Grapple Grappling for answers on Grapples

   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #41  
I agree with you guys if the primary use is clearing and removing roots the rake design would be better and less strain on loader components than trying to use an open bottom design. I am not sure why the prices for the root rakes appear to be higher than the open bottoms for same width and number of tines. Must have more material in them. Good luck on the choice. Kinda glad the selection is behind me and ready to get the plumbing fixed and move some brush!

When I pull the trigger I'll add the Kubota third valve with the button on the FEL control. My dealer seems to prefer this design over the WRLong design. Maybe because it's more expensive and he gets a better mark-up :eek:
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #42  
Happyman, I thought WR Long or perhaps another brand, but want two claw and the 66-inch width. When raking the 66-inch would cover tire tracks. I have hydraulic set up from the rear remotes already in place to accommodate my loader angle snowplow. I知 trying to stay under 2K.

With all the grapple threads, there痴 not much mention of best type for de-rooting surface roots and was unsure until just recently that the two claw operates off one hydraulic (I think).

Any suggestions on best grapple rake capable of raking?
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #43  
Happyman, I thought WR Long or perhaps another brand, but want two claw and the 66-inch width. When raking the 66-inch would cover tire tracks. I have hydraulic set up from the rear remotes already in place to accommodate my loader angle snowplow. I知 trying to stay under 2K.

With all the grapple threads, there痴 not much mention of best type for de-rooting surface roots and was unsure until just recently that the two claw operates off one hydraulic (I think).

Any suggestions on best grapple rake capable of raking?
BillBee, check this one out: RBG
The RBG2 60 is probably the one I'll go for.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #44  
It is too bad that almost no one gets to use both styles of grapple to make comparisons. I have an open bottom style grapple but I do a lot of root raking with it and it works fine. I do not start at one end of a field and "root rake" across like you would with a York rake however and I haven't heard of people actually using grapples that way. Mostly grapples are used to pull out individual tree stumps or bushes as well as to carry debris or logs or brush. For that purpose either style of grapple works. I like the open bottom because the bottom tines can be either vertical or horizontal to dig or get under an object and also because gravity holds the load in place once you have it in the grapple. If I were literally buying a grapple to pick up small sticks on a forest floor I can see that the clamshell style would be better but for general use I don't see that there is a significant benefit from the clamshell style to justify the extra cost and weight.

I haven't used a clamshell but the lower jaw is so short and vertical that I don't see how you could use it to lever a root out of the ground. That means you are left with only your lifting force to get at a root. I can stick my horizontal lower jaw under a root then apply quite a bit of leverage using both lift and curl (=breakout which is always higher than lift capacity) and by lifting the rear of the tractor off the ground then dropping down and driving forwards a bit then repeating. It's hard to describe clearly how that works but it ends up putting a lot more upwards force on the roots than just grabbing and lifting.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #45  
Happyman, I thought WR Long or perhaps another brand, but want two claw and the 66-inch width. When raking the 66-inch would cover tire tracks. I have hydraulic set up from the rear remotes already in place to accommodate my loader angle snowplow. I知 trying to stay under 2K.

With all the grapple threads, there痴 not much mention of best type for de-rooting surface roots and was unsure until just recently that the two claw operates off one hydraulic (I think).

Any suggestions on best grapple rake capable of raking?

No advantage to having a grapple as wide as your tire treads. A wider grapple just means you are dividing your lift capacity and breakout capacity over a wider area as well as lifting a heavier more expensive grapple.

Unless you have a bulldozer you will most likely take smaller bites of brush then back out to deposit the brush in a pile. Only big bulldozers can just lower their rake blade and plow through territory. The rest of us do it piece by piece so there is no benefit to having a grapple as wide as your bucket.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #46  
No advantage to having a grapple as wide as your tire treads. A wider grapple just means you are dividing your lift capacity and breakout capacity over a wider area as well as lifting a heavier more expensive grapple.

Unless you have a bulldozer you will most likely take smaller bites of brush then back out to deposit the brush in a pile. Only big bulldozers can just lower their rake blade and plow through territory. The rest of us do it piece by piece so there is no benefit to having a grapple as wide as your bucket.

Good advice. Thanks.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #47  
That's what I keep thinking, those clam grapples look like they'd be fun if they were mounted on a dozer. Maybe in sandy soil they'd work, but not around my place.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #48  
Island, do you think the Markham would be as capable as the Millonzi in root raking or are the Markham tins flat configuration a disadvantage for this purpose?

I guess if I had a Markham I would do more picking up and carrying than pushing and raking with a WR Long, but I need to remove stumps and roots.

I had my land logged and now clearing the steep slopes to open the mountain view. I have logs and treetops scattered about. I have been pushing into piles with the loader and burning, but this is a slow process and I can only push down or up due to the steepness.
 
   / Grappling for answers on Grapples
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Thought I'd post some pictures (or at least I hope I will) of the Markham Light weight grapple. I hope this helps some of you to get a picture fix.

This is of the single tine unit. The single tine is about 30" wide as I remember from my conversation with Mrs. Markham. They will also make this with two narrower top tines of about 15 or 16" in width. They will also add extra spacers, as you can see in one of the pictures. The spacers cut the gap between the tines from 9" to 4.5". While I ordered the 60" unit they also make a 48" unit. Their prices were great.

I check multiple dealers for the WR Long unit and each had a different price for the 56" unit which has two top tines. All the costs I received were greater than Markham's.
 

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   / Grappling for answers on Grapples #50  
Thought I'd post some pictures (or at least I hope I will) of the Markham Light weight grapple. I hope this helps some of you to get a picture fix.

This is of the single tine unit. The single tine is about 30" wide as I remember from my conversation with Mrs. Markham. They will also make this with two narrower top tines of about 15 or 16" in width. They will also add extra spacers, as you can see in one of the pictures. The spacers cut the gap between the tines from 9" to 4.5". While I ordered the 60" unit they also make a 48" unit. Their prices were great.

I check multiple dealers for the WR Long unit and each had a different price for the 56" unit which has two top tines. All the costs I received were greater than Markham's.
Make sure they dont use Skid Steer style Quick Disconnect, but Agricultural. Unless your tractor has the SS style QD's.

Wedge
 
 

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