Bought another ECHO...

[5030]

Dont forget to keep the foam filters oiled. Belray filter oil is one of the best oils to use.

How about K&N filter oil, I have quite a bit of that on the shelf?

 

[xyz123]

How about K&N filter oil, I have quite a bit of that on the shelf?

You do what you want. But that was a oil that was to be avoided for foam chainsaw filter oil.

K&N oil would get sucked from the filters into carbs.

Straight info from a west coast logger and porter years back I was talking too.

Which filter oil to use on those foam filters.

Jason Egan = belray foam filter oil. You want the nastiest, tackiest oil u can find. When cleaning, soak filter in gas to cut the oil, then run under water to restore the filters shape

me = what brand was it that was getting suked into the carbs ?

JE = k&n

JE = Filter is only as good as the oil you’re using. If the oil is thin and not tacky, you’ll pull oil out of the filter. A dry filter doesn’t filter. You can use any oil you like, but you’ll be re oiling all the time
Using belray, I’d clean/re oil my filter 1-2/month. That’s was running saw at 30hrs/week

 

[xyz123]

With above said. My son uses Klotz air filter oil. Thats what the kart guy carries. It has been good for his dirt uses.
But if he is at my place we put belray on them.

You can tell why good oils are needed. Have $1500 in a $150 motor when done with them. Stock appearing 212cc.

 

[5030]

A sharp chain obviously makes a big difference but it doesn’t change the fact that the stock 590 won’t cut with the stock 6100.

Mine is not stock. Matter of fact I modded it even before it was started the first time and right now I have it on Tru-Fuel 40-1 which is my go to break in mix. I'll run a couple tanks and then go to 50-1 Red Armor canned fuel. Even running a bit rich and slightly 4 stroking, it has no issue pulling the entire 20" bar in a rip cut. Right from the get go, I modded the muffler, added the Nick Stoekel oil foam air cleaner and velocity stack, changed the ignition coil and put in the 5 degree offset flywheel key. All my saws I fiddle with including my Stihl's. They especially get a muffler gut. Have zero experience with a 6100 to even compare.

 

[5030]

Its not "synthetic" fuel.
It uses a synthetic oil for its mix.
Most of these products are ethanol free but rather expensive for what they are.
A gallon of VP 4 cycle here in this wacko coastal state where I live is $26 per gallon.

I use canned fuel because mine don't get run everyday or every week either sometimes they sit for a month or 2 at a lick and I don't want phase separation issues with ethanol so I don't use it and I don't find 20 bucks a gallon to be overpriced either because I don't use that much in the first place.

 

[5030]

What is the billet muffler mod?

You mean on a 590? You take the muffler off and carefully remove the spot welded on last baffle that is spot welded to the exhaust deflector and add a couple elongated holes (I use a dremel) inside the muff directly across from the muffler. You can also buy a billet aluminum deflector inlet from SawitAgain but being the cheap person I am, I just modded the stock deflector. Modding the stock deflector allows me to keep the spark screen intact as well. Sounds real nice too. Not obnoxious, just a deep throaty rumble. Least my 590 don't have a cat inside the can but I expect that is coming as well. Like I said, I was ripping oak logs the full bar length and there was no slowing down with the saw what so ever.

My CS top handle did and why I had to replace the muffler entirely. Basically impossible to get the cat out of the muffler without really buggering it up.

 

[Rustyiron]

All a 590 needs is this simple free muffler mod using parts it comes with. Split the deflector. Remove the inner section that is reversed. No need to spend money.

Some like to remove the inner one and use for base for the outer once the little inner part is removed and opened up. Then set back under the top portion. I dont do that as I didnt have any issues.

Now full blown way is remove the inner tube. But I found just putting the hole behind original tube suffice.

If you dont do either of the above you havent really gained anything.

Pull the epa carb stops to retune carb. They come so lean from factory.

View attachment 803861

You sound like a "saw guy", I was needing fill a 60cc "hole"
in my collection (either my fav 044 is getting heavy or I'm getting weaker) and I opted for the echo 620. The internet and YouTube guys were saying that it's basically a ported 590TW with less plastic and an adjustable bar oil pump. Would you agree with this. I'm a year into owning one and I really like it. Not to mention the $600 out the door price.

 

[xyz123]

You sound like a "saw guy", I was needing fill a 60cc "hole"
in my collection (either my fav 044 is getting heavy or I'm getting weaker) and I opted for the echo 620. The internet and YouTube guys were saying that it's basically a ported 590TW with less plastic and an adjustable bar oil pump. Would you agree with this. I'm a year into owning one and I really like it. Not to mention the $600 out the door price.

620 is worth the extra 150-200 or so IMO. 620 has better porting and the hotrod compared to 590. Both have adjustable oiler. Metal handle, rim drum. There is some other things but would need to check my old info saved.

Oh better coil, carb too.

Most here dont need this info.
620 590 45mm x 37.6mm

 

[arrow]

I use canned fuel because mine don't get run everyday or every week either sometimes they sit for a month or 2 at a lick and I don't want phase separation issues with ethanol so I don't use it and I don't find 20 bucks a gallon to be overpriced either because I don't use that much in the first place.

My state doesn’t allow e-free gas at any pumps.l don’t think Ma. or Ct. does either so l can’t even travel abit to get it.
I can see your point for limited use but l go thru about 5 gals per year so $150 instead of $30 is tough for me to swallow.
W hen l was logging, we’d go thru 5 gals per day.

 

[5030]

No Menards here on the East coast.
True Fuel is a specially blended gasoline product using high octane fuels w/o ethanol.
It uses synthetic oil mix.
Red Armor does the same.
If we are considering what we get at the pump in most states as "conventional", then your statement is correct with "conventional" meaning ethanol laced but non derived from a lab.
Unless someone invented a "synthetic" gasoline that we don't know about yet, I know of no other gasoline product that hasn't come from an oil derivative pumped out of the ground including the alkylates.

If you delve a bit deeper into the 'canned' fuels, you discover that none of them contain conventional gas at all. They are all chemically different from any pump gas. I quit using pump gas years ago myself. If I was a volume user which I'm not, I would use non ethanol regular pump gas and Echo Red Armor pre mix. Echo Red armor has the least amount of ash in it, thus the exhaust port stays free of and deposits as well a as the spark arrestor screen.

I can let my saws sit for extended periods with Echo Red Armor canned fuel in the tanks (not I keep them topped off as well) and they all start on the first or second pull, no issue. Interestingly, my ancient 028 WB likes the canned fuel much better as well. It actually idles now. I'll probably need to Vac test it soon. I cannot believe the crank seals are not leaking after 45+ years.