New 5055E

[LoudonNH]

Do you have to use the clutch to start out when using a power shuttle on a John Deere? Sounds like a standard shuttle not a power shuttle.

Also why would you have the hand throttle set to 1200?

I normally set the hand throttle at 12-1700 for loader work, plowing snow for example. That's what you do in order to free-up your right foot to steer with the brakes.

 

[LoudonNH]

Do you have to use the clutch to start out when using a power shuttle on a John Deere? Sounds like a standard shuttle not a power shuttle.

Also why would you have the hand throttle set to 1200?

You don't have to use the clutch to Power Shift.I was attempting to describe what happens after shifting gears, in which case you must use the clutch. And then putting the tractor in motion.

 

[Deerherd]

I normally set the hand throttle at 12-1700 for loader work, plowing snow for example. That's what you do in order to free-up your right foot to steer with the brakes.

If you are running your hand throttle at 12-17k while switching directions doing loader work I can see why your transmission didn't seem right. You may want to rethink not using your hand throttle.

How much brake steering do you really do with 4wd?

I think if you used the foot throttle, 4WD and lock your brakes together you would be much further ahead and your power shuttle would work as designed.

 

[LoudonNH]

If you are running your hand throttle at 12-17k while switching directions doing loader work I can see why your transmission didn't seem right. You may want to rethink not using your hand throttle.

How much brake steering do you really do with 4wd?

I think if you used the foot throttle, 4WD and lock your brakes together you would be much further ahead and your power shuttle would work as designed.

I appreciate your willingness to offer advice but the tractor is not functioning as it should. Two mechanics, the service manager, the salesman and I all agree about that. They're asking a Deere area rep to get involved and we're all hoping to find a solution that makes it right. The issue is not that I'm operating the tractor incorrectly or asking it to do anything I wasn't told and we don't agree it should do.

As far as how I'm using the hand throttle and brake pedals, that's just what you do to steer a tractor when the front tires don't have traction enough to steer, both 4wd and 2wd tractors, the same as you would do to steer a backhoe under the same circumstances, if you're more familiar with that. It's very useful when doing loader work, especially grading, backsliding and plowing snow.

Again, if the transmission shifted smoothly and the brakes worked on first push, all would be good.

Incidentally, since the re-calibration shifting from reverse to forward is very smooth, as should be expected. The problem remaining is only with shifting from forward to reverse; at any speed including standing still at an idle, without using the clutch or changing gears or ranges.

 

[ovrszd]

I appreciate your willingness to offer advice but the tractor is not functioning as it should. Two mechanics, the service manager, the salesman and I all agree about that. They're asking a Deere area rep to get involved and we're all hoping to find a solution that makes it right. The issue is not that I'm operating the tractor incorrectly or asking it to do anything I wasn't told and we don't agree it should do.

As far as how I'm using the hand throttle and brake pedals, that's just what you do to steer a tractor when the front tires don't have traction enough to steer, both 4wd and 2wd tractors, the same as you would do to steer a backhoe under the same circumstances, if you're more familiar with that. It's very useful when doing loader work, especially grading, backsliding and plowing snow.

Again, if the transmission shifted smoothly and the brakes worked on first push, all would be good.

Incidentally, since the re-calibration shifting from reverse to forward is very smooth, as should be expected. The problem remaining is only with shifting from forward to reverse; at any speed including standing still at an idle, without using the clutch or changing gears or ranges.

Well stated. I understand the need for the individual brakes. I've heard guys on here say they never unlock their individual brake pedals because there is never a need to brake individually. I always wonder what planet they live on?? I use my individual brakes a LOT. And when doing that I use the hand throttle just like you described. My Power Shuttle smoothly changes direction under those conditions. Definitely something wrong with your tractor. Good luck on the search and let us know how it comes out.

 

[LoudonNH]

Well stated. I understand the need for the individual brakes. I've heard guys on here say they never unlock their individual brake pedals because there is never a need to brake individually. I always wonder what planet they live on?? I use my individual brakes a LOT. And when doing that I use the hand throttle just like you described. My Power Shuttle smoothly changes direction under those conditions. Definitely something wrong with your tractor. Good luck on the search and let us know how it comes out.

Thanks Richard.

The first large tractor I owned was a Deere 410C, 1984 if I remember correctly. It was a 2wd backhoe and if you know backhoes, you know they tend to be very light in the front end. It would have been impossible to work with the loader without using the individual brake pedals to steer.

The only times I latch my pedals together nowadays is when I'm on hills hauling logs out of in the woods or before my girlfriend operates the tractors!

I hope we'll be able to sort it out.

 

[ovrszd]

Yep my Brother used to have an old 410. Drove it more with the brakes than the steering wheel.

 

[LoudonNH]

So today my dealer sent a service man down to work on the Power Shift and brakes.

Last time he was here, his laptop computer re-calibrated the transmission. This time he used his computer but did a manual re-calibration. After several hours of adjustments, we both found it to shift very smoothly; the way I always expected it to. Hopefully it stays that way.

As for the brakes, he said the information Deere has provided is that the brakes on these tractors originally had a problem with locking-up. They are now delivered with the brakes set so that there is intended to be 3 1/2" of pedal movement on first application and then 2 1/2" of pedal movement on the second and subsequent applications, until you wait approx 20 seconds to apply again, at which point you get 3 1/2" of travel again...

My pedals go about 3 1/2" on the first application but provide no brakes at all. On the second and additional applications I get about 1" of travel and brakes. If I don't apply the brakes again after about 5 seconds, the pedals go right to the floor with no brakes.

Brett, I'd like to take you up on your offer to talk with your dealer's man that was able to correct this problem on your previous 5055e.

That's all for now...

David

The service man said they will open a "D-TECH." Apparently that means they'll send the problem to John Deere.

 

[ovrszd]

In the lawsuit World we live in it amazes me that a company like Deere is willing to market a tractor that has no brakes on first application!!!! Am I the only one that thinks that is unacceptable??? :confused3:

I work in steep timber terrain a LOT. Regardless of paint color, I would not accept that. I depend on my brakes individually constantly. If my power steering didn't work I could accept that better than my brakes not working.....

 

[Sampey01]

Looks great! You definitely have more rocks than we do. Closest we have is petrified wood and a bunch of it. I'm still on the fence with the r4s. Could use the ground clearance but like how tuff they are. If only the rears where about 4-5" taller it would look better.

I'll trade you my R1's for your R4's

 

[Sampey01]

So today my dealer sent a service man down to work on the Power Shift and brakes.

Last time he was here, his laptop computer re-calibrated the transmission. This time he used his computer but did a manual re-calibration. After several hours of adjustments, we both found it to shift very smoothly; the way I always expected it to. Hopefully it stays that way.

As for the brakes, he said the information Deere has provided is that the brakes on these tractors originally had a problem with locking-up. They are now delivered with the brakes set so that there is intended to be 3 1/2" of pedal movement on first application and then 2 1/2" of pedal movement on the second and subsequent applications, until you wait approx 20 seconds to apply again, at which point you get 3 1/2" of travel again...

My pedals go about 3 1/2" on the first application but provide no brakes at all. On the second and additional applications I get about 1" of travel and brakes. If I don't apply the brakes again after about 5 seconds, the pedals go right to the floor with no brakes.

Brett, I'd like to take you up on your offer to talk with your dealer's man that was able to correct this problem on your previous 5055e.

That's all for now...

David

The service man said they will open a "D-TECH." Apparently that means they'll send the problem to John Deere.

I also would like to know what is the out come with the brakes issue.

 

[trook]

I would like to know the fix for the brake issue as well. I have had my 5075e cab for nearly a year and have this problem. The dealer told me it was supposed to be this way!!???????

 

[LoudonNH]

I would like to know the fix for the brake issue as well. I have had my 5075e cab for nearly a year and have this problem. The dealer told me it was supposed to be this way!!???????

My update on the brake issue:

John Deere authorized and directed my dealer to come out and perform a specific procedure. I'm not sure what it was because I wasn't home when they came to do it last Tuesday.

The follow-up report to me from the service manager is that the brakes are functioning within the limits provided by Deere.

What I can tell you is that on first application the brake pedals go right to the floor and do not completely stop the tractor. On second application, but only if done within a few seconds after the first application, the brakes function very well with very little pedal travel.

Interestingly, I think they told me some time ago, and it's probably somewhere back in this thread, that the pedal travel should be 2 1/2" on first push and 1 1/2" on second push. I believe they're now saying 4 1/2" on first push and 2 1/2" on second push. That's A LOT of pedal travel... I can't imagine why Deere thinks those parameters should be acceptable. To me, those are parameters that have resulted from Deere having to dumb down the system to fix the original 5E problem of brakes locking up.

I'm thinking my best course of action at this point might be to make my insurance carrier aware of the problem to see if they're still willing to carry this tractor. If they will, I might just keep it the way it is, after all I've gotten used to double-pumping to get brakes. It's just a little awkward when using the brakes to steer. If they're not, that might be enough to get Deere to come up with a solution, for all of us.

I also wonder what OSHA or some other outfit that approves this kind of thing might have to say about these brakes. There must be some standard for them to meet. "Reasonable expectation of performance?"

I've been patient so far but as you can tell, I'm beginning to lose my patience as next month the tractor will be going into regular work around people and property.

 

[sixdogs]

On that reasonable expectation of performance, there is one and a product must perform to the level the general buyer has come to expect of prior models. For example, if all Mercedes cars come through with sound undercoating and yours does not, you have a claim even though no mention was ever made regarding undercoating. Since I've never heard of a brake issue like yours on a Deere, and I can't recall a Deere beforehand that came with brakes like this,I'd say you have an issue.

Deere needs a better explanation and understanding of what is going on. Brakes with that kind of pedal and a second pump needed to actually stop defies logic. How would someone use it as a farm tractor, and expect to lock one brake to spin at the end of the row? All this doesn't add up and that kind of pedal travel is not acceptable.

Don't let that warranty expire with this not fixed. Next step for me would be Deere in Moline and maybe your State AG office and start asking questions for a remedy to this .

 

[beenthere]

Laudon

I assume you have all this in writing (other than just on TBN) and well documented so your information to your dealer about the problem, and the dealer's comments are all documented. Phone calls "I said, they said" don't mean much.
In addition, get in contact with the Deere regional rep and whoever is upline from them. Transfer copies of your documentation to them with simple language defining the problem in the beginning, what transpired, and certainly what you were told that it was "within Deere specs". I don't really think Deere finds this acceptable, but instead you are getting a runaround for some other reason at the dealer level.

Let it be known that copies are being made and sent to Corporate, to your insurance, and to your state attorney general and your lawyer if you have one. And for sure, say that this brake play simply is not acceptable.
No one can really do that for you. Have to do it for yourself or it will not move forward from here.
I think you've been much to lenient on this dealer, and only you know why that is and also how you want that relationship to continue.
Wish you well with this problem.

 

[LoudonNH]

Laudon

I assume you have all this in writing (other than just on TBN) and well documented so your information to your dealer about the problem, and the dealer's comments are all documented. Phone calls "I said, they said" don't mean much.
In addition, get in contact with the Deere regional rep and whoever is upline from them. Transfer copies of your documentation to them with simple language defining the problem in the beginning, what transpired, and certainly what you were told that it was "within Deere specs". I don't really think Deere finds this acceptable, but instead you are getting a runaround for some other reason at the dealer level.

Let it be known that copies are being made and sent to Corporate, to your insurance, and to your state attorney general and your lawyer if you have one. And for sure, say that this brake play simply is not acceptable.
No one can really do that for you. Have to do it for yourself or it will not move forward from here.
I think you've been much to lenient on this dealer, and only you know why that is and also how you want that relationship to continue.
Wish you well with this problem.

That all sounds like good advice.

I'm going to take it up with the dealer tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

[rustyshakelford]

That's riculous. Have you contact deere corporate to make a complaint? Go to the dealer and try some 4 and 6 series tractors brakes.

An update on mine, the caution light keeps coming on. The coolant reservoir is bone dry. Does anyone else's tractor blow a bunch of white smoke on start up?

Brett

 

[LoudonNH]

That's riculous. Have you contact deere corporate to make a complaint? Go to the dealer and try some 4 and 6 series tractors brakes.

An update on mine, the caution light keeps coming on. The coolant reservoir is bone dry. Does anyone else's tractor blow a bunch of white smoke on start up?

Brett

Brett,

Yes, my tractor used to blow white smoke on start-up until I started plugging the block heater in this winter. Now it's very clean on start-up.

My coolant reservoir goes dry regularly. We found a few hose clamps at the radiator that needed tightening last month. That can be normal for any hose clamps when the temps are as low as they've been here. In fact, I have a dump truck in cold storage for the winter that needed a lower radiator hose clamp tightened recently since it was dripping. Last Wednesday I found another leaky spot on the tractor above the cab steps at one of the elbows that goes to the cab heater. I filled the coolant reservoir and hope to see it stay full. My suspicion is that the loss of coolant might also be caused by the block heater running constantly; it's not thermostatically controlled. The service manager says he keeps his on a timer that comes on early in the morning in order not to consume electricity all night. Also, I've noticed dried residue from coolant under the hood, and the radiator cap feels pressurized when the tractor has been plugged in but not started for several days. You can actually hear the coolant percolating...

 

[vtsnowedin]

Brett,

Yes, my tractor used to blow white smoke on start-up until I started plugging the block heater in this winter. Now it's very clean on start-up.

My coolant reservoir goes dry regularly. We found a few hose clamps at the radiator that needed tightening last month. That can be normal for any hose clamps when the temps are as low as they've been here. In fact, I have a dump truck in cold storage for the winter that needed a lower radiator hose clamp tightened recently since it was dripping. Last Wednesday I found another leaky spot on the tractor above the cab steps at one of the elbows that goes to the cab heater. I filled the coolant reservoir and hope to see it stay full. My suspicion is that the loss of coolant might also be caused by the block heater running constantly; it's not thermostatically controlled. The service manager says he keeps his on a timer that comes on early in the morning in order not to consume electricity all night. Also, I've noticed dried residue from coolant under the hood, and the radiator cap feels pressurized when the tractor has been plugged in but not started for several days. You can actually hear the coolant percolating...

Are you using the air intake pre-heater when you start it ? If I hold my key pushed in for a count of ten I don't get any white smoke. I plug mine in just half to three quarters hour before I want to start it to not waste electricity but then still pre heat the intake air.