Swapping Robin out with Kohler today

Frank Sorbello · Apr 23, 2016

Getting ready to pull the 22hp Robin and install 25 actually 23.5hp Kohler in 422. So far I have the muffler off, battery out, gas tank and bracket out, throttle and choke cables disconnected, battery cables disconnected.

Terry had said to loosen the bolt engine bolts. Then I can slide the motor forward a couple inches that will help in removing the back pump. Should I loosen them where they bolt onto the engine stand? I have hydraulic pumps on the front and back of the engine. The pump on the back looks easy enough. There is a coupler on the front that I am not familiar with unhooking.

I also see I have a lot of wear on the two hydraulic hoses that feed the oil cooler. I better replace them before I put the new engine in.

murphy1244 · Apr 23, 2016

Good luck Frank on the swap!

Frank Sorbello · Apr 23, 2016

Thanks Murph! I am going to need it. Not too mechanically inclined.

murphy1244 · Apr 23, 2016

Frank Sorbello said:
Thanks Murph! I am going to need it. Not too mechanically inclined.

Take it slow and easy and take pictures as you go..

Frank Sorbello · Apr 23, 2016

I have 3 of the 4 bolts that mounts engine to the stand loose. I am having trouble getting to the left front one by the starter. Any suggestions?

Barryh · Apr 24, 2016

Frank Sorbello said:
Getting ready to pull the 22hp Robin and install 25 actually 23.5hp Kohler in 422. So far I have the muffler off, battery out, gas tank and bracket out, throttle and choke cables disconnected, battery cables disconnected.

Terry had said to loosen the bolt engine bolts. Then I can slide the motor forward a couple inches that will help in removing the back pump. Should I loosen them where they bolt onto the engine stand? I have hydraulic pumps on the front and back of the engine. The pump on the back looks easy enough. There is a coupler on the front that I am not familiar with unhooking.

I also see I have a lot of wear on the two hydraulic hoses that feed the oil cooler. I better replace them before I put the new engine in.

Just a thought on the Love Joy coupler , Not sure how far you have gotten yet but good advise on taking lots of pictures. You also might want to make some sort of scribe marks around the side and front of the engine mount or bracket..

Also on the front of the pump base where the coupler links up, to make sure when you put it all back together the couplers line up properly. If not it will vibrate and eat the rubber spider in the middle up in a short amount of time.. Just a thought..

Marks481 · Apr 24, 2016

Frank Sorbello said:
I have 3 of the 4 bolts that mounts engine to the stand loose. I am having trouble getting to the left front one by the starter. Any suggestions?

Just not enough room to get a ratchet or a combo wrench in there? Or is it stuck?

Frank Sorbello · Apr 27, 2016

I pulled the 22hp Robin out today. Engine stand is unbolted, however the right rear wheel motor hydraulic line runs through the middle of the stand. Looks as though I will have to disconnect line at wheel motor and pull it through to get the engine stand out. The two hydraulic lines from the oil cooler have a cracked insulation, so I am probably going to disconnect and have two new ones made up. I have to put in a new engine stand made for the kohler. This job is a lot harder than I anticipated.

.

ponytug · Apr 28, 2016

Hang in there. It always seems harder when you actually do it, but doing it is 10x the reward.

I worked for a guy who always suggested that we double our time estimate and multiply by 10 to get what it was really going to take. It was pretty accurate...

All the best,

Peter

MossRoad · Apr 28, 2016

Before you crack any hydraulic fittings...
- Clean everything really, really well. Dirt is your hydraulic systems enemy.
- Make sure you have a plan to plug and/or elevate any opened fittings and hoses higher than the level of the reservoir tank or plug it well. It can and will drain all of your hydraulic fluid onto the floor if you drop the open end of a hose, or open a fitting that's lower than the level in the tank. Several folks have found this out.

As you've guessed, now is the time to check and replace any questionable hoses. You don't want to find them after you've put it all back together.

Where are you getting the Kohler compatible plate?

Frank Sorbello · Apr 29, 2016

Terry has been great. I ordered the engine stand for the Kohler today from PT along with a new wire harness, couplers, hour meter and ignition switch.

Frank Sorbello · Apr 29, 2016

I was thinking about draining the hydraulic tank, and possibly using synthetic. Any thoughts on this?

ponytug · Apr 29, 2016

I did that. I can't say that I noticed any difference. I was glad to see how clean the tank was at the very bottom.

I put in Mobil synthetic 15W50, but there is no appreciable difference when hot, so I would stick with 15W40.

YMMV.

All the best,

Peter

MossRoad · Apr 29, 2016

I've been adding Mobil1 to the hydraulic tank each time I do my 50 hour filter change since 2001. So, I have about 10-12 quarts diluting the original factory oil. Can't say I notice any difference because it's been such a gradual dilution. But then again, I can't say I'm disappointed with the way the thing works, either. I'd be curious to look in the bottom of my tank. Maybe I'll dissect a filter this time after I change it.

woodlandfarms · Apr 29, 2016

I think the only real note MIGHT be the oil running cooler. Seems to be a theory for whatever reason going around that Synthetic keep a device a bit cooler.

I put in the cheapest 10/40 I can find, primarily because my tractor tends to use more oil than Diesel.

ponytug · May 2, 2016

If your thermostat is functioning, how can the oil run cooler?

Confused,

Peter

Frank Sorbello · May 3, 2016

I believe this is a solenoid. It has a red wire that goes to the starter. Was wondering where I can find a replacement. It is attached to the inside of the of the tub by the starter.

Thanks
Frank

Frank Sorbello · May 3, 2016

The one hose coming off the oil cooler is a piece of cake to swap out, however the second looks like it is going to be a real headache. In the front lower left hand corner of the tub there is a manifold of hoses that tie into the reservoir. This hose appears to be on the bottom row under these here in the picture. I am guessing I will have to take all these hoses off to get to the one I need to take off.

Marks481 · May 3, 2016

It would have been nice if PT had hard-piped most of the hydraulics in the engine compartment (except for the point of connections to the pumps and going through the tunnel). Would have save a bunch of room and made the beast easier to maintain.

Frank Sorbello · May 4, 2016

At a sticking point with one of the cooler hydraulic hoses. It is in the lower left corner of the tub at the reservoir. There are five other hoses. I removed the hose over top of it and one to the side, however I still cannot get a wrench on the fitting. The male fitting of the hose I removed is in the way. Are there special wrenches for this? Real tight spot and afraid if the I were to get a wrench on it, if it slips I will mess up the threads on male fitting directly above. I agree 1000% with you Tim, hard piping definitely would have been better in the tub.