Sharpening chainsaws

/ Sharpening chainsaws #161  
I went to try one of these and had planned on buying one. That is until I found out that if you have 3 saws with different sized chains you have to buy 3 of them one for each chain. At $ 45.00 a pop I think I'll just stick to doing it the old-fashioned way.
I bought the extra one for convenience. Swapping the files out is quick. The biggest pain I have is that a my full chisel chains for the 600P require a 10 degree down angle which means making two changes when swapping sides. That is now moot as I switch to semi-chisel on my 600P this season.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #162  
I completely agree with everything said except the part about battery saws. They're light homeowner grade. I used to cut and split 3 - 4 cords each year when we had kids and the weather here was colder and stuck around longer.
I should not have made such a broad statement. It is true that gas has big advantages in professional or prolonged use. On the other hand, most people don't do that kind of work.

Most of what I do is getting rid of fallen or unwanted trash oaks. I would never use my fireplace, because this is 2026, and I'm not Dan'l Boone. I put all my wood on burn piles. I don't store up cords of wood for winter or save wood for lumber. A typical job for me is maybe 75 cuts. The saw I have goes right through anything, up to a certain size. If I have 4 batteries with me, I can sail through most jobs. I wouldn't use it for big trunks, like 15" and up.

If I were really going to be mature about it, before a job, I would ask myself if the Makita could handle it, and then, if the answer was "yes," go ahead and use it. It's much less trouble. But I enjoy using gas saws I have worked on and more or less perfected, so often I use them when it's not the best move.

When I want to use the Makita, I throw it on the tractor with a couple of batteries and take off. When I want to use gas, I take the saw out and fiddle with it to make sure it will run. Sometimes I have to yank the cord numerous times. It's nice to have something that only requires me to push a button.

As far as I know, there are no cordless saws made for professionals who cut wood all day, so it would not make sense to compare a Makita 16" 36V saw to a Husqvarna 592XP or a big Stihl. The web says Stihl now makes a pro cordless saw, but I don't know how it compares to similar gas saws.

On the other hand, if you compare a 16" Makita to a 16" gas saw, it has serious advantages. Never fails to start. Doesn't have to be started 20 times, or allowed to idle for long periods, during a job. Cuts fast. Doesn't have as many failure points to drive you crazy. No earplugs required. No messing around with gas cans, additives, canned mix, or special no-ethanol gas.

The one I have does not seem to be "light homeowner grade." Far as I can tell, it is considerably stouter than the Jonsered CS2240/Husqvarna 440 gas saw I also own, and that's a better-than-average homeowner saw. I don't know if it's as tough as my Echo CS-501P professional saw, but it's not like the $200 homeowner saws a lot of people use.

If you're cutting big wood or lots of wood, cordless probably isn't for you, but for a lot of us, it is flat-out fantastic.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #163  
The problem with bench grinders is that you soon lose the hook that's needed in the cutter teeth and then the saw cuts a little slower and every commercial sharpen shop I've been in use's a bench grinder.
:unsure: How exactly do you think this chain was sharpened at the factory? Do you imagine there's a line of little gnomes with round files straddling the chain, and furiously sharpening their hearts out as it comes off the line? :p
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #164  
I have an Electric Chainsaw sharpener from Harbor Freight ! Under $40.00 - bought some 10 years ago. Works great for me. I have a spare sharpening disk that I bought at the same time that is still new. I have no problem sharpening - IT JUST WORKS GREAT !! I have a 59 acre woodlot that I take care of some downed trees. I used to cut a lot of my wood - but now I have a pellet stove and a Mini Heat Pump! Going on 78 this year - still use that sharpener when I'm not careful and touch a rock with the tip, Ha, Ha !!
I have the Harbor Freight sharpener as well. I only use it after unfortunate contact with something other than wood, and while it’s not as precise as some others it gets the job done for sure. I had to mark my own angles mine was off 5 degrees or so but it really didn’t seem to matter.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #165  
Yes, I've heard of that trick from an arborist I know, but he recommend it because sometimes it will grab and yank the saw in Hard and then sometimes bad things can happen.
Yes. Bad things like testing out your PPE. I’d rather not. I’ve personally had chain malfunctions at the end of their life expectancy and eating a kickback isn’t fun. Depending on bar design the situation will be worse.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws
  • Thread Starter
#166  
mx842 your lucky. I can only find nails.
I also like filing often with not as many strokes as i think that it helps keep the cutting edge to a point.
I tried many of your itps and i am starting to enjoy filing chains
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #167  
I have the Harbor Freight sharpener as well. I only use it after unfortunate contact with something other than wood, and while it’s not as precise as some others it gets the job done for sure. I had to mark my own angles mine was off 5 degrees or so but it really didn’t seem to matter.
It can cut plenty well if your angle setting is off, but there are at least two penalties:

1. If off left/right by unequal amounts, sharpened chain may pull a little left/right, instead of cutting straight.

2. You may have to have to remove more metal on that first grinding, in order to redefine the tooth at the new angle, shortening your chain life a little more than necessary, if angles are all closer to correct.

There's no such thing as perfect, 0.000000000-degrees, all angles are off a bit. But the bigger the error, the more these two problems may appear.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #168  
I went to try one of these and had planned on buying one. That is until I found out that if you have 3 saws with different sized chains you have to buy 3 of them one for each chain. At $ 45.00 a pop I think I'll just stick to doing it the old-fashioned way.

If you value your time, and you do a lot of chainsaw work it is still totally worth it. I can sharpen a chain in less than 5 min.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #169  
I bought the extra one for convenience. Swapping the files out is quick. The biggest pain I have is that a my full chisel chains for the 600P require a 10 degree down angle which means making two changes when swapping sides. That is now moot as I switch to semi-chisel on my 600P this season.
I didn't know you could change the file size in them. From what I have seen is that they are sold by the size chain you have, 404/3/8/.325 etc. My dealer didn't say anything about being able to change the file size just you had to buy the one for your chain size.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #170  
I didn't know you could change the file size in them. From what I have seen is that they are sold by the size chain you have, 404/3/8/.325 etc. My dealer didn't say anything about being able to change the file size just you had to buy the one for your chain size.
Sorry, my bad. My response was related to the Granberg. I think you were referring to the Stihl in which case I don't know.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #171  
If file can't be changed, I wonder how they handle Pico/Picco chains? Most grinders come with 3 wheels, the middle of which is most commonly used for regular 3/8-inch type-RS/RS3 chains. But I also get a lot of use out of the narrow wheel for the low-proile chains run on my top handle saw and pole saw.

It's been so many years since I bought them, I don't even remember the sizes anymore, I just grab them by visual familiarity.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #172  
I have the 325 and 375 pferd/stihl, and no they do not appear to be interchangeable. The file slots fit the files very snug. Smaller will fit larger, with sloppy fit. Larger does not fit into smaller at all.
20260324_120106.jpg
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #173  
I should not have made such a broad statement. It is true that gas has big advantages in professional or prolonged use. On the other hand, most people don't do that kind of work.

Most of what I do is getting rid of fallen or unwanted trash oaks. I would never use my fireplace, because this is 2026, and I'm not Dan'l Boone. I put all my wood on burn piles. I don't store up cords of wood for winter or save wood for lumber. A typical job for me is maybe 75 cuts. The saw I have goes right through anything, up to a certain size. If I have 4 batteries with me, I can sail through most jobs. I wouldn't use it for big trunks, like 15" and up.

If I were really going to be mature about it, before a job, I would ask myself if the Makita could handle it, and then, if the answer was "yes," go ahead and use it. It's much less trouble. But I enjoy using gas saws I have worked on and more or less perfected, so often I use them when it's not the best move.

When I want to use the Makita, I throw it on the tractor with a couple of batteries and take off. When I want to use gas, I take the saw out and fiddle with it to make sure it will run. Sometimes I have to yank the cord numerous times. It's nice to have something that only requires me to push a button.

As far as I know, there are no cordless saws made for professionals who cut wood all day, so it would not make sense to compare a Makita 16" 36V saw to a Husqvarna 592XP or a big Stihl. The web says Stihl now makes a pro cordless saw, but I don't know how it compares to similar gas saws.

On the other hand, if you compare a 16" Makita to a 16" gas saw, it has serious advantages. Never fails to start. Doesn't have to be started 20 times, or allowed to idle for long periods, during a job. Cuts fast. Doesn't have as many failure points to drive you crazy. No earplugs required. No messing around with gas cans, additives, canned mix, or special no-ethanol gas.

The one I have does not seem to be "light homeowner grade." Far as I can tell, it is considerably stouter than the Jonsered CS2240/Husqvarna 440 gas saw I also own, and that's a better-than-average homeowner saw. I don't know if it's as tough as my Echo CS-501P professional saw, but it's not like the $200 homeowner saws a lot of people use.

If you're cutting big wood or lots of wood, cordless probably isn't for you, but for a lot of us, it is flat-out fantastic.
I read on one of the Wildland fire sites that CalFire is moving towards battery saws. The electric saws don't have the problem with fuel boil when you refill them when hot. Which is now becoming more common, and results in several burn cases per year. The electric saws also don't have the potential for fuel spills, because they don't have fuel. And, being California if you spill fuel you have to report the geo-location and quantity.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #174  
It can cut plenty well if your angle setting is off, but there are at least two penalties:

1. If off left/right by unequal amounts, sharpened chain may pull a little left/right, instead of cutting straight.

2. You may have to have to remove more metal on that first grinding, in order to redefine the tooth at the new angle, shortening your chain life a little more than necessary, if angles are all closer to correct.

There's no such thing as perfect, 0.000000000-degrees, all angles are off a bit. But the bigger the error, the more these two problems may appear.
It wasn’t enough to be a problem, the saw cut fine. I just noticed and wanted to mention it so someone else would be aware if they were thinking about one.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #175  
Sorry, my bad. My response was related to the Granberg. I think you were referring to the Stihl in which case I don't know.
No problem, I was getting ready to go back to my dealer and do a little fussing. ;)
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #176  
I didn't know you could change the file size in them. From what I have seen is that they are sold by the size chain you have, 404/3/8/.325 etc. My dealer didn't say anything about being able to change the file size just you had to buy the one for your chain size.
You definitely can not change the file size on them. All of the files and bars on the fixture are spaced in a particular way to fit the type of chain for which they are intended.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #177  
Lots of good reading in this thread.

I like the Husqvarna roller guide - fast and easy to see what your file is doing and how it is sitting through the stroke. I keep my chain sharp - sharpen it before it is dull - a couple quick light swipes. I only change a chain if it is smashed. I have a stump vice welded on my grapple. Works for me.

P1160803.JPG


gg
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #178  
You definitely can not change the file size on them. All of the files and bars on the fixture are spaced in a particular way to fit the type of chain for which they are intended.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that found this out before buying one. That was the main reason I posted to begin with. At least my dealer was honest about it some probably would have sold it and not said anything about it.
 
/ Sharpening chainsaws #180  
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