen THAT once and on a separate occasion the key sheared..only 1x each in 35 years..

I can see how it could help.

It looks to me that #2 has a broken spring.???

That’s because it’s TOP SECRET... Is there a big plug in front of the pump.?? If yes, remove the plug and use a flashlight it look for the timing lines.. if u bolt the pump back up and rotate the engine BY HAND until the VERY TINY timing lines are visible.. Seeing you have the side cover off...

It sounds as if the control rack is stuck.. Is that picture current.?? U have all the mounting bolts off.??

Whatever you do.. do not put a screwdriver in any of the segments.!! They are the equal delivery to each cylinder..

It’s the correct pump.. Pull and push the shut off lever while u look inside the pump.. The control rack should be moving all 6 of the cylinders..

I use my rider to move boats and trailers around the property.. I had taken the 2” ball off to hook up the lawn sweeper.. When I put the ball back on, I didn’t tighten the nut and washer, just finger tightened, I’ll get it later.. 2weeks later I was mowing and BAM... I hit “something” that took...

It sounds as if the inj pump control rack is stuck.. Remove the side cover on the inj pump, 2-10mm bolts. Have someone pull and push the stop cable.. the control rack should move the 6 segments FULLY, left and right.. For future purposes.. ALWAYS LEAVE THE SHUT OFF CABLE IN THE RUN POSITION..

I’m not certain of the fix BUT if u go to the fuse panel and pull the fuses 1@ a time and test the circuit u are getting the voltage to, at least you’ll find the circuit it’s powering.. My guess is a bad diode in the alternator.. Good luck

If the gov ring was breaking up it would shut the engine down.. When u get the drop in rpm’s, have someone there that can grab the throttle on the inj pump and pull it back to wide open and see if it’s a simple adjustment.(rpm’s pick up)

Have u EVER put oil in the pump.?? Do u know how.?? Have u checked the oil level.??

On the older style solenoids u can take the guts out, (plunger and spring) and screw the body back in..and go thru the bleeding process again.. That lever that’s not hooked up is the manual shut off lever..The spring should be pulling it to the run position.. Oh, when bleeding, put the throttle...

I live by the lake.. storms start and end here.. Lightning got my brand new 1400. frig./freezer last year.. Luckily there is an excellent “how to” on the web.. I was able to put in a new board and start solenoid in for less than $100.00.. It was a NO-GO for the washer tho.. computer board was N/A..

If u go and join The Tractor Forum, they have all the Yanmar manuals free, even the grey market machines..if it’s not there.. there are members of the Yanmar Owners Group that will lead u to the manuals..

It’s 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.. It’s more than likely gonna happen and it’s easier to remove the pump if the control rack isn’t stuck..

Lightning storm got my washing machine.. blew the computer board right out of it..

Your welcome.. If it keeps happening, the pump will have to come off for a rebuild..

Yes, take the fitting off the top cover.. if done correctly u will b looking into the hole in the cover .. NOW, try to start it.. fuel IS GOING TO flow out so b prepared for that, if need be, put a pan underneath the machine.. Good luck

The return line on top of the pump.. remove it.. If it has a checkball fitting on the top cover, remove it also.. with the line off and the connector off, go ahead and start it.. now piece by piece, reassemble it.. waiting for a 10 count before assembling the next piece.. Once u find the piece...

If u plan on taking the injectors apart.. DO NOT wire wheel any part of the nozzle (tip).. If your going to use anything, a brass brush and ScotchBrite pad is enough.. Seeing you are inexperienced at the process, SWAP THEM FIRST.. If indeed the problem follows the injector, your best bet will be...

Is concrete splatter a big problem on “fishing equipment”..??

Idk where u get the idea of it moving up and down.?? The pump/engine control rack moves in and out.. SIDEWAYS.. Go to utube and watch a couple of videos of people working on Kubota tractors, primarily on the injection pump..

Rest your drift or pick on the washer and operate the manual shut off, u should feel the drift move in the opposite direction.. Your just try to tell if the rack moves or not.. It’s not that complicated..

The lever is a manual shut off.. U could put your drift on the rack and operate the manual shut off and feel if the rack goes to s/o..

U don’t need to push hard.. Visualize what the plunger on the solenoid is doing.. It pushes on a part to shut the fuel off.. Then u apply voltage and it retracts into its housing, allowing the rack to go to start.. It doesn’t take much to move that rack.. Make sure the throttle is in wide open...

It sounds as tho, u would be correct..

Just because the solenoid clicks doesn’t mean the control rack moved to the start position.. If it’s like most of the others, it screws into the side of the case that holds the inj. pump.?? REMOVE the solenoid.. now get a pocket screwdriver or pick and put it in the hole where the sol WAS.. Push...

Kool.. 1 goes on each side of the line..& gets TORQUED TO 25ftlbs..

Is it turbocharged.??

There is a series of Mico pumps that r engine oil fed.. But they will have an oil line from the engine to the pump.

Where did u add oil.. There’s a large plug on top of the governor.. and the FULL PLUG is either by the supply pump (10mm) OR on the back of the gov. on a plate.. If u added oil at the big plug, the oil takes about 10 minutes to actually reach the full plug by the supply pump..it has to go thru a...

Washers sent..

Check your banjo bolts.. The one under the hand primer might have a screen in it.. The one on the inj. pump at the rear(return) should be a pressurized bolt or have an orifice.. It looks as though the banjo bolt next to the hand primer is your pressurizing bolt..& needs to go in the return...

Yes, they’re Teflon washers.. I always send back more washers than people need, incase they drop some or find someone in need.. U can either wait for someone to chime in or u can send me your address in a private message & I’ll send u some..(free)

U have a pic.. I have a herd of them, I think..

They over fuel when they get worn.?? That’s a load of crock.. A replacement pump might fix your problem, but not for the reason he gave...

Dry area w compressed air and brake cleaner.. sprinkle baby powder on area/engine.. Start engine and watch the flow.. Good luck

If it’s raw fuel, it’s probably a leaking gasket at the return line.. alway follow the torque specs..

Check the glow plugs.. might have 1 burnt out..

Would have taken me 3 days. Maybe next time..

None whatsoever.. Lower the pump and engage the pin on the control rack to the engine rack.. Some have a V notch that the pin sits in.. others have a hole in the engine rack that slides over the pump rack and held in place w a cotter/hitch pin.. Then push the pump down evenly and start the 4...

And it would be nice to know what tractor and engine we’re talking about..

Exactly.. ur not supposed find them.. because it’s not a diy project. U can try searching your pump # for a breakdown.

I don’t recommend anyone going into their injection pump.. period. Unless you’ve done it before and are VERY familiar with the insides and how it works. But it’s your machine.. On THAT NOTE.. Yes u/I can lift the barrel and change the orings w the pump on the engine.. Where are u getting the...

Everything will run correctly as long as u keep oil in the injection pump (in-line)

There’s a bleed screw by the name plate.. it’s a double screw.. loosen the 5/16 part of the screw and crank the engine.. it should shoot out about 3 ft.. tighten it up and loosen ALL the steel lines from the pump to the injectors a couple of turns.. Hold the throttle wide open and crank to a...

It’s not advised.. To many things can go wrong ...

U can take the line off BUT.. use the 2 wrench method.. Hold the pump “nut” and loosen the line.. Then u can sandpaper the end of the line.. Blow it off real good and reinstall.

I really like the Lucas Inj. Cleaner but I doubt that that it’ll cure the problem.?? Do the checks as stated in the above post.. To answer your question, the timing is done with shims UNDER the pump mounting flange..so be mindful of them.. u simply reuse the same ones.. If they’re stuck to the...

If u can get to all 3-4 of the pump mounting bolts, try adjusting the timing a smidge.. There’s an arrow on the name plate.. u wanna turn the pump OPPOSITE the arrow direction.. It’ll only take a degree or two to notice a difference.. DO NOT LOOSEN THE BOLTS OR ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE PUMP WHILE THE...

1.. check the fuel flow AT THE INJ PUMP INLET.. 2.. it’s possible that the “inards” on that cylinder are sticking.. Do yourself a HUGE favor and don’t go into the pump.!! Although it looks simple enough, there are gaskets and orings that need to be replaced when disturbed and tiny locating pins...

Vs getting it rebuilt.?? And no, your new pump will not come w new shims.. your supposed to reuse the old ones..

Absolutely not in a “common rail” system.. But no more than 7% in an older mechanical pump and injectors.. Hardly worth it..

I tried a return bolt on a slide hammer but no go.. The tool from Hoye is the upper body blank w threads that screws down into the stuck lower portion of the injector.(nozzle nut) on a large slide hammer.. My injectors were so stuck, I thought I was going to have to pull the head. I just kept at...

Try bypassing it completely.. Just get a double barbed connector and hook the 2 lines together.. just to see if indeed that’s your problem.

Yes there is a special tool.. I bought 1 from Hoye.. They rent the tool also.. U can unscrew the hold down studs and try to turn it to loosen it up.. BUT BE VERY CAREFUL.. if u use an adjustable wrench, there’s a chance u can crush the inlet.!!! What I did was, screw the line in a little into...

Probably 700-800rpm

If in fact the gear teeth broke and u get all the gears replaced, it’ll solve the problem.. As far as the manual shut off goes, if the gear teeth are broken, they have jammed the control rack.. and if you try to use the manual lever, u will probably do more damage.. like breaking the internal...

My screen name @ aol.com Is my direct email.. It might have some broken teeth on the gear segment.? I keep them in stock.

BTW.. did u ever figure out if that pump had gaskets under the barrels ??

That’s w new valve springs.. I wouldn’t push it past 2800., But is your machine.. Make sure the decomposition lever isn’t interfering and floating the valves..(if equipped)

2600 on a 3 cyl.!!?? I woulda laid down and died too.. lol

Does it shut off ?? If yes, the pump was probably assembled correctly.. Get yourself a hand held laser tach.. they’re about 20.00 online.. Get it BEFORE u start turning screws and blow up your engine.. Thanks for the update..

U should find out how to check the inj pump timing.. Did u put any shims under the pump when you put it together.?? It’s possible the previous owner took the pump apart and reassembled it wrong.?? I’m leaning on inj pump timing.. Good luck

Dry it good w brake cleaner and compressed air.. then sprinkle the area w baby/talcum powder.. Now start the engine.. the trail will be left in the powder.. easy peezy..

The thing I found w the store bought wire cages is, they get scorching hot in the summer months..and burn the plant when it rests on it.!! What I did was paint them white.. WHAT A DIFFERENCE.!!! Works great..

Is not real common for it to leak there.. normally they leak FUEL under the barrel flanges..(star headed bolt) If it is oil, simply tighten the hold down screws.. Hope it works out for you..

No..Shims under the injection pump.. between the pump and it’s mounting block. Just don’t throw them away.!! Why did u remove the pump.?? Leaks.??

Yes U can remove it.. it’s a diy project.. Shut off the fuel or pinch a rubber line.. Remove the lines and linkages.. U need to access the small plate that’s in front of the pump.. It’s easier to pull the radiator hose, so have a bucket handy.. I pull the top hose and bend it outta the way...

Glow plugs, supply pump (if equipped) Bleed back.. it’ll b easies to diagnose if u tell us what YOU’VE DONE..

Wow.. those ring lugs woulda had me runnin for the hills.!! Hope it all works out for ya..

I use PayPal when ordering from them, solely to have a recourse if i have a bad experience.. (per reviews) So far so good..(fingers crossed)

It’s very possible that the pump isn’t putting out enough fuel.. only way to tell is to get someone w the special tools to take it apart.. Same goes w the injectors.. Do u know why it sat for so long.??

The parts are available thru just about any fuel inj shop.. They are under the Yanmar part numbers.. Just keep in mind, some(most) pumps have that real thin gasket UNDER the barrel..BUT.. some don’t. Your manual should show it.

The packing you reference IS the thin copper gasket.. The torque on the DV Holder is critical.. 30-35ftlbs The control rack MUST move freely.. as in, if u tilt it from side to side, the rack should move from side to side.. Most Yanmar pumps I’ve worked on have a super thin gasket UNDER the...

There r 2 orings under each flange.. regardless of what ANYONE SAYS.. do not use any other orings but factory orings designed to go in that position.. Yes a special socket is required.. They are that way because it’s a safety and emission thing.. The flanges are “slotted” to set the equal...

The top nut is B.. top nut/delivery valve holder on the pump.. A- is the injector line that connects the pump to the injectors..(in the head)

OH MY GOD DUDE.!! NEITHER.. follow those steel lines up.. they will dead end AT THE INJECTORS.!! Loosen the lines AT THE FLIPPING INJECTORS.!!

Again, open them ALL UP AT ONCE..stop cranking the engine once they all start spitting fuel and tighten the steel lines

The injectors are screwed into the head..w a leak-off line running between them.