Creating a property map

[dodge man]

I agree, if you print it in a large format it will get pretty grainy.

 

[MossRoad]

The only way I know how to get around the graininess is to divide the property into sections and take screenshots of each section. Then stitch those screenshots together in a photo editing program, or a graphics program. You have to make a new file that is the same size as you want to print, then lay in the screenshots. You can shrink them down to fit in the new file if you need to, but never zoom them up, as that's when you lose the resolution.

 

[John_Mc]

I use Google Earth Pro (it's free, not to be confused with Google Maps). I don't really like their smartphone app, but accessing it from their desktop app works well for me.

Originally, to define my property boundaires, I found the survey pins with a handheld GPS and recorded the location. I then recreated those waypoints by manually entering them after clicking on the waypoint icon in Google Earth. Then I used the polygon tool in Google Earth to "connect the dots" and draw my property outline. It was a bit clunky, but this was years ago, and my GPS would not connect with my Mac Computer to upload the data. It's still possible to do things that way, but there are easier ways now.

You can use a smarphone app like GaiaGPS to gather the data: the free version will let you record waypoints, or walk trails and record them, you can then access GaiaGPS via a web browser on your desktop computer. It will display on a map, and you can choose various background laters (I usually choose USGS Topo for my background, since the satellite view of my property mostly just shows an unbroken forest canopy, other than at the house, yard and pond.) GaiaGPS does have a pay version that gives you more choices for background layers - including parcel boundaries. It runs $40/year. If I were just interested in my own parcel or a couple in my neighborhood, I'd just find pins and manually enter data for parcel boundaries. As an alternative, if I didn't want to spring for the $40/year, I'd buy it for one year and draw in the boundaries I wanted by copying what was displayed, save that data, then let the susbcription run out at the end of the year. (Some towns or counties have parcel data available in a form you may be able to import as well, either into GaiaGPS or Google Earth)

GaiaGPS on the smartphone is handy while hiking, or when trying to lay out a new trail, since you can see where you are on your property. I set it to record when walking my trails, and now have a record of my trail network. Since I like Google Earth's map display & editing options better, I export the data from GaiaGPS as a KML file (which is Google Earth's file format) and bring it in to Google Earth. I can edit the trail data to correct errors, or if I'm feeling ambitious, I'll record the same trail multiple times, then draw the best fit of these recordings in Google Earth (this helps overcome some of the GPS errors inherent in consumer GPS units or smartphones.) See below is what I end up with from Google Earth displayed on a Satellite photo. It shows property boundaries, trails, and I have "enhanced" the wetlands and streams to make them show up better. I also have a lot of other data, such as layers showing the stands in my forest management plan, obstacles on our obstacle course, problem areas where trails need to be rerouted or repaired, and the location of various places of interest (such as an ancient Sugar Maple or a porcupine den). I leave those layers turned off most of the time.

Since I'm not nuts about what I've found for options within Google Earth for displayin gthis on a topo map, I export my Google Earth data as a KML file, and input it into CalTopo. After tweaking some display settings (choose "Map Builder Topo" and turn on 10 ft contour intervals, edit colors of displayed data, etc.), here is what I get for the same general area (includes my neighbor's property to the north). I can export this to a JPG file (as shown here) or a geo-referenced PDF.

Other than the subscription to GaiaGPS premium service to get the parcel data, all of the above is free (I can't recall if I paid $5 or so for the GaiaGPS app without the parcel data, but the basic service is free these days).

There is a bit of learning curve, but it's a lot easier than learning how to use dedicated GIS software. I still come across interesting features, from time to time.

Just remember that none of the data you see in any of these apps is "survey grade". You can use it to get close to your property line, but don't rely solely on it to show you where to build a fence or to establish the boundaries of a timber harvest. I've found places where the boundaries shown are shifted by 50 feet or more. Similarly, the data you gather with a handheld GPS or smartphone GPS app will get you close, but not right on. Use it to get you close, but then look for better information: survey pins, blazes on trees, or old fences referenced in a property survey.

 

[John_Mc]

BTW, if you are unhappy with the resolution of some of your maps, you can stitch smaller maps together, as others have mentioned. Another option is to see if whatever app you are using has a premium option with higher resolution. I know that CalTopo does. I believe GaiaGPS and Google Earth do, but have not explored that.

 

[old and tired]

If you go the route of saving multiple screen shots, save them as PNG files and NOT, Jpeg. Jpeg will compress the file (to save space) which will decrease the resolution. Saving the same photo in Jpeg, decreases the quality each time it's saved.

 

[jjeff]

lots of knowledgeable folks here, I'm not a surveyor and don't do property lines Ill map them if the person knows where they are though. rather what I do is Map what's in the persons property. The end result is sending a pdf file to a website like Poster Burner where a large laminated wall map is made for a customer. The key for what I do is being able to upload the gps shape files onto mapping software with overlaying satellite imagery, that allows editing, labeling etc. Getting to the final stage of this process is time consuming and there is quite a few pieces of pricey equipment which will eventually be streamlined once equipment needs replacement.

 

[MasseyFerg231]

You can do like the old aerials, take one large overall (lower resolution) say of 36”x42”. You can then print out say 4 sheets that zoom in on the area.
If you save the file as a PDF instead of print screen your resolution should not dimenish.

 

[airbiscuit]

Here is my Huntstand map (free version). They can print out large size maps.
You might also check out a shop that makes signs. They can print out pretty good stuff o a variety of backings (aluminum, steel, PVC, etc.)

 

[John_Mc]

If you go the route of saving multiple screen shots, save them as PNG files and NOT, Jpeg. Jpeg will compress the file (to save space) which will decrease the resolution. Saving the same photo in Jpeg, decreases the quality each time it's saved.

The format in which you save is important (and in most cases, PNG is better than JPG. In the best case, JPG could be "as good as" PNG.)

However, I'd recommend not saving a screen shot at all. Often the underlying data is higher resolution than what you see on the screen (which is why you can zoom in and not have things get blurry or blocky. Many of these apps allow you to save or export an image. Often that saved image is higher resolution than the displayed screen.

 

[Skeans1]

A good one I haven’t seen mentioned yet is OnXhunt it shows boundary lines as well as being able to drop your pins. You are also able to download the maps for offline use, it’s an app I use in conjunction with a few others for working in the woods.