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Yes, on both accounts.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/6/262-ford-4000.html SN 44063 would make it a '64 I believe.

Some pictures would be nice

Might be able to use a step from an L2800, Just need to make a pair of mounting brackets out of some angle iron. https://www.messicks.com/ku/85296?sectionId=218600&diagramId=353184 Item #40

Back in the mid 90's, our shop was broken into. Took a bunch of my co-workers tools. He got a call a couple of months later from the sheriff's office. When the SO called, they asked for him by name. Found the tools in a garage a few miles from the shop. They were investigating a car theft...

Our annual Farm Bureau coverage on both property and auto is due next month. Auto: 2001 Chev 1500PU, 2002 Ford Windstar, both with minimum coverage, and 2010 Ram 1500, full coverage, primary vehicle. Up $96 for the year. Property: 2100 sq. ft., 2 story house, 2 150 sq. ft. out buildings...

Years ago, late 60's, while working at an IH dealership, we had a cotton picker with a locked up engine. Could not turn it over at all. Started pulling it apart and found the remains of a bird in an exhaust port. The best we could tell, the aluminium piston swelled due to chemical reactions...

If you can not rotate the engine 360 degrees, you will need to remove the cylinder head to see what is on top of a piston. Possibly a broken valve.

Pull the glow plugs and then see if you can turn it over. Watch for any coolant coming out of the glow plug holes.

the factory vent on the B7800HSD 6C040-36070 PIPE, BREATHER

Bobcat has these available. Don't know the prices. Have seen them mounted. https://www.bobcat.com/na/en/attachments/grader

Sam's in Chattanooga: Reg= 2.76 Diesel= 3.65 Home - About an hour N. of Chattanooga. Reg= 2.74 Diesel= 3.59

Need a picture.

Any tire shop should be able to handle it. IIRC, these were used on early travel trailers. Tire size is probably 7-14.5. Can't tell from the pics.

Item 140 -150 https://www.messicks.com/ku/93300?sectionId=233617&diagramId=505192

Might check with Bingham Eq. to see if they have a B26TLB on their yard so that you can compare the mountings and connections. Can't imagine how a Mahindra backhoe would mount up without a lot of modifying. Also might check with Team Tractor on Happy Valley Rd. in Phoenix. Don't know them...

Replaceable seals. #8 https://www.messicks.com/nh/138318?sectionId=286633&diagramId=1084994

If the radiator shop is any good, they can recore it. And I would think for a lot less than $800.

Finally got down the drive today. First time out in a week. Concrete drive has quite an incline and I didn't want to slide across the street into the creek at the bottom. Neighbor brought some salt over yesterday afternoon. Sure was getting tired of looking at 4 walls.

Only a single element. TA040-93230 -ASSY ELEMENT,OUTER https://www.messicks.com/ku/93304

Check with your local auto parts store and see if they have any 1/2" fuel hose. It will work.

Take off the oil cup and clean out the center pipe. Change the oil and reassemble. Should not be an issue.

In the late 70's, my dad had a long wheelbase Ford 1/2 ton that he pulled a 21' Mitchell fifth wheel rv and then flat towed his '46 Jeep behind the trailer. All with an Arizona operators license.

I was driving down Deer Valley Rd in Phoenix a few years ago in a company F250 with 18' trailer. Saw a motorcycle offices sitting at the curb on a side street watching traffic. Sure enough, he chose me as his next "victim". Lit me up so I pulled over and he pulled up next to the door and asked...

In the late 70's, I was working on a farm in southwest Arizona. Owner came up to me one day and said let's go for a ride. Went to the IH dealer and looked at a used International 622 cotton picker. He bought it and guess what I did? Checked it over and then drove it home about 110 miles on...

What model tractor did it come off of?

I know that they are a ways away, but you might look at Fleming Trailers in Glendale AZ. We sold them at the dealership that I worked for and we also used them. Never any issues with craftsmanship of paint. They build quite a few different styles and sizes. They will also custom build. Check...

You need item #80. Washer. https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/15841-94040

Month JAN - A FEB - B MAR - C APR - D MAY - E JUNE - F JULY - G AUG - H SEPT - J OCT - K NOV - L DEC - M Day Numerical Date 1 through 31 Shift Midnight - A Day - B Afternoon - C

Unit # says : 1K31B = Oct. 31, 2001, day shift

Try cleaning the hyd strainer #100 in picture. https://www.messicks.com/ku/84641

Dual assy, t/o, pilot approx $2200. Single plate, disc, t/o, pilot approx $630. These are Messick's prices. Labor about 10-12 hours @ $125 per hour= $1250-$1500. Not sure what current shop rates are.

Sounds high to me. Need to know if you have a single or dual clutch. It will make a big difference in price. Will have to add t/o and pilot bearings plus any needed seals and o'rings.

Add me to the list.

Check with Shoemaker Welding in North Liberty. They build lift pumps, but also do general and custom welding. They are southwest of South Bend on state route 23. https://shoemakerwelding.com/

Rear engine seal. Freeze plugs in rear of engine if any. Pilot and T/O brg, clutch disk and possibly pressure plate. Just what came to mind.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/0/8/3087-new-holland-tz18da.html

The flange you see is for a shaft cover that screws in. What you need is a shaft extender. Also, check to see if your PTO shaft is 1-1/8 or 1-3/8. 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 SpeeCo PTO Increaser S16060500 1-3/8 to 1-3/8 SpeeCo PTO Extender S16060800

Here is the Tractor Data link, https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/7/179-allis-chalmers-170.html

From the picture, I don't see an issue. The spline you see here is where the axle shaft fits into the differential assembly. What I was referring to is the sleeve coupler on the driveshaft itself. There are 2 with internal splines. The coupler is about 2" long. Look at item #28 in this picture...

Most farm equipment dealers sell "Big Orange" brand clevis's. The following might work for what you need...

Yes, the oring will stretch. Just use a pick to remove the old one. Put a little oil on the new one after it's in place. Then push the filter element up in place.

IIRC, there is a nipple sticking down from the filter base that has an oring on it. The filter will slip over this. Just look up inside the base.

Probably the splines inside one of the driveline couplers. Have seen it happen a number of times.

Whichever tractor, build a heavy duty expanded metal rear window protector. Trust me, you'll not regret it.

What model? Need more than "B" series.

I didn't remember having to remove the steering wheel to pull the tank, but yes you will as the rear cowl will have to be removed to get to the tank. Before going to all that work, check the area at the sending unit and at the lines. Also, if it is a diesel, there is a small hose at the top of...

The clutch housing also contains the 4 speed transmission. The Hi-Lo range is contained in what is called the transmission housing but is actually the hi-low and rear differential housing. I would say that you will have to replace the clutch housing.

In early 2000's I drove from AZ to Southern Michigan to buy an International pickup. Had been looking for this particular model for some time. Knowing that these trucks had an issue with rust, I questioned the seller a number of times on how much rust the truck had. I was always told "NO RUST"...

Have you tried RDO in Prescott? I used Az Machinery in Chandler to adjust the F & R solenoids on a 110.

Yes, welcome from a former Dewey and P. V. resident.

Kubota does NOT supply the ignition switch. You will need to find a Furukawa dealer.

It will be on top, by #3 injector, IIRC.

Temperature sending unit is at the right rear of the head.

No copper washers shown/ https://www.messicks.com/ku/86204

Where on the rocker arms do these washers go? I've never put copper washers anywhere on the valve train of a Kubota engine that I remember.

Probably "foam filled". We used to have the tires on skid steer loaders that were used in scrapping conditions foam filled. They have to be cut of the rim with a saw.

And another surprise....

This happened to my IH pickup a few years ago. I found it before I started it.

They go under the injectors. Just drop them in the hole in the head and then screw the injector in.

Those copper gaskets go on the injectors. Nothing to do with the valve seals.

A number of years ago I too the wife's jeep Commander into the local "quick lube" joints. Asked that they use Rotella, as I've run that in everything for more years than I can remember. They said no, can't do that. Bood doesn't call for it. I said fine and left. Took it to the local Jeep dealer...

I've mentioned this on here before. When I was selling Kubota a number of years ago, I had a couple come in one Saturday looking for a tractor for their horse property up in Flagstaff. Showed them both a B2920 and an L2800. I had drive them both. He drove the B first and her the L. Then they...

Arizona Public Service cools Palo Verde Nuclear Generating Station with treated sewage water from the City of Phoenix 91st Ave treatment plant. I remember when they put in the 72" pipeline. Approximately 40 miles.

A ROPS is built, tested, and CERTIFIED as a SAFTEY unit. ANY welding or drilling to the "system" alters the integrity of the system as certified and therefore will void any certification. As such, if there is an issue with rolling the tractor and something were to happen to the operator, the...

What ever you do, DO NOT weld or drill on the ROPS. Welding and drilling destroys the integrity of the ROPS. Clamp all you want.

When I worked for the Kubota-New Holland dealer, we worked on green, red, yellow, plus our own brands. It all paid the same. I did have to haul a JD 110 to the yellow JD dealer 90 miles away to have the transmission controller adjusted as it was something I wasn't comfortable doing. Didn't...

Check with your local Bobcat dealer. I know they had one available a few years ago when I was working at the dealership. Just looked, still available. https://www.bobcat.com/na/en/attachments/grader

If your pull/lift pin is mounted to a single arm with a pin that has a nut to hold it on, I would suggest adding a second pull arm and use a through pin. That way, you are pulling from 2 points on each side, rather than one. Hope this makes sense...

I also see this. I just click through it.

OK, #44 is bolt and washer, no nut. I would probably remove the starter and the complete fuel filter assembly. Don't remember if I ever had to remove the intake manifold, but don't think so. It's been about 35-40 years. I can tell you that it is a pain to get the back bolt out. Just take your time.

https://www.messicks.com/nh/138196 3 bolts, item #44. The one at the bottom will probably need a box end wrench while the back can be removed using a long extension and a universal socket. Also, if you are going to have a injection pump shop do the work, which I would highly recommend, have...

Once you remove the injection pump, DO NOT turn the engine over.

Do you need the pump for the tractor or the loader? The tractor pump is mounted on the right side of the engine and the loader pump mounts to the front frame and runs off of the crankshaft.

When I was installing TnT kits at the dealer, we used 1/4" hose for both cylinders.

Check centering spring of valve spool.

I've taken a pencil and covered all the stamped numbers to make them easier to read. Try that and then get me the numbers again. According to Tractor Data: The Ford 3000 would have an A (Belgium), B (England), or C (United States) prefix to the serial number depending on where it was built...

Let me check something and I'll let you know in a few.

Jan 27, 1967, B shift. I think that the B shift is the second shift. Also, there should be a label on the underside of the hood that opens. It will have all the info on the tractor. The raised numbers are casting pr part numbers. The Ford part number will tell you the decade and year of...

Radiator screen plugged?

A couple of things: from the engine block #1 Have them send you a pic of the "stamped" serial number. #2 Find out if it is a 3 or 4 speed transmission. 9N is a 3 speed and 8N is a 4 speed. Also, the "floor boards" came on the 8N. 9N had "foot pegs".

I've had both spray in and the full sized rubber mat. Liked them both but think that I'd go with the spray in as the whole inside of the bed is protected. Also recommend the over the lip style.

I just checked Messicks. Does NOT show discontinued. Just pricey. https://www.messicks.com/part/32771-27110?vendorcode=KU

I just checked Messicks. They have 9 in stock. This also fits a lot of other tractors. Here are the applications. https://www.messicks.com/part/NH/SBA326240330/GEAR

Wash the oil cup out and fill it to the line with what ever you run in the engine. Also, wad up a CLEAN rag and push it through the center tube to clean it out before putting the cup back on.

Keep in mind thar for the cutter to operate properly, you will want to keep the engine at the required speed. If you need to slow down, DO NOT throttle down but downshift gears.

Sight glass at the back of the rear axle center housing, to the left of the PTO shaft.

I believe the MX is considered a utility tractor. I don't foresee any problems.

Yes, Check this, https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/007/9/0/7901-kubota-mx4800.html

According to Landpride, your tractor will do just fine. https://www.landpride.com/products/157/rcf2760-&-rcf2772-series-rotary-cutters

One question....Do you have a pump stand?

1968 when I was young, dumb, and stupid, I drove straight through from northern Indiana to Phoenix in a little over 32 hours. Can't do it now.

When living in Arizona, I made trips to ND, MT, IL, MO, all to pickup International trucks that I bought.

IIRC, there was a hitch available at one time. I just looked at Kubota but didn't see one.

5th wheel trailers use a "kingpin" similar to a semi trailer. You may be able to fabricate a mount for the top of your loader bucket using a piece of flat steel with a piece of pipe welded to it as a socket for the "kingpin" to set in.

What does the insurance company say? Appears to be operators area, fenders, full instrument area, full wiring harness, loader hoses, possibly fuel tank. And I'm sure there are items that I'm missing. It does look repairable. But that is up to you and the insurance company.

IIRC, these were built by Simplicity for AC.

If you remove the filter from the cup prior to draining chances are, you can reuse it. Just DO NOT try to start it.

First, I would remove the filter and then disconnect the hose from the injection pump. Drain the fuel completely. Then fill with fresh fuel and flush the lines and filter housing. Reinstall the filter and reconnect hose to pump. Bleed system and start.

Yes, put the teflon ring in HOT water before assembly. Also, warm the piston as it will draw the heat from the seal before you can get it into place. Then set it side for a bit before trying to assemble.

Nothing really special. Just metric. Complete axle assembly has to come off to get to brakes. https://www.messicks.com/ku/84623

Definitely use the drawbar and NOT the 3 point.

I would probably use 3/8" on the grapple. Also, if it's not an issue, take both sets of top and tilt hoses to Carquest and have them made. I would think that they are 1/4". When I was doing "T-N-T" kits, I did the cylinder hoses on 1/4" and the supply hoses to the valve 3/8".

When I was selling Kubota and New Holland compacts, customers would come in looking, not sure what that wanted or needed. I would always have them operate different tractors to get a feel for the sizes and features. Had a couple come in one Saturday. They operated both a "B" and an "L" series...

Local lawn mower shop that sells BadBoy mowers has had a couple of BB tractors sitting out front. a T/L and a T/LB. Haven't stopped to look yet but driving through the parking lot, i'm NOT too impressed'

That is not a shock absorber. PS cylinder is anchored to the radius arm and mounts on the "tie rod". See the attached.

Tractor already has power steering. You can see the cylinder.

Use this and then just enter you model #. https://www.messicks.com/vendor/kubota

Yes, good choice. Since you've already purchased pallet forks, I would suggest getting a box scraper. You will probably find that you have some dirt to level out, but it will also help to counter balance your lifting load. Also, look into water filling the rear tires if not already done.

Did you change the freeze plugs in the back of the head and block. The one in the can only be accessed with the tractor split. Ask me how I know.

I would highly recommend a "reverse till" unit IE: Landpride "RTR" series. You will ind there will be a lot less "bounce" especially in hard and rocky ground. Also, you will get a better bed if you run a a little slower ground speed and let the tiller do it's job. Some people want to get it...

Pic #! stamped #'s D5011F = 4500, Diesel, No PTO , 0D10B + Built April 10, 1970 day shift. C (not G) 268477 is S/N. Pic #2 Raised #'s Casting / part numbers. Not needed for obtaining parts.

Had a customer use an old railroad flat car with out the axles and swivels. Just the frame and deck.. Would hold most anything you would want to put on it.

If the Delo 30wt is unopened, I would not be afraid to run it in the summer. When I was on the farm, we used Delo with no issues. We bought it by the barrel. To me, it is equal to Shell Rotella or Texaco Ursa. I've had no issues with any of them.

Take a look around the engine and look for a flat machined surface that will have numbers "stamped" into it. Will probably be at top of block to head area or block to oil pan. The numbers you show are casting numbers. They don't offer much help. Stamped numbers are what is needed.

Try this https://www.messicks.com/KU/85603 Item #70 in the B01301 CONTROL LEVER breakdown. JOINT, ROD END- replaces #75532-62260 JOINT,ROD END 7K530-71180 75532-62260 $13.83 10 in stock

Take a look here. From Kubota's website. https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/l47_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=10de12e8_2

I guess after it warms up a little, I'll put a small bead of clear silicone around mine.

I have a 2010 1500 Quad Cab that has the fold flat deck under the rear seat with storage compartments under the seat bottom. Right now there is water standing in the bottom of the compartments. And in the mornings it is frozen. This has been going on for the last couple of years and I haven't...

My folks bought a used 1960 Ford station wagon in 1962 that had a phone mounted on the center of the dash. My dad took it out. Then in 1968 the manager at the farm equipment store had a Motorola radio-phone in his '66 Chevy Impala, mounted on the transmission hump.

Yes, there was a test track and also had a pretty good sized dyno room. There was a service training building across the street where I helped do a major upgrade on a McConnell-Marc articulated 4WD tractor.

I've been to both AGCO tractor and implement plants in Coldwater Ohio and Independence MO. I do believe both have since shut down.

I worked at the AGCO R & D facility west of Phoenix in the early 90's. They were also using C series Cummins engines in the White tractors. AGCO took on quite a line of different brands of tractors. Need to add Gleaner into the mix also, AGCO is the acronym for ALLIS GLEANER COrp.

dodge man, back about '03-'04, I bought an IH R130 1 ton stake bed truck in Canton. Found on insurance card in the glove box made out to International Harvester. Also had a brass on the drivers door with " Canton " and a number. Truck ended up in Southern Arizona.

Make sure to use a 6 point socket on this. Gives you more surface contact.

Before removing the valve, jack that wheel up and then rotate the valve stem to the top. Makes thing a lot easier and less messy,

When I was at the pilot school in the 90's, we used a product called "wing walk". It came in different sized sheets and also in a quart can to brush on. Check with McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/nonskids/

What you are showing is a casting number not a serial number.

Question #1 Is the valve at the backhoe spring centered and where do the hoses go? Question #2 Does the selector valve on the loader control the backhoe? I used to work for a Ford dealer years ago and have operated the 4500's but it's been way too many years. I do remember the selector...

I've seen this setup quite a bit, but not too much late lately. One variation that I've seen is instead of the dump on 3rd truck, there would be a small car or pickup (Ranger) fully mounted on the 3rd truck. That way, the driver had a way to get back to his starting point. -

Yes, behind the right loader mount. I usually run (adjust) the valves with the engine running. Dropping the loader arms will make things a lot easier.

They do in Arizona. Called "Stupid Motorist Law.

check into the Kubota remotes. You can run your top and tilt with then, nothing aftermarket needed. Also agree with the HST trans.

Your info shows that you have a Kubota L2501. It should have a rigid drawbar item #10 that you would connect to.

Did your dealer break down the parts pricing for you? T/O brg? Clutch assy.? Messicks has a rebuilt clutch assembly listed for $2579.10, but depending on how bad it is, you may not need the complete clutch assy,. Just the disc, which runs $180.48 rebuilt. Or there are shops that could relined...

just did a little looking and found this: https://www.insidetheyard.com/who-makes-bad-boy-tractors/

Who gave you a $4000 estimate, and for doing what?

I did a warranty product update on a customers utility vehicle. About a 5 hour round trip plus the 45 minutes for the update. Was no charge to the customer for anything. Warranty paid travel since it was an update. Doesn't happen too often, but I've seen it a couple of times.

Should be NO loose bolts on a tiller.

When I was at the dealer (Kubota/NH), travel time and or equipment hauling was at the customers expense per the manufactures warranty. If we had someone in the area with a trailer at the time, we would try to make some type of accommodations. And at the current times, the quoted numbers probably...

Looking at the pictures, I'd have to say that it is a "black market" tractor. Parts are not available through any reputable Kubota dealer. Personally, I'd stay from it.

Most NAPA stores can make up hyd hoses. Take off needed hoses, put a tag on it so you know where it goes. Have the hose made and then put the tag from the old hose on the new one.

Having a hard time finding out what the 19-801 fits. Been a long time since I worked for the dealer and I don't have access to the books any longer. I'll keep looking and see if I can find something for you.

Yes, there should be a hole in the groove that the "hook" of the wire should set in. Once the hook is in place, you rotate the head until the end of the wire goes beyond the opening in the barrel.

Don't know why but after looking at the picture, I'm thinking that the loader is from a later tractor due to the link type mount on the axle support. But the ID tag info makes it a 3400. Leads me to believe someone mounted a later loader/backhoe on you tractor.

How did you determine you have a 765 backhoe? Also what is the loader # ? it should be on a plate on the inside of the loader arms, where the support plate is welded.

Model CU411K= 3400 diesel. no pto, 6X4 trans. Built 2F01B = June 1, 1972, Day shift. 3400 built from '65 to '75. Is your tractor blue or yellow?

2 WHEEL DRIVE WHEN ON PAVEMENT ! ! Possibly back off on the HST pedal just a bit. And just asking, were the brakes fully released?

Depending on where and how bad the cracks are, it is possible to have it welded. I know that when I was in the Phoenix area, there was a place that did very good block and head welding. Might check in with some independent truck repair shops that have been around for a number of years.

Sorry. Don't care for the Green bucket QA style.

Just saw this a few minutes ago.

Lowe's in our area has them too.

I'm a transplant to SE Tennessee from Arizona. First time cars stopped in front of me on a 4 lane highway with left turn lane for a procession going the opposite direction, I about crapped my pants. Still can't get used to it after 6 years. BTW MossRoad, I grew up in N.L.. Close to you.

IIRC, it is on the left side of the transmission housing in line with the foot rest. Just inside of the left foot.

Try Gearmore in Chino Ca. I have installed quite a few of their top and tilt kits. I have dealt with this gentleman personally when I worked for the Kubota dealer in Arizona. geno@gearmore.com- Office: 909 548-4848

Does your tractor have a loader on it? And is your blower front mount or 3 point?

When you disassemble and reassemble, make sure you keep any shims in the SAME place that they came from.

If it is leaking between the upper and lower pivots, you will need item #18-35226-43490 seal. Plus 32448-99150 gasket, 37650-43470 dust seal, 04811-50900 o'ring. Also 37720-43550 o'ring and 37650-43530 seal. These are the items that I usually used when I was at the dealership.

Don't think I'd run it if it's over filled too much. A gallon shouldn't hurt. Try draining about a gallon or two out and the check the gauge. the oil can be hard to see, but you can.

Don't remember if there is a line in that sight gauge, but start draining it until you can see the oil level drop in the gauge. Half to 3/4 in the gauge is fine. Operators manual should tell you. I've never had a problem seeing the oil in the gauge. It has a slight tan color to it.

When I was selling tractors, they ALWAYS had the tank topped off. Also at least 2 keys with fobs and I would ask if they would like a couple of caps too. I would also give the buyer about a half dozen of my cards to pass out. You would be surprised how many people would contact me from giving...

Keep in mind, when an injector is rebuilt, ie: replacing the nozzles, the assembly MUST be pressure tested and MUST be adjusted to the correct opening pressure. Also, a CLEAN work area is a MUST also. Find a reputable diesel shop do this work.

Sounds like it might be the control valve but I would trying a couple of things first. #1- Mount something on the 3pt. Doesn't need to be too heavy. Then raise it up and shut the tractor off. DO NOT LOWER the hitch and DO NOT close the drop speed valve. Measure the height. Go have a...

According to his heading, it's a Ford 1910. And with the picture he posted, I would agree. He could possibly get a wire reinforces flexible radiator hose. Possibly at a large truck shop.

Item #18 is shaft seal to keep oil/fuel out of the crankcase. Need to pull the injection pump to replace. Sounds like fuel is leaking past the plungers in the pump. Will over fill the lube oil in the pump and force it past the seal #18. Would suggest sending the pump to a pump repair shop.

Sounds like it's the seals on the 3pt life piston. Definitely time to see your dealer.

Low or no engine oil pressure. It will always come on when the key is turned on, before starting engine. Not the reason for not turning over. Make sure the F-R lever is in neutral.

Suggest a Landpride DH1572 with notched blades, depending on what you are discing. Weighs in at 714# with 18" blades. The 1920 hitch is rated at 1881 lbs. Also, would recommend loading the rear tires. Will make a big difference.

"45021F" will be a 4500. IIRC, the backhoe is a 752, but don't hold me to it.

According to parts manual, the shut off valve , item #20, in the bottom of the tank, there is a screen attached that sticks up into the tank. Held in place with 2 small bolts. Disconnect the fuel line and then remove the 2 bolts and pull the valve out. Hopefully you don't have much fuel in the...

I just did some looking and Kubota does list 13.6-16 Turf available for the rear on the L245DT, but I could not come up with the matching front tires. I do remember having customers with turf tires on their L245DT. This was back in the 80's, so it's taxing the brain to remember the correct size.

The 11.2-24 tire is an R1 tire or an ag tire with lugs. Either style "ag" or "turf" were available for your tractor. Keep in mind that the front tires NEED to match the style of the rear tires. On the turf style, the front tires don't necessarily have to be the diamond pattern but do need to be...

It may have to do with the deck wheel mounting locations. It's possible that the deck wheels are positioned to where they are actually outside of the rear tires and behind the leading edge, therefore when moving the tires out with the spacers, the deck wheel will hit the tire. A wider deck would...

That knob only controls the drop speed of the 3 pt hitch. Has nothing to do with the loader.

Not trying to be a smart a**, but are you plugging the hoses in correctly? IIRC, the hoses were color coded. As you pull back on the lever, the lift cylinders will extend. Do they?

Have you been able to connect all 4 hoses? Also, with the tractor shut off, are you able to move the lever back and forth sideways? Looking at your picture, it still looks like the lever is in the detent position. Also, have you checked to see if the lever lock is unlocked? That is the small 90...

Lever is probably locked into the detent position. Take the palm of your hand and slap the lever sharply to unlock it. then try mounting your loader.

We were in north central Arizona. Elevation about 3300 feet. The Verde river ran right past the park. We did get some snow and winter temps high 20's - low 30's at night some. Would use heat tape on water line. It didn't use much elec so just left it plugged in. Only problem was the black water...

Late wife and I lived in a 38' triple slide 5th. wheel for about 3 years about 10 years ago. Had it in a nice small park. Had everything we needed. Elec, cable tv, phone. Had a couple of the tall propane tanks that I had filled every few months. Had a concrete slab in front. Did have an 8x12...

When I had a '41 International K2 pickup, my dad switched it an 8 volt. Used the original starter, generator, gauges, and lights. All he did was to adjust the voltage up to 8 volts. Made a difference in starting. BTY, it had a later SD220 ohv engine inplace of the original GRD214 flathead.

If you go with a flatbed on your existing truck, check the distance from the front bumper to the back of the rear wheels of the SxS, then get a bed at least that length. Also, you will want to figure the overhang so that when you make a turn, you don't "meet" the front of your trailer. Also...

In the late 70's early 80's, my dad pulled a 25', single axle Mitchell 5th wheel and flat towed a '46 Jeep with a late 70's Ford F100. Don't remember what engine. He pulled all over central and southern Arizona, all types of terrain.

Find your local Interstate battery dealer. I they don't have one, they can get it.

Take your old one into NAPA. They should be able to fix you up.

It's been so since I've been around one of these that I really don't remember what it's for. Maybe someone else can chime in.

There is a plastic filter screen in the back end of the injection pump where the fuel line comes in. Item #30 in this breakdown. Check and make sure that it is clean. A lot of people don't realize that it's there. https://www.messicks.com/NH/138318?sectionId=286628&diagramId=1084848

Melroe/Bobcat did pickup Midmark but I don't remember when. According to your picture of the manual, it had to be prior to March of 1987. I do remember working on white Bobcat Midmark trenchers when working for the BC dealer,

I used to move mobile home in central Arizona and never once blew a tire.

I would suggest a 66" reverse till. I had a Landpride RTR54 reverse till on my B7800 and it worked wonders in fairly heavy sod. Forward till has a tendency to bounce in hard material.

If you're going to replace any hoses, I would suggest that as you take them off, number the hose and number the location where it goes. Then take them to your local hydraulic supply. They should be able to make up anything you need. Also, if the hoses are original, they should have a Case part...

Yes, raising loader bucket is needed as a general rule.

Doesn't upset me. Was just trying to say that you should be able to move some dirt with the bucket. And yes, the swing is not as strong as you would think.

Suggestion: Have your sales person come out and observe you operating the unit and then inform you if you are doing anything incorrectly And yes, you should be able to "sweep" dirt back into a hole.

Don't know about MI, but in most states, if you are planning on moving it on a public roadway, it will need to be tagged as a trailer. Whole new can of worms.

If your backhoe is Kubota, it will be a frame mounted, not a 3 point mount. I have install more Kubota backhoes than I care to remember. If everything is correct you should be able to lift the rear of the tractor when the BH dipper is 1/2 half way extended and the boom down. Should even be able...

Try putting the Hi-Low lever in neutral. Even though the HST pedal is centered, there will still be rolling resistance.

Do you leave the transmission in neutral?

You should be able to lift the rear wheel off the ground and then move the tractor forwards, rearward, or sideways with the backhoe. I've done it with a little BX unit. If you can't do this then there may be something wrong. I have dug trenches with a B7800 tlb and moved the tractor forward with...

Full hydraulic steering will have drift to the steering wheel. I don't remember what the acceptable rate is. As mentioned above, check with your local dealer's service dept.

What tires do you have on your tractor?