Compressed air lines in garage

[v8dave]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If copper is used will the soldier ever crack on the joints at the outlets from pluging and unpluging the hose. I know it has to be clamped tight but there still will be some movement. )</font>

That's why you use "drop eared ells at . . . stub downs" as Gordon suggests. Screw the ears to the wall to take the connect/disconnect load off the pipes.

 

[Boondox]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Pete three main choices when it comes to copper. Type M copper with red lettering on the side has the thinnest walls. Type L with blue lettering on the side walls is thicker. Type K has green lettering on the side and it's the thickest.

Type m is rated for more than ample pressure, but to be on the safe side I would opt for L tubing and use drop eared ells at my stub downs.

My two cents
Gordon

)</font>

No way to avoid sounding ignorant here, but what exactly is a drop eared ell?

Pete

 

[CTyler]

Has anyone checked into pricing on Polybutene for airline?

 

[PineRidge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Pete three main choices when it comes to copper. Type M copper with red lettering on the side has the thinnest walls. Type L with blue lettering on the side walls is thicker. Type K has green lettering on the side and it's the thickest.

Type m is rated for more than ample pressure, but to be on the safe side I would opt for L tubing and use drop eared ells at my stub downs.

My two cents
Gordon

)</font>

No way to avoid sounding ignorant here, but what exactly is a drop eared ell?

Pete )</font>

Pete check the picture.

 

[gordon]

Here is a picture of a drop eared elbow with a little different angle.


The ears are meant to be mounted to some solid structure, such as a piece of wood blocking or steel plate. The threaded end will accept the pipe nipple going to your water separator or your quick disconnect air outlet depending on your setup.

If your going to have just a quick disconnect and not some sort of filter/water separator at your drop make sure to put a tee with a valve at the bottom to drain the water out. If you were looking at the pipe going down the wall it would be as follows. Pipe running down the wall to the tee and out of the side of the tee a pipe a few inches long going to a 90 looking up then a short piece of pipe to the drop eared ellbow screwed to something solid. Out of the bottom of the tee at least a six inch piece of pipe going to a valve for a drip leg. Sort of like a J with a tail. That way you still have a drip leg.---Does that make sense?? ---If not I'll lay out the fittings and take a pic and post it for ya. there are a ton of different ways to do it properly that is just one idea how. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif


Hope this helps
Gordon

 

[DonS]

Boondox, Thanks for asking I didn't know either.
Gordon, Looking forward to seeing the layout pics.

Thanks,

 

[DonS]

Piping Diagrams and Tips

http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

 

[Boondox]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Piping Diagrams and Tips

http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm
)</font>

Wow, that's a great reference page! Thanks! Pete

 

[DonS]

Here is a pic of my compressor shed i'm working on. Made a 3x3 concrete slab for it, still needs a door. The silicone on the wall is suppose to dry clear. I'm going to line it with styrofoam to keep the noise down and install a outlet box with a switch inside the garage to turn it on and off.

Probably have to wait untill spring to paint it. Its all woods behind me so no one can complain. The pipe work is the next
project.

Compressor Shed

 

[DonS]

Finished Shed, It took longer than I expected.

Compressor Shed 2