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I'm unable to scan the entire wiring diagram but I think it would be cost effective to purchase a tech manual and a VOM. Both will prove invaluable maintaining your 650. Sounds like you have a really nasty short circuit and it shouldn't be hard at all to find it.

When I broke the news to the first lady that I was installing a coal boiler in the house, the wife said not in MY house, you're NOT. That summer was quite tense while I worked on my pet project and ate cold baloney sandwiches for supper many nights. She quickly changed her attitude after that...

Well that cuts the possibilities down to 10 different thread pitches in 3/4".:laughing:

I consider 1/2 the compressed length to be a maximum extended length. Maybe that's overkill but figure it a safe way to buy a new shaft.

I went through this belt tension issue with a used 84" Land Pride RFM. What I could find was 1/64" deflection for every inch of span between pulleys with 7 to 10 lbs. | Plant Engineering In my case that worked out close enough to 1/2" of deflection and I shot for 7 lbs of pressure. That seems to...

My tractor and attachments all have their place in "The Deere Shanty". No heat, no AC but it's dry and secure.

IMO, Woods is top of the line as far as long lasting quality and design. Of course that comes at a price. I'd check out what parts manuals are available on line for popular brands such as Befco, Rhino, LandPride etc. and decide. Look at the Woods then compare it to the others, would be my...

Lets try this approach.

I agree. Got to maintain that square corner at the tip and in order to do that often requires a lot of metal down the cutting edge has to come off too. While 30 degrees is the industry standard for the cutting edge, a 35 degree or so will leave more support metal behind the cutting edge and give...

I personally like the longer teeth for ripping up old piles of dirt. I first kill the vegetation then sink the teeth straight down into the top of the pile and back up dragging the broken up clumps down over the pile. Then it's easy to get a full bucket.

I've used a hand operated diaphragm pump in a drum for decades. Easy, cheap and no mess.

We certainly understand your confusion as evidence on the I-410 loop shows with people not knowing which way to go on the ramp.:laughing:

I used 18" axles too for my 72" deck. It's very stable at least on a concrete floor. I did later add an indexing pin to the axle to keep it from rotating even the slightest amount in an effort to make the casters swivel smoothly. Used 4" casters and 10"wheels on the fixed axle.

Champ, This might be a starting point for you to check out. It's from my tech manual for a 2010 model year 3520.

Where is the belt rubbing the paint off the deck? If it's at the rear of the deck between the end spindles.....that's to be expected since it has no support in the middle of the span. You might unhook the spring on the idler pulley and confirm that it moves freely or maybe the belt has stretched...

A reference out of Machinery's Handbook is attached. Socket size has no bearing on the amount of torque the stud will withstand. You can't have a 27mm threaded bolt with a 27mm hex head bolt. It would look like a piece of all thread with 6 little nubs. Certainly useless for holding wheels on...

I felt the same way about leaving ANY kind of oil in for a year. So I took a couple oil samples and realized the additive package is very much alive and well. I feel good about it now but I'll continue to take annual samples for a couple more years and see how things average out. i think the 74...

Agree. I'd take a real close look at that position control linkage for some pivot point being rusted fast.

Yep they do look alike but this Sicma 72 gear drive was made in India. I think the smaller Sicmas are made in Italy though. Regardless, you've got one dandy tiller there and if JD put their name on it.....it's a keeper.

A couple of my PTO covers don't actually have a zerk shaped nipple. It's more like a little plastic nipple with a hole in the end. I use the same little grease gun I use on roller nose of the chainsaw.

That's surprising. I cleaned my inline filter on the 3520 and didn't loose more than a cup of oil the whole time the lines were disconnected while I sprayed off the element. BTW the filter was spotless upon disassembly at approximately 500 hours and is the first time I inspected it. It of...

I've always just given her a good smack with a 3 lb hammer while applying a down pressure on the tie rod by hand and the darn things just fall out. Looks like you'll have to take the tire off in order to hit in the right direction. Don't smack it sideways......just right on the end of the cast arm.

I don't understand why a fault code isn't displayed with the tractor running first of all.

Yes I agree 100% with getting a service manual from JD. I had a 650 for 28 years. My electrical problems always ended up being loose spade connectors in the wiring harness. Especially the safety start circuit. Years of vibration, I guess. Anywho, the starter solenoid is on the bottom of your...

MAYBE the parking latch cap screw needs adjusted. Located at the top of each mast is an assembly that limits the mast movement. It does need adjustment from time to time. Raise the front wheels off the ground with the loader bucket or lift arms and look at the gap between the head of the cap...

Maybe this will help.

I simply used 1" solid round stock and turned the ends down to my bearing diameter for two wheels on the one axle. A simple job for any machine shop. Or you could shop around for 1" DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. Casters on one axle are nice too while you're at it.

I borrowed it from a neighbor and thought I'd check the oil before I used it and found this: The golden rule: "Do unto others as.........." My neighbor was tickled and I got to use his tiller.

I've been doing that a long time and it saves me a lot of $$$$.

Would this help you?

Beenthere, you're good. That was a horrible picture along with no explanation. I wanted to show the gap between the deck and the assembly that supports the carrier bearing. When the little carriage bolts get loose that assembly hits the gearbox mounting frame on the deck and makes one heck of a...

I can check that with an infrared probe the next time I mow. Not real sure how accurate those things are but will try it next time I mow. You are wise to contact your JD service department. They are there to help you and address your concerns. Replacing all that stuff should have really...

I'm with beenthere about the dust assuming it's all over the deck but the two carriage bolts you speak of being loose are of great concern and probable cause for the carrier bearing to be hot. I've had the same experience on my 3520 and auto connect 72" deck. At this point you'll either have...

A hammer has always work for me also. Like magic with a little down pressure on the tie rod and smack the casting in the direction indicated in the picture. That would be the strongest (for not cracking the casting) direction to hit it.

No problems so far doing just that.

As George said above. Here is a picture to guide you in the direction to smack the joint that will help.

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/OregonBladesByLength.pdf Is the only thing I can think of. Might find something to work with it.

After finding a picture of the chains when I first put them on, (last winter) it appears I've cut at least 6 side links off the chain. Apparently I took 3 off last year and then again cut 3 off this winter. Here is a picture I took last winter and first put them on the tires. If I zoom in I can...

I'm with Tx Jim and wouldn't be so quick to disregard the governor.

That would be a lot of unsupported pipe and custom made, I think. Maybe a short extension from NAPA and turn it down would work.

Would this be of any help?

Is anyone running Aquiline Talon chains on their 3x20 series along with the wide R4 (15x19.5) rear tires? I'm concerned about the clearance between the sidewall and the inside of the fender.

I'd do a geared drive again. You can still get some fab time in welding up a frame and base to mount it on. I drove this 12kw off of a 650 JD. It was only good for about 5 or 6kw but now the 3520 will play with 12Kw.

My old 650 JD has been putting out some blue smoke until it warms up lately but it doesn't do it at every cold start. It has 2600 hrs on it and otherwise runs fine and been a great little tractor for me. Any ideas?