Price Check M7040 or 5083E

[gocards1177]

At the advice of another member, I'm transplanting this posting from another thread. I've read through another thread regarding the same tractors from a couple years back in 2009. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-buying-pricing/140837-jd-5083e-vs-m7040.html

I'm not writing this so much about the merits of JD vs Kubota. I think they're quite similar. With regards to these two models, I know I'm not comparing apples to apples, but I drove a JD 5083E and Kubota M7040 yesterday morning. I like both of the dealers and they have solid reputations. The Kubota dealer is where I got my L3800. I'll be trading in my L3800, loader, and 6 foot cutter. Here are the stats that I would like comments on (I'll try to put them both in the same format):

The JD dealer is 10 miles away. 5083E cab, power reverser, ag tires, PTO is 69 HP, 2 rear remotes,553 Loader (3604 at 800mm). Price includes radio, fluid filled tires, and block heater (I think I would delete the radio (get aftermarket) and heater). 0% financing for 60 months. Insurance is $100 per year. 34,100 after trade-in. 568.33 per month.

The Kubota dealer is 40 miles away. M7040 cabs, hydraulic shuttle, ag tires. PTO is 60 HP. 1 rear remote, LA1153 loader (2326# at 500mm). Price includes fluid filled tires. 0% financing for 60 months. Insurance is $500 per year (dealer thought that high). 24,650 after trade in. 410.83 per month.

I liked both of the cabs, seats, and how they drove. If it were apples to apples, I would prefer the Deere slightly better. I like both of the dealers. The JD had another remote, more HP, dealer is closer, and it had some sort of "efficient PTO" for 540 RPM at a lower engine speed. Some sort of gearing thing? Either of the above plans will leave me with finding a used cutter on Tractorhouse.com.

Is the JD $10K more tractor? Or put another way, is the Deere worth $100 more per month? I didn't do any negotiating on either - just did my test drives, got my quotes, and headed out. So I may be able to get the Deere down and/or get them to give me more for my trade-in. Deere is giving me almost $4K less on trade in. I think the Kubota guy is giving me a fair deal, so I don't think his numbers will change. This may seem silly to many here, but as the father of a 2YO son who is crazy about tractors, the ability to get a buddy seat in the 5083E may be the deciding factor if I can get the Deere down. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[DavesTractor]

I can't give you a fair comparison on the tractors because I am not familiar enough with either model, but I will say it sounds like the Kubota dealer is doing all he can to earn your business.

 

[Smallplot]

One rear remote is about useless (to me anyway) and adding extra features racks up the $$ quickly (speaking of front rear wipers mirrors lighting things like this) . The only other issue I would point to is the weight of each tractor. Weight can make just as much difference in how a tractor functions in everyday use as other options.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Ill tell you what i looked at when i compared the same tractors two years ago but i looked at the 8540 I believe. Deere gave me 0% for 72 months kubota would only go to 60 months with the 0% and the deere outweighed the kubota (comparing their specs side by side) by over 1300lbs. If that doesn't answer your question I dont know what would.

soapbox warning.

That much weight isn't made up in the cab components but the frame and axles of the tractor. If you have any questions about the 5083E i'll be more than happy to answer them if i can since I have had it a few hundred hours now.

/soapbox

 

[TripleR]

I find it much easier to add weight than make something lighter, every ag tractor I see no matter the color has differing amounts of weight plates on racks or wheels. If weight was optimum no one would be using plastic, carbon fiber, aluminum, titanium etc. I once had a great big heavy bench vice that broke, it was replaced with a better, lighter one and thirty years later it is still in use.

As to the "best" tractor only you can tell, I doubt I would pick either. The good news is that both are good machines.

In the end, I have seen less valid reasons to choose a particular tractor than the ability to spend more time with your kids, mine are grown and I treasure every minute I spent with them.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Triple R, I wasn't refering to the ability to add or take off weight. I was implying that based on the base machine weights, there was more metal in the deere for the rated horsepower than the similiar sized Kubota right from each factory. I assumed (dangerous word) that the deere was built heavier in some way and that lead me to believe that it was more robust. I like the comparision of the vises, but technology has come along way in the last couple decades and I would agree whole heartedly if we were comparing tractors of differing vintages. But we are comparing brand new tractor to brand new tractor here.



From Kubota website 8540 cabbed tractor- 6065 lbs http://kubota.com/product/M5040/pdf/m40series_spec.pdf
From Deere's website 5083E cabbed tractor-7385 lbs John Deere 5083E Utility Tractor 5E Series (83-101 hp) Utility Tractors JohnDeere.com



So i was a little off but im not sure if that is the open station or cab deere. but even still. Where do you hide 1300lbs at?

 

[foreman Etexas]

I would think the JD 5083 and Kubota 8560 be more comparable,any reason why not between these two instead of 7040?

 

[TripleR]

RedNeckRacing, yes I am well aware of the changes in tractors in the last few decades as I have been driving them for over fifty-five years. We still own some made in the fifties and some as new as this year.

If weight reduction was of no consequence lighter weight materials used even in the Abrams tank, firearms, cars, trucks etc. would have never been developed. "Heavier" is not always better than "lighter" nor indicative of quality one way or the other. A properly designed frame or support does not "have" to be heavier to be strong, this can often be done by design.

I don't honestly know which of the tractors mentioned is stronger or better constructed, I just don't accept this can be determined by looking at weight. I can't remember ever reading much on here or elsewhere about a tractor having a structural failure unless seriously misused and then only the 3PH attachment points. One would think if weight was an indicator, more of the lighter weight tractors would be having failures.

As to weight in use, I have farmed and tinkered and weight can be your fried or enemy depending on your needs. We have some without any added weights or even fluid in the tires as we use them almost exclusively for running a bush hog and a little road maintenance. We have another with cast center weights, loaded tires and keep the FEL on.

For two of our farms weight is kept down to keep soil disturbance and erosion down. My son recently used our M8540 in conditions I wouldn't have taken a heavier tractor. The tractor it replaced was the same HP, but 2000 pounds heavier and the Kubota performs much better and hasn't been stuck yet while the other one was on a fairy regular basis.

I like John Deeres and have recommended them to people and may own another one some day, so I am not a brand fan or knocking John Deere, weight is often brought up by Kioti owners and others and I simply do not accept heavier as better.

Now there is the outside chance I am wrong, but never having been, I have no way of knowing...:laughing:

 

[crazyal]

The weight argument goes both ways. Would you rather have a tractor that was designed to be strong with less steel or one that has more steel put to it to make it stronger? If the Kubotas were breaking left and right because they weren't designed well then I would agree but I can't say I've heard or read anything here saying the Kubota is weak. That just means with the Kubota you get to choose where that weight goes. The OP said he has 37 open acres and was thinking about an orchard. The roots will like a lighter tractor much better.

Since you started off with a 3800 and were looking at a 5740 to replace it I have to ask just how big of a tractor do you need? It doesn't happen that often but people do buy too big. The Deere sounds like a great, but big tractor. I think I would sit down and come up with everything I wanted to do with the tractor and then look then size the tractor for the job. I think it comes down to what you want to do with that 37 acres. If you think you want that big of a machine then I would also be looking at the 8540 since it's closer to the Deere. I would also be looking into maybe a batwing 15' or even 20' mower depending on just how many of those 37 acres you want to keep mother nature at bay on. For an orchard I would see about getting a batwing that could be offset to get under the trees.

 

[gocards1177]

I would think the JD 5083 and Kubota 8560 be more comparable,any reason why not between these two instead of 7040?

As I thought about it, for what I am wanting to do, the Kubota 7040 is more appropriate, so that's where I was headed. It's a utility tractor with a cab that can run at least a 10' cutter. The JD5083 came up because it was the most comparable to the 7040 unless I go back down to a compact tractor like a 4720.

In the end, I have seen less valid reasons to choose a particular tractor than the ability to spend more time with your kids, mine are grown and I treasure every minute I spent with them.

I have to admit, that although the 5083E is likely bigger than anything I really need, I'm drawn to the buddy seat for my kids. Wish I could do the same for the M7040, then it would be a no-brainer.

Since you started off with a 3800 and were looking at a 5740 to replace it I have to ask just how big of a tractor do you need? It doesn't happen that often but people do buy too big. The Deere sounds like a great, but big tractor. I think I would sit down and come up with everything I wanted to do with the tractor and then look then size the tractor for the job. I think it comes down to what you want to do with that 37 acres. If you think you want that big of a machine then I would also be looking at the 8540 since it's closer to the Deere. I would also be looking into maybe a batwing 15' or even 20' mower depending on just how many of those 37 acres you want to keep mother nature at bay on. For an orchard I would see about getting a batwing that could be offset to get under the trees.

Essentially, I want a cab, ability to run at least a 10' cutter on 37 acres twice per year, maintain a 2800' driveway, general chores when we build our house, grade/landscaping when we build a house. My land isn't flat, but it's not a mountain side either. Looking at a topo map, the grade varies 100 feet from the highest to lowest points. I'm basically rehabilitating 37 acres of neglected cow pasture. Between the ruts, rocks, and stumps, I thought I would get a smoother ride from a utility instead of a compact tractor.

 

[gocards1177]

I would also be looking into maybe a batwing 15' or even 20' mower depending on just how many of those 37 acres you want to keep mother nature at bay on. For an orchard I would see about getting a batwing that could be offset to get under the trees.

I would like to keep all of the 37 acres cleared.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

TripleR,

I also mentioned the 0% financing for 72months from deere, that was a big nod in their favor.

I am very hard on equipment and it gave me a little more peace of mind knowing that there was substantially more material in a compareable tractor. I have never had an issue with compaction or the weight hindering me, I'm actually looking at getting more weight since my loader will pick my loaded rear tires clean off the ground with no troubles. I did not have the option at the time to have multiple tractors for multiple uses. My primary uses at the time were the 10' brush hog and heavy loader work with the square bale grabber and moving round bales. I have also done a substantial amount of digging with it as well. My arugument for the weight was that weight=traction for the majority of tractors out there. The heavier the tractor the better it pulls.(unless your in mud then it sinks like a rock!)

I forgot the OP mentioned about maintaining the orchard and the shallow roots, but i dont completely agree about the lighter tractor being better if thats the way you meant it.
I did not have the ability to strength test the tractors components side by side so i made the ASSUMPTION that the heavier weight was a more robust tractor. I dont think deere makes the best tractor at any particular model either. If you have a particular need for a heavy or a light tractor then thats the best tractor for your needs. And as we all know, everyone's need are completely different. Hence why I ended up buying a L3400 HST Kubota that makes alot of chores much simpler.

Maybe in 55 years I'll have a compareable tractor collection? I'll cross my fingers.

To the OP, I have a 10' brushog and it works my tractor pretty good in the hills and when the grass gets to be pretty tall. If you have thinner grass or mow more often it shouldn't be to big of a deal. Just make sure you have plenty of front ballast!

 

[foreman Etexas]

I pull a 8ft/12ft/15ft with my 7040 and have several hundred acres to take care of and the 7040 does everything needed,including baling,run 8ft hay cutter,raking hay,loading hay,discing,tilling,moving brush,box blading driveway and pulling 300gallon sprayer,atleast 250hrs a year without a issue...

 

[TripleR]

TripleR,

I also mentioned the 0% financing for 72months from deere, that was a big nod in their favor.

I am very hard on equipment and it gave me a little more peace of mind knowing that there was substantially more material in a compareable tractor. I have never had an issue with compaction or the weight hindering me, I'm actually looking at getting more weight since my loader will pick my loaded rear tires clean off the ground with no troubles. I did not have the option at the time to have multiple tractors for multiple uses. My primary uses at the time were the 10' brush hog and heavy loader work with the square bale grabber and moving round bales. I have also done a substantial amount of digging with it as well. My arugument for the weight was that weight=traction for the majority of tractors out there. The heavier the tractor the better it pulls.(unless your in mud then it sinks like a rock!)

I forgot the OP mentioned about maintaining the orchard and the shallow roots, but i dont completely agree about the lighter tractor being better if thats the way you meant it.
I did not have the ability to strength test the tractors components side by side so i made the ASSUMPTION that the heavier weight was a more robust tractor. I dont think deere makes the best tractor at any particular model either. If you have a particular need for a heavy or a light tractor then thats the best tractor for your needs. And as we all know, everyone's need are completely different. Hence why I ended up buying a L3400 HST Kubota that makes alot of chores much simpler.

Maybe in 55 years I'll have a compareable tractor collection? I'll cross my fingers.

To the OP, I have a 10' brushog and it works my tractor pretty good in the hills and when the grass gets to be pretty tall. If you have thinner grass or mow more often it shouldn't be to big of a deal. Just make sure you have plenty of front ballast!

Agreed, we all make assumptions and for many years wouldn't own anything but a steel and wood gun, no weak aluminum frames for me, no sir; time passes, well OK aluminum works pretty well after all, but don't expect to EVER see me with one"plastic" guns, no way, no how; few years pass and you guessed it. My only point though I took lot of words to express it is, I don't accept the blanket statement that heavier is always better or stronger.

A heavier tractor works best in your situations, I use heavy some places and lighter in others. No I wasn't implying anything about orchards or tree roots, don't even remember that being mentioned.

It appears we both have the tractors we need and are happy with them. I think the OP is more interested in what he wants as evidenced by the other thread. I could take care of the chores he put forth with my L5740, but having a CUT you know ride is better with the bigger tractors and of course there is the buddy seat which is good enough reason in itself.

I have tractors I need and those I want, my last one was purely a want and my wife even has a BX she wants, not needs, but don't tell her I said that.:laughing:

 

[haywire cattle co]

wouldn't a 5065e or 5075e be a closer comparison to a 7040 Kubota or don't they put cabs on the smaller E series

 

[gocards1177]

You know I did ask the salesman about the 5075e but he said he didn't have a price on them yet. He was of the opinion that the tier4 changes would make it almost the same price as last years 5083e.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Agreed, we all make assumptions and for many years wouldn't own anything but a steel and wood gun, no weak aluminum frames for me, no sir; time passes, well OK aluminum works pretty well after all, but don't expect to EVER see me with one"plastic" guns, no way, no how; few years pass and you guessed it. My only point though I took lot of words to express it is, I don't accept the blanket statement that heavier is always better or stronger.

A heavier tractor works best in your situations, I use heavy some places and lighter in others. No I wasn't implying anything about orchards or tree roots, don't even remember that being mentioned.

It appears we both have the tractors we need and are happy with them. I think the OP is more interested in what he wants as evidenced by the other thread. I could take care of the chores he put forth with my L5740, but having a CUT you know ride is better with the bigger tractors and of course there is the buddy seat which is good enough reason in itself.

I have tractors I need and those I want, my last one was purely a want and my wife even has a BX she wants, not needs, but don't tell her I said that.:laughing:

Very well put and I think I said I made some assumptions based on the data that the manufactures were supplying on their websites. I also assumed that the first thing most people do when they get a tractor is add ballast to get more traction, so 1300lbs is a lot of "free" ballast to not have to add on extra. If you have a specific need for a light tractor I had not considered that. I have a lot of tractors and equipment I want to own but my wallet certainly cannot support more than what I have got at the moment! I have no idea where I got the orchard root thing from, must be mixing posts up in my head again.

I have one of those plastic guns you mention and I think it’s ludicrous as well but a lot of police carry that very same weapon and that speaks volumes about durability in my mind. People that hang their life on it is good enough for me!

OP: I re-read your original post and the 540E setting runs your motor at a lower rpm to get the 540 rpm at the pto for low hp implements. I have never used it, but I believe that it also will not let you over rev the engine when that is engaged.

 

[TripleR]

I have one of those plastic guns you mention and I think it’s ludicrous as well but a lot of police carry that very same weapon and that speaks volumes about durability in my mind. People that hang their life on it is good enough for me!

Oh I do trust them now. Our department only allowed us to carry a revolver made by S&W, Ruger or Colt or in later years a Glock 22, 23, 27. I kept my old duty weapons a G23 and G27 and accumulated some more when I retired. My son was a Police Officer and instructor and had to get over his love of the all metal guns as well.

I still like the all metal ones better, but trust the "plastic" ones as much as anything I own.

 

[case245]

i own a 7040 i to owned an L3800 i will say the 7040 is light in the rear i have cast centers loaded tires i can still pick the rear off the ground at times when lifting heavy or lifting offset i say look at the deere alot closer

 

[Notforhire]

wouldn't a 5065e or 5075e be a closer comparison to a 7040 Kubota or don't they put cabs on the smaller E series

In the 2012 brochure the smaller 5 series are all open station, untill you get to the 5083E limited. Only the 5083E, 5093E, and 50101E, are listed as Cab.

Bill