New Purchase

   / New Purchase #31  
Fair point. I could buy an MX if I really wanted one but I don't think it would be a good use of funds, lots of other stuff to buy around here. The tractor itself is reasonable but when you throw in implements it got over $70k. Not mention I was already in sticker shock over the smaller sizes given that I've never bought a tractor before. I was just trying to point out that it's not going to be a "work" tractor in any sense of the word. Also, I need to park the darn thing somewhere so that's a consideration. Haven't really got a clue what I'm doing yet, just doing a lot of reading and watching videos. I've basically been thinking what's the smallest tractor that would do the job, then go one size larger. I appreciate all the feedback.

Can someone explain how I should be thinking about stability given the slope? Is that just a factor of weight and wheel base or is there more going on there?
I was in exactly the situation you are now 14 years ago. There’s very few places on my property where it wouldn’t be easy to roll a tractor. A sub compact tractor is going to be more stable than a compact on the side of a hill. There’s all kinds of places I can go with my lawn tractor where my compact tractor would roll over. There’s nowhere that I can’t go with my zero turn mower, which has a very low center of gravity and a steering wheel so it sticks to very steep slopes. If I had a $30k budget and your property, I’d rather have a $20k tractor and a $10k Cub Cadet ZTR (which is what I use to keep up with 52+ acres) I mow with the mower, the tractor is for bush hogging, fixing the driveway, etc. A larger, more expensive tractor wouldn’t do anything that I can’t already do. I’m maintaining a nice looking property, I’m not logging, digging giant holes, etc. The ZTR will mow the roughest pasture imaginable as long as I don’t let it go completely, and if I do then I can bush hog it.
 
   / New Purchase
  • Thread Starter
#33  
That's a nice looking place, yeah I'm not seeing 200' elevation change in those six acres but always hard to tell from pictures.
Yeah, it doesn't really show in the Redfin pictures but it's definitely on a slope. The contour map I posted probably does a better job of showing it.

If you have no intention of hauling rounds then a B or L is probably what you need. BX could work but it will be sooooooo slloooowwwww, it travels about walking speed so gonna take you a few minutes just to drive across your yard which is a real pain if your moving gravel or something 200 lbs at a time.
No need to haul rounds, we don't use them. Gravel most definitely is in the plan though, going to be moving that frequently. If we do something huge like re-gravel the driveway I'll hire it out, but general mud abatement around the property I plan to do myself. The BX loader specs do seem pretty low but the B, LX & L all seem like they'd be more than capable.
 
   / New Purchase #34  
6 acres is not tiny. Especially if the entirety of the property needs ongoing maintenance, like yours will. A lot of guys here with 5-10 acres really only have 2 acres of "yard" or hobby farm, myself included. And yet I needed a 35HP Kioti to get my own basic tasks done.

Your driveway is long and steep. Looks like a majority of it is actually easement through your neighbors property, but surely they dont want to maintain it for you. If you get an atmospheric river of rain, you'll have some serious re-grading to do.

A B or BX series Kubota is going to leave you frustrated at times. An L seems smart to me. MX is a big ass machine - some people make it work for smaller lots/properties, but c'mon guys.

Are you dead set on Kubota? Lots of other brands out there.
 
   / New Purchase
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Tractors are very unstable on anything other than level ground, the center of gravity is very high compared to something like a car or four wheeler. Lots of folks have died in tractor rollovers (I don't think there is a modern tractor available without ROPS? Which I don't trust for a full roll over but maybe it would slow the tractor down enough from going all the way over you could escape). The narrower the tractor the worse it will be, especially if there are any potholes or obstacles, so you want a very wide stance for stability.
That makes sense, any easy way to estimate which tractors are more stable than others? I've seen some folks talking about wheel spacers or filling the rear tires as possible mitigation.
 
   / New Purchase
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Two things I will never have for a tractor again, mid mount mower and rear finish mower. Such slow/painful/not that great of a cut mowing.
What do you use instead, and how much area are you mowing?
 
   / New Purchase #37  
That makes sense, any easy way to estimate which tractors are more stable than others? I've seen some folks talking about wheel spacers or filling the rear tires as possible mitigation.
Anything to add weight down low, since the tires are on the ground typically thats the easiest way. Tire weights are similar but the weight is slightly higher. Everyone talks spacers but not many talk adjusting the tires! Many tractors have adjustable tires, if you don't have to put it on a trailer or fit them through a gate there's not a good reason not to adjust them out. Once you add spacers you may or may not be within the design specs and could start to see premature wear on the machine...maybe.
 
   / New Purchase #38  
What do you use instead, and how much area are you mowing?
I got my midmount when I had one acre and kept it until I had three acres. Got a big rear finish mower to do the Church's six acre parking lot. Don't have a lawn any more but I mow hundreds of acres a month during the summer...but that's with 9' disc mower for hay.
 
   / New Purchase
  • Thread Starter
#39  
6 acres is not tiny. Especially if the entirety of the property needs ongoing maintenance, like yours will. A lot of guys here with 5-10 acres really only have 2 acres of "yard" or hobby farm, myself included. And yet I needed a 35HP Kioti to get my own basic tasks done.
About 4 acres of it are in Horse pasture, main task there is putting in gravel on the muddy spots, the horses do the rest.
Your driveway is long and steep. Looks like a majority of it is actually easement through your neighbors property, but surely they dont want to maintain it for you. If you get an atmospheric river of rain, you'll have some serious re-grading to do.
Yeah, it's an easement. They use the same driveway through most of the steep portion. In the past the owners shared that expense/work, but we bought this place and the other one is going up for sale shortly so we'll have to negotiate that with the new owners once they're moved in. So far rain hasn't seemed to damage it much but folks driving up either using 2WD or carrying a heavy load seem to chew it up some. It's more of a dirt road with gravel on it than a gravel drive so we're going to have a contractor come in later in the year and re-work it properly but it will still need maintenance.
A B or BX series Kubota is going to leave you frustrated at times. An L seems smart to me. MX is a big ass machine - some people make it work for smaller lots/properties, but c'mon guys.

Are you dead set on Kubota? Lots of other brands out there.
Not dead set on Kubota, but they are the only dealer in town, anything else is 45min+ away. I'd have to drive up to Longview, WA or down to Portland. Not impossible but since I don't have a preference it didn't seem like it mattered unless I go to the dealer and don't like them.
 
   / New Purchase
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I was in exactly the situation you are now 14 years ago. There’s very few places on my property where it wouldn’t be easy to roll a tractor. A sub compact tractor is going to be more stable than a compact on the side of a hill. There’s all kinds of places I can go with my lawn tractor where my compact tractor would roll over. There’s nowhere that I can’t go with my zero turn mower, which has a very low center of gravity and a steering wheel so it sticks to very steep slopes. If I had a $30k budget and your property, I’d rather have a $20k tractor and a $10k Cub Cadet ZTR (which is what I use to keep up with 52+ acres) I mow with the mower, the tractor is for bush hogging, fixing the driveway, etc. A larger, more expensive tractor wouldn’t do anything that I can’t already do. I’m maintaining a nice looking property, I’m not logging, digging giant holes, etc. The ZTR will mow the roughest pasture imaginable as long as I don’t let it go completely, and if I do then I can bush hog it.
That's a great explanation thanks! I hadn't thought about it quite that way.
 
 
Top