Grapple style preference

[TractorGuy]

One other thought. There are times I don't want to pick up small limbs in my yard with the grapple because it's hard to to without damaging the grass. With type one it's easy to open and tilt back to hand load it.

I think type 2 would be great for rakeing roots BUT. There are 3pt root rakes that would do that with less stress on the tractor. Remember the loader wasn't designed to be a bull dozier.

 

[deezler]

I have a type #2, simply because that is what came with my used tractor package (EA Wicked 55"). It is an awesome tool, no doubt. I need to practice more with it, but I can't help but think a #1 style would work much better for me. The short base of the #2 wicked style means you cant really get underneath anything. You have to grab everything from in front, or from on top. This works great for malleable brush piles, but I was plucking boulders the other day and they just kept trying to fall out. Big logs, too. You have to grab from the top, and it was easy to pull the loader up after a full clamp but have the log or rock fall right out. Even with the loader curled all the way back, you're carrying the load with the grapple clamping action, not by just resting anything atop the lower tines.

 

[Smokeydog]

If anyone could tear up a type 1 grapple I could. Uniquely qualified and educated to find the weak links in any piece of machinery. A skill I have yet to make a profit on. 850# of mostly T1 steel is too heavy for the OPs tractor. Some wear from considerable ground engagement. Lid tines tips slightly bent from side loading. Joint bearing still tight. Cost $2K 25 year ago. One of the best attachments ever. Wouldn’t buy a grapple of any type with tines made out of A36 mild steel.

 

[jjp8182]

Have/use the type 1 style (with a single lid here). For most effective grabbing (of brush, trees & general debris), I'll position the hinge point over the top of the pile I'm grabbing and use the ground to force feed as much material into the grapple as possible before closing and rolling it back into a carrying position.

Will use it for raking things into a pile with the front edge at a slight angle to the ground (usually 1/2" or so above the ground) -- so the points/lip are the closest part of the grapple to the ground (but the flat of the bottom is at 45 degrees or less from the horizontal).

If I need to start digging into the ground much I'd rather use the scarifiers on my box blade -- have caught roots with it that have brought my tractor to a complete & sudden stop (not sure I'd want to risk doing that with the tractor's loader).

BTW If you find one where the tines on top and bottom are aligned, it can permit grabbing some very small items ...which can be very useful for grabbing individual limbs/branches/twigs that may have fallen from a prior transit and landed in the path between the clean up site and the disposal spot. For example: Best grapple for brush? --- personally I've found (once I've got the exprience) that it's quicker to do that than to get off the tractor for every little bit that I'd rather not drive over. Though having the wide flat bottom can be handy for a final clean up by hand as the grapple can be rolled all the way back, lid open and loaded by hand (if/when needed) but still provide a way to keep things from bouncing out while driving by closing the lid for moving.....

Of course depending on what you need (or will be doing) one of other types may be more appropriate..... in addition to the other types already identified there are also the dedicated log grapple styles: Frostbite Photos / Videos

Just my $0.02 though....

 

[BackRoad]

This is a Coke/Pepsi debate...

I have your #2 grapple. It stays on 90% of the time. There isn't anything I have not been able to accomplish efficiently with it, from rooting up invasive buckthorn and multiflora roses to pushing over 10 and 12 inch Maples and pines for field restoration.

And if needed, I can pick up individual sticks with out tearing up the grass

Attributes to consider are:

Weight...(lower the weight of the grapple is more payload you can lift).

Strength of the metal used...(do a quick search of TBN for broken grapple threads, there are some.) I drank the EA "Hardox" kool-aide...with no remorse. I've abused it and it is a beast.

Form Factor...this one is more subtle, but important for me personally.
I bush hog and finish mow fields and woods trails wIth my grapple on. I can curl up the Wicked Root grapple tight to the SSQA, and it barely adds 8 inches beyond the front of the loader, allowing tight maneuvering around trees and corners when mowing, yet it's right there to root out a Buckthorn or Autumn Olive if needed.

I'm not sure the #1 style grapple can be carried as compact to the FEL. It makes a difference in desirability for me.

Likely you will be happy with whatever style you choose, just don't get paralysis trying to make the perfect decision!

Good luck!

 

[MoKelly]

This is a Coke/Pepsi debate...

Coke for sure!

MoKelly

 

[IndyJay]

This is a Coke/Pepsi debate...

I have your #2 grapple. It stays on 90% of the time. There isn't anything I have not been able to accomplish efficiently with it, from rooting up invasive buckthorn and multiflora roses to pushing over 10 and 12 inch Maples and pines for field restoration.

And if needed, I can pick up individual sticks with out tearing up the grass

Attributes to consider are:

Weight...(lower the weight of the grapple is more payload you can lift).

Strength of the metal used...(do a quick search of TBN for broken grapple threads, there are some.) I drank the EA "Hardox" kool-aide...with no remorse. I've abused it and it is a beast.

Form Factor...this one is more subtle, but important for me personally.
I bush hog and finish mow fields and woods trails wIth my grapple on. I can curl up the Wicked Root grapple tight to the SSQA, and it barely adds 8 inches beyond the front of the loader, allowing tight maneuvering around trees and around cornerers when mowing, yet it's right there to root out a Buckthorn or Autumn Olive if needed.

I'm not sure the #1 style grapple can be carried as compact to the FEL. It makes a difference in desirability for me

Likely you will be happy with whatever style you choose, just don't get paralysis trying to make the perfect decision!

Good luck!View attachment 714192

I've had my DK4510 with type 1 since May, have not switched to my bucket yet. Somewhat surprised, since with my old tractor I thought I couldn't live without a bucket. So far I haven't needed it it. The grapple does a lot of things that I used to do with the bucket on my old tractor.

 

[beenthere]

Not the answer to the question, but already had the forks to go with my bucket and found them to be essential.. so adding The Thumb was a decision I made and think it easily takes the place of a grapple. Reasonable price, weight, and quick to hook up.

 

[Torvy]

Not the answer to the question, but already had the forks to go with my bucket and found them to be essential.. so adding The Thumb was a decision I made and think it easily takes the place of a grapple. Reasonable price, weight, and quick to hook up.

That looks like something I could use to 'make do' until I could afford an actual grapple. Too much brush would fall between the forks. Good for big logs, I suppose. Most importantly, it works for you and that is all that matters.

 

[beenthere]

Works for me because the forks slide closer together easily. They are far apart in the pic shown.
Think I have a couple pics moving tree tops blown out in a windstorm last month.
Easily cleaned up and packed off to a burn pile in four trips.