Building a Snow Plow :)

rgs03833 · Dec 22, 2011

Hi guys....

I'm planning to build a Snow Plow for my Riding MTD today, snow on Saturday... YUCK!!!

Here are the Parts and Ideas...

It will be out of Wood. 2X4 and 2X6 for Blade 1x10 and 1X6 (non-treated)

Swirl Left or Right 30 Degree with Locking Pin for Support...

Lift up for backing up with a 65W 12v DC Motor with a small children Bike for parts to use the Gear and Chain as Pulley (may not work).

Also, the Curve Blade will be about 22" height and 46" long because of sidewalk and 1X6 (non-treated) as Blade it might NOT be able to handle heavy Snow.

I could buy one, but for $300.00 kinda pricey. I have bunch of Woods for Free and the Guy who sold me the House left bunch of Tools, Nuts and Bolts, Screws..... He died, his daughter gave it all to me.

I'm looking for suggestions and ideas... I will post pix later.... including Drawing... Anyone done it before? I have seen some on YouTube, but kinda sucks cause they don't really show it all, just the finished product and plowing

. Some are really Bad in design.

I want mine to be as close as they are them snow Plow Truck... Just out of Wood instead.

Thank you !!!

<u>UPDATE WITH PHOTO</u>

KubotainNH · Dec 22, 2011

I'm not sure where you are from for snow amounts but the toughest thing will be getting traction with a ride-on mower. It's so easy to have one tire spin when just moving around the yard. You'll need chains and quite a bit of weight on the back. I used to have a steel plow on my rear wheel drive only Honda Fourtrax. It had tire chains and cinder blocks on the rear rack. It did ok but mainly because it would drive both wheels plus you could easily get some speed up by goosing the throttle. One thing I added that helped was bolting an old roll-up sled to the blade so the snow would slide off better. As for lift, it takes quite a bit to lift a plow when moving snow. The Honda has a lever you pull and a couple pulleys a cable runs through to lift it. I've broken that cable multiple times. Add some pics and we can give comments.

One other thought, it may be quicker & easier to cut a plow out of a 50 gallon drum if you have any laying around.

Craig Clayton · Dec 22, 2011

I am always interested in building projects, and you are also keen.
I have been an active member of this site for a few years. But I have almost quit the site a few times, and I have gotten into a few verbal ( text ) scraps.
Many people are very helpful, but at the other end of the scale a small number of people lay in wait for you to publish a technical error and you get raked over the coals.

I put an idea out there about building an electric lawn tractor and I stated I would be using a electric motor of 1/2HP permanent magnetic when I meant 1 HP with a provisor that it used to power a industrial floor sweeper that weighed maybe 450 LBS. ( I hold 2 trade licenses)
Your wooden blade might have a few short falls but the only way to learn is to build.
In your design you might use a tip up hand lever to raise the blade. You could use a steel edge on the wood blade.
Traction will be a problem for the tractor without chains and maybe wheel weights. I am not sure if your rear axle can handle the extra weight.
I would suggest you keep the blade as narrow as possible ie equal to your tractors width. Fluffy snow is fun but wet heavy snow is terrible, because the tractor wheels spin on the wet snow and the snow is packed and heavy.

Craig Clayton

gmbracing · Dec 23, 2011

you could build the moldboard frame out of wood and a steel edge and cover it with the plastic from a sled like suggested above. How about a cheap hf winch for the lift like an ATV would use. I would use hardwood for the a-frame
and supports.

rgs03833 · Dec 23, 2011

++++++++++++++++++++ UPDATE WITH PHOTO BELOW ++++++++++++++++++

These are as followed:

0_FRONT_VIEW
1_SIDE_VIEW
2_LIFT_BRACKET
3_30_DEGREE_ANGLE
4_TOTAL_VIEW
5_BLADE_FRONT
6_BLADE_SIDE
7_SNOW_BLADE_BRACE
LED_LIGHT

OK, I did it this far today December 23, 2011

There are a few problems and concerns that i'm facing;

1.

30 degree Angle (Pix number 3) if you look really close, it hit the back of my Bracket, this was designed for taking the force that is from the Blade and transfer it to there for Bracing / Weight. If I cut it, that force will just rely on the BOLT that is BOLTED to the front where it pivet.

I can't turn the Blade because it's too tight. If I cut it off a bit i'm concerned about the weight of the snow

. My original plan was to put a PUSH PIN there so it will LOCKED to take some weights. But still haven't decided yet where to mount it to. If successful, I can only turn the Blade about 15 degree

. Please help on this one, LOL

Also, I am planning to add the Motor to this area. This is where i'm planning to mount the Bracket to raise the Blade.

2.

Pix number 2.

The Bracket that will lift the Blade up and down might be too WEAK for snow. With this Bracket, it will give the Blade about 110 to 140 degree upward, which is more than enough to BACK UP or even use the Blade as a shovel. My only problem to this is the WEIGHT of the snow and might be too weak.

3.

Pix number 7.

I can BRACE the Blade with the Bracket Brace, was planning about 1 feet apart.

Also, the Fiber Glass Garden divider will be use as the BLADE EDGE. This will be easy to mount and drill for future replacement because of Wear and Tear.

4.

Pix number 5.

This is the Blade, I will cut the top off, not sure yet. I might be able to use it for something... The 2x4 is pressure treated is to mount it in the back where it will take all the force from snow. My only concern is that it might crack the 1x10and 1x8 boards since it's not pressure treated woods, just plain old Pine. The reason i use this is because of Weight issues. Too heavy to lift for backing up for a 12V motor even without snow. I can get a Winch, but that is money i don't want to spend, LOL. i want it to be FREE...

The wheels will be mounted on each side of the blade for moving purposes... about 1- 1/2" up from bottom.

P.S. The CAPS I use here is to Distinct what I am talking about, i'm not yelling, LOL

THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all your thoughts and ideas... It really gets me thinking, LOL. Also, I took all you guys ideas as to Knowlege, not Criticism. So please don't hesitate to give me your opinions

LD1 · Dec 23, 2011

Interesting idea, and since it is free for you, what the heck right?

But I really dont see it lasting more than a season or two.

Keep a keen eye on craigslist. I see them little ATV/garden tractor plows come up quite often for $100 or less.

May take a little creative fab work to get it hooked up, but will be much stronger an last longer.

KubotainNH · Dec 23, 2011

Looks well thought out. So instead of lifting the blade the frame will be stationary and the blade will just tilt via the hinges? If so, that shouldn't take too much power to do. looks like you could trim the center wood for more pivot without compromising much. You need it strong on the grain line by the pivot bolt, not a big deal at the pointed tip that moves. These are my thoughts for you.

1)Screw a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum sheet metal to the pivot board between it and the frame. Run the pivot bolt though the middle of it and counter sink the screws used to attach it to that same board. This does 2 things, keeps the wood from splitting easily and makes for a slippery surface for the wood to slide on when pivoting. Without something sandwiched between the 2 pieces of wood it will not move easily because of the swelling wood and rough surface.

2)Make the frame so when the plow is tilted down that the back below the hinges rests against something strong. The hinges should be ok as long as all they do is tilt the blade and not bear any pressure from pushing snow.

Do you have a paved drive?

PILOON · Dec 23, 2011

I am afraid that your sides being fastened to the ends of the 'blade' will not hold together.
I suspect the first load that wants to tilt the blade will tear them out.
Suggest that the verticals be behind the 'blade' and they in turn be the hinged point.
I would not be all that concerned in creating a dished style blade but would rather suggest a straight flat pusher and I doubt your front end is heavy enough to prevent a snow load from skidding your tractor sideways.
In other words go for a flat straight push.

Good luck, have fun.

rgs03833 · Dec 23, 2011

KubotainNH said:
Looks well thought out. So instead of lifting the blade the frame will be stationary and the blade will just tilt via the hinges? If so, that shouldn't take too much power to do. looks like you could trim the center wood for more pivot without compromising much. You need it strong on the grain line by the pivot bolt, not a big deal at the pointed tip that moves. These are my thoughts for you.

1)Screw a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum sheet metal to the pivot board between it and the frame. Run the pivot bolt though the middle of it and counter sink the screws used to attach it to that same board. This does 2 things, keeps the wood from splitting easily and makes for a slippery surface for the wood to slide on when pivoting. Without something sandwiched between the 2 pieces of wood it will not move easily because of the swelling wood and rough surface.

2)Make the frame so when the plow is tilted down that the back below the hinges rests against something strong. The hinges should be ok as long as all they do is tilt the blade and not bear any pressure from pushing snow.

Do you have a paved drive?

Hi all and Mike.

Yes Mike, you are dead on correct on... " So instead of lifting the blade the frame will be stationary and the blade will just tilt via the hinges? "

According to my first thoughts, it shouldn't take too much power at all, just rasing the Blade, and also it rest on top of the Pivet / Moving board 2x8.

Answer to 1)

In the hole where I put the Bolt through, I have Washers and also where I drilled the Center hole of the 2x8 center piece. I cut a 1 3/4" water copper pipe and jammed it in there. This will help to make the Bolt move freely inside, also there are Washers sandwiched between the 2x4. I thought about the Wood spliting, gonna put a piece of Metal on top and bottom of that, you read my mind Mike... Did not think about Weather and Moisture Swelling, thank you for that thought Mike

Answer to 2)

When the Blade / Plow is down. it will rest on the 2x8 Center piece where you see the Bolt at. Although the Hinges is only for raising, it does rest but it does take a little bit of back and fourth motion. I did it this way just incase I have to replace the hinges or the Plow Blade. My only concern is now I hope the Blade don't hit something hard and ruin the non-pressure 1x6, LOL

I live in Haverhill, MA. Close to you Mike, LOL and I do have a paved Driveway about 20X80 feet. But i'm planning to help the people around here and do some of my Neighbors front Sidewalk, cause most of them won't do it. sometimes that makes me mad, LOL. I also have a corner lot. I like to do the Sidewalk too... I would say about 6x200 feet of it

I have a BAD BACK, so that is why I'm doing this... If the Blade failed. I'm gonna make just a straight board and just push the snow, LMAO

I got so much Woods laying around, 2x4, 2x6, 2x10 also bunch of 1x6 Deck board... As you can see in the pix, my Tractor is sitting on a big Deck... The old Guy / Owner, I think he was obsessed with Wood, LOL

It's cold out today, gonna Moddify some of you guys ideas... I will post pix tomorrow

Thank you!!!

Craig Clayton · Dec 23, 2011

I have been looking at our pictures with interest. I now see what you are planning.

I made a copy of a Power King tractor and it worked but with limitations. When I added a Front End Loader and money was limited I used many used / surplus /car parts.
I had a older fellow worker over and I showed him my lift action. He was still very strong for his age and he was from an old european country. He said it was not strong enough and he said he could hold it down. So as I pulled the up lever and it was passing his waist height he put his strength to the bucket and he was steadily lifted off the ground.

I made the front lift cylinder from a single cylinder and I had to work around an engine.
I showed the lift action to some friends ( they supplied the cylinder ) and they had concerns that the action would not work. As they watched it rise up to its full 4' lift they commented Yup it works.
My tractor was returned to the surplus stream (scrape metal bin).
Bought a 8N ,sold it, bought a Kubota added a backhoe which I built a sub frame for.

Craig Clayton