min-till I think...

[jimg]

Thanx guys, very helpful! Im pretty sure my little tractors not going to be able to handle anything w/ wings. However, its pretty awesome to see just how much deformation to the surface it can cause!!!

To a related question...after reading mfg specs for their subsoilers and V plows its hard to know what my tractor can handle. It seems the range / shank is pretty big! Also theres the question of whats the diff between a subsoiler and V plow. I still havent figured that one out or why one would be preferred over the other. In any event is there any danger that subsoiling will cause hard pan? Im only planning to do this every few yrs (not every year).

 

[Renze]

Thanx guys, very helpful! Im pretty sure my little tractors not going to be able to handle anything w/ wings.

You said 75 hp... is that PTO or engine hp ? and whats the weight ? 2wd or 4wd ? loaded tires ? what size ? can you use duals if necessary ?

I can run this ripper http://www.eversagro.nl/img/fotogalerijen/woelers/Java/images/MKet St tand en beitel 20cm.jpg
quite well with the 5245 (55 engine hp) with MFWD. It weighs about 3700 kg with loader i think, so with front wheel drive, all of its weight helps to generate traction. In not too wet conditions, i can bury this ripper in the ground to the frame, (lotsa wheel spin though) but doing so is useless on most soils.
It can handle the ripper quite well up to 50 cm depth. going deeper requires duals (16.9-30 tires) because of the weight of the soil thats lifted up by the blades. Going deeper is only beneficial if you have impenetrable ore or clay layers in the subsoil, like we have in the other field we rent, which is a few miles from home.
In the average soil, 40 to 50 cm depth is all you need to go.

In any event is there any danger that subsoiling will cause hard pan? Im only planning to do this every few yrs (not every year).

We just use the subsoiler to solve hardpan. Hardpan is mostly caused by worn out ploughs, that slide over the ground with their full weight, and need the weight to get to depth, instead of pulling themself in like a subsoiler. (thats when the tips are worn, and the landslide is lower than the worn off plough tip)

I try to run the subsoiler chisels just a bit lower than the black topsoil layer, this means that all of the black soil is shattered, but the chisels run down in the beach sand. There is usually no compaction in the beach sand.
My theory is that they wont help in the beach sand, but wont hurt either: soil with organic matter is more prone to compaction, by 'stirring it like cement' it in the wet, than beach sand.

 

[jimg]

Hi Renze
Its 75 engine hp. I think it weights 6000+# and has 4wd w/ loaded back tires. Not sure about duals but I suppose w/ some sort of hub extender they could be fitted. Tire size is the biggest NH will put on a TN...whatever that is. I can find out if its important.

I rigged my renovator this w/e w/ only 2 shanks and no coulters. I can bury the shanks to the frame, a bit more than 12", but on avg they were running 9 or 10". I messed about w/ the top link until the shanks would dive on their own. I think I should be happy w/ the results as this ground is really compacted. Although there were spots where the soil was deep and loose, a real mixed bag. Perhaps this winter Ill see whats on the used ripper market or perhaps make some rippers for my renovator frame.

Thanx again for taking the time to reply.

 

[Renze]

Hi Renze
Its 75 engine hp. I think it weights 6000+# and has 4wd w/ loaded back tires. Not sure about duals but I suppose w/ some sort of hub extender they could be fitted. Tire size is the biggest NH will put on a TN...whatever that is. I can find out if its important.

So its a TN 75 with front wheel drive.

according to NH NA its about 6000 pounds without loaded tires: http://www.newholland.com/FILES/tbl_s25SeriesText/PDFUpload290/3132/TNA_specs_042006.pdf

Its standard tires are 14.9-28 and 9.5-20. You said you had the biggest tire option, so i assume you got about the same tires as i have: 16.9-30 and 11.2-24

With loaded tires you might end up with 850 pounds extra, which is 6850 pounds or 3100 kg. My tractor in basic execution, no cab, 4wd standard tires, is 3220 kg. With cab, fwd and loader, is at least 3800kg, i dont know exactly because i have no idea how much steel i have exactly added for the loader subframe (a lot !!! )

With that, i think you can handle a 3 leg ripper in average soil conditions, no clay, not too wet, at 40 cm (16") depth. If possible, hang some front ballast weight, to balance it better, the rear axle is already loaded, and rippers put lots of downforce on the 3pt

 

[jimg]

First, I should correct my previous note...I measured last night and the shanks are running 10" min and 12" in places...better than I thought.

Yes its a 4wd TN75 w/o a cab. Tires sizes you mention are correct, I checked last night. Only extra weight is the implement itself...no loader. Ive been looking for reasonably priced weights and they're hard to come by. I do have some now to couter the brush mower but need more.

My soils are sort of all over the place but tend toward silt/loam in the first few inches then clay beneath that. Then there are a few places (very few) thats deep loam...very nice. Im sure theres clay under that.

I was surprised to find moisture not far down...2 or 3". Its been pretty dry here and hot.

Thanx for the help!!

 

[Renze]

JimG, a real backsaver would be a big oil barrel to mount on the front of your tractor. It weighs nothing, but when you've manually hung it there, you can fill it with water in abreeze. When you're done, drain it and take the barrel off again.

It doesnt cost much and its easier than 40 kg "canister" weights. The water filled barrel trick isnt pretty and its bulky, but might work for the few occasions you need it.