DIY logging winch build

[ericm979]

Could I put a bug in your ear for your next build? Or even to glean a few ideas on this one.

Call the US Forest Service research center and ask for the free plans for the "Bitterroot Yarder". While at it ask for the bigger Yarder as well.

I had to look that up, I found this:

8351-235-MTDC: Bitterroot Miniyarder for Light Forest Materials

 

[FarmWrench]

Call them and they will send complete blueprints, and parts.

Locally walenstine (spelling?) Skidding winch (next to heaviest model, sits on the kiote dealer's lot for $4500.

No one, has a dual line yarding capable winch outside of $50k and east side of the Rockies.

 

[davedj1]

I'm also interested to see how your build goes; I'm considering a recovery winch for the tractor as I have managed to get stuck a few times.
So much to think about though...

I want to dig out an old pond with the fel, but the odds of getting stuck are about 10/1 [in favor of]. And there are trees to anchor to.

Keep in mind that if your cable or rope breaks or comes free, it will snap back towards the tractor with massive force and speed. that's why those winches have big heavy shields.
I'm sure you know all that, but as I didn't see it stated in the thread I had to add it anyway.

I would mount a 12v electric winch with synthetic rope on the back of the tractor, probably be your best bet for the occasional drag out of the mud, or chain a 4x4 to the tire

 

[davedj1]

Could I put a bug in your ear for your next build? Or even to glean a few ideas on this one.

Call the US Forest Service research center and ask for the free plans for the "Bitterroot Yarder". While at it ask for the bigger Yarder as well.

Appreciate the insight. I am not going to be logging however. I will check it out though, never know when a good idea will jump out at ya. I just got off the phone with them and ordered a set. I was intrigued at the "built with common items" part.

 

[davedj1]

Here is how the clutch will be engaged, it's very similar to some name brands. The center wedge will have a handle on it. Those wedges were cut out of the 2 1/2" DOM and 1" washers from TSC were welded on. The two bolts are to tighten and adjust the clutch.

OH, I did call on the Farmi clutch discs for a 351, there are six pads that look like brake pads, they are $40 each and the rivets are $2.50 each and you need 12 of them, I politely thanked them and said good bye. The local "dealer" for Farmi doesn't stock anything in fact they don't even list it on their website. Both places I called had to order them in from Farmi and they would take a week or so to get. I guess that's good that they last 20 years or more!
I'm having serious thoughts about just buying some cheap brake pads for a Ford Explorer or the like and bolting them on. Or just go ahead and try the clutch from a 90's Camaro.

 

[mark in portugal]

A "recovery" winch isn't such a bad idea on a tractor, but a recovery winch makes a poor skidding winch!

That's the difference...

SR

I understand that, but there are also a lot of similarities in mechanics and construction.
Quandaries I wrestle with; altering the direction of torque of the pto 90 degrees, lowering the ratio enough, and safety control.
I'm thinking maybe a chain cogwheel instead of a cable drum, as it might be light enough to wrestle onto the tractor in the field.
And of course, how to keep within my budget of just a tad over zero.

 

[mark in portugal]

Yes, I've chained logs to the wheels several times; just the day before yesterday in fact.
It usually works, but it deep mud sometimes the whole log just slides under. Also it's sort of yucky.

This is a 4 ton 4wd tractor with 5' od rear tires, and if a 12v winch exists that could pull it, then it would cost FAR more than I can pay.
A big hydraulic might work, but anything like that is rare and totally expensive here in Portugal.

 

[FarmWrench]

Have you considered cleaning the muck out of the pond with a silt scoop? Slackline excavator style. Have a second machine pull the scoop out via cable haul the silt back with the bigger machine.

Check deep in the Heavy Equipment forum.

 

[davedj1]

Got the handle welded on

 

[pmsmechanic]

OH, I did call on the Farmi clutch discs for a 351, there are six pads that look like brake pads, they are $40 each and the rivets are $2.50 each and you need 12 of them, I politely thanked them and said good bye. The local "dealer" for Farmi doesn't stock anything in fact they don't even list it on their website. Both places I called had to order them in from Farmi and they would take a week or so to get. I guess that's good that they last 20 years or more!
I'm having serious thoughts about just buying some cheap brake pads for a Ford Explorer or the like and bolting them on. Or just go ahead and try the clutch from a 90's Camaro.

That sure sounds like ceramic clutch pads. If your worried about the clutch holding look into using either a double disc setup or a ceramic clutch.

Difference between Organic Clutches and Ceramic Clutches

Clutch Kits - Ceramic Disc Material - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Friction Materials

 

[davedj1]

That sure sounds like ceramic clutch pads. If your worried about the clutch holding look into using either a double disc setup or a ceramic clutch.

Difference between Organic Clutches and Ceramic Clutches

Clutch Kits - Ceramic Disc Material - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Friction Materials

Thank you for the info, I am more worried about not being able to apply enough pressure to have it grip, the clutch disk will be fastened to the sprocket and the drum will slide over against it with pressure.

 

[mark in portugal]

I have an antique winch on an old barge; the geometry is designed so that the torque of the drum adds pressure to the clutch [which is leather!].
Any possibility of that in your build?
Not the leather, just the pressure.

I needed a brake for a machine I made [hedgecutter, needs its own thread] and I picked up some worn out brake pads for free. Plenty of meat left on them actually.

 

[Agvg]

The pads on a Farmi is very thick, checked price on a cluch for a Fransgard?

 

[Oldpath05]

I had my Fransgard winch apart 4 years ago, I should've taken pictures. A couple times when the cable broke it went inside; awful job to get to the cable so I modified it a little so can just unbolt the front frame mount and pull everything right out, get the cable laced back up through the wully pully or even change the cable.

The brake mechanism is works great and has got to be the most simplest holding brake thing out there, I'll see if I have a picture of it somewhere, might have to take one.

 

[davedj1]

I had my Fransgard winch apart 4 years ago, I should've taken pictures. A couple times when the cable broke it went inside; awful job to get to the cable so I modified it a little so can just unbolt the front frame mount and pull everything right out, get the cable laced back up through the wully pully or even change the cable.

The brake mechanism is works great and has got to be the most simplest holding brake thing out there, I'll see if I have a picture of it somewhere, might have to take one.

That would be cool, thanks!

I was thinking while driving around in the woods today in my Jeep that perhaps if my mechanical levers don't work or have enough pressure I could adapt a Jeep clutch slave cylinder (the internal kind) and use that with a master cylinder on a longer lever? Food for thought.
I have decided that I am making the drum shaft support on the inside removable and adjustable so if I have to change up my program I can.
Keep the good info coming.

 

[FarmWrench]

You may not need as much clutch as you think.

this is from Audels millwrights and mechanics guide (Gas and electric hoists section p499 from my unknown addition.)

You just need a large enough diameter for the friction to take place at.

For our friend looking to clean a pond.

Please look for a PDF copy of "Practical wire rope information and useful information on the drag line cableway excavator" by H.B. Saureman.

 

[Oldpath05]

I found this picture of my winch brake, part of the drum has teeth on it, it's in winching and winch brake position in this picture, to unlock when hooked to a log, flip the lever over to the stop> (the square C piece) then just yank the rope and the weight of the lever swings the dog out of the drum, so simple just hard to explain.

 

[davedj1]

I found this picture of my winch brake, part of the drum has teeth on it, it's in winching and winch brake position in this picture, to unlock when hooked to a log, flip the lever over to the stop> (the square C piece) then just yank the rope and the weight of the lever swings the dog out of the drum, so simple just hard to explain.

Your pictures not showing up for me for whatever reason.

 

[davedj1]

Hmm, the picture shows up in my quote. That's pretty much how I envisioned my brake working except I was planning on a spring to hold it in the off position. Looks like no spring required! Thanks.

 

[mark in portugal]

I have to ask what could be a dumb question; is a logging winch really worthwhile for a non-professional who has a tractor?

I only manage a little patch of forest, and when I need to pull out a tree [several each year] I just chain it to the drawbar and drive. It seems to work just fine.
Ok, my trees aren't huge, my ground is flat, and I have 4wd.

What does the winch do for you actually?

Not meaning to take anything away from your build, just asking.